Trying to get the a/c working on the EX. Tried to pull a vacuum and heard a leak coming from near the firewall. After a closer look I could see the larger line was rubbing against the rear head stud. That line is a hard to remove and replace. So if you have a studded 6.0, take time to look at your lines to make sure they have proper clearance.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 Ex with the 7.3. There is a leak in the rear coolant line just in front of the rear right tire. Is there any way to bypass the rear heater under the hood?
View 1 RepliesRear steel brake line ruptured the other day (was pretty rusty). Despite being an idiot in regards to automotive repair (among many other things), I decided to give it a shot. I was able to get the damaged section off, went to Autozone with the broken piece, they matched it up, were nice enough to cut it and put on one larger fitting (because the two were different sizes) and flare it for me.
I was able to get the one side (at the T fitting) on OK. That was the "new" side, the one they flared at Autozone. Looks good. No leaks.
The stock side, at the passenger side caliper, leaks like crazy. Not out the threads, but out the hole through which the line passes. Know what I mean?
I'm having a hard time figuring out what's happening, because I'm not sure how this thing works. Does the line fit flush to something inside the connection at the caliper? Is it a bad flare?
It did not go in easy, but the new one was just as much trouble as the fitting that came out (stock?), so it must be right.
I am a new owner of a 2004 F-150 FX4. Bought the truck with a leaking power steering and I have isolated the root cause of the leak. It is coming from the "transfer line" attached to the center of the rack. The top portion has simply rotted through. I have searched the forum and google for about a week and only found one thread where someone actually asked about replacing the hard line on the rack. Unfortunately, no one chimed in with a part source and all my searches only come up with a HP line or Return line....no hard transfer line leading from the rack to the gear box.
View 7 RepliesI have a 93 Ranger xlt and after checking wheel cylinders and calipers first I have found a leak that is coming from the brake line or maybe the RABS module. The leak is up along the inside of the frame and I can't get in there because of the gas tank. Has to change line or RABS in that area and am I correct in thinking the gas tank has to come out to do anything in there.
Also, in the manual it says to plug the line as soon as you remove it(at wheel cylinders etc) so the fluid does not leak out of the RABS because it can't be bled without an expensive piece of equipment. I am pretty sure it probably emptied due to the leak location.
So I go into my garage last night and see a puddle under the rear of my car. Looks like H20 so I look under and the leak appears to be coming from the right muffler along the seam line. No dents so doesn't appear something hit it unless of course when my wife took it the other day she ran over a curb or something! I rush over to the dealer and head tech says looks like the muffler seam looks to be pulling apart? He says condensation may have eroded metal and caused seam to go.18k miles 15 months old I cannot imagine this happening. Any ways got a NX F-sport as a loaner - already miss the LS! I guess this may take some time as he said they have to get Lexus involved. I will just pack the miles on the NX!
View 7 RepliesNotice a leak at the bottom of the Line coming out of the reservoir and turning under at the bottom of the radiator... Not sure at this point whether this is the suction return or supply , probably return, from the looks of the spring clamps used.
It appears that some steel line is used to make a 2 ft or so loop under the radiator before it goes back to the rack.... Cooling??
This line app. 3/8 " in diamater is supported by some rubber isolators, and no doubt there is some rust which has formed in there where the line passes through the rubber, small pinhole maybe??
Ground strap from engine to firewall gets hot while starting and then stops getting hot, had batteries checked, replaced alternator, checked all battery connections, check all battery wire and connections, check ground from engine from block to fire wall , checked ground from battery to fender
2003 ford excursion,
Back again, with the 1994-ish Volvo 940 with many miles on it.
Symptoms reported by son: coolant leak near firewall (radiator hoses replaced a few weeks ago); maybe some pressure in cooling system; some oily stuff in the coolant in the radiator.
Shop's diagnosis: transmission cooler leaking. (Well at least it's not the head gasket!)
Recommend : Replace radiator, cap (sure), thermostat (all right, but we get rid of this car in six weeks), and ... flush the transmission (alarm!).
