Ford - Explorer :: 2003 - Idling Rough With P2196 And P0174 Codes


Jan 22, 2017

I've got an '03 Explorer with the 4.0L SOHC that I got for a deal on craigslist as it needed timing chain tensioners. I got that all done and it runs and drives relatively well, but it idles a little bit rough - especially when it's sitting in gear at a stop light. My go-to first attempt for idling issues is to squirt off the MAF sensor, throttle body, and squirt some starter fluid around the vacuum lines to check for vacuum leaks (though it's possible I may have missed a line or two). Neither seemed to work much. I cleared the codes, dumped some Sea Foam and fresh fuel in it and drove it around a little bit and it threw the CEL light, got about 10 mpg, and generally just didn't seem to have as much power as it should (though I have no experience with the 4.0 in a explorer, soI'm not counting that as a hard fact).

I pulled the codes and I've got a:

P2196 (O2 sensor stuck rich - bank 1 sensor 1)
(and)
P0174 (system too lean - bank 2)

That seems kinda weird to me. Bank 1 is rich and bank 2 is lean? That would make it idle and run weird, for sure, but I'm having a bit of a hard time figuring out what would cause that. I think my next step would be to check/replace the plugs, but that's more of a shot in the dark than a proper diagnosis.

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Ford - Explorer :: 2003 - Sputter - Got Codes P2196 And P0405 - O2 Sensor?

I have a 2003 Explorer 4.6, about 2 weeks ago the CEL kicked on but I didn't notice any problem. Last week I stopped at a red light and felt it shacking a little, I took off everything seem ok. At the next light I felt it again and that time it started sputtering, I drove it for a few more days and it would sputter now and then as I was driving and every time when I would stop when it was in drive. I had the codes pulled and it came back with P2196 & P0405 (o2 & EGR).

I was going to buy a new 02 sensor & EGR but I was told that a bad EGR could be causing the o2 code also. I put the new EGR on yesterday and had the codes cleared. I test drove it for about 10 miles with no problems. Today while driving I felt it start doing it again and about 5 mins. later the CEL was back on. I got the codes and again its P2196 & P0405, Should I have changed the 02 sensor instead or what I should do next?

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Ford - Explorer :: 2003 - Lean Codes P0171 And P0174

2003 Sport Trac. My car was not starting, told my fuel pump, replaced twice and nothing. Found out about inertia switch and changed it, now car runs.

Before this switch blew out my car was running perfectly, no check engine, nothing. Now i have changed my fuel pump twice and put a brand new fuel filter in and soon after i get lean codes P0171 and P0174. My fuel pressure is 60psi at idle and drops to 0 after about 30 seconds when the car is shut off.

A lot of my intake is new since i did have a vacuum leak before, so i do not suspect that is it, especially since this happened after the new fuel pump. I am completely stuck as to what i should do. And i get hesitation when trying to accelerate sometimes

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Ford - Explorer :: 2003 - P0171 And P0174 Codes - Rubber Elbow Begin To Collapse

2003 Ford Explorer, with P0171 and P0174 codes, common problem, as I have read. I pulled the cover over the engine off, and I immediately found the likely problem. There is a hose/connection that runs from the valve cover on the right side, about 6 inches behind the oil fill tube across and looks like it comes into the Carb. Where it turns to come into the carb is a rubber elbow. This elbow has a hole in it. Temporarily I have used electrical tape, but when I run the vehicle, I see the elbow begin to collapse. I believe the elbow is getting weak with age, plus the hole/tear doesn't work. Anyway, what i the part number, or what this is called. Hoping Advance Auto, or Napa will have it, just don't know what it is called, and can't figure out the part number. Otherwise I will pull it off tomorrow and take to advance and see if they can match it.

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Ford - Explorer :: SES Light On / Codes P2196 And P0405

I have an 03 Explorer 4.6L that is running bad. The code was P2196, I changed B1S1 O2 sensor and cleared code. A few minutes later the SES light was on, I checked codes and now I have P2196 (again) and P0405. Why I was only getting the O2 code and now I have it again after replacing it and a new code (0405 EGR)..

