Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2000 - Wired Chewed Up - CEL With Code P1744?
May 1, 2015
I have a 2000 expedition with the 5.4L and a squirrel got under the hood and chewed up some wires that run to the pcm along with some vacuum lines. I got all the wires I seen spliced back together. I drove it yesterday for the first time and my check engine light came on. I pulled a p1744 a trans solenoid for torque converter lock up. The fluid isn't low and looks bright red on dipstick. It drives and shifts fine. Is there a certain wire from the pcm harness I need to look at first?
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After multiple problems with this vehicle already, it's about time that I made an account.
We have a 2003 Escape XLT with around 150k on it, and are now having transmission issues.
It's slipped some when cold and starting from a full stop and sometimes rolling stop, when trying to accelerate. Basically, it acts like it's in neutral until the gears "catch up". Once it's warmed up, it's fine even on steep hills. Also, going in reverse seems to act normally oddly enough.
We were hoping to get through winter as it was since it was easily manageable, but yesterday the O/D light started flashing and we have the pending error P1744. Nothing happened when the error came on including the normal slip since everything was warm at the time.
We'd of course, love to avoid completely replacing the tranny, but I'm mostly learning as I go with this one. Where to start narrowing out possibilities? The fluid was changed when we first got the escape about four years ago and is still at the right level and clear/red.
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2002 Ford Escape... My OD light started to come on every once in a while, and would go off once I turned the car off... This being said, as far as I could tell, the tranny was running smooth. Then an engine light popped on and this code and explanation come up... P1744 "Torque Converter Clutch System Stuck in OFF position".
I recently came back from a bit of a trip... and after shutting the car off, it didn't want to restart. Since this time, the car has begun to start, but the engine light remains on with the P1744 coming up...
Research seems to indicate that the problem is with the Torque Converter Solenoid. You Tube videos show that there are two solenoids just under the transmission pan...
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My friend has a 97 Aerostar swb panel van. It's a 3.o with an automatic, with the code of death P1744. For the price of a rebuild, he would rather put a manual trans in it. What trans will fit, and what needs to be done as far as electronics goes?
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I got this code and symptoms of 1-2 hard shift and no torque converter lockup. No flashing overdrive light on shifter. If I switch off engine all shifts are smooth until I pass 45mph. I would feel the TCC lockup. This doesn't happen the as i come to a stop I get a harsh 2-1 shift. Key off restart then shifts smoothly up and down provided I dont exceed the TCC lockup speed. This leads me to the TCC solenoid I think. Fluid has been changed regularly.
Had to drive 300 miles to get home. Only for the plate trans cooler the fluid would have overheated as on inclines on cruise control the engine would rev to 3k to keep the speed at 70mph and I could see the fluid temp increasing. Fuel consumption was very bad almost a full tank (with no ac). Doing some research there is talk about valve gasket blowout Epc solenoids etc, though these were for Rangers and Explorers, no real mention of Aerostar.
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2000 F150 V6 auto just bought it 140k. Check engine light on.. Code reader wont come on? has 2 lighter sockets in dash one on the left works right one dont? I hear one is inline with the code port? Checked 1 fuse #110? looked good...I don't have a manual so I"m lost.. or there are more fuses?
Also the speedo mileage sometimes will go blank? at start up then come back on ?? seems to be working even when blank? First I need to get the code reader port to put out..so i can see the codes....
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To start I was driving to work tonight and noticed the o/d "off" light flashing. it shifted hard one time then felt normal the rest of the way to work. At red lights the o/d light world turn off and about 3 minutes later it would flash again. When I got to work, I checked my code reader which gave me the p0705. I have searched around the net for about an hour and one thing i am seeing is that the fluid is "hot" or that there isn't enough. i have checked it and it looks slightly low like right above the add indication.
The only sound I here from under the truck is a rattle when in drive and at idle, but once I give it some gas it goes away. On they way home that night the o/d light was still flashing but it drove fine just at higher rpm, it down shifted hard one time but there were no other issues. I checked the fuses and they are all good.
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I recently replaced both the downstream O2 Sensors in my 2000 4.2L F150 because I was getting a P0136 (Bank1 Sensor 2) code that I couldn't get rid of by cleaning the connector or fixing wires. 110K miles. Calif truck. No other codes and has always passed smog test easily.
When I pulled the sensors, the Driver's side unit was extremely sooty, as compared to the passenger side (bank 1). The code failure was on bank 1.
Is this normal or is there some rich condition on the driver's side bank that I need to check into ? Originals were Bosch, replaced w/ Motorcraft, if that makes any diff. One on left is driver's side unit.
