Ford - Explorer :: 2008 4.6 V8 Smoking At Startup
Jan 17, 2016
A few weeks back I had an issue with my transmission, while moving the vehicle I noticed white smoke when starting the engine that would go away after a couple seconds.
If I let the engine warm up, it starts smoking again, removing the radiator cap and it stops smoking. I have checked spark plugs, fuel injectors, cylinders for water, but cannot find water anywhere. No water is showing up in the oil either. The transmission repair is on hold (hoping to just replace solenoid pack) while I try to figure out the engine issue. But at this point I am not sure what could be causing the smoke.
It's white smoke, 4.6 v8 on a 2008 Explorer. Is it the head gasket? Or am I overlooking something?
View 5 Replies
Advertisement
I've got an '02 F150 with a 5.4L Triton. Despite being 10 yrs. old it's just passed the dealer warranty mileage about 80,000 miles. Due to a family situation it's been sitting idle for upwards of 2 or 3 weeks between startups.
When I do startup there's a puff of blue/geyish smoke, the engine idles rough for about 30 secs. and then everything smooths out and she runs normal.
I haven't noticed this issue before, I would add the temps here have been extremely cold the last few weeks. What direction do I point a mechanic in so he doesn't waste time or money on a diagnostic.
View 5 Replies
I have a 2008 6.4 powerstoke with 162,000 miles. It went into reduced engine power , so i had a sct x4 tuner with cold air intake and dpf delete installed. i just picked it up and it is smoking at initial start up. Is this somewhat normal...
View 1 Replies
My '06 Ford F-150, 4.6 V8 is smoking when I start it up occasionally. The smoke color is blue. The only mod is flowmaster exhaust. Bad injector, sticking valve......
Where would you start? I am all for supporting a local mechanic but financially I do not have the money to gamble. Once I can pinpoint the problem I will take it to them to fix.
View 5 Replies
05 2 wheel drive f150xl 4.2 l 135,000 miles. Smoking white out of exhaust. More at start up but doesn't go away. Turns a little blue. When parked at idle if I bring up the RPM's quick I will get a little puff of black in the white smoke. I can't smell or taste(when I touch my fingers to mouth) any anti freeze in the exhaust smoke but I live in Myrtle Beach and I have little if any anti freeze in the coolant. I flushed the motor, changed oil and filter and added a can of seafoam. I took the throttle body off and cleaned it. I also replaced the air filter because I went down a dirt road and hit a deep water hole. Dirt and mud got into the air filter and by passed it also. This was the reason for the engine flush also. I can't recall any smoke before this. Maybe a puff on start up from moisture not sure. Im going to buy a coil pack and plugs and start from there. I have never had this many codes.
P0174 Bank system 2 to lean P0300 random multipl Lean mil. Missfire detected P0305 random multiple Missfire detected cylinder 5 misfire P0306 cylinder 6 Missfire P0316 Missfire detected on start up first 1000 revolution
View 3 Replies
I have a 03 explorer 4.6 at cold start-up it wants to stall and it idles very bad just for maybe 5-6 seconds and then the idle picks up and it's fine. This only happens on cold start-ups, if I drive it and restart it's fine.
This started when I replaced the two front (up-stream) O2 sensors, I didn't need to change them just have 150,000+ mile and was trying to do something to get better mpg.
Do We should disconnect and reconnect the battery after replacing the O2 sensors on an 03? Reset the computer?
View 6 Replies
Went to a road course for the first time on Sunday. After about 10 laps the car started smoking bad from the exhaust. The smoke was thick and white. There were professional drivers present (driving school) as well as a lexus service manager there looking at the car after the run. The smoke was thick but without that sweet smell of coolant. This was the hardest the car has ever been run but also maintained normal oil and coolant temperatures. After a bit of resting the smoke cleared up and never came back, my drive home was 2 hours long and car still seems ok. Engine sounds good, oil very clean, what could it have been? I have no cats so its going to be more obvious than normal.