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Ford - Explorer :: 2001 - Too Lean Codes P0171 And P0174

Working on my son's 2001 sport trac. 200K miles but it has always been a great running truck.

I have two CEL codes:

P0171 System too Lean (Bank 1)
P0174 System too Lean (Bank 2)

I have found several issues so far, but have yet to get rid of these pesky codes.

So far I have changed:

- Intake Gasket - I had coolant loss which replacing this gasket fixed.
- PCV Valve and Hose - valve was damaged and the hose leaked.
- EGR Valve - Valve was leaking
- Fuel Filter
- Mass Airflow Sensor

The engine does appear to be running much smoother now, but the lean codes remain.

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Ford - Explorer :: Codes P0171 And P0174 - Lean Bank 1 And 2 Sensor 2

I have been getting a P0171 and a P0174 code lean bank 1 and 2 sensor 2. I have replaced all 4 censers the 171 is gone but I keep getting the P0174 and it only comes on when I am on the highway after driving around 10 miles or so i got a freeze frame of the data when it happen.

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Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Running Rough - Check Engine Light Came On And Got Codes P0171 And P0174

My 1999 F350 SD V10 that would crank but not start. I ended up checking numerous things because before it decided to truly stop running, it would run rough for a time and then be fine. The check Engine Light came on and I got the codes P0171 & P0174. Well, I bought MAF Cleaner and took the air cleaner housing off, disassembled it and thoroughly cleaned the sensor and replaced the air cleaner. I continued to get those same error codes, but before I could go any further, the truck totally died. It sat for nearly 2 months with the bed in the air as I had decided to lift the bed to check the fuel pump vs. drop the tank.

Fast forward a bit and I have since replaced the fuel pump and put $40 of Premium Gas along with Royal Purple Fuel Treatment in the tank because I figured things got stirred up and could use a bit of cleaning. I do not drive much, and during the first few trips, it ran perfectly. Then today, it started again with the rough running and trying to die if I let it idle. If I pushed on the gas, it would completely smooth out. If this were a carbureted engine, I would think the low idle was set too low, but since it is not, I am guessing it is one or more of the sensor/s that is/are causing the issue.

I am disabled and can’t play parts swap until I hit on the right part, so I was hoping that I might get some guidance here to narrow things down to the most probably causes so that I won’t go broke changing things until I hit the “right one”. The truck has 153,000 miles on it and I had bought it from a retired couple who used it to pull their 5th wheel travel trailer, so it had mostly highway miles on it. It was immaculate when I bought it and ran perfectly, needing only normal maintenance (oil changes, etc.) over the past 12 years that I have owned it. In those 12 years, I have put about 60,000 miles on it.

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Engine Service Light - Codes P0171 And P0174

2001 F150 5.4L Triton Motor. Everything seemed o.k. then got the Engine Service Light. Checked with reader and above codes only appeared. Read numerous articles/videos and pulled the PCV hose/boot assembly and replaced the whole thing with oem part. Visually checked for disconnected tubing = none found. After this and with the new hose assembly in place I performed a reset. With the scanner still connected restarted engine and read values: ST FTRM1&2 = -.08~+2.3, both oxygen sensor voltages are varying and the LT FTRM1&2 hang around +26 and +28.

From what I understand the ST seems o.k. but the long term is WAY OUT OF WHACK. Started it up again and took carb cleaner spray and covered all the connections I could see = no change in engine rpm. No cracks in the air cleaner body. Big plug to the MAF was inserted and plugging the hole. I am thinking of making a smoke "machine" and trying that or removing the hoses from the throttle body and plugging the holes in the throttle body and see if that clears them up. IF it does then connect one by one and keep checking the values. Lot more work but I am at a loss.

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2002 - SES Light Came On - Showing Codes P0171 / P0174

2002 F150 - 5.4 ... So just bought this truck about a month an a half ago. No problems but the other day the SES came on. It is showing P0171 and P0174. And P0000 (almost forgot that one) was told that's generic though. Haven't really noticed a difference in the way it's running. Has been extremely cold here in WV but the only thing I can notice (or think I notice) is the gas mileage has gone down a little. After reading some on this forum I'm looking for a vacuum leak correct?

