Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2003 - Theft Light Has Come On And Will Not Crank Or Start
Jun 18, 2017
I have a 2003 Ford Escape Limited V6 replaced thermostat and fuel pump and 3 coils and 3 spark plugs recently. Now the theft light has come on and will not crank or start. The fuel pump is still not working unless I manually press the fuse under the hood which is also the only way the car will crank still will not start. That's because the previous owner got the key stuck in the ignition so he bypassed it with a dial you can turn. The dial will put the car into ACC and on mode but will not get the car to crank. Also btn1 and btn2 fuses under the hood are draining my battery.
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My "Theft" light on my 2005 Ford Escape is flashing and I cannot start the Escape.
1. I tried the key that I had been using successfully for the last 7 years. , car did not start, Theft light blinked. ,
2. Tried wife's dealer key, Car won't start, theft light blinks.
3. Tried various things, such as manual locking & unlocking, turning alarm beeping on/off, disconnecting battery, etc. Nothing works.
Called the dealer, they say they know nothing. Must bring car in, they say. Basically I am screwed and now must spend big bucks to take it the dealer because of Ford's software bug.
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i have a 99 f150 with a 4.6 that will not start. it has sat for a while now. when i go to turn the key to turn it on it cranks and cranks and cranks but wont start. the theft light blinks like crazy and the odometer reads dashes. There is also a relay which i do believe is the pcm relay that clicks like crazy. when the relay clicks and the key is first turned to the on position the fuel pump will turn on and off as the relay clicks.
We tried putting a scan tool to it to try to pull a code and the scan tool wont connect. I do believe its the pats system kicking, but i also think its related to this relay clicking like a mother, maybe a bad connection in the junction or something. But I am not really sure how to try to start and find the problem. i have also tried replacing the relay that clicks and the new relay does the same thing.
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I have an 05 escape xls 4cyl that has started acting up in the past 2 weeks. The vehicle has 52k on the clock and has no other issues but what im posting about.
Heres the problem: Vehicle starts fine every time you turn the key. It does not stall or idle rough when engaging the trans mission so I've concluded it has nothing to do with the torque converter. Once the car is running the vehicle will shut off randomly with the THEFT light coming on. I played with it for about 2 hours and have found that it will do this idling in Park, while in Reverse, and while in drive. The vehicle also will shut off while I am going down the road and every time it does the THEFT light is coming on as the problem starts. It does appear that it only happens when the accelerator is not depressed and will sometimes stay running if you hit the Gas Pedal as soon as it starts to happen.
I have tried using another key figuring maybe a transponder is bad...No dice does the exact same thing. I have also noted that i do hear single quiet (tock) when the vehicle shuts off coming from the drivers side lower engine compartment.
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On my new/used 2008 Escape XLT 2.3L 2WD. It flashes every two seconds, like the manual says. Lower left corner of instrument cluster.
But I don't recall the warning light flashing when I test drove it. But I did push the buttons on the keyfob and various places on the dash/instrument cluster to see what they did...
Is the anti-theft system an on/off affair? If so, how do I turn it off?
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I have an intermittent security system issue. I sometimes get a dotted line in odometer and rapidly flashing theft light.
Crank no start. After a time, the theft light flashes a code of 1 then 4. Research gives me the result that PCM did not power up.
Have pulled gauges. Fixed known cold solder joint issue. Checked all connectors and reinstalled. Truck starts fine about 7/10 tries.
I have replaced battery terminals. Removed cleaned and replaced all firewall grounds. Checked harness connection blocks and PCM connector. Made sure all under hood fuses and relays working.
Currently sitting in a parking lot waiting for it to decide to start again. Only one chipped key. Where to look next? 1999 F150 xlt 6 cylinder.
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I have a 2005 3.0 front wheel drive Escape that the kids normally drive and recently had a crank over/ no start condition in my driveway. I replaced the fuel pump about three months ago. Turned the key and couldn't hear the fuel pump so I proceeded to check the fuses and relays and everything seemed good. I also checked the inertia switch and it seemed ok as well.
I then checked for power at the harness right above the fuel tank and I had 12 volts on two of the four wires so I assume that I have power to my pump. I then took out the pump and had it replaced it under warranty. So I proceeded to install the new pump and I thought that I would hook the harness back up and just turn on the key for a second to be sure that the new pump is working and there was nothing to be heard. Looking for a wiring diagram/colors of the fuel pump?
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My wife has a 2010 Ford Escape. When we try to start it you have to push the key in REAL hard to get it to crank. It's been doing this for a while and seems to be getting worse. It took her 10 minutes before she could get it to crank earlier today. Our mechanic couldn't find anything wrong the first time we went in.
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I have a 2007 XLS, 2.3L Auto/AWD. About a month ago it quit running while driving, just shut off. When I tried to restart the dash made clicking noises, fuel pump grunt type noises, cluster stays in drive position even though floor shifter indicates I'm in park. Pulled a code P0606, replaced PCM. It started and ran for 20 minutes, made it about 1/4 mile up the road, shut off again. Now I can't pull a code, dash indicates I'm in drive while vehicle is in park, same noises etc.