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2000 F-150 Triton V-8, Super Cab, 2WD, ~170,000 miles, 4-wheel ABS (one speed sensor on each front wheel and one on the rear differential). The ABS light comes on a few minutes after driving. It seems to take a little bit longer for the light to come on when the weather is colder.
I used a Cen-Tech 60794 OBD II/CAN with ABS scan tool with key on, engine off, and the below sequence. No codes were detected. I then left the scanner connected but powered off and drove around until the ABS light came on. Pulled into a parking lot with engine running, powered up the scan tool and went through the following menu choices:
Diagnostics
ABS
Area - USA vehicles
Model - Ford
Although the tool's instruction manual has several more items that may or may not be required (VIN digits, model year, etc), the next thing I saw is a message indicating the scanner is linking with the vehicle computer. During that time the ABS light went out. Next on the scan tool display my choice was to read codes or erase codes. I selected "Read codes" and the display said there are no codes in the module.
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My daughter returned from college with her 2000 f150 4.2 idling and running rough on acceleration. It is throwing a P0171 code only. I replaced the isolator bolts/plenum gaskets four years ago because of a P0171 & P0174 codes.
So far I have replaced the MAF, new PCV valve and elbow, checked all obvious lines for vacuum leaks (though I suspect a leak somewhere still). Also, a quick check of the plugs show some lean color/deposits on the drivers side only. Any thoughts or troubleshooting I should try next?
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I've got a 2000 f150 with a 5.4 and 135,000 miles. The other day it was driving fine then i stopped and got gas and after that it was boggy and running rough so i thought bad gas but i ran through that gas and got more at a different store. The cel came on i got it checked it was misfire cylinder 1 so i put new cop, spark plug, and injector. Unhooked the battery and then the light came back on so i ran the code and now im getting a p0171. I checked the pcv and sprayed around the intake and vacuum lines. I also checked the pcv hose and elbow in the back and i found nothing its a fairly new hose. So, it does run rough it shutters a lot.
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I have a 2000 f150 with 5.4 Triton with 165k miles. I did invest in a code reader. It started missing and code P0302 came up along with P0171. Put new coil on #2 and truck ran fine for a few days. Then it started to run rough again. Shaking, Idle rough, no power and CEL came on again. This time code P0171. I changed out fuel filter to no avail. My next step was to start looking for vacuum leaks. As I'm searching, All I am finding is trucks with this problem also get P0174 code. My question is since I am only getting lean on one bank does that pretty much eliminate things like MAF or the famous elbow vacuum leak and make something that only affects one bank like an O2 sensor on CAT more likely?
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I have a 2000 f150 with a 5.4 past few months it has been throwing a p1151 code meaning it is coming up lean on the driver side. I just changed the plugs and it didn't work, neither did changing the fuel and air filters. cant find any vacuum or exhaust leaks. Replaced a bad injector along with the spark plugs and its still coming up lean.
The truck also seems to bog down at about 50-60 mph if i let off the gas and coast it will drop about 300 rpms. It has me confused and annoyed, i have true duals with glass packs could that be causing it?
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I have a 2000 passat. I recently acquired the car and the previous owner installed a cone filter. While driving the filter got chewed up into the wheel well and breaking. The car was running Decent without a Mass air flow but would run rich and sputter obviously. I parked the car at my cousins and decided it would make it home without the sensor the next day.
I proceeded to drive the car home. On the way home the car shut off on the 2nd lane - I was able to get off with the metro courtesy towing. The car has not started since. I checked the following
- Timing belt - Still intact and does not look damaged
- Fuel - I removed the feeder hose from the fuel rail and turn the key and got a huge squirt so fuel is good
- Checked for spark - Pulled out a spark plug and placed it on my coil and grounded the plug on valve cover - NO SPARK WHATSOEVER
- I checked the number 1 wire on the coil for power.
- I used a test light for this (no Ohm meter )
Placed test light on number 1 pin and got a light that dimmed immediately ( seems weak? i would assume it would be high output for the spark plug .
I also tried to find the motronic Power supply Relay. I looked in the box where the ECU is located on the driver side and found 2 relays next to the ecu, a black one , and a grey one ( which one is the power supply replay?)
But the only things that can cause my problem are
-Cam Position sensor
-Power supply relay
-ECU
-Crank Sensor
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I have a 1999 mercury cougar and recently my acceleration has gone down huge, when i try to go onto a highway my car starts to chug, i have to push the pedal to the floor for it to actually start picking up speed a little faster, and once in a while i smell a sulfur smell!
