Ford Excursion :: Transmission Overflow After Steep Climb With TT?
Aug 4, 2015
Excursuin tranny overheated, Motorhome didn't. X transmission overflowed onto exhaust, lots of smoke. Lost a quart. How best to control transmission temps. Is burned tranny fluid okay to use?
Details: We went from Banning, Ca 2000ft to Pine Cove, Ca 7000ft in 23 miles. My wife's father drove the X with the 7,500lb trailer (total 15k?) while I drove the Ford F53 Class A about 28k. We both have the same engine (and transmission as far as I know).
I kept it in drive and he used 2nd all the way up. I have a tuner from 5 Star and pulled over and put it in park when I hit 230 on the transmission. When we checked into the campground I kept it in park idling and he shut the Excursion off. I know we lose HP and liquids boil at lower temps when at altitude, but I feel this could have been avoided with proper use of the transmission and cool down procedure. What is the best way to cool down the transmission? In my Motorhome a huge loud fan kicks on and the temps go down. On the X is there a point where he fan kicks on to cool the tranny? Is it a zero pressure system like the diff? Does it cool faster in Park or Drive (or off)?
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I recently got my 2007 Prius back from the body shop after a 13k repair following a crash that crumpled my front end. The car seemed to be doing fine, until a long, steep climb had the battery drop to one bar, speed dropping to 40 despite a floored accelerator, and a red triangle that appeared briefly before disappearing just as we completed the climb. It's the dropping speed despite a floored accelerator and the warning light that have me worried.
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A few days ago I posted a thread about losing power on a steep hill climb with a cold engine. I replaced the hybrid battery and all seemed well. A few days later, the problem occurred again--bummer. (The car has 120K miles and has spent most of its life in a hot and mountainous environment, and I knew the hybrid battery was failing, so that's not a problem.)
The car starts the climb OK, gains a few hundred feet in elevation, still has some charge left in the hybrid battery, then loses power, surges a couple of times, then comes to stop. The engine continues to run at idle and I get no warning or check engine lights. The "ready" light stays on. This time, the second time it happened, I turned off the car, turned it back on again immediately, and all was well. The remainder of the 1000' climb went fine. As did several other similar climbs on the same drive. Since then I've climbed this hill with a cold engine without a problem, so it's intermittent.
I hesitate to pay Toyota for a code scan since the check engine light did not come on. Should I do this anyway? My local auto parts store will scan for free, but I know that their scanner will not read Toyota-specific codes, just industry standards.
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Ok...not sure were to go with this or how to explain it, while climbing a steep paved hill at 5-10 mph I get a rumbling vibration and noise. If I were to guess almost like axle wrap is causing the U Joints to bind or something. Runs and drives fine other then that. If I put it in 4x4 it does not happen, only seems to happen when wheels cant slip while climbing hills at LOW speed.
Don't notice it if climbing a dirt hill. There is a hill at the kids baseball fields that is steep and paved that its really bad on, way to busy right now to play on it to see what's happening. Tranny was looked at and oil changed.
New BDS 4" lift - had same issue prior to lift, though stock springs were worn.
Searched the form but really didn't come up with anything at this low of speed. While in Wisconsin the resort we were at the paved hills were so steep it felt like something was going to break. Put it in 4x4 and it was fine. This was with stock leafs.
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I have an E-350 with auto trans and 460 engine. I am away from home and hope to make it back where I have tools to do the major work. I drove up a very steep hill and the trans fluid leaked at the steep part, but only when pointed uphill. I did it a 2nd time and it only leaked at the steep part (I was not aware of this the first time or I would not have done it again). Fluid was dripping out pretty good at the bell of trans. No leaks when in drive or R when engine running and level.
I added fluid and tried to back uphill to get van out of this place and it worked fine for a min, but now just rolls downhill. My question is can I just add fluid and get home? What the leak is? How long I can drive it, or if it will leak too much? When I get home (150 miles) I can do any repair needed, Im just trying to get home now.
I know we will be guessing a lot. Van is a 1995 Ford Cube Van, formerly a Ryder moving van. E-350 with the 460 engine, and 3 speed OD trans. I don't know any more detail on the trans. It should be heavy duty given it was a moving van. Van is probably 10-12,000lbs.
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I have owned my 2005 v10 ex since 60000 miles. Have had many dependable family road trips and love my truck.
Recently it has started puking coolant and the overflow tank smells like exhaust. The oil cap has some coolant sludge on it. But there is no coolant mixed with the oil. Or oil in the coolant.
I am pretty certain these are the signs of failing head gaskets. The truck has 193000 miles on it now.
Want to keep it on course. But keep it reliable. So do I buy new engine or do I just replace head gaskets?
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I have a 2006 f-250 super duty with a 6.0 and auto trans. I was pulling a trailer with about 5k of vehicle on the trailer.
Problem : after a long trip on good roads, I had to pull a steep hill. climbing the hill i did not shift into tow mode and all of a sudden my engine raced up to about 3k rpms and seemed to either shift to low or ( maybe ?) the Governor may engaged ?
Anyway I made it to the top of the grade and it seemed to be fine from there.
Question Is the trans broken, or did the computer maybe try to protect the trans ? It seems to work fine still?
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My parents are having trouble with there 2008 Santa fe 3.3 L. The transmission won't shift and the rpm's climb really high. Does that mean the transmission is going or is it something else.
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2005 Prius transmission starting to slip after hard mountain road climb? Just started to do this. Is there a transmission dip or check capability?
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My 2012 transmission seems to slip a fair amount (much more when it's cold).
When I say slip, I mean, when I give it the gas, it will rev up sometimes, and not move or move very little, while other times it will jerk around like a wild horse. The engine will rev / jump from 2,000 rpm to 4000 back and forth, back and forth. It will do this until it shifts to a higher gear and will stop doing it after 5 - 10 minutes?