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The factory installed passive anti theft alarm keeps going off without external cause. Went to dealership to have them do the scan and all alarms point to the right rear-door. They suggest replacing the latch. This same latch was replaced 13 months ago for same problem. They will not honor the now out of date 12 month replacement warranty. They said they have checked the wiring and all looks OK. Must be the latch. I only have 30,000 miles on the vehicle and this is a rarely used door, yet I have to replace the same latch again?? Can the door ajar module be replaced separately and would it be less expensive to do so?
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Car not started for 5 months. 50k actual miles. Battery dead and replaced. Engine cranks but will not start. One squirt of starter fluid into air intake and it started immediately. Stopped and started several times (without starter fluid). Drove around block. Stopped and restarted with no problems. Let set for 1 hr. Started but ran only a couple of seconds and died. Will not restart but sounds like it is trying. Did not try more starter fluid again. Checked computer codes and none found. Can hear fuel pump run a few seconds when key turned on. Gas tank almost full but no gas added since last time it ran. Sounds like it is not getting gas?
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After 5 days on raining my escape will not start... It tries but then sounds like the battery goes dead tried jumping it didn't work. Took the battery to be check and it's good...
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2003 Escape Limited V6 Auto 4x4 ... I am having issues with poor fuel milage and starting the SUV...
When i go to start the truck it winds over for abit then starts and revs really high?!?!? I did a complete tuneup, plugs, filter, fuel filter, oil and filter... I changed the fuel pump which has the fuel regulator built into it. I have no codes on the dash. Also if i am at a red light and i put it to the floor I MEAN TO THE FLOOR!!! the truck bogs then drives off NO POWER!!!
Im stumped! I dont know what to do and dont want to keep replacing expensive parts... fuel pump, etc...
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I have error 19 on airbag warning light. I plan to replace RCM and have it programmed to vehicle. Where is RCM located on 2003 Escape, V6?
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Well, I bought a used 2003 Escape for my daughter and without thoroughly researching the airbag light, now have a problem. The light flashes twice, pause, then once, so I think this is error code 21? I cannot find anything on what this code is and how to fix it. I disconnected battery for an hour and now I get 4 flashes, pause, 6 flashes, 46 error.
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I have an 03 escape 3.0 4wd that seems to be flooding out. When I start the truck the rpms go up to 4 then it drops down...then drops to nothing and will choke off. If you drive it sometimes it will cut off when driving but this just started happening and after turn the truck after you can smell gas... It not my daily driver I use it to drive on the beach...
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I have a 2005 Escape with about 95k miles that won't crank after sitting in the sun on a very warm day. It's intermittent and might be OK for weeks.
This isn't when the engine is hot - it's when the air temperature is in the 80's+ and the black car is parked in the sun. This is the 1st warm weather we've had in several weeks and right on que, it didn't start this afternoon.
The battery is good and there is not voltage to the solenoid when cranking. I've used 2 sets of keys and replaced the PAT sensor ring hoping it was something anti-theft related.
Today, I switched out each under-hood relay (moved them to other locations) and still nada. Luckily today it's DOA in my driveway but may start later.
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Trouble starting our 2008 escape after she has been sitting for atleast 4-5 hours (or more) We can get it going usually but we have to attempt several times before it 'catches'. After running and turning off, it starts no problem. Have replaced mas and didn't work. No 'check engine soon light' so just trying to narrow down the problem. Have replaced the fuel filter and all the spark plugs. Love my escape but not when it doesn't start!!
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My 2003 Escape 2.0L has the "door ajar" light on the dash permanently lit, including with the engine off and key removed, which means that I have to switch the courtesy light on and off by hand or else it stays on.
Obvious first guess is a fault with a door or tailgate switch, but they all look OK to a visual inspection. Are there any multimeter tests I can do? Any specific voltages, resistances to look for?
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I did the power door fix, wrapping the door actuator motor 'resistor' in foil, and all was good. This morning I started the truck to move it, all fine, then pulled the door panel off to readjust the window guide in the door as windows were binding. After adjustment I went to turn on the ignition to test the window and the Theft light is on, and the truck won't start! It's a1999 F150, 5.4L.
1. The power comes on when I turn the key to ON, then when I turn the key to start the truck I hear nothing, no clicking, and the power goes off.
2. After leaving the key in the On position for 45 seconds, the Theft light blinks rapidly, the odometer is all dashes, the RPM and Speedometer gauges swing to max, then back to 0.
3. When turning the key to start the truck, there's a 1 click sound (solenoid?), then all power goes off on the instrument panel, no cranking.
What might have gone wrong here? Could the wrapping of the 'resistor' in foil in the door actuator have caused an electrical short? [URL] .....
Below happened previously but not any more...
4. When I turn the power back on to ON and push the buttons for the windows, the power seems to cycle On / Off in 2 second intervals, as the window goes down a bit, then stops, then goes down a bit, stops etc. and the lights on the instrument panel dim / go on / dim in the same cycle.
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About a block and a half from the house, it died while driving. Had heard some noise coming from rear drivers side maybe 20 minutes prior, and assumed it was the fuel pump.
So, I have put a new fuel pump, filter, and relay. Will crank, but not turn over. Next step was carburetor fluid in throttle while starting, still wouldn't turn over.
2001 Escape 6 cyl...
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