What the noise is when i step on the gas and it sounds like my grandpaps tracheotomy tube humming a low tune. Kinda vibrates, low tone kazoo or stinkbug sound when flying around the light in the house. only low speeds starting out, goes away at higher rpm.oh its a 05 sport trac 4x4
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 Explorer XLT Sport 4x4 w/ 118k miles. I am having front end noise when I go over speed bumps, driveway aprons, etc.
I already replaced the Struts/Coils, and ball joints, the sway bar end links are newer. The noise is almost like a noise an old spring mattress would make.
What could the issue be?
I have a 93 Ford explorer, when I start off at a high speed I hear a rattle noise, when I'm going up a hill it starts to make the rattling noise and the check engine light comes on, also when going up the hill when this happens I'm going around 110 and it kinda like powers out slows down on its own to 80, when I have the pedal down all the way you can hear I think over drive kicks in the rattling stops but no power and when I release the pedal a little the rattling noise comes back. Also the RPM is at 4 when i have the pedal all the way down.
View 1 RepliesI own a 2002 Ford Explorer and I need diagnosing a problem. Whenever I start to pick up speed it starts to buckle and I always have the 4x4 on auto and it still buckles.
View 1 RepliesI'm looking at a dirt cheap Explorer 4.0, has been sitting for 2 years. Runs nice, with a double "knock" noise but quieter than a rod knock. Idles smooth at 600 rpm, "knock" is consistent, but increases as engine increases speed. Has 2 year old oil, and 2 year old gas. Would a tune up support it, and revitalize it, or is the engine almost dead. Still drives, didn't push it to hard. Interior is 9/10, exterior is 10/10. I have him down to 600. 4x4 works, and feels good.
View 6 RepliesThe history: I have a 98 ford explorer 156k miles. V6 automatic AWD w/ 4WD. I recently took it in for a rebuild on the transmission due to 3rd gear slippage. When I picked it up (after business hours) the dashboard lit up like a christmas tree with code lights about 4wd & OD. It drove fine and I needed the vehicle so I took it and called the mechanic the next day. He advised me if they did something wrong they would fix it but he would have to run the codes to know what was going on. He told me if it drove fine it was ok to take my time about coming in. Since it was an hour drive (and time off work) I waited till the following week. They ran the codes and determined that they had forgot to "plug my 4wd in" and it was throwing every code possible for that system. Lol...
The problem: During the week I drove it I noticed a distinct grinding / chunking noise when I punched the gas hard at any speed in any gear. It happens about 85% of the time and is sometimes light noise and sometimes very bad.
I knew previously that I had bad ball joints so I figured it was that issue making a grinding noise based on the truck rocking back when I gassed it hard.
After about 2 weeks of hearing the grinding occasionally, it gets to bothering me so I go get the ball joints fixed. New ball joints and it still grinds... Now Im really worried it the transmission so I go back to the transmission mechanic yesterday (another half day off work and hour drive) and he test drives it. Tells me it is the transfer case going bad. Also tells me it wasnt like that when I picked it up because they 'test drive' every car after the work is complete (but somehow didnt notice the flashing codes on this test drive).
The question:
Is it possible while rebuilding the transmission or installing it, that they damaged the transfer case?
Are these systems connected directly to one another?
Is it possible that my 4WD being unplugged for a week or so of driving could have caused an issue in the transfer case?
Is it possible that if the 4WD was 'unplugged' the AWD may have also been disengaged and as a result caused an issue in the transfer case?
Is it likely that its just normal wear on two closely related systems and I should just suck it up and get it fixed?
My wife informed me about a noise coming from the chassis of her truck.
2007 Explorer XLT 4x4, 4.0 OHV, AT, 89,000 miles on the odometer.
We took the truck to dinner last night so I could investigate the problem. This occurs while only making left hand turns at slow speed.
There is a definite clunk sound AND feel. It actually sounds and feels like we are driving over a loose manhole cover, and IT DOES feel like metal to metal contact on the driverʻs sids of the truck.
I have a 2005 Ford Explorer. Every time I start my car and it has been off for more than a couple of hours it makes a clicking noise that goes away as the car warms up. This happened once last fall and I took the car in for an oil change and the noise got much better then completely stopped. It just came back within the last couple of weeks, but I just had an oil change about a month ago. I checked the oil and it's not low. The noise was going away after less than a minute, but now it has started lasting more like five minutes (depending on how long it takes me to get on the freeway). By the time I arrive to work the car is quiet.
I keep reading that this probably has something to do with the lifters. Some people say that it might be engine sludge, etc and that a cleaning agent might be useful. Other people say that cleaning agents might be harmful. Someone told me I just need to get my lifters replaced. That's an expensive repair. I am just not sure what to do and I am afraid that just taking it to my mechanic will lead to getting new lifters whether completely necessary or not and I can't really afford it.
Asking on behalf of the woman who picks up my kids from school and drops them off at after school care. She has 2005 explorer and says the brakes are making noise while she is rolling. noise stops when brake is applied. she thinks it is coming from the front. I said I would check it out. I've owned a few trucks but never messed with an explorer.
