Ford Excursion :: 2000 - Up And Down Idle Speeds
May 27, 2014
OK, Got this 2000 Excursion with 6.8. Recently, it just won't hardly idle, the code says MAF, but it ain't cause I bought a new one.
The Idle is like this: with MAF plugged in It starts and the rpms shoot up to appx 1200 for about 3 or 4 seconds, then it goes down to a point where you think it is going to stall, BUT at the last second it goes back up to 1200 rpm. It will usually do this for 5 or 6 times, but eventually it does stall.
If MAF is NOT Plugged IN it will start and idle perfectly, but the moment you push the Gas it will barely run at all.
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I have a 2000 6.8L V10 Ex, and I'm currently working through the last thing on my "to fix" list. The truck has 37" tires (Nitto Mud Grapplers), and at freeway speeds the speedometer is off by 10mph. If it reads 60mph, I'm really going about 70mph.
I thought the solution was to order an SCT flash tuner, so I purchased one with tunes from 5startuning:
**1. SCT 7015 - X4 Flash Device with Choice of 5 Star Tuning Custom Tunes - 5 Star Tuning
I choose the correct Revs per mile for my tire (560), but the speedo is STILL 10mph off at 70mph.
No changes that I made to the tire size or axle ratio made any difference. It always read the same amount off. The SCT X4 flash tuner wasnt able to change the speedo on the 2000 Ex's.
[URL] ....
My question is this: If both of those tuners plug into the exact same port, and use the same parameters, why is it my X4 tuner can't change the speedo, yet this other tuner is able to? It doesn't make any sense to me. If the X4 truly cannot change the speedo of certain model years, there should really be a disclaimer about it. Feels like a bit of a rip off since the only reason I purchased it in the first place was to correct my speedo...
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My 2000 V10 is throwing some codes. The truck drives great, the only thing I notice is the rpm fluctuating down at idle once in a while. It doesn't stall, just not smooth. Here is the log from my torque app that I saved yesterday while driving: Where should I start ? Clean the MAF first ? oxygen sensors ?
Current Fault Log
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P0136: O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0172: System too Rich (Bank 1)
P0175: System too Rich (Bank 2)
Pending Fault Log
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P0153: O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
Historic Fault Log
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ECU reports no historic faults
Other discovered fault codes
(possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific)
------------------------------<wbr>----------------------
ECU reports no other fault codes logged
End of report.
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I have a 2000 excursion V10. It will die in gear forward or reverse the overdrive light flashes and cel shows code p0720. I have new plugs and COP on all 10 cylinders. I have replaced the differential speed sensor and the sensor on top of the transmission. I have a basic code reader it shows at the time it dies the vehicle speed is 70 mph while the speedometer shows 0. When I unhook the abs module it still has code p0720 but it does not die. I am replacing the abs module?
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I purchased a 2000 4X4 V10 with 63,000 miles. It sat with very little movement for 12 years or so. I have been driving it for a few months and it now has 73,000 on it.
To my question. I have an high idle after start up. After the engine starts the idle goes up to 2K but comes back down to normal(1K or so). It takes a second or to 2 for the idle to drop. This seems strange to me. Is this normal? I've done some searching and found plenty on high idles but none seem to fit this condition.
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This is for a friends gasser V-10. It has a new fuel pump and oil change. Wont idle or stay running?
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I have a 2000 X V10 and am having an intermittent high idle condition. I have searched the forums and found some useful info but nothing that addresses this issue. Here's what I've done. New IAC, found PCV valve hose leaking-replaced also new valve, found another vacuum leak-repaired, tested TPS and that was fine according to the specs I found. So here's my problem-upon starting engine occasionally "stumbles" then roars to life idles 8-1100rpm. Drives well till stopping at an intersection and idles 1100-1200 rpm.(lots of brake) Can pull into parking spot place in park and will idle up 1500-1800 rpm and then only drop to 1200 or so. I have checked everything I know. ALL these idle conditions are INTERMITTENT. (and yes I did check for codes "0" ) There is no loss of power.
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I'm trying to find out what I need to check or replace to get my 2000 Excursion to idle at normal rpm's in park and neutral.
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I recently bought a 00 Excursion v10 2wd everything looked right no major problems. I noticed it has a rough idle and i thought it could be the EGR i went under the hood and there's no EGR in sight. I plugged the OBD reader to see if it would give any codes since the there was no check engine light on and wanted wanted to make sure it worked, It showed a P0304 code its Cyl4 misfire i checked plugs/coils and i noticed there's a little insert inside Cyl4 plugs hole in the head that it has the plug screwed on. I decided to change all the plugs and the coils and i still have the rough idle and code i can hear a ticking noise around the engine in the passenger side.
