Ford - Explorer :: 2006 - No DTCs / Hard Start / Rough Idle And Stalling
Nov 19, 2016
I'm a diesel mechanic and know my way around Powerstrokes, this 4.0 is not what I would usually work on, but I have a friend who has 2006 explorer 4.0L SOHC, someone told him he needed a motor with out explanation why, so I didn't want to see him get ripped off. The problem is it idles very rough, hard to start, and stalls. There's no DTCs , if you hold the accelerator slightly it will stay running, but once you let off it will either idle really bad and misfire or cut off, once pushing the accelerator the rpms raise very smoothly up til 3500 which is what I assume the rev limit is in nuetral.
I've done checks with focom and forscan, I was thinking possibly a bad fuel pump, while monitoring fuel pressure I see a range of 289 - 326 kpa with 26% fuel pump I guess duty cycle would be the correct term(once again I'm a diesel guy, and use to dealing with IPRs and Hpops) not sure if the desired fuel pressure is relevant on these but it always stays at 269kpa. I believe that equals out to 40-48psi while I believe this system is supposed to have somewhere in the range of 60 - 70, but I wouldn't expect to get a rough idle with no load with almost 50 psi of fuel pressure.
So with no DTCs Im baffled, and don't want to start wasting money just throwing parts at it. I've thought everything from fuel pressure sensor, to coil pack(replaced 4 months ago) to crank and cam sensors.
I did end up getting a code p106, but I believe this is because I didnt tighten the intake hose after checking the throttle bottle, I just slid it back on. out of the 4 days of testing first time I seen a code pop up besides unplugging some sensors here and there to make sure the pcm would actually register a dtc.
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My coworker is giving me a clean 2001 Santa Fe with 151000 miles. It was running fine then all of the sudden it lost power but was able to stutter home. I went to check it out it started fine but idled a little rough. When I revved the engine it rose to about 2500rpm and stuttered then stalled. Kind of like it was rich and choking out. It then had difficulty restarting.
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[URL] I even pulled the same P0170 code. And what I need to do before I spend a boatload of money and wind up sleeping in my car instead of driving it to work or lack therof is to start a troubleshooting list starting from where Sabot's update left off, i dont even know where the vacuum line is that he mentions and if i sprayed carb cleaner on it would i get a jump in engine RPM or a stall as a test?
What I have done: Cleaned MAF sensor, changed fuel filter.
What I have not done: Checked all vacuum lines, Tested fuel pressure, Tested for compression issues due to blown head gasket.
there is also a puffing noise coming from the exhaust side of the engine, im gonna grab a bottle of baby powder this afternoon and test for air leaks, i dont believe it is a misfire...
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Bought a used 2003 Explorer 4X4 that runs like crap.... All I know is it has new upper and lower radiator hoses, new battery, new brakes, 2 new tires and new belts... suspension seems great and body is nice too. It obviously needed a new radiator and complete exhaust, so I did those. Now it is running better ( I can actually get the RPMs over 1500) but still running rough and will stall if I let off the gas. It will surge and dip in RPMs. Very suspicious of vacuum leak.
Unplugged the MAFS and it roared upon start but within a minute started the sputtering etc. Currently pulled the IAC and check continuity between pins and it was 10 ohms so that passed but there is no continuity between either pin and the case. So this seems to indicate I need to replace the IAC which I will do tomorrow. I would love to find a diagram that displays the vacuum system so I can make a thorough check of it. Also seems to have an oil leak on drivers side valve cover gasket.
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I have a 2010 2-door accent, automatic. Today after driving about 45 minutes (engine warm), I stopped the car. When I tried to start again, it wouldn't turn over. Turned over on the third try; tachometer read at 0. Managed to drive home (35 miles), and the car did shift from gear to gear, but engine sounds tinny on idle. Turned off car at home and turned back on, still rough start and tinny idle but tachometer appears to be working again. No check engine light. At a loss; I've heard that there are a couple of crankshaft sensors that could do this, but I really don't know. Car is regularly serviced and has new belts (belts look fine), new strut plates, new tranny fluid, all about 6 weeks ago.
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After sitting engine cranks longer than it usually did before it starts. idles a little rough. engine light comes on after it been running about 30 sec for 1 min. after that seems to run fine.check codes po446 and p1633 always come up. if you let sit a bit with key on starts right up.replaced gas cap checked evap lines, and changed filter no luck. Did notice with lines off evap solenoid key off or on i can blow through it. that doesn't sound right.
Checked fuel pressure. key on jumps to 90psi then falls to 55psi and stays. turn off key and leaked off 10psi in 5 min.start engine while watching gauge does the same as when the key on except it falls to 30 to 35 psi and bounces between them. i think this is way low. What is the correct pressure? Shut off engine and drops to 20 in 5 min. Next I plugged line on test tee going to fuel rail and tested same results as key on. the convinced fuel pump was bad since regulator and check is there. replaced pump. problem still there.
