Got a 97 ford explorer sport that wont start. It will go like its going to start but I've only got it to run with ether then dies got new battery n tps thinking its the alternator because i hear a ticking in that area and the battery is now dead after i charged it all the way up granted. I did try consistently to get and keep running?
View 3 Replies1997 Acura Cl 2.2 ... Ticking noise coming from the dash board and glove box area ( sounds like blinker ticking noise).
View 1 RepliesJust a quick question, my 2006 4.6 explorer has a ticking noise when you first start it up. It lasts for about 10 seconds and goes away. Sounds like a valve tappet when the oil needs changed etc. It has been running 5-w-20 in it like the book says. I'm going to change it again and see if it works. Any luck changing to a different grade.10w-30?
View 2 Replies1997 Explorer belonging to a friend who will show up complaining that his battery is dying. Of course, the problem is intermittent.
So far, tried 2 new alternators, (rebuilds), 3 batteries and several diagnostic sessions which have been inconclusive. What I do know is that when the charging system is not working, I still have full battery voltage on the Y/W and LG/R wires on the small wire plug at the alternator. The path from the alternator output through the megafuse to battery + does seem to be intact. Measures full battery voltage and even tried a test by using a battery booster cable to connect the alternator output directly to battery + when the system was not charging.
No change with this test. Visual inspection of the engine to firewall ground strap and the battery - to rad cradle ground wire seem to be OK. Have not had the opportunity to try the jumper cable trick to verify the alternator case to battery - circuit, (darn intermittent!). There did seem to be something intermittent related to a wiggle test in and around the power distribution fuseblock, but once again, this was inconclusive. I also was able to make the charging system fail, (once) by turning on the headlights and blower motor.Any specific failures that may cause this? Not much left to change or check!
My 1997 ford explorer has this problem that when you start the engine it runs fine then it's makes a choking sound in the throttle body area I have a video of it on YouTube here's the link :
1997 Ford Explorer Engine Trouble !!! - YouTube....
And the truck doesn't give any ob11 codes.....
A co worker gave me an 1986 F-150 5.0 302 with 225,000 miles that he had sitting for 1 year in driveway. He never put the new alternator in that he bought. I towed it to my house and put the alt. in jumped the battery and it started but idle was horrible. turned the idle screw to get bad gas burned off.
Whenever I shut it off or it died from idle I would have to jump it. So, I put new 56-3 battery new relay and it started right up. Drove it down the road to test drive, the truck would want to fowl out whenever I stepped on gas peddle hard. I put Sea Foam and Lucas in the tank and 20.00 premium on top. but now the truck will not turn over since it was shut off unless i jump it but needs jumping all the time. thought it was the starter so, replaced that and still tick, tick, tick, tick when trying to start won't turn over. Its going to start to make me drink, what I can replace now or have checked? maybe its the Alternator he gave me with the truck?
My exlporer heat and A/C system has been making "ticking or flapping" noises for sometime. So, to make it stop I would turn fan to full blast and it would stop and the heater would function fine after that. Last week we hasd a warm spell and I switched to A/C (going through the same process to stop the noise). All was well until I tried to switch back to heat after the warm spell, and now I get nothing but cold air. The noise will only stop when I turn the temp dial to the cold side, but either way, all I get is cold air. Is this something I can fix, and if not what am I looking at for repair cost? I'm freezing!!!
View 3 RepliesIts getting worse. Noticed it a month or so ago, very slight ticking noise when the engine was cold. It would go away after a minute or two when the engine warmed up. Kinda sounded like a lifter ticking type noise when low on oil but I was not low on oil.
Now its getting more noticeable and it doesn't go away. Very noticeable when I take off or accelerate. less noticeable when I take my foot off the gas but its still there.
What it might be? I am pretty newbie about engines and I don't want some repair outfit telling me I need a rebuilt engine if all I need is to tighten my manifold or something. Because that would be my luck.
