After about 6 months I finally got the alternator replaced in the Tribute. I totally forgot about the CEL that was on for EGR Circuit. I've found a couple of pages ( OBD-II Trouble Code: P0403 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Malfunction ) that explain how to diagnose the issue but I was wondering if any other route for something that may be more common than another thing.
View 2 RepliesI'm pulling a P0403 EGR circuit fault on a 2004 v6 Escape.
Last night I changed out the EGR solenoid. Cleared the code and drove around for a while, got on the highway and cruised for a few miles and everything seemed fine. Turn the car off and back on and the code showed up again.
My next step will be to check the electrical connection to the solenoid. I don't do a lot of auto repair.
With my multimeter I will check for 12 volts. But from what I understand I can not check ground as the PCM sends ground to the solenoid to activate it. How should I check the electrical connections to the EGR solenoid?
P0403 code that came up on our 2004 Escape 3.0.
Weekend before last I dropped the oil pan, cleaned it and the pickup screen out, and replaced the gasket (switching to full synthetic has been a double edged sword with the leaks that are popping up...); put in new plugs new upper intake manifold gasket and cleaned the throttle body and manifold out. All vacuum hoses inline with the EGR solenoid have also been replaced since the light went on.
While driving the following day the check engine light (CEL) came on and when checked at pep boys read P0403 (no other codes for low EGR flow, etc.). Now, the EGR solenoid is the newest non-regular maintenance item under that hood because the same code came up a couple of years ago (a new solenoid from pep boys fixed that lickety split) so I wasn't overly concerned that it had popped up again, but a bit frustrated that the solenoid only lasted as long as it did. Also, since the light popped up, I have replaced a couple of vacuum lines with some generic 4mm ID (5/32", I think) rubber vacuum hose, but that just headed off what looked like some potential future problem leaks.
Now, here I am a couple of weeks later having tried 4.5 new solenoids (Amazon sent me one with the wrong wiring harness clip so I couldn't verify that it was connected when it didn't work), and thrown some other "just in case" parts at it (new EGR valve and flow sensor, but these may be returned, but may just end up keeping them on, we'll see how things work out). I'm getting a solid reading from the hot lead on the solenoid harness at idle and during static revving, but I can't seem to get anything on the ground pin.
I've cleaned the connections and the larger pin block going into the top of the firewall to no avail. Should this read as a fluttering ground signal all the time, is it only grounded exactly when it wants the solenoid to open the EGR? What can I do to confirm that it should read grounded so I can know one way or the other whether there is a break in the line? I can't find my multimeter (or just dreamed that I picked one up last year). I'm also curious as to whether or not there's a good way to bench test the solenoid. I don't really get a reaction when I hook it up to 12v directly like I do with a vacuum solenoid from my Saab where there's an audible "click."
Is the wire harness for the solenoid a known weak spot? I've found two potential donors at the local junk yard that I can cut the wires out of to play around with/solder a new one in if that's something that the consensus deems may solve my cause. I also had an ABS light come on not too long after the CEL, but when I reset the CEL the ABS light went away and never came back (it only came on when I hit a big expansion joint on a highway bridge, no braking issues since it's been reset and ABS seems to be fully functional, per gravel road test). I still can't seem to read any ground signal at the solenoid harness at idle or with throttle input. I'd like to fix it, but don't want to start digging into the wires blind.
I'm not too knowledgeable about wiring and electrical systems. I'm getting a P1451 code (EVAP Control System Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit Malfunction) on my 99 4.2. I've read that it could be a bad solenoid, bad wiring, or a blown fuse. So far I've;
- checked (and changed) the related fuse
- checked the wiring for damage at the connector
- checked voltage at the connector (12 volts)
- checked the resistance at the solenoid (around 60 ohms)
- actuated the solenoid with a 9V battery (can hear it opening and closing)
I haven't had a chance to check the wiring all the way back up the frame to yet, but I noticed that the ground at the trailer wiring harness has broken off the frame. Would this potentially cause a fault in the upstream wiring? I'm going to slap a new connector on and bolt it back down anyway, but as it's Labour (Labor) Day I'll have to wait for the stores to be open tomorrow.
I have a 2010 Ford Escape. The engine light came on about 10 days ago. I ordered a OBD which arrived the day that the engine light went out (two days ago...) Anyway, the OBD showed a P1490, which, according to google means Secondary Air Relief Solenoid Circuit Malfunction.
