Ford Excursion :: 2002 - Light Vibration Right At 70 Through 75 MPH
Oct 5, 2012
On that note I have a 02, 7.3 Limited with 195k on the clock. It has had this problem since I owned it. I have put about 20k on the Ex since I bought it. Right at 70 mph through 75 mph I get a light vibration.
I does not matter what I do, on or off the gas in neutral the vibration is there until I exceed or drop below that speed. The vibration is really annoying on long trips and I feel on edge the whole time waiting for something to break.
Its not strong enough to rattle change or the mirror but is enough that I can feel it and hear it. I had the wife drive and seems like most of it is coming from behind the drivers seat area.
I really don't want to start throwing parts at the problem. The guys at the shop said its a truck and thats what they do. Needless to say I found another place to have work done.
Here is what I have done so fare
New tires (Bridgestone Revos E)
Upper lower ball joints
Balanced front and rear drive shafts
Replaced the front Drive Shaft CV joint - what was not cheap
Lubed the slip joint on rear drive shaft
Ran the truck without the rear shaft and the vibration is almost undetectable but, still there.
I had it up on a lift and checked for play in all the wheels, found drivers side rear to have a little bit of movement. - Could that little bit of play be causing my issue? I am going to take the rear wheel bearing apart this weekend if time permits to investigate that. No leaks on rear axle.
I have not put new u-joints in the drive shaft as the shop said they were fine. Only the front CV joint has been replaced. Should I go ahead and just change the rear u joints out?
Also all fluids have been serviced and no metal shavings on the plug magnets front, rear, tranny, or Transfer case. I have no lift and suspension is all stock. I want to put a lift on but issue more then likely be compounded with a lift.
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I have a newish to me 02 ex with 7.3 psd. It had a gradual vibe at 70-75 mph that i brushed off when i test drove it. I figured it was tires, old vehicle, etc. Fast forward to a couple months later, it still happens in the same range of speed but now is bad enough to shake your coffee in the cup holder. Vibes happen regardless of throttle position, OD on or OD off, etc etc. It is entirely speed dependent, occurs on 2 lane roads when I go that fast, or on the interstate. Ive even kicked it into neutral on the interstate and the vibe is till there until it gets to 69, then it goes away.
I feel the vibe in the seat of my pants, barely in the steering wheel (I feel like what little is in the steering wheel is transmitted thru the frame, etc.) So here's what Ive had done thus far, and the vibe is still there, unchanged:
1. had wheels and tires balanced and rotated
2. had driveshaft balanced
3. had rear driveshaft u joints replaced
4. took rear driveshaft out and ran it up to 70mph on jack stands (no vibe)
5. pulled both rear axles one at a time to see if wheel bearings were OK and if vibe was there with axles out, and vibe was still there.
so i finally took it to a driveline shop and had them go through the rear end, thinking it had to be something there. They called me and said your carrier bearings are toast, so I said go ahead and rebuild the rear end with new timken bearings and new gears, etc. So they do that and I still have the same vibe at 70-75 mph. I'm at my wits end here, the shop totally expected the rear end rebuild to cure it.
The only thing I haven't done is remove the rear driveshaft and drive it in 4h to see if i can replicate the vibe there. I hate to spend anymore money on this just trial and errorring everything. That leaves the transfer case and transmission to be the only things causing the vibe as far as I know.
Also, the vibe occurs around 2k rpm, but only when at that speed. In lower speeds, at 2k rpm it is smooth as silk.
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So my dummy light came on the other day, I went ahead and pulled the alternator and had it tested at advanced. It tested bad so I replaced it not my battery light comes on and off randomly. I have a edge tuner on my truck and my voltage reading on there is different after each start up. Sometimes it runs 12.1-12.2 other times it reads in the 14's I have checked with a multimeter also and got the same readings +-.1 or 2.
My dummy light keeps coming back on randomly, I had to replace the alternator connector because I broke it by accident. I also traced the wires as far as I could to check for brakes in the wire and found none with out proper time to pull all the wire loom off. What is the cause I know I could probably use cables soon as my terminals look a bit rough but are clean. Seems to be some really weak flimsy metal. Which fuse to check as my 2002 ex 7.3 only has the inside fuse block and I can't find much online about it.
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My battery light keeps coming on and off, batteries were replaced by the dealer and checked out good at advanced auto parts.