View 1 RepliesBought a 2005 FX4 recently, 107k miles, engine and transmission working smooth and quiet. Changed oil in engine, transmission, transfer case and rear axle, filter in engine and transmission, the oil I drained still looked pretty good.
At take-off or when going slowly the truck sometimes makes a really weird creaking/scratching/rattling noise. It appears to come from underneath the truck, I only can hear it when driving close to a building or taking off besides another vehicle with windows down (noise is reflected by building or other vehicle). There is no jerk, the truck drives normal but the noise is really weird (and alarming?). Where to look?
I have an 08 explorer 4x4 with 90k. I have a front end grinding noise. Noise is loudest at lower speeds and doesn't change with braking or turning. I have read that tires could cause this. I have the spare tire and rim on the front at the moment until I can afford a new tire. My other tires are all pretty new... And the spare is a different size rim but a brand new different brand tire. I'm going to check for play in the bearings tonight and maybe swap the spare to the rear .
View 4 Replies2005 Sport Trac 4x4... So, my fiance purchased this new off the floor before i met her (or else she wouldn't have bought it). Had a motor issue which required a new motor after 90k miles.. Anyways, while driving on a normal road, i dropped the rear window and hear this whining noise. Checked the transmission fluid and it was a little low, nothing major. Topped it off with Mercon V... No effect. Where do i look next. It does not have a tow package. Do i check the transfer case, or rear differential?.I am thinking differential because the transfer case is more upfront to where the noise is. you cant hear it with front windows down. Only the rear sliding window or rear passenger's windows.
View 9 RepliesDealer replaced rack,twice. Still thumping,they installed new struts and 4 sway bar links and bushings same thump still there. I unhooked swap bar links and tied them to brake line and backed it out is my shop and thump is still there and sounds like both sides. This van has 56,000 miles on it and the ball joints and control arms feel and look tight. Is there anything about how frame mounts that might cause this?
View 2 RepliesNeed to diagnostic the noise coming from my Echo 2005? 70K miles. I took to the dealer twice and spend a total of 500$ but the noise still there. The dealer changed the drive belt , new brake pad and clean the rear drum and adjustment. The noise occurred at start up and sometime at low speed below 10mph. The noise increase then stops after 6 second. [URL] .....
View 10 RepliesI'm sensing a light steering wheel shaking when reaching 70mph. Also during the process of increasing the speed from 25-30mph and above I can hear a sort of beating noise which becomes more consistent when increasing the speed. Car goes straight (no left - right wandering). Now I'm assuming it may be something related with the bearings, but I guess the only way to find out is by sending it to a repair shop to understand if the noise come from one or two bearings and from front or the rear bearings?!
View 2 RepliesWorking on a friend's Explorer. The car idles fine, but once he starts driving and gets to about 35 mph, second or third gear, the car loses power and eventually dies. MAF sensor replaced, no change.
View 2 RepliesI'm not familiar with my ford truck as yet. What are the happy shift points in rpm or speed? The old VW transporter manual actually listed it. The VW wanted to shift around 2500rpm. The Explorer Looks like
10mph into 2nd
20 mph into 3rd
35 mph into 4th
Its running 3000 rpm at 75mph in 4th
Have not figured out where to go to OD. Seems to have more ooomph at lower rpm than most cars I've had. Why isn't there a red line or light on the tach? What is the higher safe rpms you can use for hills for example? Am I close?
I have tried playing with screw that controls throttle plate it does work at first allowing to reach 1200 rpm at idle however after stopping car and starting again it does go down to ~600rpm again like computer adjusts it back to desired level. There's also **** on Idle valve however turning it does nothing.
Is there way to reprogram computer to make 1200 a desired RPM?
Like try this yourself reach about 1200 rpm and then hold your leg still not looking at the rpm your once you hold it for a while it goes down to normal rpm, only way to hold constant 1200 RPM is to play with gas pedal.
I want to raise RPM to avoid misfire.
I have a high speed vibration from 58+ ... 4x4 drivers rear cvjoint bad? The U joints are good, I had the Diff rebuilt due to bad bearing about 1000 miles ago. I guessing its the Cv joint do to grease is all over around the joint. How does one check the cv joint?
View 1 Replies96 Ford Explorer, 78,000 miles After about an hour on the highway (60 mph), the vehicle slows and cannot increase in speed. It does this until it slows to less that 20 mph. Pushing on the accelerator increases the rpm, but does not result in an increase in speed. It only does this after an hour or more on the highway (city driving does not cause the problem). No one can diagnose the problem; already took the vehicle to the dealership and a transmission specialist (both said nothing was wrong). Hoping very much to keep this vehicle.
View 6 RepliesI have a 1996 explorer that started making a high speed spinning sound when you let off the accelerator at 30 mph or above. If you put it neutral the spinning sound will go away, or if you press on the accelerator. I thought maybe the torque converter, but a transmission mechanic said probably not, I'm still not convinced. He thought maybe the transfer case.
View 14 Replies