Ford - Excursion :: 2011 - Excessive Vapor Smell From Charcoal Canister


Jun 23, 2014

I have a 2001 Ford Excursion 6.8L V10. It runs like a champ, gets really good mileage for what it is, but there a strong fuel vapor smell coming from the charcoal vapor canister under the hood. You can smell it outside the truck and the smell gets pulled in through the vents - have to use Max AC recirc.

After checking and testing, I can confirm that the fuel vapor smell is coming from the charcoal canister and not anywhere else on the engine. The smell gets worse as the tank drains: Full Tank - Almost No Smell; Half Tank - Strong Smell; 1/4 Tank - Very Strong Smell.

Here is all that we have tried.-Replaced Fuel Cap (Genuine Ford)-Visually inspected the Evap Lines - Look Good-Visually inspected Fuel Line and Fuel Filter - Look Good-Checked the Fuel System for Leaks - None-Pressure Tested the Fuel System - No Leaks-Ran Multiple Smoke Tests on Evap System - No Leaks-Checked the Computer for Codes - No Codes-Replaced the Charcoal Vapor Canister (Genuine Ford)

We are totally stumped. I searched all the forums and can find issues with plugs, fuel injector o-rings, and leaks, but this has all be checked.

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Camry :: 2004 - Charcoal Canister Malfunction

I have a 2004 Camry that has had ongoing issues with the Charcoal Canister over the past 3 years. The first time we came across this issue the car threw codes that indicated the Charcoal Canister had to be replaced. Our mechanic said it had to be done and there were no after market parts for this canister. We paid the $800 for parts and labour and had it replaced. Then 13 months later the car began throwing codes again. I had the car looked at again I was told the Canister would need to be replaced... They felt it was likely caused from the intake filter housing cracking. Each time our car does this the codes can be cleared for a bit but the car takes forever to fill and slowly over time you can no longer fill the car as there is so much pressure. This time I bought a used part and replaced the canister. This has happened again..

So we have now replaced this filter 3 times in three years. Can I ask how this canister continues to get gummed up? We live on dusty roads in the country but none of my other Toyota's have had any issues with this. How these canisters are getting gummed up? Is there any way for me to change this Canister myself if I buy them used? I saw in a video on this forum where the user shows putting the car up on a hoist and lowering the exhaust to get to the canister. Do you have to have a hoist? I am wondering if I can achieve this with the car on a blocks? My original mechanic said the rear suspension needs to be taken apart to access the canister? Can I ask where the dust is being drawn from to clock this filter to begin with? I have also been told you can try blowing out the lines? How to attempt this?

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Prius (2004-09) :: CEL Came On, Charcoal Canister Pump Needed To Be Replaced

I just took the car to the dealer, for a recurring Check Engine light, and after changing the gas cover 2 months ago, now they tell me that it needs to replace the Charcoal Canister pump . I have a 2008 Prius, bought used 18 months ago, with approx. 70k miles

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Toyota - Corolla :: Check Engine Light Stays On - Charcoal Canister?

1998 Corolla LD ... Diagnostic tests show that my check engine light stays on due to a charcoal canister. Is this an expensive repair?

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I drive a 1999 Subaru Legacy Outback.I had a cracked evap canister, so I went to the junkyard and grabbed another. I installed it, but had problems filling the gas tank. It would fill a few seconds, then shut off. So, I got home, pulled the evap canister, and blew through each of the three ports. Two of them had air flow in and out to each other, the third was blocked. Checking the ops diagram, looks like that port runs to the intake manifold. Should it be blocked (has a check valve or something), or should it have airflow?

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An MIL light came on the dash the other week while driving. Dealer cleared the error code but next morning it returned. Car is now in the shop to have the flapper motor and canister can replaced. Get it back tomorrow, Got '08 Jetta 2.5 as a loaner. I will run out of warranty in another couple of weeks(48100 mi. on it now).

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Toyota - Corolla :: 1997 - Gas Leaking Out Of Vapor Canister

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Suburu - Forester :: 2002 - Vapor Canister Replacement

My Suburu Forester(2002) needs registering in DE and all lights must be off. I gave up trying to get the ignition light off 2 years ago, when it went off in time for registration and came back on as I drove home.

The AutoZone gave me a diagnosis of P1443, P0442, P0139, and P0483.

Suggested parts says : Vapor Canister.

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Nissan - Xterra :: 2001 - Clogged Vapor Canister Vent Valve / Replacement?

My 2001 6cyl 4x4 Xterra is a clogged gas tank vent solenoid, or as it is called now a "Vapor Canister Vent Valve". For the last 2 or 3 years, very infrequently, the vehicle turns completely off while decelerating (sometimes at very fast speeds so I have learned to be calm and put the car in N and turn the key and keep going with the flow so to speak). It also, either during a stop in idle or accelerating very slowly and steadily, makes popping sounds directly under the left back seat--which is where the gas tank is located. It sounds like the tank (or a metal can if you will) is being sucked in until it gives making the popping/banging sound against the car (underneath).