View 14 Replies
My truck starts right up, then immediately almost stalls or stalls completely. It also shakes a little when idling while its in Park. I just recently had my egr valve, pcv valve, spark plugs&wires, and fuel filter replaced. it has 104,000 miles on it. What could be causing it to do this?
View 9 Replies
A warm startup on my 2007 Explorer causes an RPM spike and subsequent stall (half of the time) on the way back down. I've tried a fuel additive, Ford ran codes with no problems...
View 6 Replies
I have replaced the cam phasers, tensors chains and guides 5.4 3 valve. Runs great no noise for 1,1/2 months but after it sit over night on first start up it makes all kind of noise for a few seconds then it is quiet so what would you do change the motor it has 134000 miles. I already have 800 in parts and 1000 in labor fix or replace if i replace what motor would you go with 5.4 2 valve are 4.6 which one will i need to buy vin is 1ftpw12574kd57164 the motor in it right now has 5w20 oil with the recommended motorcraft filter sounds like the chain tensors are losing pressure over night and that is the noise at first start up....
View 14 Replies
Sounds like a rod knock on startup but quiets after idle down. what gives and can this be a big problem? 75000 mi.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2004 F150 with 195,000mi. For the last several moths the truck has had a rattle on startup, some days it is barely noticable and only on cold starts, other days it is loud and occurs on every startup. The truck was most recently serviced at the Ford dealer and is filled with Motorcraft 5w-20 syn blend and Motorcraft filter Every change before was either Motorcraft syn blend or Penzoil Platinum (I have always used Motorcraft filters on it) and the noise continued after oil changes so I don't think the drain back valve is the issue. I replaced the cam phasers, timing chains, chain tensioners, and guides about 15,000 miles (2 years) ago and the vct solenoids shortly after that. Here is an audio clip of the noise (I know the truck also has an exhaust manifold leak, I plan on replacing the manifold while im working on it
Is this noise the lash adjusters or have the cam phasers failed again (they were dorman parts)? If it is the lash adjusters, can they be replaced without removing the cams? will failed adjusters be obviously damaged? Should I also replace the cam followers? do i need to replace all 24 at once or can i safely replace only damaged ones or maybe just 1 bank (noise seems to only be coming from the pass side)?
View 11 Replies
I have a loud tapping noise in my 07 5.4 triton. when its really cold on the first start up I cant here the noise but when it gets warm its tap tap tap again.
View 4 Replies
We've got a 2006 F150 with a 5.4 in it. One of the new kids was told to change the spark plugs, then when I went to start the truck the next day it was missing bad. Plugged in the Ford IDS, number 7 cylinder is dead. Only codes are for that cylinder misfire, and random miss on startup. So, I double checked the kids work and it was all fine. Tried putting a new plug in, didn't work. Moved the coil to a different cylinder to see if the miss would jump, stayed on number 7.
Used a noid light to verify COP harness was working, and it was. Put a new coil on it anyway since I had one, still missing. Used noid light to verify signal going to injector for the cylinder. Signal was good, replaced the injector for the cylinder. Still misfiring. Ran a compression test and the cylinder has good compression. The threads for the plug are fine, not cross threaded or torn out. The only thing I can think is that the PCM has gone bad in a way that its firing the injector/COP, but doing so at the wrong time some how.
Every other cylinder is running fine, O2 sensors fine. PCM isn't trimming anything back to account for anything, and if it was it would do it to multiple cylinders to keep the engine balanced. Cant think of any more tests, and I don't believe there is anyway that the airflow could be restricted to only 1 cylinder, but I could be wrong. Wanna try and solve this to keep from sending it to the dealer.
View 6 Replies
A little background. I bought the 2008 F250 XL, 5.4L with 145,000 miles in December. It had a bad engine (dropped valve). I had the engine replaced with a remanufactured one (Performance Products) and started driving it this month. To date, I have put about 700 miles on it with an oil/filter change at 500.
So, here is the newest problem. Yesterday I finished changing my body mount bushings (with Daystar polyurethane ones) and went for a test drive. When I started the engine, a smoke cloud caught my eye. I took a closer look and noticed it was a gray smoke. I jumped out and ran around to smell the smoke - it had a gas smell. I did not test for smoke after my test drive.