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Shaking And Idle Bounces Between 500 And 750 - Codes P0172 And P0174

2003 f150 5.4, 4x4 ... Truck is shaking pretty bad, idle bounces between 500 and 750, and its throwing p0172 (rich on bank 1), P0174 (lean on bank 2), and it looks like a misfire on cylinder 8 judging by that power graphy thingy. I'm going to check for a vacuum leak tomorrow on the PCV.

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: P0306 And P0174 Codes - Engine Overheating And Coolant Reservoir Dry

I have a 1999 4x2 F150 XL, 4.2L engine, 5-speed trans., about 197,600 miles and have been getting P0306 and P0174 codes. The check engine light came on and stayed on. Also, pretty much randomly, my engine over-heats and the engine compartment coolant reservoir is suddenly dry as a bone. I bought the truck new and this has only happened twice, during normal driving.

Clearing the 0306 and 0174 codes. Not sure what to do about the over-heating thing.. What I've done so far to try to clear the codes is the least expensive stuff:

=> Replaced both forward O2 sensors, have read where the two rear O2 sensors don't necessarily need to be replaced so I haven't replaced them yet. The sensors that came off are Bosch, as are the ones that I bought from Autozone and installed.
=> Replaced old spark plugs with Motorcraft brand, gapped to 0.054 in.
=> Replaced old spark plug wires with Motorcraft spark plug wires.
=> Cleaned the MAF sensor
=> Replaced PCV valve and replaced an section of elbow hose near it. The original elbow had a big hole right at the 90-degree bend, on the inside.
=> Replaced a cracked, dried-out, vacuum hose coming from the evap cannister purge valve and going to the front underside of the upper intake manifold.
=> replaced fuel filter.

After doing all this, I took it out on the road long enough for the computer to wake up and relearn and got the check-engine light again. Only this time it was flashing. I gather from reading in this forum that a flashing CEL is worse than a constant-on CEL so I drove back home and have yet to take it back out.

After reading about problematic ignition coils, I followed a procedure in my Haynes manual to check mine out:

=> Verified the correct resistance values at the electrical connector (0.7 ohms),
=> Verified battery voltage is present at the harness side of the electrical connector (about 12.6 volts),
=> checked the resistance values between the three sets of 'towers'. Starting from front to back, the resistance readings were 13.06 kOhms, 13.12 kOhms, and 12.98 kOhms. The correct range in the Haynes book is 6.5 to 11.5 kOhms so I thought maybe my ignition coil was bad.

I located a Motorcraft ignition coil at a local O'Reilly Auto Parts store, went there, and was able to check the resistance values on that new one. Turns out the resistance on the new one at the parts store is pretty much the same as that on the one on my truck (all three coils were 13.something kOhms), so I haven't replaced the ignition coil. I guess either my Haynes book is probably incorrect or the ignition coil on my particular F150 has different resistance values than the rest of the vehicles covered by that manual.

Next things I'm looking at replacing:

=> egr valve and the associated line to the DPFE sensor. (DPFE replaced a few years back, as a result of a P0401 code)
=> iac valve
=> upper intake plenum gaskets

I'm kind of at a loss at this point. I hate to just continue replacing things without knowing that I'm replacing the right things.

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1999 - Check Engine Light Codes P0171 And P0174 Lean On Bank 1 / 2

I have a 99 f150 with the 4.2l v6 with a 5 speed 173000 miles. I picked it up not to long ago. When I first got it it had both the P0171 & P0174 lean on bank 1&2 it was also siting for a while. I replaced the fuel filter which was filled with black fuel, also changed the PCV valve, cleaned the MAF sensor, and changed the oil. I cleared the code, drove it for a little bit and the light came back on after 20 miles.

I then proceeded to replace the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets. Upon doing that i noticed that i was missing one of the linkages for the IMRC. I went to the junkyard and pulled off another linkage rod off the same motor. ordered new plastic clips, put the IMRC on cleaned everything up and began putting it back together. I also cleaned the Injectors while i had them out as well and put in new spark plugs and wires.