2000, XLT, 5 Liter V8, 178K miles.
Came home from a 3-hour trip. Back in my garage my wife is outside while I maneuver the car into place, and she tells me she hears weird ticking, which I can actually notice myself as coming from the front right-hand side (sitting at the wheel).
Turns out when the brakes are applied, the car is not moving, and the shift lever is in D -- there is a ticking sound coming from the transmission area. Shifting to N or P or R -- no noise, only when in D. The ticking is not consistent, it's changing from slower to faster to slow again, no matter how much I put pressure on the brakes (it's not the brakes squeaking).
Today was the first time I was in my RX without the radio since I bought it. I have a 2011 RX CPO with 65000kms on the odometer.
When the vehicle is idling there is a tick-tick noise coming from the engine area that does not go away. I initially thought this noise was due to it being 0 Degree C but the noise continued for the duration of my 45 minute drive. Later in the day the noise was consistent was did not silence.
I drive a '99 F150 4x4 5.4 EFI 196,000 miles. Recently I started noticing a growling noise that followed engine speed. I immediately thought alternator going out. So I pulled the belt off and it spins free and doesn't feel rough at all.
So I started it up and realized the noise got a lot louder when the ac clutch cycled. Now I'm thinking ac compressor. A short trip to my mechanic who didn't even really look at it very long and he said the compressor is about ready to seize up. I thought I might just put on an ac bypass pulley to get by for a while. Not really a sound decision in the middle of July, I'm thinking, but I'm poor and it beats having the compressor lock up, right?
Today, when I get off work and pop the hood with the ac off and the clutch not engaged the noise is worse than ever. I put a stethoscope (long screwdriver, I told you I was poor) on the alternator and it is making all of the noise. Turned the ac on again and it was really making noise now. So I applied the stetho-driver to the ac compressor and it is quiet as can be.
I am cautiously optimistic that the alternator is the sole culprit and that it only gets louder when the ac cycles because of the extra drag on the belt.
Does that seem like a logical explanation? Should I just try the alternator? I really don't want to destroy a perfectly functioning ac system only to find out that it was OK to begin with and I don't want to buy a $150 alternator for no reason either.
My husbands GMC truck has an occasional ticking noise coming from the engine area. The noise happens when you crank up although it doesn't always happen. It will sometimes go several weeks without ticking/clicking. When it does start, the sound usually goes away after the truck "warms up" for a minute. The ticking/clicking does not change pattern when you accelerate. The mechanic said it just needed an oil change, but my husband has made sure to check the oil.
View 2 RepliesI have an 02 Eddie Bauer V8 AWD that is making a ticking noise at low speeds ( under 10mph ) on the pass. side. It sounds like a rock in a hubcap noise. I have pulled the wheels and checked the CV boots and they are fine.
View 3 RepliesThe other day my 2002 Sport Trac with 4.0 started to miss badly. It has only about 90,000 miles on it. It started to do this suddenly from one turn of the key to the next. It also makes a weird noice that sounds as if its coming from the intake area that can be described as a "chuffing" sound thats in time with the engine. The intake also gets very warm to the touch. We have since stopped driving it. I sprayed carb cleaner all around where the intake meets the head with no change in rpm. I also checked the plastic hose that goes behind the engine to the pcv valve and its ok.
View 10 RepliesIt's a 2006 hyundai sonata LX.
Now Is it anything I should worry about? Car has 72000 on it. Always used synthetic Mobil 1 5w 30.
This is on a completely cold start up, 30 degrees outside. Only makes the noise until car warms up. Anything I can do to prevent this? Or is it not something to worry about? Should I just let the car warm up a little before I drive it?
[URL]...............................
2008 - <40k miles. Drove the car a good 50 miles yesterday with no problems. today as i was leaving the house, i kept hearing a ticking noise that was progressive in frequency the faster i drove it. i only made it to the end of my street, went back home to drive off in my gas guzzler for my 50mile round trip today.