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I drive a 2000 Dodge Dakota Sport w/ 4.7L V8 engine. I have been dealing with an overheating problem for about 6 months now and have nearly exhausted all hope of correcting the issue. It has been in the shop on 4 separate occasions and seen 2 different mechanics. The radiator has been replaced, the thermostat and thermostat housing have been replaced, the radiator fan works properly, hoses have been replaced and no subsequent leak has been found by either mechanic, they haven't mentioned the possibility of a blown Head Gasket (nor has the typical "milky residue," shown up in my oil cap). Each time I got it back from the shop the problem was fixed for about two weeks, then returned and slowly got worse.
It overheats in idle (with the fan running), on the highway at high speeds, and while driving slow. Sometimes it only gets about 3/4th to the red (usually when its cool at night) and sometimes it will hover just below the red; while I'm doing everything I can to keep it from hitting red (defrost on, revving engine). Some days it takes a little while to get hot and some days it happens very quickly. I'm tired of sinking money into the vehicle but as a recent grad I don't have the money for a new truck at this point. Suggestions included heater core clogged, water pump gone bad, fan clutch.
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I've got a 2000 Suburban 1500 4WD with the Auto 4WD. I'm running into a vibration at highway speeds along with a clicking sound at idle speed which speeds up and slows down with speed. I've discovered the u-joint on the front drive shaft where it connects with the transfer case is worn and has play in it. Could this cause the vibration?
Also, The front drive train spins any time the vehicle is motion, which is to say the front drive shaft spins as the truck goes down the road, correct?
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This weekend I am planning to do some major repairs to my X, she is a 2004, Limited, 4X4, 6.0 PSD with about 130K. I am planning to replace my wheel bearings, axel seals, and upper and lower ball joints. Some of these are just maintenance items that I will be replacing since I am already there and others are in hopes of eliminating the hum I am experiencing at highway speeds.
I am looking to purchase the Moog ball joints along with the wheel bearings (which I believe is my noise maker). I am going to replace the axel shaft seals because the right side was leaking when I purchased the X in August 2013. I might even change the front brake pads since they will be removed at the same time, all depends how worn they are.
What else should be replaced?
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So I think I'm having some issues with my front end. The passenger side seems to be roaring at certain speeds (25-40 and 80+). It's getting cold now and I still don't have much in the way of tools since the company that cleaned out our house after the fire ran off with most of them so I'm more than likely going to have to get it done at the dealership. Is it as easy of a job as I remember or am I forgetting something?
YouTube ....
I don't really know how to explain it really. It sounds like there is a motorcycle passing me or like I have a mud tire on that wheel is all. It's normal at the other speeds, but once I hit the "sweet spot" it just drones really bad and I can't even hear the motor. The only way I know to describe it is as a roar, it's really weird.
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So my Ex squeaks at low speeds. If I turn the wheel slightly it seems to make it worse. The other day I had the rear end on the ice. Accelerated and spun the tired. I could hear a squeak squeak squeak. I lifted the rear of the truck and put it in drive. No squeak. Every thing sounds fine. I put it in N and spun the drive shaft. Maybe some noise at the transfer case? Could that bearing leaving the transfer case cause it? That an easy fix? Or ?? I also note some chatter occasionally from the rear end. I did just change the fluid. But may need to do it again. The squeak is the more annoying problem at the moment.
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I have a 2001 excursion limo with 108,000 its a v-10 2 wheel drive with stock wheels and tires. I believe both my front hub bearings are going out, I am hearing some grinding at slower speeds and while turning, but seems to be ok at highway speeds...Anyway I think I am going to replace both front hub bearing assemblies.
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As the title says I picked up a 2001 7.3 power stroke excursion and I have some questions.
Issues : Loud hum out of front end at highways speeds I believe this to be the hub main bearing I already have the assemblies apart. Oil leak 4 inch spot after 4 days. door lock actuators. Passenger side inner axle seal leaking (very small leak but I'm sure it will only get worse).