Another symptom I have is my engine heat goes up 3/4 of the way when this happens! Also once in a while after driving while its hot the car starts to shake lightly then shakes a lot until i get off the highway and bring my speed from 110km/h to about 60k?
Engine codes: p1744
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I am wanting to wire my 03 f250 cargo (3rd brake light area) lights to come on when i put my truck in reverse.
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I have a 2000 F150 with 4.6l triton 125k miles. i have a bad miss ONLY between 1500 and 2000 rpm. This will happen in any gear and in neutral, but only between those rpm's. seems to happen more constant in warm weather. This miss is so bad it feels like the transmission is going to fall out. but since it does it in neutral i doubt tranny problems. things I've replaced: fuel filter, tranny fluid and filter, crankshaft pos. camshaft pos, TPI, MAF, spark plugs, Ignition coils ( all 8) cleaned throttle body ( found 1 EGR port clogged completely )..
I had a couple codes but nothing constant. Been working on this for about 1 year. Codes p0320 (ignition speed input error) p0262 (injector circuit high cylinder #1). my only question here is...... What would only make this dang engine miss between 1500 and 2000 rpm. motor runs perfect thru all other ranges. idle... high speed.. and even throttling through this bad range is ok.. but when stabilizing between 1500 and 2000 starts jerking and missing like no fuel and no fire. i have put in superchip program couple years ago and it ran fine for about 1 year, then this trouble started... I have put back to stock program but still trouble.
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I have a 03 F150 with a bi-fuel 5.4 engine an it has 195000 miles. I have had trouble for some time now with misfires. I bought the truck in october of 2011 with 125000 miles and replaced all the coils and spark plugs because it was misfiring badly will running on CNG. It was fine on gasoline and never had any codes. After I replaced the plugs and coils it ran fine on CNG and gasoline.
This summer 2013 it began missing badly at highway speeds only when running on CNG. If I accelerated the miss would go away until I was light on the throttle again.I checked the misfire count and found the bad cylinder and replaced a coil. Then a day later same thing on another cylinder. I swapped a coil from another cylinder and problem went away for a day. Eventually I chased the misfire around all the cylinders on the engine until I had ended up either replacing a spark plug or swapping a coil on all the cylinders. And I still had a misfire. It seemed to be worse on days with temperatures above 90 degrees. Eventually I got it to stop misfiring.
So now 5 months later I am back again with a misfire. This time it is misfiring on both gasoline and CNG and under any throttle conditions, except coasting. I have no codes. And the misfire monitor is sending me around the engine again. I have replaced a spark plug in two cylinders and swapped 4 coils.
I'm ready to buy all new coils, but I want to be sure that it is not a waste of money since the old ones only have 70000 miles on them.
Two days ago I had the misfire monitor saying #4 in the evening and the next day without me having done any work on it it was saying #6. Later that same day it said #7 and I still hadn't done anything other than drive the truck.
I checked the connections at the firewall on the drivers side with the three large plugs that are held in with a 10mm bolt, they looked fine, no corrosion or burnt pins. I checked the connection at the ACFM which also looks good. I will check the connection at the PCM in the next day or so.
Some other problems that may be contributing:
1. I occasionally get a U1262 code (scp fault)
2. Sometimes when I check the misfire monitor it only shows 7 cylinders, sometime 9 cylinders. I am using an Innova 3160 scanner.
3. I have either a leaking valve cover gasket or leaking head gasket, because I have oil dripping from the rear bottom corner of the passenger side cylinder head right above the exhaust pipe.
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I finally got my fog lights installed and wired up. They're not working at all, and I've checked all the fuses under the steering wheel. I'll get the multimeter out and checked the Wires them selves in the morning, but shorts that I don't know what to do. I can't find a good diagram of the fuse box either so I don't know which one to check exactly so I just checked them all.
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check engine light came on about 2 months ago had my mechanic pull the code po175 (bank 2 rich) because it was just bank 2 i decided to go after the 02 sensors. replaced them 2 weeks ago and had the code cleared. was fine until this past Sunday. shut the truck off to get gas and when restarted the light was on again. had the code pulled today and its po175 again. 1997 5.4 127xxx mi. stock except for a k&n filter and flo master muffler. i did a search but the 3 posts that popped up dealt with both banks being rich.
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Had to put a new tranny in my 1997 F150 XLT Lariat 4x4 5.4 liter engine about 3 weeks ago and now have gotten the check engine light. Took it to autozone and code 1450 was the only code listed. They said it was was a vacuum problem, but when I checked the code at a web site it is listed as a secondary air injector system circuit shot to B+.
My question is which is correct and how to repair?
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