View 2 RepliesI have a mk4 R32 74k miles on it ... I recently brought the car to the dealer and I will never do it again !!! Never had any problems until now .. I brought it in for the radio and they diagnose the problem so they ordered me a new radio that's all they looked at and it's the only time it ever went into the dealership .. Today I start the car and I have a ticking noise coming from behind the center console radio glovebox area and I can't figure it out ?? I thought it was vibration from the motor so I gave it a little gas in neutral nothing ?? I turned the radio on and off still have the noise ? Turned on an off the climate control still have the noise ?? Don't know what it is ? Friends say it sounds like a relay that's coming on and off ??
View 3 Replies2002 ford explorer v8 4x4, ok I had some noise coming front the right maybe middle axle area so I pulled the driver's side tire and inspected all the bushings ball joints and hubs. The hub had a little play and so did the upper ball joint. So I replaced the hub thinking this could be the problem and the steering stabilizer bar (all the bushing on the bar where toast). Ever thing was tight but the upper ball joint still had a little play but not enough for me to spend the $ to replace the whole control are (as I am told you cannot replace just the ball joints you have to replace the whole control arm). Any way got it all back together and still same nose. What it could be? Also the four wheel low will not engage could this be part of the problem or one more thing un related ( the four high engages just not the low)...
View 14 Replies2002 Chevy Tahoe Z71 ... When I first turn my car on in the morning (or after an extended period of time - i.e. the car has completely cooled down) it makes a clicking / ticking noise that appears to be coming from the engine area. It lasts approximately 10 - 12 seconds and then simply goes away. This happens consistently. I recently had it serviced end-to-end: belts, plugs, total tune-up etc.
View 3 RepliesHaving problems with a squeaking or ticking noise coming from the front windshield area on the passenger side? I took off the A-pillar and tweeter speaker cover, and the noise was still there. Pressing on the A-pillar did not work and it's not any of the cords or plastics in there rubbing. It almost sounds like it's behind the A-pillar. Pressing on the dash, windshield, headliner, etc. all have no effect on the noise.
I'm trying really hard to fix this myself because I'm worried about a tech tearing apart the dash trying to fix it. It might end up worse than it is now. I'm thinking this TSB will need to be done (which seems to apply to all Toyotas): [URL] ....
Next on my list to check is the passenger side mirror (make sure it's fastened securely) and also the black liner under the windshield wipers. I also have foam (like the kind you use when installing a window AC) which I may also try stuffing into the bottom of the front windshield (and maybe the top) to see if that works.
If all else fails, the car is going to the dealer I guess. The Camry is such a quiet car that the noise is really irritating in an otherwise quiet interior. Other than this noise, the car is great! Just a little bummed because my 2005 has zero rattles or noises and my gf's old 2009 also had no rattles or noises. The 2015 refresh is nice, though we're still on the fence about the front grille. My relative is waiting for the 2016's to be released later this year and then he will be buying one for his patrol car. The 2015 isn't a full redesign but it looks different enough that he wants to wait for the next MY to come out. He's dreading leaving behind his 5MT Civic but it needs to be replaced. He hasn't had an auto, ever, come to think of it..
It sounds exactly like this, and is at its worse when accelerating: [URL] ....
Vehicle is 1998 F150 with 194k. The battery is 1 1/2 yrs old and belts and alternator are original.
Yesterday morning my VHF and dog tracking eqipment started humming with the truck running. The hum on the tracking eqpt. only happened when I pointed the antennae over the direction of the hood with truck running. When I shut truck off everything is normal. Later in the day the battery light came on. The battery light would go off if I kept it over 2400 rpm's. The charge on the dash was normal but as I got closr to home last night it dropped to almost nothing and the lights were very dim.
I am thinking alternator. What I am confused about is the humming noise in the background. The tracking eqpt. is completely separate from the truck while the VHF is direct to the battery with an iline fuse. Bad voltage regulator?