Ford Excursion :: 7.3 Skips When Driving At Random Completely
Mar 30, 2017
My 7.3 skips when driving, completely random, but it did skip many times in a row when driving over a bridge, moisture seem to be the culprit somehow. I have replaced CPS, UVCH, Glow Plug, Glow plug relay. I have not replaced the harness from outside the valve cover to the CPU that controls them. Its a 200.000km truck (125.000) miles, that has been well kept and seen little towing in its life. How did you fix your 7.3 from skipping? When it was not a CPS?
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I have an 03 v10 with a Powerdyne supercharger. The Ex came with an extra computer with a Superchip. The Superchip has a proper tune for the supercharger but when I install it with the extra "bad" computer the truck will completely shut down after driving ~100 miles. This is very dangerous because I lose power steering and brakes during the shutdown. The Ex starts back up after a few minutes and then shuts down more frequently until I reset the computer. I speculate that something is going wrong after the "bad" computer has learned the driving habits.
The other "good" computer works great and does not ever shut off the motor, but at full throttle the Ex will bog and I am losing HP produced by the SC. I don't think it has the optimal tune because my wideband AFR reads lean right before it bogs and I think it is bogging to protect the motor from a lean condition. I would like to install the chip into the "good" computer that never shuts the truck down to get the benefit of the proper tune, but I don't want to risk damaging it or experiencing the dreaded shutdown. A few questions :
- Why the truck shuts down while under power?
- Any reason to think that the chip will cause the "good" computer to shut down while driving?
- Could the chip be causing the shutdown, not the actual "bad" computer itself?
- Would the best option be to send the chip to 5star tunes and have them program a tuner with the superchip tune...and a few others?
- Any way to flash the "good" computer with the superchip tune?
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Have a 1995 Toyota Tacoma 4WD with around 230K miles. Recently, it has been 'skipping'. When we are driving or idling, it's like the engine sputters out and jerks along but it never stalls and always starts. Had it to dealer and another mechanic - plugged it in said it was catalytic converter and 02 sensor. We changed those, along with: plugs, wires, air filter, oil. That did not fix it. What this could be. Where else to start to look for this vehicle. It's been the greatest little truck.
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Down hill toward intersection with light that turned red. I braked fairly hard and then all of a sudden, brake pedal goes to floor and I go through the light. I pump brake once or twice and still nothing. Luckily I made it through without hitting anyone and eventually stopped with emergency brake. Turns out the line to the rear brakes blew. It was probably weak and maybe the pressure from braking hard blew it. This was sudden. There was no warning whatsoever. Reservoir was empty and practically no brakes in the front. There was enough front brakes to keep the truck from idling forward, but that is it. I thought that I should have had full front brakes with a modern day master cylinder. Looks like Ford blew it with this one. Very dangerous design.
Is there an upgrade available? I never want this to happen again.
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My 2001 Excursion's 4x4 low and high do not work at all. Any chance it could be a simple issue? I bought the vehicle last spring and didn't notice any issues until it started to snow.
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Had the ex up on a lift today as I plan on swapping out the shocks and noticed that the front bump stops are completely gone.
Could this be contributing to the harsh bumpy jarring ride I have?
I don't quite understand what they do as they just appear to be bolted to the frame and the next piece of metal they can hit seems far away from where they are positioned?
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It has a 5.4 v8, and won't start. It started fine when I bought it and quit a few days later. It turns on with the key, but when the key is turned to start it doesn't turn over. (Doesn't click, goes completely silent)
I can jump the positive post on the starter and the solenoid attached to the starter and it turns over and starts right up. This leads me to believe the starter itself is okay.
I replaced the fender mounted starter solenoid. Did not fix the problem. I am thinking about replacing the starter itself as they are pretty cheap and come with the solenoid attached but I don't want to just throw parts at it.
Because it worked and quit so suddenly I feel like it is a component issue and not a wiring issue. But I could be completely wrong, and that is why I am here.
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I tried oiling the hinge and installing a new wiper but it seems like the spring isn't strong enough.
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I've been researching the issue here on FTE, and this past weekend replaced the IAC Valve. I also cleaned the MAF.
Symptoms are random stalling. Before today, it was only at idle. Today it did while under power. It stalled three times before I had it towed home.
It starts up fine, but after stalling it did seem like it wasn't getting fuel when I cranked it a few times. But, then it was good. It still starts fine, and idles fine.
When a pump goes on one of these, do they act up first, or they simply stop working?
This issue has taken place over the past several months, but seems to have come to a head today.
Last resort is changing out the filter before I take it in.?
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What do these 4 random dead ended wires under the hood go to.
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I am a proud new owner of a 2000 X 6.8l 2wd with the 4.3 rear end .
I have had the truck for 2 weeks now . When I bought her , she ran a little rough but I expected as much after sitting for 6 months ... After driving her home I began to start a massive tune up , because she was acting like there was a miss ... The miss only started after she was at normal operating temp and at first only when at cruising speeds in overdrive on the freeway , it progressively got worse ... The miss became all the time once up to normal operating temp but will do it wether she is in any gear or even park .... Oh and the miss is NEVER at the same time it is always completely random ...