2002 Limited 7.3L
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I just bought my 2002 Excursion about a month ago, and the cruise control doesn't work. When I'm driving, I press "ON", then "SET", the CC indicator light comes on, but when I take my foot off the gas, it doesn't maintain speed.
I've done the self test, and all the lights blink once. Just to be sure, I've replaced the CC switch on the master cylinder, and the Brake switch mounted above the brake pedal. Still no joy.
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2002 7.3 ...On my way home tonight, my Service engine soon light came on. How can I pull the code to see whats going on?
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I own a 2002 excursion and my dash light for door ajar stays on, I pulled all of the contacts off the rear doors and hatch and found that there are no electric hook up to what I thought would be the contacts i needed to be looking at. So what relays the signal to my dash that the doors are in fact closed?
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I bought my 2002 Excursion 6.8L about 2yrs ago, no less than a week of having it I started to have all sorts of problems. (insert nagging wife here) the biggest of problems was the darn thing started to run very rough and the ABS light cont to flash, then the truck just died (engine stopped, EXTREMELY scary in a intersection) I replaced the VSS in the rear diff.. acted a little better for a while then..no luck. I called around to every ford dealer in town. I need more break light fluid to there isn't enough grease on my wobbler pin?
So I got the initiative to simplify what I was seeing and hearing. I found that there was an OSS sensor on the tail of the transmission...drove my very intense self up to the dealership and bought myself a new OSS sensor. I got home and replaced it, then I drove my truck under the largest shade tree I could find and replaced all the coils and spark plugs. (Insert bloody knuckles and curse words here) Job Done. I thought to myself if this doesn't fix it then I don't know what to do. (I couldn't sell it)...again the point being...the truck has never ran better, gas mileage has doubled and the true power of the v10 has been restored. I found 4 different types of spark plugs in it and 3 different types of coils...?
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Bought a '02 V10 gas 4wd Ex a week ago pretty cheap, and looking to fix a multitude of little issues.
I have been reading about the door ajar warning light issue, and mine alike has door ajar light always on. However, my dome/interior lights do not react to the opening of any doors/rear door hatch.
It's not out of the question that the last owner might have disconnected what he needed to to avoid fixing the problem and still use the truck. Where to start given I can't troubleshoot down to one particular door ajar sensor?
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I have a 02 ex 118,000 on it, not a every day driver, mostly weekend and camper towing. The truck was running great, stopped at a light and the engine started hesitating, the od light was flashing, and then it died.. started right back up no od light, but was still hesitating/missing took it to a local shop, they hooked up a scanner and said that several coils were misfiring. My question, replace all coils? go with oem coils, or aftermakert?
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When @ a light or stop sign the car vibrates excessively to the point it makes my daughter sick. I do feel it vibrating but it doesn't bother me but something is definitely wrong. There are no engine lights on, I can hear the top end tapping and clattering, I did check the valve clearances which seem to be barely within specs. She says it vibrates worse when the tank is full. She also said when the tank is full the front end shakes driving down the road. I'm kinda wondering the front end shaking with a full tank might be the rear struts.
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2000 V10 X vibrates from 40-55MPH when OD is on. When OD is off, significantly less vibration - very minor between 40-50MPH. Bad OSS?
I had codes for misfires on #4 and #8. I replace the spark plugs and coil packs on all 10 cylinders and codes changed to P0354/P0358 - primary/secondary circuit. Wondering if that is contributing to it.
I did the full reset process on the PCM. Codes cleared throughout the entire process. But once I stopped and restarted truck, codes came back.
My thinking is to get a replacement PCM first. I haven't done a lot looking over the wires to #4,8 coil packs. cursory look they seem to be fine.
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My new to me 04 X has a fairly bad vibration that starts around 55 mph. At about 60-65 it sort of goes away, but not completely. The wheels are 20" F-250 wheels ( 2006 ) with spacers/adapters. These were on it when I bought it. I had the wheels re-balanced and checked the ball joints. This made no difference.
This is not what I would call the death wobble, just a bad vibration in the front end. The steering wheel does shake/vibrate a little, but so does most of the truck while it is doing it.
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At about 60mph I start to get a vibration through the vehicle. Its not in the steering wheel but the seats have a little vibration and you can see the child seats start to shake some. Stops above 80 and doesn't get real bad, just a little shimmy.