View 3 RepliesThe ac/heater works just fine. But the air only blows from front vents towards face; even if i press button to defrost or floor or frontnfloor.
View 7 RepliesThe facts: 2009 4x4 V6 Escape with Valve stem mounted TPMS
I am getting a tire pressure sensor malfunction fault. The warning light is on and the error message is displayed on the little screen in the gauge cluster.
What I have tried: First I should say I have replace to defective sensor twice now...
1) I put the escape in tpms train mode by hitting the hazard switch off/on about 6 times.
2) I used the train tool to train all the tires but there is one that is giving me trouble and will not train.
3) I tried deflating the problem tire and inflating it to the specified pressure given on the be pillar of the escape (30 psig)... after inflating it I tried to retain it with no luck.
4) I tried rotating the tires and as I mentioned earlier I have replaces the problem sensor twice. Still can't can't get the problem tire to train.
My thoughts:
1) I don't think this is a module error because I can train the other tires and since I rotated them I know their position is not a factor.
2) its possible that I have got two defective tpms sensors but I think that is unlikely.
3) I have read of another procedure to put the escape in tpms train mode that requires you to turn the ignition on/off, step on the break pedal, tap your head and rub your belly, etc... but I have not tried this method. Is there a difference from this train mode verse hitting the hazard switch on/off about 6 times?
4) Does the train tool only work on previously trained sensors? do I need to register the new TPMS sensor with the TPMS module? I have an OBDII tool that connects to scanXL software on my laptop which included the ford proprietary protocol. I looked for a way to program a tpms sensor (similar to how I did it with my toyota) but couldn't find the option.
I've got a '99 Passat wagon with the 1.8T. My check engine light came on the other day. i had a friend check it w/ his OBD 2 code reader. I got 2 codes: 1300 & 1136. "boost calibration fault" & "fan circuit control malfunction" , respectively. are either of these worthy of a trip to the shop, or can i handle this on my own?
View 3 RepliesI have some codes on my ranger 2000 here goes
P0141: o2 sensor heater circuit malfonction (bank 2 sensor 2 )
P0455: evaporative emission control system detected (large leak)
Now I will need to get that fixed cause I don't know where to look and what to look for ... For the leak I know there is a big crack on the plastic where the gas lid is could that be it ?
The first is a trans control system malfunction and the 2nd code(0740) is tcc circuit malfunction- but what exactly do these codes mean? and the o2 sensor needs to be replaced, it said bank 1 sensor 1- does that mean the one BEFORE the catalytic converter?
View 4 Replieswell Im working on mother in laws 2002 escape...replacing wheel bearing and ball joints...I went with replacing control arm with ball joint already pressed in , I did try to press out old ball joint first but it wasn't budging...so I went on to the control and the back bolt came out fine...except threads at top of bolt look worn bad...anyways moved on to front and it was tight and moving along good...sprayed down with pb blast moved it back in sprayed again and waited a bit....as I went to bring it back out it snapped....I got the broken bolt out...it broke right at where the threads start...anyways Im having problem with gettting the control arm out while the rest of that bolt is still in there.
View 14 RepliesI have a 1999 Ford Explorer with the V-6 SOHC that is stuttering and stalling when I try to accelerate. A very slight acceleration will get the vehicle moving, but anything coming close to normal gas pedal pressure causes immediate stuttering and/or stalling. Check Engine light came on when problem started yesterday.
Where is the EVAP System Canister Vent Solenoid? I bought a code reader after beating my head against the truck all afternoon and got code "P1451 EVAP System Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit Malfunction". My Haynes book says on the left side frame rail... can't find anything along there that looks like it (based on picture from Rock Auto for replacement part) and found some people online talking about it being in the engine compartment on the passenger side...
Just crawled all over the truck and I think I found the charcoal canister, but couldn't trace it back to the vent solenoid... There was something right next to the canister, but again, it looked nothing like the replacement part listed on Rock Auto...
