Ford Excursion :: Huge Pop From The Front End When Turn The Selector To 4wd
Jul 21, 2013
Scenario.... Anticipating needing 4wd, I turn the selector to 4wd, proceed forward, and pow, a huge pop from the front end. I proceed about 5 feet, and am stuck in mud without front wheel engagement. I manually lock hubs and have 4wd. Is this the leaking hub vacuum, I hear so much about? What was the popping sound? Any harm done? Everything locks, lights up, then disengages...... A little freaked out!
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Just picked up a 1999 F-150 XL, 4.2L V6, 5-Speed. Spent half the day rewiring the headlights back to factory as a previous owner did a bunch of wiring that made absolutely no sense. (Foglights or KC lights?). Anyway, works great with the exception that the headlights turn on when I turn the selector to just parking lights. I removed all but the factory wires under the hood. I haven't been behind the dash yet to check the headlight switch and I was hoping to avoid doing so. A fuse or relay that may be causing the issue? I don't have a service manual yet so I haven't been able to identify all the fuses under the hood.
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So broke down today and have no tools, in a city I don't live in. Huge coolant leak behind the block on the passenger side. Luckily we broke down right at a mechanics shop. They need to take off the manifold to get to the rusted out metal piping in back.
I am new to the V10. Looking for information on what could be leaking back there? I know I could do this myself but I need to know what parts I might be dealing with first. And its tight quarters back there.
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I have a 2001 Ford Excursion with the 5.4 and auto trans. I don't know for sure what specific tranny is in it but I do know what I want to do. I really like the pistol grip style shifters that a 2004 ish F-150 has and I wanted to make that conversion in my Excursion. Is it possible? Are the trannys the same to where I can switch out the gear selectors? And also how would I even do it?
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I am looking at a used 2003 X with a 140k miles. The truck is very clean and seems mechanically sound. This will be my third X! The only problem I found is the trans selector is difficult to move. Once driving the trans seems fine. No leaks anywhere. I believe this is cable actuated? Is this something minor or should I run away?
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Fix a Loose Column Shifter on Ford Vehicles - YouTube
The first pic shows the torx screws that come loose, allowing the handle to get sloppy.
The second pic shows the black plastic adjuster wheel that centers the gear shift selector needle on the proper designated gear displayed in the indicator window.
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My Excursion is having an issue with the 4x4 system. The. 4x4 selector switch on dash lights up properly for 4x4, but the auto hubs don't actually engage. The hubs will lock only if I manually lock the hubs. I can hear relay click, so I don't think its electrical. The hubs had new o rings installed when I did front ball joints a few thousand miles ago, and the 4x4 worked fine up until today.
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Put a new bulb in the right front turn signal, still doesn't work (parking light works though).
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I have a 2003 Excursion 7.3 2WD Limited and all of the sudden experienced a number of issues all at once.
1. Turn signals stopped flashing (hazards still flash)
2. Lost Rear back up sensors
3. Lost overhead trip computer
4. Lost Rear A/C - switch does nothing
5. Front A/C now only blows through the defroster vent
I've checked all the fuses and cant find any bad ones.
I replaced the multi-switch flasher and turn signals still dont work - only hazards.
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I have a 2001 f150 4x4 with the 4.6 Triton motor, the front axle is not pulling in when I switch the selector on the dash, I know the transfer case is switching so that part is ok. I know there are 2 solenoids on the fire wall, my question is which one is which ? every store I call says one has the nub at 9 o' clock and one at 6 o' clock which one of these does the front axle, don't want to order the wrong one ? I checked the vacuum and the blue line going to the axle always has vacuum and as I read the diagram the blue line is 2 wd and the red line is 4 wd so is the 2wd solenoid stuck and preventing the 4wd one from pulling in or is the 4wd one bad ?
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Driving at hwy speeds and head a pop noise in front end. Stopped and couldn't find anything, heard it a couple of more times, still nothing found, now I have a grinding noise left front wheel. What the issue may be. 2001 Ford EX 4X4.
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I get a huge jolt of shock when I get out of the car and touch the car frame. I live around Detroit where its cold and very dry, so I have to wear warm coat. How I can avoid collecting static while driving and best way to discharge it when I get out.
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My 302, only mod is a 4160 600cfm and i love it. But when I kinda baby the throttle and the secondaries flop down to let fuel it... There is a massive lag time. Sometime it will even backfire! fronts have 59's (could be slightly richer) and the back has a 134-39 metering plate and a black spring. it seems that it needs another shot from an accelerator pump to keep going. I raised the float with the same result, how to cure that lag time without mashing the throttle.
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I have a 94 f150 with the 351 and i was wondering how loud it would be with that huge stock muffler cut off and jsut the two cats still in place. I heard the cats will still quite it down a little bit cuz I don't want anything obnoxiously loud...
