Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1998 - 4.6L Won't Rev Anymore?
Dec 16, 2013
Just bough a '98 F150, 4.6L; drove it home and it ran great, lots of impressive power etc... Parked it my shop and getting it ready for safety check so I can register it. All I did was change the oil, oil filter and air filter.
Couple weeks have gone by, I went to start it and it does start & idles beautiful but it will not rev. I give it gas and it's like it's choking / wants to die. The signal lights are flashing super fast which I don't recall doing before. Battery wasn't holding charge so I installed a new one tonight; no difference. Alternator is good.
I have not checked the plugs yet because I don't think that would be the cause of an overnight change from running excellent to what it is now but I will check them.
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i have a 1997 f150 2wd and it has a 4.6 litre v8, it runs good but it seems to have no power when pulling a trailer anymore, it has 321,465 miles on it, original motor and transmission, it uses about a half a quart of oil every 2500 to 2800 miles between oil changes, the trailer i pull is just a small car trailer i have always pulled it with the truck, what could be causing it to lose power?
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So I was replacing thermostat in 98 lumina 3.1 and use the wrong bolt for the upper bolt on the housing and it broke where it mounts onto the block. Now the housing won't seal over thermostat and just spread coolant everywhere... Is there an easier and less expensive way of fixing or do I have to get a whole new motor?
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I am having a problem with my 1998 F150 4x4. The 4WD is not engaging. It is a manual shift. I have checked the transfer case by turning the drive shaft in 2WD it is free. When I shift into 4WD it is does not spin freely. So I believe that is OK. I have checked the vaccum diaphram. It will move the piston when I attach a hose and pull vacuum on the inboard hose barb. So I believe the diaphram it self is OK. I am not sure if the hoses and selenoids are OK. They look fine. However there is a constant vacuum on the inboard hose line (red/pink color) wether I am in 4WD or not. Is this OK? How can I check the selenoids. If all this is OK, the next thing I believ it could be is the shift fork in the differential. Is that a difficult job? Do you need to pull the whole axle out to replace it?
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I have a 98 f150 4wd with manual shift on floor (msof) and the 4wd will not engage. I've done research and I've learned quite a bit but still have an issue. In All the research I've done I have learned about
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I have a 98 f-150 4x4 the abs light is on and I can't link with scanner or seem to find anything wrong I don't have front abs just rear. I hate lights and I've checked everything I can think of.
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I have a 1998 F150 4.6 that has a misfire with no CEL. I have already tried the following: checked fuel pressure, change cam shaft sensors, changed coil, checked MAf seems ok, spark plugs and wires. On my scan tool it wont show any misfires when obviously its misfiring. When driving it will run good for about 10 seconds and then misses for about 10 seconds and it just keep going in this loop.
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1998 F150, XL, 4.6, auto 138k miles. Idles perfect, give it gas 1 time, fine. Second time it sputters. Third time it sounds awful but will Idle perfect. Put in drive, bucks, sputters, jumps, and damn near dies. Threw code P1747 EPC solenoid. Next day truck runs perfect check engine light goes out. Two weeks go by starts to sputter again and check engine light comes back on. Bad ECM?
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1998 F150 XLT 4x4 4.6L Auto.
Bought this truck two months ago, the lot had the engine rebuilt due to bad bearings, so fresh motor. They forgot to recharge the AC, so I had them charge it when I purchased it. It blew icy cold every things until a few weeks ago. It wouldn't work, then randomly it would, then it would quit, etc. Today it's 97 and I had it on with my kids in the truck, hot air.
I tried turning it off and on, still hot.
I tried seeing if the temperature was stuck and moved it to hot, it got sweltering hot, back to cold, just warm air. There is no difference between vent and max AC.
I went to the store, picked up a refrigerant filler with gauge and a can of R-134. I hooked it to the low end of the system and was surprised that my pressure was about 60PSI. Great, they over filled it at the dealership. I released the pressure down to 40psi and checked, sill hot. I figured maybe something was weird and they might have mixed good refrigerant with bad and that's why it was intermittent.
