I am going to have to replace the rear dust shields and emergency brakes soon. I was wondering if we have this documented somewhere. The main question is do we need to remove the axle to replace the shield.
View 9 RepliesMy front dust shield on the driver's side is falling apart and scraping against my rotor. On the passenger side the dust shield is long gone.
My question is do I need the dust shields? Is there any issues without having them?
In a perfect world I'd like to replace them, but I have a feeling that this is going to be one of those dealer only items that's severely overpriced.
Seeing as I have the passenger side shield missing, and I never noticed anything before hand I'm thinking this is an item that might not be necessary.
Here's what I am running into. I have factory setup and it doesn't feel adequate. I get vibrations, lots of brake dust on front wheels, and just don't feel I have the stopping power if needed in emergency or towing. Especially with how heavy my 6.0 is already.
View 12 RepliesSo my saga continues with my rear brakes on my 99 Suburban - had a glazing problem that was eventually discovered, glaze knocked off old pads and then glaze came back again. So we replaced the rear drums and pads. A month and a half later I get an irritating squeaking noise.
Noise - when the tires are rotating they make a light squeaking noise, a rotating/pulsing squeak; when the brakes are applied they make a lower pitch squeak and if I apply just the right pressure on the brakes I can get the noise to go away (while also giving it gas to keep moving).
Last night I inspected the rear brakes and found an excessive amount of dust/grime on the pads. The drums we fairly clean. The pads had a heavy layer of rust/grime on them. When I ran my finger over them it left no mark on the pad because it was so heavy, but my finger had this sooty grime on it. The rust covered about a 1/3 to 1/2 of the pads (each pad had a different amount of coverage).
Everything is brand new and I'm not sure what is causing all the dust coverage.
Rear steel brake line ruptured the other day (was pretty rusty). Despite being an idiot in regards to automotive repair (among many other things), I decided to give it a shot. I was able to get the damaged section off, went to Autozone with the broken piece, they matched it up, were nice enough to cut it and put on one larger fitting (because the two were different sizes) and flare it for me.
I was able to get the one side (at the T fitting) on OK. That was the "new" side, the one they flared at Autozone. Looks good. No leaks.
The stock side, at the passenger side caliper, leaks like crazy. Not out the threads, but out the hole through which the line passes. Know what I mean?
I'm having a hard time figuring out what's happening, because I'm not sure how this thing works. Does the line fit flush to something inside the connection at the caliper? Is it a bad flare?
It did not go in easy, but the new one was just as much trouble as the fitting that came out (stock?), so it must be right.
So my saga continues with my rear brakes on my 99 Suburban - had a glazing problem that was eventually discovered, glaze knocked off old pads and then glaze came back again. So we replaced the rear drums and pads. A month and a half later I get an irritating squeaking noise.
Noise - when the tires are rotating they make a light squeaking noise, a rotating/pulsing squeak; when the brakes are applied they make a lower pitch squeak and if I apply just the right pressure on the brakes I can get the noise to go away (while also giving it gas to keep moving).
Last night I inspected the rear brakes and found an excessive amount of dust/grime on the pads. The drums we fairly clean. The pads had a heavy layer of rust/grime on them. When I ran my finger over them it left no mark on the pad because it was so heavy, but my finger had this sooty grime on it. The rust covered about a 1/3 to 1/2 of the pads (each pad had a different amount of coverage).
Everything is brand new and I'm not sure what is causing all the dust coverage.
Overall my B6 has very little brake dust. But I constantly found my rear left wheel has more brake dust than the other 3 wheels, though it's still less than the cleanest wheel on my friends saab 93. Currently the car has 4,000 miles on it. I'm wondering if the brake pad would correct itself over time? Anyway, I'm going to have it checked in 5,000 mile service, just like to know if this is a common problem.
Pic for clicks .....
How to replace a front brake line? I am having trouble getting mine off of the frame.
View 3 Replies97 4.0 ext. As the title says the right front pads wear more than the drivers side. Have replaced calipers pads and rotors during recent overhaul. Noticed increased brake dust on wheel on rf front. Could the metering valve under master cyl be the culprit. Abs and brake lights work as normal.
View 4 RepliesOk so we just replaced our front and rear brake pads and had the rotors turned. Our rear brakes are fine but both our front brakes now make a clunking/popping noise when we brake.
View 4 RepliesBefore I get started... My truck is a 2006 F-250 Super Duty XLT 6-speed 4x4 with a Limited Slip.
I just got finished with a big job on my truck. New pads all the way around, turned rotors, new emergency brake shoes, hardware, and backing plate as well as replaced the rear wheel bearings both inner and outer as well as the axle o-ring and inner seal. Also, took off the rear pumpkin cover painted it and put fresh fluid in, went with Mobil 1 75W140 LS.