Yesterday driving to work felt the engine missing, on the way home got a CEL pulled the code when I got home it was P0302, so I started with the easy and put a new coil pack, same issue, so I prayed and pulled the plug (it didn't break). Put a new plug and a second new coil pack (just to be sure, and yes I keep extras dang 5.4). cleared codes and started it this time got P0202 Ford - Injector Circuit Malfunction Cylinder 2, so I checked Ohms on #2 and it was 12.6, #1, 3, 5,6 all have 13 Ohms, didn't check #4, 7, or 8 because my big hands and the probes on my multi meter. Checked the wires on all of them and have 12 volts with key on, not running. I read another check to put blk in pin and red on pos batt terminal, and that it was supposed to go 12 to 0 off and on with engine running, All of mine went up to 14 volts and stayed no switching. Is there something I am missing to check before replacing the injector on #2?
View 6 RepliesI recently got an Escape and I am having a issue with the cruise control. That being, it doesn't work. The control module under the hood is all hooked up, the linkage the the throttle body and all. No broken cables.
The brake lights work as intended, and only when the brake is applied. On the inside, the dash-light cruise indicator works fine.
I ran the diagnostic by holding the off button and turning the key on. The cruise light flashes and I begin the sequence. I noticed I was pushing the brake out of habit while running the first few tests. They all returned 2 flashes upon completion of the diagnostic. All other buttons were registered.
Now the strange part, when I took my foot off the brake and did the same test, the final result is three flashes of the cruise light. I understand these flashes represent a fault, and I am having a hard time as I cannot find one.
What do these results mean? I'm thinking the brake being applied gives a fault surrounding the fact that cruise is disabled when the brake is applied.
The cruise control has not worked on my 2001 escape since i bought it a few weeks back. i checked the usual culprits and everything is good. i plugged my scanner in and got a control module code.
c1945- park switch indicates park with vehicle moving.
I did do some live data testing and it does infact show park when in gear. the display on the dash shows the proper position.
I am almost certain this is the issue with my cruise. Where this sensor is? Doing a parts lookup isn't showing much.
I just bought a 2008 Mercury Mariner about a month ago. A couple of times the Traction Control light came on from when I started it, until I turned it off (5-30 minutes.) Then it didn't come on for days. What the problem could be??
View 1 RepliesMy 98 blazer (130k)recently started showing code p0740 tcc circuit malfunction..
The truck runs fine (except for the water pump I just blew) this is a tranny solenoid code. but my tranny seems to be shifting ok..
Is the solenoid easy and cheap enough to replace myself? I am trying to make up my mind if its time to start thinking of trading this blazer in on something with less miles or to fix it up and keep on trucking..
I recently purchased the 2006 Mazda Tribute and the previous owner has confirmed the cruise was not working. What I have looked at:
Checked fuses
checked cable and connections
check connections at unit
What I have is the cruise will power on (light on dash comes on) but it does not appear to engage. I tried to use the diagnostics built into the car, where you hold the off button and turn the key on. I get a flash for off, and on, but do not get a flash when I push the resume button.
I have 94 SE camry with the 3.0L V6 1MZ-FE engine and has individual coil packs. I'm getting a P1300 Igniter Circuit Malfunction. I have checked it out per the procedures EG2.pdf. I'm down to step 8 and the voltages are little different between the 6 points. started checking out the ground at the ECM per IN36 instructions. it appears that from pin #27 & 28 are not grounded to the ECU case.
View 5 RepliesSC430 came up with the check engine light, showing a "Oxygen Heater Circuit Malfunction", code P0155 (bank 2, sensor 1). Searching, I found out this is the oxygen sensor in the passenger side exhaust manifold.
My car is high mileage (over 130K), it's hard to justify purchasing a $230 sensor and paying for installation. My only goal is to keep the check engine light from turning on and passing state inspection/emission (the check engine light will prevent passing inspection/emission in my state).
So a little while ago I had my parking brake, ABS, and traction control lights all come on at the same time. There was no change in performance, but they have been on ever since. I looked in to it online and a bunch of people said this was a common problem with damaged tone rings, so I checked them out, but they were fine (as far as I could tell anyway). So I scanned the vehicle using a buddy of mine's Snap On scanner, and it came up with the following code:
B1342 Faulty Control Module
We tried to check the fault code through Mitchell OnDemand but it said that this code was for a faulty Parking Assist Module. I don't have any kind of Parking Assist system on this vehicle however. I looked around a little more and this seems to be a pretty generic code for brake system faults with Fords. Also, if the control module for the ABS is the same one that handles traction control?