I released all the pressure down to 0 PSI. I then put on the can of R-134 and filled it to spec. Sill hot air. I removed the harness from the pressure switch and jumped it, getting sparks when I connect the wire, so it's connecting, but still hot air, probably not the switch.
What's going on here? Could they have over filled it and killed the system or something? What is likely broken here? My heater works like a champ, my AC just blows environment temperature air.
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Got myself into a tight situation with a truck I recently purchased and seeing if any of you have experienced the same thing or know what may be going on. I bought a 1998 F-150 with 213,000 miles and a 4.2 engine. When I test drove the truck it had a small chugging vibration, for lack of a better term, but the check engine light was not on and it seemed to run great while driving. No problem at highway speeds nor below.
On my way home the check engine light turned on which turned into a blinking check engine light and I knew I had been taken by a person with a diagnostic computer who cleared the codes. He made a comment about it turning on before but his "buddy" fixed the issue but I took his word because he seemed like a decent person.
I took it to a local shop and, if I remember correctly, error code 302 came up for misfire on cylinder #2. He changed the plugs and wires and it seemed to run a lot better. About 5 miles later on my way home the check engine light turned back on, but it still seemed to run smoothly by the time I got home.
The next day I took it back to him and this time we got the same error code plus (again going of my poor memory) error 174 which he said was cylinder #2 running lean. Earlier today he called and said he checked over everything and couldn't figure out anything wrong until he checked the compression. He said the other 5 cylinders were around 130 psi and cylinder #2 was at 75 psi.
Now this mechanic runs more of a brake and exhaust shop so his next statements are why I'm coming to all of you for your opinions.
He said the cylinder was shot and everything inside was shot including the piston, rings, and everything else associated with #2. (I don't think he got in there to really check it out) After scouring the forums I hear more people talk about the valves may not be sealing correctly and what sound to me, to be smaller issues than the entire #2 cylinder being toast.
I'm not sure if I am going to go after the person who sold it to me or not yet but I would like to see what others may think is going on before I light this guy up. I plan on taking it to a more proficient mechanic to do the work, if deemed worthy of work, but would like to kmow where I stand.
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ran fine the day before, fuelled up that night, next morning it did this. cleaned the IAC, tried a different TPS, cleaned mass air flow sensor. check vacuum lines. put couple bottles of gas line anti freeze in.
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'98 F150. the speedometer isn't working, all other gauges are. Where do I start ?
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My air conditioner fuse keeps burning out , one right after the other for about 5 or 6 fuses. Then it will not burn one for about 2 to 3 weeks , then it will repeat the process. What is wrong?
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My F150 at startup is reving real high, almost max rpm's, like the pedal is on the floor. What could be going on?
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I have a 98 F150 with a 5.4 auto 4X4. All four of the guages are on the left side of the instrument cluster. Neither one of the 4 work. The gas gauge, the amp meter, the oil pressure, and temp gauge work. the all four just stay all the way down. I've checked all the fuses and the sending units. ONly fuse position number 6 and 30 pertain to the cluster. I took the cluster out too make sure it was plugged in and it was. I know there is gas in it and I know the oil pump is working.
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How do you get to the oil pressure switch on a 1998 F150 4x4? I can see it over the top of the front axle but can't find any way to get my hand in to unplug the sensor wire. Do you have to unbolt and drop the axle down a couple of inches?
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My aunt has a 1998 F150 with the 4.6 V8. with only 40,000 miles.
Two years ago when she tried to leave work the truck would not start, it would crank over, but it would not start. She had the truck towed home and we figured out it was her fuel pump went bad. She did not have the money at the time to fix it, so she let it set and drover her nissan around.
I know after sitting for a few years the piston rings will stake (rust) to the cylinder walls. Usually take the plugs out, and pour in some oil, PB blaster,etc....and let it sit for a day or so, then turn the motor by hand to free it up.