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When I start the truck it hard to start and the idle is rough but when it warms up it seems to get better but still miss fires now and then so i was thinking could it be a bad O2 there is now "CEL" because the battery was dead (installed a new one) and the truck has not been on the road yet (want to get everything fixed first) and update on the door alarm will be working on that tomorrow almost forgot 2002 explorer 4.0L "E" for the vin 4 wheel drive 124k on it.
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What can cause my 99 explorer xlt to have a rough idle on initial start ups?(Its worse in the winter time) And sometime after driving places when i put it in park the truck will cut off. It has the 6 cylinder SOHC if that's useful.
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I have a 2005 Ford Explorer 4wd with 4.0 SOHC 6 cyl Flex Fuel. For months the vehicle has idle rough and increasingly becoming difficult to start. I decicded to replace the spark plugs and wires hoping to solve this issue! gap set to 052. When I started the vehicle it went into engine fail safe mode and wrench light came on. I then replaced the TPS on the throttle body and had no diference (I may have installed incorrectly! when I put it on the armature felt like it broke free inside the sensor). DTC codes read P0223, P2106, P2110 and with P0122 pending, P0223 pdg, P2106 pdg, & 2110 pdg.
With the old tps installed and wiring harness disconnected the truck will start in fail safe mode, but will not start at all with wire harness connected. A volt meter reads at computer end of wire plug 3.69 volts at pin one (gray/red wire +) and pin three (gray/white wire -) with key to on but not running.
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I have a 2005 Mazda 6. When it is cold - I start the vehicle & begin to drive. When I slow down and the RPMS get around 1000 - the car begins to run really rough & try to stall. If I put my foot on the gas - I can usually prevent it from stalling. The problem disappears once the car gets warm. The dealership recalibrated the PCM based on a Mazda Alert. However, it has not corrected the issue. Looking for thoughts on what could be causing this?
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SAAB 2007 9-3 - Recently my car has been having a rough idle and stalling on start up. It has been getting worse and I need it fixed ASAP for a long trip coming up. I cannot have this thing die on me while I'm 300 miles from home....
At stop lights the car will have a rough idle while in park and reverse. While in neutral, nothing. As soon as I accelerate, it goes away but does have a lack of power if I really push the pedal. Once I am in 3rd/4th gear, the car feels normal with no issues. If I am on the highway and slow down then need to accelerate, it goes back to losing power BUT if I change over to manual and downshift, car gains power and goes back to normal.
Here's what I have done so far:
1. Changed the spark plugs twice. Once with cheap ones, the second time with expensive ones. I also swapped out the boots.
2. Cleaned the MAP sensor
3. Cleaned intake sensor
4. Replaced air filter
5. Changed oil
6 New battery
The engines gives no codes whatsoever and I have taken it to a couple places and their readers don't see any codes. My SAAB has a built in fuel filter and this cannot be replaced unless you replaced the whole pump (to my understanding). I plan on buying some Seafoam today and see if that works. Also, I have been told to clean my air intake valve but I cannot get the damn tube off! I feel that if I yank and pull on it, it's going to damage the tube. I am not seeing any obvious leaks anywhere. One thing that is weird about my car, since I have bought it used a few years ago, my headlights/tail lights/blinkers go bad QUICKLY!
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I have a 2000 Explorer W/4.0 SOHC engine. With summer nearly over and fall on the way, I need to figure out what is going on with my engine. This problem has been going on for the past 2 years. As the outdoor temperatures get cooler, the harder it is to start and keep the engine running. This starts happening around 65 ambient temperature, and gets worse as the temps drop. By 30, I can barely keep the engine running.
Odd thing is, all I have to do if the engine starts is, keep my foot on the pedal to keep the engine around 2000RPM, put it in gear and start driving. After about a mile or two, the engine runs normally, and will do so the rest of the day. So far I have cleaned the air flow sensor, replaced the IAC, replaced all the injector "O" rings, and cussed a lot. I smoke tested the engine and the only vacuum leak is a very small one at the EGR valve.
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It is a 2006 Explorer with the 4.0 and around 89,000 on the odometer. Around a couple weeks or so ago the wife said the explorer was hard to start one evening and it has been like that ever since. It cranks for about 5 seconds and then fires. So far it has started every time since this issue began. This is really the first issue we have ever had other than the radiator replacement a few years ago.
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1995 Honda EX with 150,000 miles. Its been running rough ie rough idle, stalling at low rpms etc Additionally for awhile now when humidy reached north of 85% the car wont start. It cranks but rarely runs.
Took it to a mechanic last week for a tuneup. They replaced the Distributor cap, spark plug and wires and fuel filter. Car ran great for a day. Then progressively got worse. Was undriveable the other day stalling misfiring while at speed. Took it back today. They determined that it was still not getting spark and replaced the distributor. They did so, test drove it, declared it good and I came to pick it up. Paid the bill, walked out to the car and the damn thing would not start. Humidity was high.