Put everything back together. code was cleared since the battery was disconnected. drove it and then the engine light came back on again. this time it was only the p0174. so i then both the upstream and downstream O2 sensors on bank 2, reset the code and it came back on again. I'm lost.

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Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2003 F250 SD 4x4 - DTC Codes P0171 / P0174 - Loose Fitting Oily Hose?

I've had DTC P0171 & P0174 (lean in bank 1 and lean in bank 2) for a few weeks now (check engine light cued me on it). Autozone scanned it for me. It's on a 2003 F250 SD 4x4 5.4L.

My first step was to clean the MAFS. Light came back on in about 30-40 miles. I then replaced the MAFS. 30-40 miles and the light came back on.

My first thought was disconnecting the battery wasn't resetting the comp and thats why the light was comming back on.

I went and picked up an Actron cheapy OBD II Scanner today at lunch. Cleared the codes with the scanner and drove back to work.

Checked the codes when I got back (no light on but was curious) and it shows P0171 & P0174 pending.

I've checked and the dipstick is seated properly. The hoses on the air intake appear to seated properly as well. The top hose is a pretty loose fit but it was seated all the way down. The top hose was oily. Not sure if this is normal or not. Could the loose fitting oily hose be the culprit?

Also, what is the lower hose? It comes off the back of the air intake and goes to the driver side valve cover. I know it's not the PCV hose as that is on the passenger side valve cover....right?

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1999 - Misfire / Running Rough - Code P0305 And P0174

Here is my situation : I have a F150 1999 4x4 ext cab with 326 000 km. A little while ago I got a P0401 code so I decide to clean the TB first and at the same time change plugs and wires since they were overdue. The same code came back and a misfire. Ordered EGR valve, DPFE sensor and selenoid. Realize that I had ordered crappy plugs by mistake. I change all plugs. Had to wait for the EGR valve and others to arrive. I drove the truck for a while since I did not have the time to change the valve and others, during that time the misfire did not come back. Yesterday I change the EGR and others. Today I get a truck that runs really rough and got new codes , P0305 and P0174. I'm really confused now on what should be my next step, should I change the coils, can a P0305 cause a P0174. Should I change vacuum hose going to the EGR , selenoid and DPFE.

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Ford - Explorer :: 2004 - Idling Rough Around 500 RPM

I've got a 2004 Explorer 4X4 with the FlexFuel 4.0L V6 126,xxxish Miles... Last Monday i noticed that the x was idling rough around 500rpm. While in park or driving.

I spent Wednesday looking for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner, cleaned the MAF, Changed the Hose that runs from the intake to the evap purge valve thinger.

Broke off the two torx head bolts holding the TPS on and had to buy a whole new throttle body. Installed the new throttle body and fired it up. it idles around 1000 for a few seconds then drops to 500 ish rpm. While the rpms are coming down it runs as rough as it did before..

I've filled it with premium gas and added a bottle of gas dryer to the tank and still idling like crap, drives fine though.

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Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Codes P0053 / P0132 / P2195 And P2196 After Manifold Swap

Had my friends shop replace my passenger side exhaust manifold on my 2004 FX4. Two studs at the front broke flush and one other broke but was sticking out of the head. To get room they did the trick of unbolting the trans mount and the passenger side engine mount and moved the engine over. All is back together but started throwing the 53,132, 2195 and 2196 codes, engine seamed to run fine though. Before bringing it back in I decided to check for any simple things, vacuum leaks or connectors that might have been knocked loose. At first I thought this was a good candidate for a vacuum leak but it turned out to be a vent for the front hubs.

My next thought was that maybe the pass side upstream oxygen sensor got knocked during the work and was now shorting out. It is very tight on that passenger side! Truck has 102,000 miles so they were at the end of their lives. I decided to just replace all 4 with OEM units. I used one of the oxygen/mapp gas torches from the hardware store and a 7/8 in wrench. The drivers side was easy and I did not have to remove the drive-shaft like some write-ups discussed.

Although doing that would give plenty of room. Pass side downstream is fairly easy, upstream was a bit tougher. I took out the inner fender skirt and loosened the trans dipstick tube. That gave just enough room for my large hands to reach in and turn the connector so the sensor side of the plug faced out. I used a pick and fashioned a hook out of a coat hanger to pull the connector apart. That ended up being the hardest part. Putting a good amount of heat into the sensor bung quickly made all the difference in getting them out.