So here is my question. It is obviously burning excess fuel on startup. That would mean that one or more injectors are leaking down after shutdown, correct? Testing this would be done by performing a leakdown test? How do I go about doing this WITHOUT any special equipment?
View 10 Replies
Today I decided to do some maintenance on the truck as it needed an oil change and some other unrelated misc stuff.
1. I seafoamed the engine thoroughly. I bought two cans of this stuff, half of a can went into the fuel, another half can in through the brake booster vacuum hose, and I dumped a full can of into the oil. Took it for a 30 minute drive, let the ol' gal smoke as it usually does on a seafoam, and then changed the oil. No noises, I noticed immediately improvement in acceleration.
2. Upon intial startup after the oil change, I thought the motor was coming apart. It was only for about two seconds, (i was counting to make sure) if it didn't have oil pressure and no noise by 3, I was shutting it off. It hasn't done it since.
Is it possible I just knocked some crap loose in the heads causing the oil drain a lot faster into the pan than I expected? I'll try it again in a few hours after everything has cooled off and oil has drained back into the pan, but I wanna make sure I didn't damage anything. Still drives good, no problems, no noises since.
The last oil change I did, I didn't do a Seafoam, but I figured with winter coming it's a good idea to get her running in top form. I used Pennzoil Platinum 5w20, with a Motorcraft oil filter for those wondering.
Truck has 133K on the clock, and it's had the slight cam phaser tick since I've purchased it, no other problems. I bought it almost a year ago.
View 3 Replies
I'm having a problem with my wife's '08 Explorer, 4.6L, 4x4. Recently she started getting a weird vibration while driving. I took it out and noticed the following: The vibration sounds and feels like you are driving over rumble-strips. It doesn't increase or decrease with speed. You can't feel it in the steering or brakes. It goes for 2 seconds, stops , 2 seconds, and stops.
This will happen every 7-10 minutes while driving. It doesn't matter if it's under load, or just coasting. I did notice while it is happening that the tach jumps up about 200 rpm for a second and then back to normal. I've searched and found it could be a possible torque converter issue, or even a bad coil. Where to start looking?
View 7 Replies
I've got an 2008 explorer v6 2wd. it came in with mushy-no brake pedal. Since it is my bosses boss car my idiot boss diagnosed this with worn brakes. Tore it down and replaced calipers, pads and rotors against my better judgement. pads were worn and the rotors ok, the calipers are fine.
Ok now I cannot get this damn thing to firm up. I've suspected from the start it was the master cyl. Changed that this morning and power bled the system. Still no pedal.
Mitchell on demand gave me the procedure for manual and power bleeding along with bleeding the abs via the scan tool. Followed it to the T and still no pedal. The only thing I can't do is power bleed at the suggested 30-50lbs..the shop one only goes to 15-20lbs.
View 1 Replies
I went to school and parked at 8:00 AM. Came out at 1:00 in the afternoon and started the car. The crank was fine but for about one second the RPM dipped to around 300 before recovering to the normal 900-1000 RPM like that of a cold start. I replaced the alternator myself 1500 miles ago so I don't think that's it.
View 2 Replies
Why the headlights beam goes down and up upon startup of the car?
View 8 Replies
My husband had my tires replaced this week. I drive a 2008 Ford Explorer.The car has been running fine - no problems what so ever. Now there is a sound when I turn or go quite slowly. We live on a street that is 25mph so we go slowly to start. I hear the sound while going straight at slower speeds, but also when turning - almost at full lock. It is difficult to describe the sound - not grinding and not screeching. Its almost as if I turned the wheel too far. The sound when running straight is lower maybe rubbing. The sound seems to be coming from the right side of the car. I can also feel the sound, but it isn't a strong vibration. My husband drove the car and said he felt nothing (of course - just like TV repair man syndrome). All 4 tires were replaced. Hubby checked the nuts - says they were alright.
View 5 Replies
