I have a 2000 excursion 6.8l v10 4x4. While driving on the highway and reaching 80mph, the suv starts making this grinding sound like it's trying to get into gear. The SUV starts to shake. when i drive at a lower speed it goes away. it doesn't make the grinding sound while driving on back roads. What could it be?
View 5 RepliesI can't isolate whether this is in the transfer case or the front axle.
While driving along at a moderate speed in 2WD the truck GRADUALLY began making a grinding sound, similar to riding on grooved pavement or over a steel bridge. It stops IMMEDIATELY when switched to 4WD.
I can ride for 10 miles before the growling begins. When switched back to 2WD the noise returns gradually usually after a minute or so.
The frequency of the sound is faster than the rotation of a driveshaft and it continues right down to a very low speed at just about the same intensity.
I've read a few posts on here that suggest spindle bearings, but the problem came on very abruptly and usually bearing problems, from my experience start small and get worse. Last week I changed brake pads and rotors.
I got new tires a few months ago and when the shop was putting them on they said the driver's side ball joints had a little wiggle in them. I've noticed it has gotten worse and I am going to change them prob next week. I am just going got do both sides while I have it torn apart. I have found some great info on how to do that. I also have noticed some ratcheting sounds from the drivers side hub when I start the truck and accelerate, and then it feels like there's a pop and the sounds goes away. Also if I flip on the 4x4 switch while there is the ratcheting sound it goes away. Is that just from a vacuum leak in the system? I don't know a whole lot about that, or what hoses are vacuum hoses etc.
I haven't really looked in the manual that much yet. My big question is this, I was driving down the freeway going about 70 when all of a sudden there was a gear grinding type sound, kinda like when you try to start a car that has already been started and the starter teeth make that grinding sound. Could it be that the axle has started to get some play from the ball joints getting worse and then it just reached the right RPM to cause a crazy vibration? Or could the 4x4 have a possible malfunction to where it tried to engage but the truck was going too fast? It hasn't happened again, but I have not gone 70 again either.
My truck has been running hot during highway driving. As long as I'm driving around town I don't have an issue. Truck has run around 199 degrees in Florida summer weather since I got it. Pulling this info from torque. At this temp the dial hits the gauge at about the 1/3 Mark. On the highway the dial will jump up to about 8/10th with a torque reading of 203 degrees. Pegging out with temp reaching as high as 210.
As soon as I pull over or even get off the interstate and continue to drive, temps come back down. Not sure what the issue is here. in the last year I have replaced the thermostat with a failsafe thermostat that if I recall was a 190. I also replaced the plastic heater control valve. I'm not really sure where to go here. My suspension is the water pump, or belt slip. I replaced the power steering pump this winter. I suppose maybe I didn't get the puppy lined up perfectly, but not sure if that would cause an issue like this.
When turning right, either sharply or just during a long gradual turn in the road, I hear a grinding or running sound consistent with RPM coming from the rear - I think the right rear. It driving flat, no sound. If turning left, no sound. To me, it seems if the right rear is unloaded a bit weight wise, the sound occurs.
I'm thinking wheel bearing. Hoping not differential, but it really does seem to come from right rear not center of rear. Only if turning right and moving weight to left side.
I have noticed this rubbing, not quite grinding sound/vibration when I take off and turn. For instance pulling out of a parking lot and turning either left or right. Truck will do it only after it's been driven a while. I originally thought it was just the limited slip ratcheting but recently just changed the rear axle fluid adding Amsoil this time. I did not add any friction modifier because I didn't think the Amsoil needed it. So after going on a 500 mile trip I find it is still doing it. The truck sits at the stock ride height and has stock size wheels and tires on it. What it could be ? It only happens in the turn, not while driving straight. It still sounds like the differential but just want to be sure.
View 7 RepliesMy 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 (139,XXX miles) V6 3.0, recently quit on me while driving on the highway. It will no longer start. I spoke to a mechanic and he informed me to fill the radiator (which was empty) and attempt to start the truck with the radiator cap off. He said that if radiator fluid gushed out then the engine is blown. Is this necessarily the only cause, that my engine is in fact blown.