Well She decided to get it fixed finally, and had it towed to the local ford dealer after sitting in her driveway for two years. Ford calls her later in the day and tells her the battery is dead and wont hold a charge, and the engine is siezed/locked up. They tell her it needs a brand new engine and could cost $5000. + after all is said and done.
She calls me asking what she should do. I told her BS! it only has 40,000 miles, and it does not need a new engine. It just needs to be broke free from sitting. I told her to have it towed to my house and I will fix it.
So today she had the tow truck bring it out to me. Tow truck driver tells me that ford said it has a bad fuel pump ( we knew) and that the motor has a spun main bearing in the motor..and asks me if I was going to rebuild the engine.
I tell him the story on the truck and he shook his head..and said yea..Ford is Full of it! I call my aunt and tell her what the tow truck driver told me, so she calls Ford..and asks what they did to the truck? Ford said, the truck has a dead battery, bad fuel pump and a spun bearing. She asked them how do they know it was a bearing?
Ford said they got the truck to run but the engine made a horrible noise like a bad /spun bearing inside.
I asked her, how did they get the truck to run with no gas/no fuel pressure if the fuel pump is out? The only way they could is with spraying Starting fluid ( ETHER) into the motor and fuel injection motors HATE that..they will run like total crap...
Bang, etc. because none of the sensors are working correctly..and makes the computer go OH CRAP. It's the end of the world!
If they (ford service) broke the motor free..I wonder how bad they did it. Did they FORCE it and break something internal ( bent a rod, wrist pin..)? I can't prove it, if they did.
So the truck is at my house and I am going to check it out. I am still going to pull the plugs and put oil inside, turn the motor by hand to make sure it is not locked up or messed up internally from them "working" on it.
I have never heard of a bearing going bad by just sitting. I have never worked on a 4.6 mod motor..and I know nothing about how good or bad they are... but I am soon to find out!
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Just bought 1998 F150 XLT and will probably have ongoing questions. Here's one....
Is there supposed to be a separate key for the factory tailgate lock? I tried the ignition/door key but it doesn't seem to work.
Either I am missing a key, the lock is jammed from lack of use, or I have a different tailgate than the original. Tailgate looks origin
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I have 1998 F150 has 305,000 miles on it and its my everyday car runs over a 105 miles a day. I have no oil leak not even a drop however it does burn oil but does not smoke I say about 3 quarts a month. I have been thinking about changing the engine and keeping it as my everyday use . My question how many more miles can I get out of it or should I just wait until she breaks down or change out engine and trany now. Its has the winsdor 4.6 engine. Also I will be changing the transmission as I never change transmission fluid!!
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My new to me 1998 F150XLT has a strange problem. The alarm seems to go off whenever it feels like it. Sitting in front of the house (3 times), on the ferry boat with me in the cab with the key in the ignition (once), at the store (once) and once at my nieces house. This all in the last 2 weeks. Shuts right off when you hit the reset button, well except on the boat, the remote would not work at all (no door locks, nothing), but then the guy next to me had the same issue with his remote for his Honda. Had to used the key in the door to shut it down. I suspect that was an radio interference issue with the ferry's diesel/electric drive system as soon as I got off the boat he remote worked again. Is there a sensitivity adjustment on it or what. The 1995 Explorer sits right next to the F150 at the house and it never does this.
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I have a 1998 F 150 extended cab and the brake pedal is low. The front calipers and rotors were replaced last year because the left front caliper froze on and smoked the pads. I also replaced the brake booster and master cylinder because the brake booster showed signs of leaking vacuum. The whole system has been bled completely twice. After each bleed, the pedal was high and firm.
I have not found any sign of leakage and the fluid level looks ok and unchanged. The rear brakes look ok, but no work on them in last few years. Mileage is 198k. I had to hit the brakes hard on a muddy road a few weeks ago and the truck stopped straight, so the ABS seems ok. The problem is that the pedal has dropped down a few inches from where it was then the system was bled out. What to check next?
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