The other issue this problem seems to be linked to is the engine light coming on when the tank pops. I have had that diagnosed too, and it just reads "engine knock sensor". My previous wonderful mechanic, who moved about 30 states away, is no longer available but he did tell me it sounds like a blocked or clogged gas tank vent solenoid. He also said it's not a big problem per se, but at some point I should probably replace it. Sometimes there are 6 months that go by with no popping, stalling, or engine light coming on. So maybe 'bad gasoline' also plays into this issue?? I did an internet search recently and found a replacement part called a vapor canister vent valve. My question is how easy or hard is this thing to replace? Can it simply be 'blown out' with an air hose, or otherwise 'cleaned' instead of replacing it. The only thing scarier for me to fix than home electrical wires would be anything dealing with GAS.

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Dodge - Caravan - Gas-tanks - Gasoline :: 2001 - Code P0455 / Vapor Canister Damaged?

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I am done with this swap (I hope) changed out the 302 in my 81 van for a 351. The only smog spaghetti I am keeping is the fuel vapor canister but I am unsure what the #1 line in the photo is for I have the manual but doesn't state what it does my research suggests its a fuel vapor return line from the carb bowl back to the canister ...... I now have an edlebrock carb obviously w/o this port so my question is

#1 where would you reconnect this "whatever it is" line on carb or manifold
#2 I am going to install that #3 fitting in photo on the edlebrock manifold at the same location & extend #2 hose to it. I am thinking that's ok...

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I have an 06 limited edition... Yes, she will not be topping off any gas tank anymore.

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My Ex is throwing a P1451 Canister Vent Purge valve issue. Is the canister for the Ex hidden on the frame above the gas tank? I looked around the frame in the back of the truck but am having no luck finding it so I'm guessing ill have to drop the tank to get to it. I've read that wire chafing for this valve could be the problem.

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During recent trip to WITW 2011, I started smelling fuel vapor after stopping and getting out of the car. The smell was easily noticeable near right rear wheel which is obviously at the fuel filler door and neck.

Also, at one time the fuel level showed tank 3/4 full, but after filling it up I discovered that it was nearly empty with appx. 3 Gallons left. After filling the car back up to full, the fuel level went back up showing full, however the fuel vapor odor stayed the same on the way back home.

I have scanned the car and no codes.

Inspected under the car for fuel leaks and found none.

Removed access cover over fuel pump under rt rear seat and did not see any signs of leaks.

Removed rt quarter liner to visually inspect, but did not see anything unusual.

Which component could cause vapors to escape if faulty? R32 now has 31k on it.

I searched and read about possibly faulty fuel sending unit causing faulty fuel level reading, so I will be checking that next. However, no mention about fuel vapor problems.

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So I finally towed our new to us travel trailer home tonight and the spot I created at my house to park it in required a lot of backing to get it shoe-horned in its place. As I was almost finished I smelled a burning smell and my wife said she saw some smoke from under the hood. I had neglected to look at my newly installed trans temp gauge during all the maneuvering as I was watching my mirror and the trailer so closely.

The gauge had reached ~180F and it was only about 55F outside. I know this violated the ambient plus 100 rule, so I allowed it to idle and cool down to 140 or less. When I got the trailer unhooked and the Ex back in the garage I crawled under it and the smell was definitely burnt tranny fluid and it was coming from the front of the bell housing or the access hole for the torque converter, not 100% sure.

So my question is, have I toasted my tranny, or was it just a mild overheat situation and it will recover just fine? If I am towing and the trans temp gets above 180 again will it start leaking most likely? Is it just something like a pump seal that I could drop the tranny and replace relatively easily, or have I most likely done internal damage. Hoping I did not just cost myself a tranny build on a truck with only 73k miles :-(.

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See video : My AXLE Shaft - YouTube

Also I noticed oil mixed with grease the grease is prawny with a reddish sort of color or that is some thing else.

See photos ....

Any way after replacing the hub Bearing with a used one and butting every thing together I went on a test drive. Noticed that the vehicle drive line is not right the car seems to wonder and the noise still there so i didn't get far i came right back and park my x then a funny burned oil smell was present.

Is it some thing i did wrong or is it bad situation gone worst ?

Items Checked Or Replaced In The Last 4 Months ( trying to fix)

Tie Rods. Ok
ball joints. Ok
suspension front and rear. Ok
Front stabilizer bar. Ok
control arm bushings. Ok
stabilizer bar bushings Ok
steering linkage. Ok
brake pads. A new front set installed
Rotors . Both front changed with oem parts
body mounts + sub-frame mounts. Some replaced
shock absorbers . New 4 set installed
- Rear Monroe 911176 Reflex Light Truck Shock Absorber
- Front Monroe 911175 Reflex Light Truck Shock Absorber
tires. Replaced with a new set off four
Hub Bearing. Second hand (that's when I saw it)

Spare Parts waiting list (Ordered):-
O ring ord part # 4C3Z-1K106-AA
(knuckle seal) (F81Z-3254-CB).
and some other dust seals which i can't recall.

I am looking for how to fix axle play and get red of the noise. (this is a video from you tube for clearance)....

F250 wheel bearing, is this bad or not? - YouTube

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I don't have leaky valve covers and I don't have a lot of oil on the side of the engine.

What I did notice was there was a lot of oil in the intake tract. It's coming from the tube on the left side of the engine where it connects the driver's side valve cover to the intake tube before the throttle body.

What would cause this?

My PCV valve is clean and flows one way as it should. The plunger inside moves freely.

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