I have changed all 10 coils , all 10 plugs , the PVC valve , and I am changing the fuel filter this afternoon ... Other then that I think I can hear a vacuum leak , but I have tried spraying carburetor cleaner around the engine bay as instructed by a " ford expert " at the local auto parts store and I did not notice any change ... After I install the new fuel filter I am going to fill her full of 93 octane and add a bottle or 2 for Lucas octane boost as well as the Lucas injector cleaner ...
Other then these things I am at a complete loss ! This is my first v10 ford so I am a little at a loss ... Now if this was my wife's BMW 760 or my Lexus IS 300 I would not be having this problem.
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I am now getting a random 'whirring' or 'squealing' noise from the front. When it starts, I feel some vibration in the steering wheel and floorboard and for sure can hear it. Starts on it own at random, sometimes when I hit a bump in the road. Stops at random, sometimes when hitting a bump in the road. Lasts for different lengths of time. Always stops when coming to a stop at about ~15 mph. Seems to change pitch ever so slightly if turning when it is 'whirring' or 'squealing'.
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While driving along my Expedition will completely shut down, ignition, all accessories, everything, for a few seconds then come back alive. It happens generally up hills or around right turns.
It is like the main ground strap is loose and losing contact momentarily. I don't know where to look for this. Engine was replaced 1500 miles ago. Battery and all visible connections seem ok.
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I've been getting a random, periodic flicker of the light on the instrument cluster. It seems like it occurs when the rpm's are increasing to 2000. Does the light come on for over voltage as well as under voltage? When I check the voltage at the batteries at idle, I'm in the 14.5 v range. I cleaned/tightened all the wires to the battery and alternator and it is still occurring, will be doing the ground wires on sunday.
2003 4x4 7.3 no tunes
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A few weeks ago, my employees were driving home one of my work trucks, a 2001 F350 7.3 4x4 Crew w. 130K miles. They were on a straight road in a small town when the steering went completely out. The truck veered into a telephone pole. No one was injured. The truck has major damage to the front passenger's side.
I finally got the truck back to my shop today. It is quite evident what caused the problem. The gear/splined shaft that protrudes from the steering box and is connected to the pitman arm sheared completely off.
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I have a 99 F150 4x4 with 5.4 Triton, 99xxx miles. I was towing my boat when the regulator in my alternator went bad. I drove the truck with the voltage being sporadic for about 10 miles until I could get to a parts store. While driving on the bad alternator, I started noticing a misfire. I replaced the alternator, battery and DPFE. I still have the misfire....but here is the kicker. The misfire only happens when the truck reaches operating temperature. Which, in my limited knowledge, eliminates a fouled plug, COP, bad injector and a vacuum leak. I've got no check engine light so I can't pull a code. The only thing I can think of is to clean the EGR?
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I've got a 2006 F150 FX4 with a 5.4L 3V
A couple of months ago, I got a random "amber wrench light" on the dash. After I shut the vehicle off, it would go away. Over the last month, it's been coming back on more frequently....pretty near every time I drive the truck. I'm also noticing a bit of a dead spot in the pedal at times....though it's never failed me completely.
After a quick Google search, I was led to believe it could be a throttle body issue. Before replacing the throttle body, it was suggested to remove and clean the throttle body itself....which I did.
I'm still getting the amber wrench light, but now I'm also getting a random high idle after driving. If I throw it in park, it will idle up to 2,000RPM. I initially assumed I may have created a vacuum leak of some sort, but when I shut the engine off and restart it (or even blip the key off and on again quick before the engine dies, it comes back to life and idles fine? This tells me that it isn't a vacuum issue.
The strangest part, is that it's not tripping any codes what so ever?
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Okay, I've had about enough of this car. Recently, while driving, the car quit accelerating completely. I believe the Check Engine light came on but I'm not sure; I was rather frustrated at that particular time. Anyways, I've heard a few different theories as to what it can be (i.e. coil park, fuel pump, pump relay, etc.) I've really not got a lot of money to work with at all and I'm on the verge of just selling it as is. The car now will not turn over. I recently replaced the battery and the lights and stereo, etc. work.
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so I was driving down the street the other day then my car completely shut off no interior lights car won't turn over radio wont turn on had to push it up the hill, to get it out of the street and get it towed.
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My 08 prius completely shut off while driving on the california freeways today. No warnings no lights on the dash nothing. Just powered off. Will not start the ready light of any dash lights for that matter work.. tried to jump it.. nothing working. What the he'll can cause thus.. I'm about 500 miles from home with a car just parked. Could a 12v battery cause this no start issue?
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My daughter has a 1995 Grand Prix - 3.1. The car has an intermittent problem that can go 2-3 weeks in between occurrences.
It runs like a top, but will suddenly lose power while driving and die completely. After a while it'll be fine. (starts up again.)
The lights will flicker and give a bit of warning before it dies. I had both crankshaft sensors replaced a month ago and I though that would do the trick.
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