I was driving my f150 with the AC on, it has a 4 position fan switch. Lo, 1 , 2, and Hi. The fan only works on Hi. I don't think its a fuse, so what are the possibilities ?
View 3 RepliesI got a 2000 F250 XLT that the AC fan only works on high. Same thing in heat mode. Is there a relay for the other speeds that I need to check out?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 F-150 XL with a 4.2 V-6, a 5 speed manual transmission and manual shift on the fly transfer case. The 4WD went out over a year ago. When it went out, I was driving at 65 MPH and heard what sounded like rapid relay chatter for several seconds (10 to 15 seconds) and it stopped. The sound seemed like it was coming from the dashboard area where the GEM is located, but may have been from the solenoids mounted on the engine compartment firewall. Actually could have been from both. When the 4WD tried to engage while driving at 65 MPH, the dash lights were flashing on and off and it sounded like the front differential was trying to engage. Of course I slowed down while this occurred to avoid damaging the truck should it succeeded to engage the front differential.
I have a Haynes manual but the wiring diagrams are some what ambiguous as my truck is not as common as those having ESOF. Even researching online I am not certain if the info pertains to my truck. The only diagram I found to be accurate is the vacuum control diagram. I believe I have either a wiring problem or the GEM is bad. When troubleshooting I like to isolate at the middle points to quickly eliminate one side or another when looking at a diagram/schematic.
Ford had a well-noted problem with the two solenoids that control the 4WD actuator and are mounted on the engine compartment firewall. So I started here, as this is a good halfway point and high failure area.Well, the solenoid power connectors had 12 volts on both connector pins (if I remember correctly as it was a year ago when I did some troubleshooting)regardless of transfer case shift position (2wd, 4wd high or low). I was able to manipulate the solenoids and verified they were operating, as I could feel and here the solenoids click when grounding the control side of the pin on each solenoid. I did check fuse 23 prior to checking the solenoids. Since 12 volts was present at the solenoids, it indicated power was getting to them.
So another common problem is the transfer case 4WDsensor. I removed, cleaned, and verified operation of the sensor. Reinstalled and check sensor state with transfer case in all 3 positions and it was working correctly. Also I have no 4WD indication on the dashboard when 4WD high or low is selected. Fuse 6 is good.
My main issue is not having confidence with the wiring diagrams I have found online. I am not sure if my truck has a MSOF relayor the transfer case 4WD sensor signal goes directly to the GEM.
I need to check:
1. Wiring from transfer case 4WD sensor to either GEM or MSOF relay, if there is a relay, will check it along with wiring to GEM,but don't believe it exists for my truck. (I need the wiring diagram to do this)
2. If the transfer case 4WD sensor output is getting to the GEM module, I would think the GEM module is bad. If possible, I would like to check the GEM module outputs to the solenoids, but since the GEM is buried behind the fuse panel, it probably is not feasible.
I plan to call the Ford service department in my area to determine what GEM I have and will buy a GEM online. Replacing the GEM does not look fun, so I have avoided it but wanted to be sure it was the problem.
So I want to know if I am tracking correctly and if there is anything else I should check, and would like the correct wiring diagram as indicated in item 1.
2000 F-150 Triton V-8, Super Cab, 2WD, ~170,000 miles, 4-wheel ABS (one speed sensor on each front wheel and one on the rear differential). The ABS light comes on a few minutes after driving. It seems to take a little bit longer for the light to come on when the weather is colder.
I used a Cen-Tech 60794 OBD II/CAN with ABS scan tool with key on, engine off, and the below sequence. No codes were detected. I then left the scanner connected but powered off and drove around until the ABS light came on. Pulled into a parking lot with engine running, powered up the scan tool and went through the following menu choices:
Diagnostics
ABS
Area - USA vehicles
Model - Ford
Although the tool's instruction manual has several more items that may or may not be required (VIN digits, model year, etc), the next thing I saw is a message indicating the scanner is linking with the vehicle computer. During that time the ABS light went out. Next on the scan tool display my choice was to read codes or erase codes. I selected "Read codes" and the display said there are no codes in the module.
I have a 2000 F-150 5.4. The lights will dim very momentarily and brighten right back up when driving under 2000 rpm. It is barely noticeable except on the small back roads at night. It is actual the most noticeable on the dome light. I replaced a failing alternator probably a month or so ago and I don't remember it before I replaced the alternator. What could be involved with the new part to cause the flicker. Could it be bad ground connection or what? I don't have any voltage readouts or anything. I can get those tomorrow.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2000 f150 lariat. Mo problem started about 2 weeks ago. Around town its fine but when I go over 50 mph it feels like I'm driving down the rumble strips on the highway and after a couple miles it just smooths out and its fine! Yesterday I went on the interstate and it did the same but this time I ran up to 85 and the vibration stopped.
I had another motor put in about 2 months ago, #4, and he changed my rear u joint as well. I replaced the rear passenger side wheel bearing a couple months ago but there seemed like a little play in the axle still but not bad. I've been to the dealer and a few other mechanics but it doesn't do it all the time and they couldn't find what is wrong.
2003 F 150. 5.4 motor. 4x4. 270,000 miles. Climate control.
The A/C is ice cold.. For the first 12-15 miles, and then it shuts off and is warm.
I had it recharged at the shop just to be sure. When it works, it blows out the vent at approx. 42 degrees.. nice and cold.