I rotated and balanced the tires with only 6k on them and its no luck. Where to start looking next: driveshafts, u joints, sway bar, etc.
2003 6.0 4wd....
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On our trip to Daytona this weekend I noticed a vibration/shudder between 45-55mph. Above and below that range it doesn't happen. Dont feel it in steering wheel or pedal. Does it in both 3rd and OD. Got under truck and driveshaft doesn't move at all. Just got those new tires put on a couple weeks ago. Don't remember this vibration before that.
Just checked tire pressure - front right 48 psi. All the rest have about 45 psi, would that do it? I have a shudder in brakes from stops above 45 mph I'm assuming warped rotors, could that do it?
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I have been chasing a vibration that occurs around 60-70 MPH. Had all the tires re-balanced and checked the rest of the suspension and narrowed it down to the rear driveshaft.
Took the X to the driveshaft shop and he checked all the joints and suggested that I grease the slip joint as it still was original as delivered. Here's what I did.
Removed the rear bolts and dropped the rear of the shaft. Cut off the factory boot clamps. Marked the shaft so it could go back in the EXACT way it came out and removed the rear of the shaft with the boot intact. While the rear of the shaft was out I checked the joints and found them to be perfect.
There was no real grease to speak of left, just the factory ford blue. Filled it and the splines with moly grease and re-installed the shaft and boot. Clamped the boot with nylon ties (per his suggestion). No vibration any longer. Thought I would post this up as a quick tip.
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So I'm used to the vibration coasting down from 110-115mph or so, I would mitigate it by applying light throttle. Recently it started coasting in the 75-80 range, then 70-80, and now it does it just plain cruising in that range as well. Nothing below 65, and nothing above 80 (coasting, cruising, or under load).
It's definitely a mechanical vibration, tires are fine, wheels are fine, wheel bearings are new... Thinking driveline u-joints? Don't have the money to throw parts at it unless they're the fix. I've consulted Christina's analysis chart and this is the only thing that makes sense so far.
No other symptoms anywhere else except those ranges. U-joints are, as far as I know, OEM originals. 276k miles seems like a hell of a life for them, especially with the abuse they've seen in the past 75,000.
I need to crawl under and give things a shake and wiggle, current condition is unknown. Left for a road trip to meet the wife's ex so he can have his time with his son, and the X was so bad at the aforementioned speeds that we turned around and swapped vehicles. It was worse this morning than it's ever been and I wasn't risking catastrophic failure with a zero emergency fund.
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I have had a minor vibration above 50 or so mph(by speedometer). Installed a new driveshaft and corrected the pinion angle to near perfect. I have OEM 4.30 gears and 33.4" tall tires. I had to retune motor/PCM and one of the options while installing the new tune was tire revs per mile.
I input 620 and pressed on. Now my slight vibration is gone. Even at a corrected 70 mph it's smooth. I'm a little baffled, as I do not understand how a tire diameter correction in the PCM could affect the drivetrain?
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After driving for about 15 minutes, once it is warmed up, at acceleration & low rpm's, there is a vibration, mild grinding noise. Once you get to mid-range and up on the rpm's, it goes away. When cruising down the highway at normal speeds and a consistent rpm...no noise. Idling at, and taking off from a stop light, I get the noise. The longer it is driven, the more noticeable the noise is. Possible torque converter?
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Just picked up an 01 4x4 v10 a few weeks ago. I have a severe vibration that occurs when I hit a bump at highway speeds. The vibration cannot be felt in the steering, and I must come to a complete stop to cure it. There is a rattle, consistent with rotation coming from the passenger front tire. It seems to get louder the longer the I drive it, Going away and starting over after the truck has sat for a few minutes. I have had the truck on a lift and there is no play in ball joints or tie rods. I have recently replaced the sway bar end links. When this started I had the front tires balanced to make sure that's not the issue.
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Coming back from PA yesterday after snowboarding noticed a vibration and a small amount of noise coming from the back of the EX once I got back into town. The vibration is def speed related and completely linear with how fast I am going, the noise for lack of a better description is like a low roar. Starts to be really noticeable coasting to a stop around 45 mph down to 0.
Only does it coasting, not under power, as soon as I pick up the throttle again it instantly goes away. Might open up the rear dif to see if there are any missing teeth or metal shavings if I can find time. Hoping its a Ujoint, cant afford to do a gear swap right now and I need my EX...
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