Repairs to be made before road trip in 6 weeks to NC
1. Replace hub assemblies
2. Replace all outer axle seals
3. (Maybe) Inner Axle seals
4. U joints since axles are already out
4. Diff fluid front and rear
5. Trans/transfer case fluid and filter
6. Engine oil and filter
7. Flush coolant and replace thermostat and o ring
8. brake fluid
9. Have truck reviewed by competent diesel mechanic. Know of any in CT?
My main questions are about the carrier. How do I remove the carrier without the spreader tool? Since I'm not changing anything do I need to check backlash before and after removal? If putting it in the freezer before reinstallation to shrink it, to be successful? In everything listed above removal and reinstallation of the carrier makes me nervous being a sensitive drivetrain component.
Either way its definitely a cool truck and id like to get it off the jack stands and start driving it.
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2003 7.3 Excursion, 130k, stock suspension with newer bushings, etc.
Vibration when braking at higher speeds - not felt as pulses through brake pedal or shimmy through steering wheel - rather, a "body" vibration. Stops as soon as the TC unlocks. Being a diesel I can't tap the brake to allow it to unlock like on the gasser 4R100's - its locked until it shifts down into 3rd. Turning off OD puts it into 3rd but locks TC (no way to "single out" TC). Only felt when braking in OD (though I haven't tried running up to highway speeds with OD off/trans in 3rd) - braking is completely smooth at all other times/gears/speeds and at all braking force (light, mod, heavy).
Front and rear pads are good with even wear and sufficient material, lugs evenly torqued, tires good/balanced, no sign of a stuck caliper or rotor warping, MM manual hubs unlocked. No driveshaft carrier on the Ex's, just a regular two joint shaft with recent Neapco Gold u-joints, no slip yoke play. Trans filter replaced 4k miles ago, 6 +/- qts DexIII/Merc exchanged when I did the filter, fluid smelt and looked fine. Transfer case fluid changed about 5k miles ago. Factory LSD rear diff not serviced recently but fluid suctioned from fill hole looks acceptable.
I'm afraid that something is going on with torque converter/shudder but I don't get any shudder or slip under acceleration or at any other time and gear shifts are smooth. I know that the 4R100's can be sketchy, especially with 130k, but want to get suggestions before digging into it. I've also got a very slow hydroboost leak/weep but the power steering fluid is properly filled. Steering is smooth and proper, brake pedal movement is normal so I assume there is no air in the lines.
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I have a 2000 Ford Excursion with multiple transmission symptoms, so here goes.
The problem doesn't occur until after the vehicle has been driven approximately 100 miles as far as I can tell. At that point, I'll start to notice smoke coming from underneath the vehicle caused by the transmission leaking fluid onto the exhaust from the front of the transmission. At lower speeds, and while idling, the transmission will shake and shudder. It's not noisy or that extreme, but definitely noticeable.
I've also noticed on occasion there is a loss of power at higher speeds when the vehicle is in 4th or 5th gear. This mostly happens when trying to accelerate to pass on the highway. The transmission sounds like it downshifts, but the hard I push the gas pedal, the less power I have. If I push down far enough, the RPM's begin to drop. I've noticed that after I let the vehicle sit turned off for a couple of hours, it begins to work properly again, but it only lasts until the transmission is hot again.
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I have a 2010 F150 5.4 with 43k miles. When approaching traffic lights or making a turn and you are approaching idle speeds the truck will start to stall out then ultimately shut off, causing me to loose all functions. It has cause my wife to almost get into a couple of major crashes. Sometimes when trying to start it back up it acts like it is not getting any gas it just keeps turning over. I took it in and it could not be diagnosed because they could not duplicate the problem. This will happen for a couple of days and then be fine for a month or two then start right back at it.
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2000 Expedition. If speeds are under 40 mph and the air temp is above 85, my AC does not seem to work well. On the highway, it seems to work very well. Recently replaced with no change in performance:
Fan clutch
Water pump
Radiator
I've also degreased and hosed out the condenser. The AC system has been checked (by a friend with a set of gauges- but is not a professional) and a small amount of refrigerant was added. Still no improvement. Any obvious other things to check?
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Still showing the same codes (per repairman) and still having the intermittent rough idle at low speeds when the engine is warm. It has been so intermittent that I could almost live with it.
So repair guys first replaces the VCT's and runs fine until warmed up and the problem reoccurs with the same codes. He replaces both cam phasers and tensioners today and still same problem and same codes which point to the VCT and cam phasers.
Truck has 80k, city driven, oil changed every 3k or so. Burns ethanol and still runs great at speeds over 10 mph even when this problem appears.
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