This problem happens every time. Turning the climate control off and then back on doesn't work.
Shutting the truck off and then back on doesn't work. Wait a while.. Not quite sure how long, but the next time I drive it, it will work again. For about 12-15 miles and then blows warm again.
A bit of funky , moist smell to it when it blows warm.. Typical A/C smell I think.. The box could prob use a cleaning.
The AC works, but just not well enough on a really hot day. On a day in the 90s I have to put it on Max AC and even then it does not cool down for a while and the air out of the vents is not ice cold.
So, it works, but I cannot tell if there is something wrong or not. I recently put in a can of AC Pro and it did not change anything.
My digital odometer is funky! Sometimes time it works sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes it works on start up than after a lil while it fades out.
View 7 RepliesSo my a/c works some times. I'll get in it in the morning, turn the a/c on. It works great, ice cold blowing hard. Then I'll turn the fan down from high and in a minute or so the cold air stops and it blows warm. Then for the rest of the day it wont blow cold air(i get in and out of my truck a dozen or so times through out the day turning the truck off each time). my dad has a freon pressure gauge. We checked it and it had good pressure. the blue gauge was at 50 and the red was a hundred and some i forget, but dad said "that's where it should be" so i guess that's not the problem. I am wondering if there is switch bad or a sensor. Its an '02 fx4 f150 4x4 140,000
View 1 RepliesGot an 01 f150 excab with the 5.4 as of lately sometimes when i turn the 1-4 blower control know it wont do anything on heat or ac than other times it will work like it supposes to?
View 2 Replies98 f150 4.2l imrc quits working after 30 secs or so. Valves are good,linkage is good, vacuum lines good, electric vacuum switch/valve on r/h side of intake good, power to that switch/valve is there, loosing ground from computer??? What tells the computer to operate these valves?
View 9 Replies2002 f150 7700 with 5.4 triton and 4r100 tranny started chugging under acceleration and now stalls when put in D, 2 or 1. park and neutral are fine and reverse works perfectly.
Now when I put it in drive it chugs and stalls immediately... 1/10 times it will keep running but chug violently like its running out of gas. will get worse and stall if you press the gas. i can light the tires up for a block in reverse however.
Changed coils 1 2 and 3, IAC, bank 1 knock sensor, camshaft position sensor
My 2001 f150 super crew, the heat only works on speeds 1-3. All 4 speeds blow air fine, I'm talking about the temperature. not the blower. Could it be the heat resistor?
View 4 Repliesmy turn signals only work with the steering wheel tilted all the way up. It works for me, but my wife drives the truck mostly because we live a mile from her work. The dealer said it was a "peanut connector." And can someone walk me through the steps to fixing it?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2000 F150 with 4.6l triton 125k miles. i have a bad miss ONLY between 1500 and 2000 rpm. This will happen in any gear and in neutral, but only between those rpm's. seems to happen more constant in warm weather. This miss is so bad it feels like the transmission is going to fall out. but since it does it in neutral i doubt tranny problems. things I've replaced: fuel filter, tranny fluid and filter, crankshaft pos. camshaft pos, TPI, MAF, spark plugs, Ignition coils ( all 8) cleaned throttle body ( found 1 EGR port clogged completely )..
I had a couple codes but nothing constant. Been working on this for about 1 year. Codes p0320 (ignition speed input error) p0262 (injector circuit high cylinder #1). my only question here is...... What would only make this dang engine miss between 1500 and 2000 rpm. motor runs perfect thru all other ranges. idle... high speed.. and even throttling through this bad range is ok.. but when stabilizing between 1500 and 2000 starts jerking and missing like no fuel and no fire. i have put in superchip program couple years ago and it ran fine for about 1 year, then this trouble started... I have put back to stock program but still trouble.
My hubby is working on a 2000 F150. The heater does not get hot. He has checked the blend door and it is functioning correctly. Is there a valve on the back of the engine that shuts the water off going to the heater core?
View 5 RepliesI am having a hell of a time getting this off. How to do it? Its a 02 f150 xlt with a 4.2 v6...
View 11 RepliesMy 2000 f150's 4x4 won't work, it has esotf, I have replaced everything I can think of, when I turn it to 4hi and 4 low i get nothing, no clicks no dash lights. I have replaced the gem, the switch, the relays, checked the fuses, i bench tested the motor it works, if i put 12v to the shift motor while on the t/c it engages to 4x4 (though I haven't driven it like that because I am not sure if its in 4hi 4 lo or in between the two) so that being said...
View 3 RepliesMy scenario: 2000 F150 4x4 Supercab 5.4L 161k miles. Codes on my scan are P0113 intake air temp sensor 1 circuit high. P0102 mass air flow volume low. P0305 cyl 5 misfire. P0307 cyl 7 misfire. The 1st code I'm unfamiliar with sensor location? 2Nd code i replaced air filter, removed MAF sensor for cleaning and it appears to have only 1 heating wire or filament. Shouldn't there be 2? Plugs were changed approx 15k ago however COP's were not. Should that be my first remedy for 305&307, new plugs and coils? Also what is next sensor in line between MAF and throttle body? Is that the sensor from code P0113?
View 3 RepliesWhen driving have five beeps from dash. Is this a dash fault code or abs code. and where can I find info on them. need to get rid of. Changed out complete engine a month ago. Running great beside this beeps. Almost forgot 4.6 auto 2wd extended cab long bed red and silver.
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