Usual advice is drain and refill tranny, rather than flush. However, seems to me that with high risk of coolant in trans fluid, flush is the right action.
What are my options here.. One tech said he can pull it down and weld on new flex pipes..
any advice with do.. CEL is on and B1 S1 is popping up. if you lift the hood you can hear the leak in front of the firewall.. and smell it.. ???
So, my original pump finally died and I replaced it....however upon doing so I realize there is a leak/crack in the lines as it never shuts off (explains why the factory one died).
After a bit of troubleshooting, I've discovered the leak HAS to be down in the passenger fender where the black and grey lines travel over the blower housing and go straight down up against the inner fender wall.
Where doe these come out or connect? I clearly cant get a hand down in there...does the inner fender well have to come out to access this? or is there a junction box/splitter somewhere accessible?
Iv got a 00' Ex with water coming from the overhead compartment. The wires for the fuel mileage reader were eaten by a dog some time ago and the only electrical that look like are up there will be the controls for the rear A/C and heat. Any culprits for this type of leak? Iv done some searches, read through a few threads and haven't found anything with the same issue as mine. I will pull down the overhead compartment this week if i have time to check it but hopefully the rain stops soon. Ill try and get some pics after work today.
Edit: The water is dripping from that compartment right between where the face of the fuel mileage reader and base of the compartment go together if that makes any sense. But its just enough water to feel up my cup holder to about 1/5 full so not much but im not sure how long its been raining. Also no water is dripping/running down windshield.
The red wire coming from my fire wall is not connected to anything and I need to find what it is supposed to connect too it come out of my firewall near my steering column ... This is and 95 f150 with a 302 engine ...
View 1 RepliesI have a 2012 Ford Supercrew, 6.5 FT bed, Ecoboost that I got in April. About two weeks after I got it, someone ran a two way stop right out in front of me and I hit them on my drivers side front. Damage pretty minimal considering their car was totaled. I had my truck back from the body shop about two weeks later. Everything was great.
About 3 weeks after I had gotten my truck back, I began to notice a strange noise that sounded almost like someone was opening a door really slow. (more of a rapid popping sound than a high pitched squeak) It only happened on acceleration and the sound was coming from the passenger side right up next to the firewall. I figured it was something that wasnt tightened correctly from the body work. I took it to Ford for warranty work and told them this story...they werent concerned about the wreck. They suspected suspension...I agreed this was probable.
They checked and tore down the whole front suspension on the passenger side. They ended up replacing that whole side with brand new parts, new shock, upper lower control arms, new coil, gaskets, etc. Problem was still not fixed.
I took it back to the body shop where it was worked on and had the foreman ride with me so he could listen to noise. He said that he believed it was the suspension as well. He said that most of the bushings that sit on top of the coil come from the factory sort of dry...he suggested breaking it down and putting teflon grease between the bushing and the top of the coil tower that mounts to the frame. He said he has had luck with that.
Long story short, the driver side began doing the same thing. I took it back to Ford and they agreed to try what the body shop foreman had told me. Still no luck!
My front suspension has been replaced and broken completely down three times, tightened back up to factory specs, and re-aligned...and still no fix!
It sounds like a truck with 250,000 miles when I first accelerate, and I can still here it a cruising speeds when I hit bumps (air has to be off to hear it well)...
My 2001 Santa Fe had a slow PS leak for over a year which I dealt with just by adding fluid several times a year. Then I let the car sit for a few months while I saved up for input/output sensors. I just replaced those and discovered that the PS leak is noticeably worse.
I searched the forums and found that the most common problem is a clogged reservoir screen, resulting in fluid backup that sprays the engine bay. I don't think that's the problem. The engine bay is dry and both reservoir hoses are dry. The spot where I've found the most wetness is closer to the firewall and much lower than the reservoir but I need identifying it.