Here is what the upstream pass side sensor looked like. Could not see it from below or from the wheel well.

The codes are all gone now (were coming back after one drive before) so I think the sensor was the issue.

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Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2008 - No Power / Throwing Codes P2196 And P2198

2008, 5.4 liter, F250, with 6-speed manual transmission

My truck was running fine until I decided to clean my engine. I just wanted to remove the extra dust covering it, so I used a low pressure garden hose to wash away the dirt that had accumulated last winter and spring.

It started throwing codes like Fuel Rail pressure sensors, P0191, P0192. I had no power, and I could hardly drive the truck.

I figured I had some water in some connectors, so I checked around, but could not detect any moisture.

I kept driving it, and the problem got less severe. One warm summer day, I drove my truck for about an hour trip, and everything looked fine after this. Problem never came back.

I was even noticing that it was better on gas that ever before, I was doing 11liters/100km, in city driving.

Until one day (2 months later), I had to disconnect the battery to do some servicing on my truck (more that 30 minutes), and it started to run crappy again, having some piston misfire, throwing codes P2198 and P2196, (O2 sensors). No power, if I am very gentle on the gas pedal, I can manage it, but as soon as i try to accelerate, runs like crap, black smoke coming out of the exhaust.

The problem comes and goes, sometimes, the problem stops, and I can get going, no issues. Air filter is clean, even tried with no air filter, no differences., but it really sounds like bad air/fuel mixture.

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Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2006 - At Idle Engine Run Around 1000 Rpm - Error Codes P0113 And P2196?

Have a 2006 ford escape, at idle the engine will run around 1000 rpm's and then regularly dip down 500 rpm's. Through the intake i can here a distinct "thwap" when the RPM's dip.

Only codes are

P0113 and P2196

Problems accelerating sometimes, Took it too a shop they said bad exhaust valve on the backside of the engine either 1-2-3. They said needed engine work, but said they didn't know where the bad valve was so i don't even know how the made the determination. Vac gauge at idle also indicates bad valve.

However, when i give it even the smallest amount of gas possible the engine smooths out and vac gauge reads totally normal and steady.

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Passat (B6) :: Idling Is Little Rough - 3 Codes P0011 / P2293 And P000A

Only thing I've noticed is the idling is a little rough but the car has 88k on it so that's expected. I haven't checked the cam follower yet and know I'll probably need to change it so that's going to happen in the next week.

I had a code for P000A & P2293 for a few months that would throw a MIL and I would reset it and it would come back after a while. I finally replaced the cam sensor and I didn't see a MIlL for about 6 weeks and one day it came back. Once I scanned the car it showed P000A again. I cleared the code and everything seemed fine until yesterday. I went to start the car and the car wouldn't turn over.

I pulled the key out and tried it again and it worked. More and more I think about it, the car doesn't turn over smoothly over the past few months but maybe I'm just looking for things. I ended up scanning it last night and it had a code for P2293 & P0011. I cleared them both but what could be causing all this and cannot afford to bring the car in to the mechanic. It's out of warranty and I'm broke and X-Mas is around the corner.

2006 Passat 2.0T

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Ford - Explorer :: 2004 V6 Rough Idle - Codes P2104 And P2112

I have a 2004 Explorer with the 4.0L SOHC V6.

I was having some rough idle and a P0401 code for Insufficient EGR Flow. In the process of investigating the EGR valve, I had to remove the throttle position sensor to remove the EGR. After re-installing everything, I had a worse rough idle and I again removed the EGR valve; however this time instead of removing the throttle position sensor, I removed the entire throttle body assembly.

After re-installing everything again, I now have very rough idle and no pedal response. I have the following two codes:

P2104- Throttle Actuator Control System Forced Closed
P2112- Throttle Actuator Control System Stuck Closed

I did not unplug any harness, and all connections are secure. I did not remove the battery cables while working on it, but I did remove the negative cable for about 45 minutes after getting the P2104/P2112 codes hoping a reset my fix things.

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