View 19 RepliesI have recently found what sounds like a grinding/vibration issue that occurs between ~2100-~2300 RPM's in my truck. After some googling, I thought it may be the inspection plate being a bit bent/loose. I took the cover off and drove around and the noise still occurred.
Things I have noticed:
-Occurs between 1-2 and 2-3 (had trouble with the other gear changeovers as I just have slow backroads around me to test over my lunch break- can test further in the future)
-Occurs during acceleration and deceleration
-Starts at ~2100 and ends ~2300 RPM
Any thoughts for next steps to diagnose? Truck has ~160k on it and I don't really have many service records (purchased within the past 3k miles and problem just started occurring after this past weekend). Transmission fluid seems to be in decent condition.
Not sure if it would affect anything, but I just got back from my first trip with the Excursion where I actually needed to utilize the 4WD. There was much more aggressive terrain than what it is used to seeing on the pavement. Thought I should mention that as well.
V10, if that matters (I recall reading somewhere that '99 7.3s with the auto had documented torque converter issues that warranted a TSB)....
I have a 2004 F150 4x4 Fx4 supercrew with 5.4 engine and 46,000 miles. For the past three weeks now I have a periodic Grinding /scraping sound that seems to be coming from the front passenger's side of the truck. It can come on with light driving and braking in town or start while driving 70 mph down the interstate without even touching my brakes. The thing is I just about always have to come to a complete stop to make it go away. 10 Minutes later it comes again. It's loud enough for everyone around me to start staring at my truck. Sounds like metal scraping concrete and gets deeper as I slow down and when I fully press my brake pedal it goes "curchunk and the sound is gone for a while. I thought maybe my caliper was sticking or maybe the truck is trying to go into 4x4. One friend even suggested me to check the dust cover behind the brake for rocks.
View 12 RepliesI've been noticing some weird, very subtle engine sound changes while driving at highway speeds lately. Something almost like surging, but not. I don't know how to describe it. I might try to make an audio recording next time I take it out so I can explain it.
Anyway, I don't know why but ICP popped into my head. Maybe, for some reason, the engine was varying ICP causing the surging sounds.
So I hooked up AE and did a test. I've attached a screen shot.
With my idle speed actuated as high as it will go, and ICP actuated as high as it can go, I can only get a pressure of about 1450 PSI. I always thought ICP should go higher than that. I seem to recall reading somewhere around 3600 PSI.
So am I misinformed, am I reading the data wrong or do I have a problem? How high should Injector Control Pressure go? I missed it in the screen shot, but ICP is actuated to 100%.
My car makes a grinding/popping noise when driving that worsens when I go over bumps and that completely stops if I even touch the brakes. When I accelerate, the noise speeds up as well. I took it to a mechanic about three months ago and he said it was a loose bumper and that he secured it. After leaving, the noise got louder and happened more often. Sometimes the noise doesn't happen, while other times it does. My dad changed my front brake pads about a month ago so it can't be those. Is it possible that it is still my bumper making the noise? If so, I don't understand why it would stop when I brake.
View 1 Replies I own a 2012 GTI. For about the last week the cat needs to be driven for about 8 miles before reaching operating temperature (190). If I make a stop before the gauge has reached 190, the car will cool of very quickly. I realize it is very cold outside but this car and previous GTIs have not had this problem. The heater will not produce heat for the first 4 miles or so which is also not normal. The car has 17,000 miles and is parked in a heated garage every night, fwiw.
Maybe the water pump or something else in the HVAC system?
So I was driving for 6 hours yesterday and about 3 hours in my boost completely cut out on the highway. I didn't get any CEL or EPC light or anything. I took a look under the hood and everything looks okay. I also thought maybe the turbo blew but it isn't smoking or anything. What it could be?? Or some way I can diagnose the problem?? I have a 6 hour drive back home and would like some boost! It is a 2000 Passat 1.8T ....
View 5 RepliesHaving issues with 00 lincoln ls not reaching normal operating temp.
View 1 RepliesDriving down the highway today, my car just all of a sudden quit. I had it towed home, and checked the spark and fuel pump. It turns over fine, there's plenty of spark, and the fuel pump works great, but I don't think fuel is getting all the way to the engine. Could the fuel line be blocked or something? Maybe the injectors?