Mechanic pulled a spark plug and put a tester in and didn't get a spark when cranking. He is assuming the distributor he just put in is bad. So they are keeping the car overnight to be fixed in the morning with a new distributor.
However I'm not convinced the dizzy is bad, I believe, as I've read that the Honda's ECU is probably bad and shorting out in the high humidity. Can a bad ECU would prevent spark?
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I have a 2001 F150 4.6L auto. This truck suddenly started running rough. Cleared all codes and re-scanned after starting truck. The codes are as follows; P0135, P0155, P0443, P0740, P0743, P0758, P1451, P1460, P1747, and P1760.
My question is; is it normal to have this many DTCs come up at once? Could my PCM be faulty causing this problem? Can you swap a pcm from the same year truck with the same options without reprogramming?
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My 2003 7.3 f250 has trouble starting whenever the temperature is less than 65 degrees. If it is less than 50 degrees I have to plug it in for it to start. Once it starts it runs rough. I let it warm up and it still runs rough. Once I start down the road I'll get on it a bit and it takes off like something lets loose. It then runs geat for the rest of the day but does seem to still crank a little more than it should when I restart it through out the day.
The pickup has 152000k
List of repairs I have done to the truck:
-new gpr
-new glow plugs
-new uvch both sides
-new valve cover gaskets
-new blue cps
-new fuel filter
-new batteries everstart maxx 65n
The truck has an afe air intake, straight exhaust, and a super chips tuner set on mileage saving. It blows white smoke when first started but clears up pretty quick.
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Rough idle I have had for little bit.Would stall out at idle or a stop, but fire right up? No one could figure it out with the stalling, but now its bad, started yesterday. Have white/blueish smoke sometimes, ( white smoke smells fuel) on restart after warmed when it dies, first time it took 25 mins to restart, now only takes 5 to 15 mins, when I step on it INCREDIBLE full power, fuel mileage gone to hell also since yesterday. Had full tank, now 1/2 tank.
No problems on cold start at all, no check light, 325,000 and never had this before.
Bad fuel?
ICP?
FICM?
Recent work, new turbo, ( turbo was original turbo installed when built) cooling line to waterpump, oil change, new fuel filters, front brakes and 2 new batteries.
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4.0 SOHC cranks once no start, then starts on second crank. 104K miles and used to idle very smooth, now mildly rough and sometimes upon stopping the rpms will dip down to almost stalling but not every time. Also just had the fuel pump replaced.
Also... Seafoam? Is this really as good as it sounds, I mean it can be used on anything, except cereal!
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Every time i stop for gas..my 01 santa fe is hard to start..it would take 4 to 5 start before she goes, then i have to keep the rpm up, bring her to idle..after that shes ok, till the next fill up.. the only way around this is to keep her running while gassing up..while filling up she run rough idle, some time engine shuts off..then its hard to start..
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Having trouble with my '00 Jetta 2.0 A/T w/ 98K miles. Had the water pump replaced @ a year ago (for the 2nd time, the 1st replacement died after <15K miles.) The car has had issues with rough idle when started, especially with a cold engine, since before the 2nd water pump. I've replaced the coil pack, thermostat, and coolant temperature sensor in the recent past in addition to the water pump & timing belt.
The gas mileage sucks, and when it's idling rough it doesn't "idle up", & will stall if the gas pedal is pressed with 30 secs. of starting. Otherwise it seems to run fine. The coolant temp. sensor was replaced after a CEL indicating it was bad. The CEL went off after it was replaced, but it's now throwing a P1296 Cooling System Malfunction. I have noticed the temperature gauge fluctuates instead of staying around the "middle" since the 2nd water pump replacement, and will run "colder" in colder weather. Since spring is here, the temp. gauge stays around "normal", or the middle.
Some research online says thermostat OR coolant temperature sensor. Since the gauge registers normal now, I'm leaning towards a bad temp. sensor...?
Does the hard start/rough idle and the cooling system malfunction CEL could be related?
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My 2004 Rubicon has been having some idling issues. It idles kind of rough (+- 200 RPM) and is hard to start. I tried to start it recently and after 4 cranks, it started then the CEL came on, and has been on ever since. I have recently moved from Washington state to Houston Texas, and the problem starterd here in Texas. I checked the code and am getting a P0505 code. I had a mechanic replace the IAC valve, Checked for vacuum leaks, and cleaned the throttle body. The mechanic says the output from the main computer appears to have burned out, and needs to replace the main computer(for $1000). The mechanic can clear the CEL, but after turning the jeep off then back on it reappears. The mechanic says he verified the computer was the problem by installing a known good computer and it cleared the problem. Does this sound right to you? If my computer is bad, wouldn't my whole operation be affected?
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