Ok, I have capped off the vacuum lines to the front hubs and replaced the vacuum solenoid on the passenger inner fender. Still stuck on defrost. I know there are several options from this point what would be the next step after what I have just recently done. Going away on a ski trip and would like to have it working properly before I go.
View 14 RepliesI know all about vacuum leaks and such causing this problem, and I tend to think that is my problem. But isn't the temp change dial also vacuum controlled (in my case of an 06 f250 6.0) by that valve near the oil fill tube on the passenger side? I ask because, while I am stuck on defrost i can change the temp of the air that comes out still, telling me there is enough vacuum in the system to at least control that.
I also know everyone talks about checking the ESOF system for cracked lines/leaks, but this shouldn't come in to play unless I have 4WD selected or if the EFOF solenoid is bad, right? I just got done tearing the top end of this engine apart, twice, for oil temp problems and am about done working on this POS!!!
Ok, I know I have a vaccum leak. I have manual hubs now and those lines are capped. The AC is blowing through the deforst and the pump is running non stop. I have replaced the vac pump a couple of years ago and it worked fine then. any other places to look?
View 1 RepliesThis has been on going for the past year. The blend works fine. Fan speed works correctly. The selection for ac, max ac, etc., will only allow air through defrost vents. Vacuum leak?
1998 4.6 auto super cab
I have a 2004 Ford Escape 3.0 V6 FWD, and the air conditioning has been blowing only to defrost for a few weeks now. After many searches online, most sources seem to agree it is a vacuum leak, as the selector switch is vacuum driven if you want anything except defrost. I popped the hood and within one minute I found one open vacuum line that looks like it has been worn in two.
The line in question goes from the vacuum canister towards the passenger side of the firewall, then goes to a T connector, then a line (the one that is broken) continues towards the heater core lines to where the break in the line is. I found a picture online of what it should look like, but I am having trouble accessing the line that goes through the firewall and behind the glove compartment. I am pretty sure this vacuum line continues through the firewall between the two heater lines, but after that I am stumped.
I popped the glove box down out of the way and I see two thin vacuum lines and a small metal "can" nearby. The black line goes from a fitting and into the A/C bundle, and the white line goes from the top of the metal canister and down into the same bundle. My main question is which line controls the AC selector, and how do I pass a replacement line through that part of the firewall to make a good connection, as it seems the break is at the firewall itself with no extra sticking out for me to connect to.
So, my original pump finally died and I replaced it....however upon doing so I realize there is a leak/crack in the lines as it never shuts off (explains why the factory one died).
After a bit of troubleshooting, I've discovered the leak HAS to be down in the passenger fender where the black and grey lines travel over the blower housing and go straight down up against the inner fender wall.
Where doe these come out or connect? I clearly cant get a hand down in there...does the inner fender well have to come out to access this? or is there a junction box/splitter somewhere accessible?
I have been having some issues I think are vacuum related but I'm not sure how to correctly diagnose or pinpoint exactly where the problem is. 2 issues that seem vacuum related:
The first is a sound and vibration I get while driving forward. While the wheels are moving, it sounds just like a baseball card in bike spokes, it usually happens after I backed out of a parking spot and put it back into drive. I will get that sound and vibration until I slow down, and just as I begin to stop, I feel and hear a big bump and the sound goes away.
The second is the old climate control settings. The settings switch without moving. Sometimes while I have the AC running through the dash vents it will switch to the defrost setting and then back to AC after a couple minutes. Sometimes it won't stay in the defrost setting and switches to the vents. How to diagnose?
My 2005 Freestar (not the Freestyle) a/c is working properly except that it is only blowing through the defrost. I've read other posts about it being a leaking vacuum system on other ford vehicles that cause this problem.
1) I'd like to confirm that this Freestar a/c works on a vacuum system to open the a/c duct doors.
2) If it is, where are the vacuum hoses located? I'd like to check them to see if they are connected or if they have a hole.
Its hot in St. Louis and my windshield sure is staying cold (ac blows from defrost vents only).
1999 Ford F350 7.3 diesel 4x4 (4x4 lever on the floor). About a month ago, the ac starts blowing out of the defrost vents only. I assumed it was a vacuum issue.
Lines looked good; very plyable still. Canister looked fine. The vacuum pump on the pass fender well smelled burnt, so I replaced it. Got the new pump in and it didn't work. Checked the fuse panel and found two blown fuses, replaced them and the pump worked.
Here's my issues: if AC max is used, the vacuum pump stops working and air blows through defrost only . If the dash switch is in the off position and then turned back on, air blows through defrost vents again and vacuum pump will not work.
Is there a solenoid or switch to this vacuum pump that I'm not seeing?