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When I bought my truck it had a ford remote start in it. This has only happened like 2-3 times.. when I remote start right after my truck starts there is this huge screech and obviously it worries me.
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I got to work I parker her on the 6th floor of the parking garage. While unloading I smelt oil (but didn't act on it due to me running late) so I walked away towards the elevators. Forgot something from the truck and once turned back towards the truck noticed a MASSIVE oil spill underneath. Easily 2-4 qts ALL Over. Also had a trail of oil ALL the way down 6 floors out to the street. Truck had little to no oil left in the motor.
Truck runs/ran fine, numbers for ICP and HPOP all normal. Truck will still start fine and run fine. No codes, no surging, no rough idle nothing odd other than a MASSIVE and almost instant oil leaking once started.
About a week before this happened I changed the ICP and pigtail. I understand I used a cheaper version of it, and it just might be the ICP, but I stuck my hand back there, and felt just a little oil (im guessing residual from the previous faulty one) After I changed the ICP I noticed I will had oil leaking from somewhere. Is it possible that I just finally blew out what was still leaking?
I have an early 04 so 03 motor. Seems like no real wet oil spots before the turbo area. I'm planning on tearing her down friday, but would like to know really what to focus on. I thought the pressure switch, but specifically looked there while it was running. Oil is traveling from where the ICP is located (roughly) left (Driver side mostly) but will get some on right (Passenger side) of bell housing.
I tried looking under turbo and didnt see much wet under there. I can't imagine the ICP i just installed could be blown out and dumping THAT much oil. Within 10 seconds it's dripping heavy, within a minute of running there is a football size puddle on the ground. Will drip for another few minutes after shutoff.
I thought of oil filter and pressure sender but like I said couldn't see any wet pools of oil. What else under the turbo area could leak THAT much oil so quickly?
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2003 Excursion, 6.0 diesel
replaced disengagement switch on master cylinder (was bad)
replaced cruise control switch on steering wheel (had broken button)
cruise will not turn on, and will not enter self-test mode
all fuses good. Illumination to steering wheel buttons is working. cruise buttons are registering with a scan tool, but still cruise will not turn on or enter self test mode
Cruise went down about the same time I started using the power adjustable pedals, not sure if that is relevant.
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Periodically my X doesn't want to start. Doesn't even turn over or crank. The weird thing is, sometimes it acts like the battery is too weak and the radio will flash on or maybe I hear a fast kink-kink-kink sound. Other times, it's just dead, like it doesn't even have a battery in it. Eventually it works again and cranks like a charm. Starts right up.
The ground from the battery to the fender looks good. I noticed the ground from the frame to the body was gone, so I replaced that. Didn't change a thing. I'm reading all the things it COULD be and I'm getting frustrated. I hate electrical problems.
2000 V10 Excursion XLT, 180,000 miles
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Is there a way to turn off the fog light's on a 2000 xlt
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I'm new and have recently bought my first X. its a 2001 XLT with the 5.4. I really couldn't pass it up with the guy asking under 7K with 104,000 miles and not a rust bucket.
I discovered last night that my blower (at least front) continues to blow when key is out and off. I have played with the key to think its a switch but am not sure. Here's the other part, If I turn the selector to off before shutting the truck off it stays off BUT if i turn it on it will not go back off and stays on....
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First some background. The vehicle is a 2003 Expedition with rear AC. The 5.4L engine has been replaced with a 4BT Cummins (DD since 2010), but the AC system is not altered-- other than the compressor being mounted to a different engine. The intercooler is in front of the condenser, which hurts efficiency of the AC system, but it seems to work fine in our climate.
My AC system quit cooling one day, and the problem was a hole in one of the low-side tubes from rubbing on the turbo-to-intercooler tube. I repaired this by aluminum brazing. The system held 120 psi on nitrogen for one hour. So I pumped it down overnight to 27 inches of Hg and made an appointment with the AC shop to get it recharged. I could not get an appointment for several weeks, so I continued to drive it with no AC, thinking it should be no problem since there is no pressure in the system.
I was on a road trip when all of a sudden, there was a huge stinky cloud of blue smoke billowing out from behind the truck. I pulled over and the AC clutch and pulley was smoking hot. I shut it down and cooled it off slowly with squirts from a water bottle.
So my clutch is shot but I'm not sure what caused it to fry. Is there a typical mechanical failure where the friction material can be chewed up by the pulley-hub? Or is it possible that somehow the controller commanded the clutch to engage without pressure in the system?
I think it would be prudent to replace the compressor, since there may be some bearing or housing damage from the clutch failure, so that is in the plan. I have read that when ever the system is open, the drier should be changed too. I want to do this right rather than do it again on another day.
One concern I have is that if when the clutch was failing and it managed to turn the compressor-- could there be pieces of compressor in the tube runs that I need to clean out? Other than a visual inspection of the open tube ends, is there another test or things to look for?
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