Took it for a drive and the brakes work great. Followed the directions for breaking in the emergency brake which worked fine.
Now the problem is I'm getting rattling from possibly all of the wheels. Definitely from the front driver and at least one of the rear wheels. It was so dark I didn't get a chance to look at it I just pulled it back in driveway.
I'll start looking at things tomorrow but, any common mistakes or things I should check first?
Soon my rear shoes will need replacing in my '02 . I've given up searching for info on how to replace them. Seems all the links I find are for vehicles that have rear disc brakes and mine are drums. Is this a do-able thing or should I just hand it over to a shop? I've done my share of brake jobs on other vehicles but not this would be my first Ford.
View 11 RepliesMy insurance is pay to replace my window shield on my 04 Phaeton V8. I am going to use VW glass. Will I have a problem with the installation because it's not the same as the factory? I am nervous.
My rear tail lights need to be replaced. I am thinking of using the European tail lights to get the Amber rear blinkers and to get the foglight. On OEMPL.us website, it indicated that I will lose the cats-eye side reflector. What is that and where?
So on our trip up here I experienced a strange problem. Normally when I apply my brakes my trailer brakes kick in via the controller. This time when I apply the brakes I'm only getting my truck brakes. I can still use the brake controller manually to slow down but it's worrying. What is going on.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2008 f-250 2 days ago all light stopped work except the head lights found a blown fuse replaced with a new fuse and now all the lights work except the right rear brake and signal but the running light works so i know its getting power looked at the wireing and it all looked good to me oh ya pulled my trailer in and same thing everything worked but the right brake and signal ....
View 4 RepliesPicture if you will...Removed tire, caliper and rotor. Removed hub, and knuckle containing the stub shaft/spindle with it's yoke for the U joint. You are now looking at the end of the axle tube, with the axle shaft in it, one end connected to the differential carrier, the other end has the yoke for the U joint on it. Just inboard of the yoke, is a seal. Apparently it's called a "dust seal" is there a bearing behind this, or is the first bearing all the way in at the differential? When I was doing my brakes, I noticed the passenger side u-joint is shot, and the axle wiggles around in the dust seal. Figured I'd replace the seal while I was doing the U joint. Also, how do I get the axle shaft out? Just pull, or do I have to remove a C clip from the inboard end? What is the right National part number for the seal? I have a 6/2000 Excursion.
View 2 Replies2002 Excursion Limited V10, 96k miles...
History - 3 of 4 calipers have been replaced, to include the caliper on the suspect wheel, along with new brake lines. On occasion, while driving, i can smell the brakes. It emanates from the right rear wheel. I'm reluctant to think it's the caliper. At this point I'm thinking the him needs replaced. Any reason for this too is, on occasion the ABS light will flicker on.
I'm uncertain as to the cause of this because of it's intermittent nature - both the brake smell and the ABS light. When the ABS light comes on, it only flickers on, but when it goes out, the speedometer will drop to zero and come right back up. The truck has an electrical ghost, I know. For that matter, the door ajar light is always on, and the codes say it's all four door sensors - it's not the sensors, and it's not the GEM.
More importantly, though, I need to figure out the issue in the right rear wheel.
I have a 2010 F-150 Lariat 4X4 and the front wheels get brake dust and rust staining on them. What is the best wheel cleaner to use to get rid of this? I thought about muratic acid but am afraid of damaging the finish on the wheels.
View 7 RepliesThe brake dust on my front rims seems next to impossible to remove. Truck is a 10 F150 4x4 Lariat. What are people using to remove this? I expect to get in and scrub, but don't want to damage the rims as well.
View 14 Replies2000 Excursion V10 4x4. I'm getting a popping noise coming from the rear end when I apply the brakes and come to a complete stop and when I release the brakes to take off. It only happens the moment it comes to a complete stop and the moment it takes off. Not when I'm putting it in forward or reverse or accelerating or decelerating. U joints are fine. I was laying under the truck poking around the other day and when I roll it back and forth in park the few inches it'll go, when it comes to the end of it's travel the axle wraps a little and it seems like the transfer case output shaft flange is moving in and out of the transfer case and causing the noise. I'm assuming there is a snap ring holding the output bearing in place. I didn't have time to drop the driveshaft but am planning on it this weekend to see if it still does it when I roll it and to inspect the transfer case. I need to check to make sure the driveshaft splines are not seized up but they seem to have a little free play to them.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2016 F350 4x4 that has brake dust on the front wheels after only 3000 miles. I have tried to find ceramic pads to replace the semi-metalic pads that are causing the issue. There is no listing for replacement pads that I can find. My question is will 2015 pads fit the 2016? What is the actual part numbers to see if they are the same. This is just one of the problems with having an early build vehicle.
View 14 Replies