View 3 RepliesMy car died while driving on the highway. The mechanic said it was the distributor, but also that the fuel pump wasn't working. When he replaced the distributor, the car works, no fuel pump problem. Does the fuel pump shut off when the engine dies or is this going to be another problem down the road? 2000 Chrysler Cirrus Lxi...
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 Toyota Camry CE (2.2L/V4) w/ 130,000 miles on it. Just recently I have been experiencing a stalling issue after driving on the highway for 19 miles (or 20 minutes) at a speed greater than 65 mph. As soon as I exit and take my foot off the gas the car will stall as if I just turned the key in the off position. After I pull over, turn the key in the off position and wait a minute or two, the car start right up as if nothing happening. The idle seems to be ?normal?. The engine light does not come on when this happens.
If I feel the car may stall when still on the highway after slowing down, I can shift the car into neutral and hold the idle speed high enough to continue driving. However the car will eventually stall. But again and I restart it and be on my merry way without incident. I have try switching to high octane gas, but that did not work. If I disconnect the battery for a few hours the computer reboots itself and it will take a few more trips at high speeds for this issue to occur again. I have put in a fuel injector cleaner and cleaned the butterfly value (air intake). I own an Auto Xray code scanner; however it is not showing any error codes. What this issue may be?
So I have a 2000 Hyundai Accent, 1.5L with an automatic transmission. I'm hearing a grinding noise when I'm driving. It gets faster as the car goes faster, but the engine RPM has no effect only the speed of the car.
I got new tires, changed the CV axle shaft on both sides, and I also changed the front struts as I was told that one of the struts was bad the last time I took the car for an alignment. None of that has had any effect on the grinding noise.
Then I jacked the car up on both sides and let the wheels spin, and the grinding noise is present that way as well. Then I jacked up just one side at a time. When the driver's side wheel is spinning, the noise is audible, but not when just the passenger side is spinning.
I then disconnected the brake caliper from the driver's side and held it up with a tie wrap to keep it out of the way. The noise is still audible when the wheel is spinning, so it's not the pads or a clip or anything like that.
So now I'm down to a couple of ideas.
1) Wheel bearings
2) Something is hosed in the differential or transmission. I'm guessing that the differential is more likely, as the transmission should effect both sides the same, right?
I'm going to check the wheel bearings now, though to me it seems unlikely to be the problem.
I'm new to the passat side of vw vortex. i just bought a passat 1.8t. the car seems to have some kind of sensor problem. When i step on the gas to about 2000 rpm the car reaches the 2000 but dies out?? when they scanned the car on a scanner it said it needed a GPS sensor. the sensor doesn't come separate so I bought the entire throttle body which comes with a new sensor. and yet it still does the same thing. what could be the problem??
View 12 RepliesThis is on an 2012 SEL, 34K on it. Since the last couple of months, I have noticed that there some wub-wub-wub sound coming the wheels, well, at least from the road surface while drivng on highway speeds.
The sound is just like something is touching the tires, but can't be sure. I may have sensed some very minute shaking as well which may seem correlating with the wub-wub frequency. But as you can see, I am not quite sure how describe it. It is not a distinct sound, not something very obvious. But it is there. I asked my SO too, and both of use can notice the sound independently, so it is perfectly reproducible. The sound appears to be coming from the front, but it is hard to pin point. I also tried opening the window at 65 mph, but the wind and road noise just drowns out all other sounds.
I have thought of getting its wheels balanced as the first step. Went to Costco but apparently they balance only the wheel with tires sold by them on them. I am thinking of taking it to the dealership but want to be prepared by some basic info myself. Hence this question. Hopefully, they wont come and tell me that the wheel drive shaft or some such needs to be changed.
Subie was driving fine...drove it on highway and went to park and NO reverse. At first, I couldn't shift into park either, but then I was able to shift in park. I can move the gear to reverse, but nothing happens (engine just revs and car wants to roll forward as it is on slight incline. Hubby checked trans fluid and it was a bit low, added fluid, but still no reverse.
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