On one occasion while going up a steep hill, it starting going backwards while I was giving it the gas. It caught up to itself and started jerking forward until it caught and went forward.
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On a steep hill, mine rolls back when the transmission is in high range, but it does not roll back when it's in low. On a mild incline, mine does not roll back when the transmission is in high.
VIN: '04 43xxx; latest tranny flash ("520" was the number, I think).
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Got my 1979 Ford Bronco (351M engine) from my father. He had it in Colorado, mostly in a garage. Had 82,000 miles when I got it and has 67,000 miles now. Runs fine when the outside temperature is less than 80F. Above 80F, the will get hotter and hotter and the temp. gauge will climb. When the temp. gauge is 2/3 of the wat between Cool and Hot it will start to buck and cut out. Eventually the engine will stop. Then I have to wait for it to cool down to repeat the cycle. I have replaced all hoses, radiator, thermostat (3 times), radiator cap, carb. I have installed SS louvers in the hood. Heck, I have even "burbed" it (see Internet).
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I thought I smelled anti freeze the other day pulling a hill with a trailer so I stopped and looked and have no puking and coolant level is exactly the same as when I changed the coolant last year and I haven't added any. So I went and bought a gauge and took the truck in over drive to 30psi boost floored to about 90mph and coolant pressure climbed from about 2psi to roughly 6psi and it stayed there until the truck cooled off at home. Truck has SCT tuned and ARP studs and egr delete.
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I have a 2002 F350 v10. I have 101,000 miles on it. When the Speedometer hit 15mph it starts to climb Rapidly to a 100mph then it stops and goes to 0. My miles go blank and when I slow down to around 5mph it comes back. I do know that I have a bad clock-spring and am changing that this weekend.
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I have an 04 Excursion v10 with 170K on odometer. I am having trouble with transmission shifting into 3rd. When I take off it shifts fine to 2nd, but it will not go into 3rd as it should. I can back off throttle and re accelerate a couple of times and then it will shift fine all day long. The OD light is not blinking but I did scan for codes and there is a soft code P1741 - there is no light on dash illuminated. Just wondering if this sounds like a valve body problem or shift solenoid. I am out of town and can't ohm test solenoids til I get home.
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I have a 2004 Ex/4x4/V10 with 141k miles. I bought this just over a year ago and have put about 15k miles on it (no troubles at all). I took it to the local dealer yesterday to have it serviced; oil, coolant & transmission filter/fluid change. It went into gear and shifted OK on the ride home but when I got in it today it won't go into gear. The shifter moves from P to all the gears but the tranny is like its in neutral all the time. The linkage moves the sensor on the side of the tranny and the plug on the sensor is secure. Any suggestions of anything to check before calling the dealer to come tow it to the shop? I have used this dealer for several years and trust them so I don't suspect anything about the service.
Thanks,
Scott
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So I just bought a 2012 F250 with 28,300 on the clock. I was driving it home yesterday (500 miles) and I noticed that every time I shut the truck down the external temp display would display -40 F at start up and then gradually climb to whatever the ambient temp is, around 60F but in that 500 mile distance it seemed to be stuck at whatever the high was and not drop unless I stopped the truck and powered it off and we would start at -40 again.
Where I should start troubleshooting this? I have some factory powertrain warranty left but this will not fall under that so I need to fix it myself and there is nothing in the owners manual about this. Oh it is a crew cab long box, with the 6.2, XL package but has all of the benefits of an XLT it just has vinyl floors.
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I have a 2003 Ford Explorer with around 93,000 miles on it. I got the oil changed just before going on a long trip. It had been about 4,000 miles since the last oil change. My trip was about 3.5 hours in each direction with mostly highway driving where I was cruising at around 65-70 MPH but some long steep hills mixed in as well. On the way to my destination after cresting over one of these long steep hills, and going about 60 MPH while heading up the hill, white smoke started billowing out of the exhaust every time I hit the gas pedal.
I pulled over and white smoke was creeping off the muffler as well. I'm not very mechanically inclined, but opened up the hood anyways, and no smoke or anything in there. I let the car sit for about 5 minutes until the smoke stopped creeping off the muffler then drove the rest of the 30 minutes or so to my destination with no more problems.
On the return trip, the same thing happened (different hill) with about the same timeline. I was about 30 minutes out from home, had just crested over a long steep hill going around 60 MPH and the white smoke started coming out again every time I hit the gas. Pulled over again, waited for the smoke to dissipate and for no more to be coming off the muffler and finished my drive home with no problems.
I've only owned the car for about 6 months. I haven't encountered anything like this up to this point. And in the month or so driving it since the trip and incident, I have not seen any white smoke . There are no warning lights on, the temperature gauge looks completely normal. From what I have read online it seems like coolant would be causing this white smoke, but I can't figure out why it only happened on these two occasions. What is going on or what I should do?
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I was coasting down a steep hill yesterday when the CEL came on. I pulled the code this morning and got code P0174, system too lean bank 2.
I cleared the code. Should I just wait to see if it happens again? The truck is running great. There is no sign of a problem. BTW, it's 99 F150 5.4.
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My 4R100 transmission just went out in my 2001 X with a 6.8 Triton in it. I am wondering if a transmission from a 5.4 is the same exact thing since it is more common.
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Overdrive off button hasn't worked in a couple years and there is no power to the switch so I figure the wires across the column are damaged. Even after replacing the button a couple times the ends were always falling off so I'm ready to replace the entire shifter arm assembly. I also need to replace the bushings since the arm is loose.
I will also be installing yet another turn signal since the one from Rock Auto didn't last long. The new one will be from Auto Zone, which said the shifter arm is a dealer only item.
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