99 f150 4.6 4x4 ... auto.. so, driving on the interstate I had to accelerate hard to avoid hitting a crazy driver... after that I smell antifreeze... get home can't find a leak.. wait a bit and I see antifreeze leaking passengers side coming down the firewall outside... if you are laying behind the passengers front tire with your feet to the back tire.. looking up you see the catalytic converter.. behind that on the firewall a stream of antifreeze... follow the stream up and there is a piece of plastic just about were the firewall starts to go straight up from the floorboard bend.. putting my hands in that it goes inside..and its wet inside..
I can't tell what that's for really but. Am I guessing evap coils access? any rate. I don't feel any dampness inside yet.. but I do smell it in the cab stronger now. I haven't ripped up the carpet either. Im suspecting my heater core sprung a leak?? there is a good amount of fluid coming out and down the firewall outside I would say I have about a 6-foot puddle now. course I parked on a hill too. no fluid that I can tell is at all leaking off the heater core hoses.. they felt dry. Im guessing there is a drain port in that black box inside and that is where this is coming out?? no noticeable leak from the motor side.. it's all dry.. its actually going down the firewall and hitting a metal plate that carries out to a cross member on the transmission and then leaking down.. motor area is dry.
So the wife's 08 Mountaineer 4.6 likes coolant. None in the crank case. I suspect head gasket, since I can smell it a bit in the exhaust, but I have also noticed steam coming from the drivers side firewall area, but can't see anything. If it is head gaskets, am I pulling the engine? If I have to pull the engine.
View 5 RepliesI've had a used 2007 V6 Camry for about six months now.
I recently started noticing a quiet set of rapid clicks/clacks sound coming from engine compartment/firewall area more or less on driver side. I'm not sure if it was there all along or if I just began noticing it.
It occurs after starting the car, putting it in drive and as soon as I let off the brakes and begin rolling. It might only happen going forward. I will have to notice if it does it in reverse.
It happens rapidly and stops and I don't hear it again until I repeat the steps above after the car has sat a while. I don't believe it will do it again, if say, after doing it once I stop, put it into park and then back into drive and go.
I don't believe it's the CV joints. It does it once and stops and is not related to movement of the steering wheel. It almost reminds me of a relay switching something.
I'll also add that I had a 1995 Prizm and 2000 Corolla that did the same thing. Both were manual transmissions. The click they made was much louder though their cabins were not sealed as well as the Camry. The clicks would happen only after the car had sat a while as soon as the car first started rolling and then would stop. Could it be the same thing in all three cars?
05 Toyota Tacoma without traction control but has ABS. A few weeks ago I noticed the brake pedal felt mushy. I had my wife step on the brakes with the engine running. I could hear a swoosh of air coming from the rear of the engine near the firewall but more towards the passenger side. I did the following tests:
With engine off pump brake pedal and it built preassure and stayed firm.
With engine RUNNING held foot on brake and turned engine off. The brake pedal moved slowly to the floor.
Check the check valve in the brake booster and its good.
So, I replaced the Brake booster, bleed the air out of the master cylinder and bleed the brakes. Now it feels great for about the first 20min of driving but then goes soft again. and I'm still getting the swoosh of air escaping from somewhere in the same place as before.
I'm wondering if I have a vacuum leak somewhere before it goes into the brake booster? the connection is good where the vacuum hose comes from the engine to the brake booster. OR should I replaced the master cylinder?
A months or so ago, after turning off my car I noticed a loud buzzing noise coming from the drivers-side lower firewall area. I cranked the car up and the buzzing stopped immediately. The problem began as intermittent but now within 2 minutes of turning my car the buzzing noise always starts, and runs my battery dead! I have taken my car to 2 local shops that have good reputations and they both began guessing and throwing parts at the problem to no avail my last resort is a dealership but it is 100 miles away and I'm not sure if they would do any better. I feel like this is something simple that an expert should have no problem diagnosing.
I have been searching around the internet and never seem to find someone with the exact same problem - until today!
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Got F-150 4.6 cooling system leak on the heater line (farthest back line) coming out of the block. Fitting looks to be steel. How does it attach/ do I need to remove the Intake to replace?
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