Haven't been on here for a while. My f250 AC vacuum pump is out. This means the AC being reverted to blowing out the defrost. I have found the defrost/vent vacuum solenoid and zip-tied it open for a vents-only experience. I just realized, without the vacuum pump, there is really no way of determining if it is on recirculate or fresh air. I wish for the recirculate so I don't get someone else's or my own exhaust in the cab. Does the system stay on recirculate without vacuum power? if not what actuator must I zip-tie next?
View 1 RepliesNeed to find vacuum hoses, a/c is stuck on defrost.
View 1 RepliesI have a '90 F150 without A/C. For some reason the healing system is stuck on defrost. No matter where I turn the selector switch ( floor, vent, etc) air only comes out the defrost. If I turn it to "off" it will turn off. What is wrong?
View 2 RepliesI just picked up another 2003 XLT and I'll be taking it in for inspection on Monday. Hoping it will pass easily, but there are a couple issues I'd like to address before going in there.
First and foremost, the heat/AC system is stuck in defrost. It will turn off when the selector is moved to the OFF position, but any other position just makes the air blow out the top of the dash. I did do some research on this beforehand (the seller made me aware of it) and I first looked at the actuator. When moving between positions, the actuator does not move at all. It does appear to be connected to the vent door's arm but there's no movement when going around the dial. I do hear what seems to be a relay kick on or off as I go through the different modes, but that's it. Does this point more towards a vacuum issue?
Second, and less significant...the self-dimming rear view mirror doesn't dim. It doesn't even power on. Where might the connection go for that mirror? Would be handy to have for night driving, but not that big of a deal if it's not functioning.
I'm also going to have to get the tailpipe mounted...seems it came off at some point and the seller asked me today if I wanted it. Uh...yeah, I'm gonna need that to pass inspection!
I am liking it so far. Runs well, rides well...I will be enjoying this one as well.
My 01 SD won't blow air anywhere but through the defrost vents.
View 9 RepliesThere is always something.... I just drove my girlfriend's new 2003 ranger edge home from the seller. Real nice truck. I noticed the heater selector doesn't change the air flow. It is on full blast for the defrosters, and is also trickling out of the floor and dash vents. No matter where you put the selector, thats the only place the air comes out.
The temp control seem to work OK, when you turn it on cold, you get cold air and visa versa. Even on AC and MAx AC... air out the defrosters. It's cold when you turn the temp control to cold.
I did some searching here and gather some info on checking the vac lines etc. Everything looks in place but one detail. The vac ball under the hood under the air box has 2 ports on the front end, and only one grey line going into it. The other port has what looks like a rubber boot and part of a very short vac line broken off it.
I looked, I cant find any loose vac lines. I'd like to know if this second port is suppose to have a second line on it, and where does it go? What color is it? Is this the reason the vent selector isnt working?
My defrost is stuck no matter which way I turn the control it won't come off. It just started doing this today. I think it might be a vacuum leak. When I turn my switch on the pump still clicking whether or not it's pumping.
View 2 RepliesMy parents 2000 Explorer is having issues...It started with check engine light...came back to Oxygen sensors...Replaced all 4....light came back...still a couple of same codes...P1151 and P0153...smoked the intake with Evap Leak Detector...have several small vacuum leaks...little at EGR (No EGR codes)...little at TPS (No TPS Codes)...Little at throttle shafts...and some coming from what looks like underneath throttle body....none of these are as much of a concern as the next thing....NOW the trans will not shift out of 1st...unless you manually shift it from Drive to 2nd...then no other gears...Reverse works fine.....
View 13 RepliesEvery time I turn my Ex off and start is again I have to turn my A/C completely off then hit the A/C and Recycle button to get air to blow out of the panel vents or it will automatically blow out of defrost vents no matter what setting it was on when I turned ignition off. Is there a blend door actuator/some sort of air diverter on these like my old Yukon XL had? On the Yukon the driver and passenger vents would blow hot and cold.
View 4 RepliesWell mine was. Checked all vac lines, 4wd was fine, tested with vac pump tested ok. So first I replaced the canister. Nope, actually happened more often. Pulled the 4wd solenoid that's mounted on the inner fender, rusted and split just above where the vac lines connect. I capped them and now my a/c is perfect, 4wd is out but for now I can live without 4wd.
View 3 RepliesI have a problem with my vent selector on my truck. It's a 2005 f350 lariat. The vent is stuck on defrost, some times after a few mins I can get it to switch to floor but not always. I have replaced the pump, checked tank for cracks, disabled and plugged the auto hubs. The pump will shut off so I assume it's not a leak. I believe it's in the switching unit, can these be repaired? I found a lot of dust and dirt in the vac tank that had been sucked through a bad hub. I think it may need to be disassembled and cleaned. I have seen videos showing how to replace the orings in the older units. Are the newer style remote ones the same?
View 5 RepliesMy ford's 4x4 will work if I manually lock in the hubs. If i use the auto option it will not engage. I can feel the rear end diff lock when I put it in 4-low so I know the switch is working. I think it is a vacuum actuated system. How to find the leak or diagnose the problem?
View 7 Replies