Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2001 - Truck Stalls / Dies While Driving Down The Road
May 30, 2012
Got this truck used, it is a 2001 F150 4 door lariat 5.4, 4x4. It now has around 108k miles on it. The truck dies while driving down the road every couple weeks or so. It will restart after a minute or so and then seems to be fine. The ABS light is on, no codes or CE light.
The last couple months while your going down the road it revs up to 4k rpms or so while your driving like the OD is turning off. The other day it wouldn't start in the morning, I changed the fuel pump relay and it fired right up. I put the old relay back in and it still fired up!!!!
I decided to take it to the dealer today and on the way to town it shifted out of gear while driving at speed, the speedo turned off and the odometer turned off as well. I shifted to N and then back to D, nothing, I hit the OD button and it flashed but still no go so I coasted to a stop, truck was running at idle.
I turned it off, restarted and everything worked just fine again and went on my way to the dealer. Still no CE lights.
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I have 2001 F-150 with 4.6L. Truck runs fine until under load and runs fine until I slow down to a stop sign. Once truck sits for a few moments it fires up again and will run for a short while then will do it again. Each time i let it sit for a few minutes, it will start again.
I pull a small travel trailer and seems to happen more frequently when pulling or climbing hill, but not under full power, just when slowing down. Could this be cause of catalytic converters? MAF sensor, or fuel starving.
Check engine light is on, will codes identify if it is a plugged cat?
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The problem : I bought a 2004 Ranger truck and after two days it started to hiccup, or stall or die while driving, then because the truck is manual, just start up and keep running. It was the strangest thing.
I gave it to a shop, and after checking the electrical, the ignition, the fuel system, the drive train, and ten hours of troubleshooting, they came up without an answer. So they gave me the truck back.
Answer, a few days after taking it back:
I had told the shop that it had been sitting for 6 months, May till January, but when I told a mechanic friend a bit later, he still suggested 2 bottles of gas line antifreeze in the tank, before the next tank fill. I did that, and there was some improvement.
Next, When I replaced the balding tires with new Nokian Winter tires, the tire shop, (Kal Tire), told me that the air cleaner was incredibly dirty, and asked me if I would like them to replace it. I said yes, thinking that it might just do the trick, as no one in the forums I read, had mentioned it.
Success! No hiccup or stalling and it has not died since.
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I bought a 97 F150 4x4 from a guy who had left it to die after the tranny went out. I worked a good portion of the day getting the tranny out, but the truck has another issue. It was manufactured with a 4.6. PO blew her up and put in what he said was a used 5.4 with 88K miles on it. It idles really good and sounds great until you touch the accelerator. It nearly dies then rev's high. I put fluid in the tranny and it wouldn't move in forward but would in reverse. Same thing in gear. Touch the pedal and it nearly dies then revs high!
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I had what I was told was the breather (on the drivers side valve cover) snap off. I was able to place a piece of tubing In it and reconnect it. I had to change the #7 cylinder spark plug wire. Got a misfire code and found the wire was loose and corroded. Replaced wire and PVC valve.
My problem is, it seems not to be idling as fast as it was before this happened. The truck stalls out now in gear but not in park. 1997 F150 4.6 ....
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2003 F150 5.4l Super Crew. 40k miles. Current service.
About a year ago I ran out of gas on a hill, this is when my strange problem started. Since then I have ran out of gas at least two other times, but both times the tank was between 1/4 and 1/2 on the gauge and only took 8-10 gallons to fill up, so the tank was far from empty! Both times. after I put a gallon or two in, the truck started right up and ran fine. I have gone long trips and ran the tank down to near empty (light on not really empty) and the truck had no problems. But every now and then between 1/4 and 1/2 it just dies and will not start until I put a gallon or two in the tank.
So today, at about a half a tank, the truck dies. I call for the tow service and when the tow truck driver gets there I explain what has been going on. He jumps in the drivers seat and works his magic on the ignition. I don't know exactly what he did but he turned the key to on for like 10 seconds, removed the key, put it back in, turned it to AC.... and so on, obviously ran a clear code or something.... then he turns it over and it fires right up, this is without adding any fuel!
He said that there may have been an air bubble in the line when I ran out of gas before and the computer code needed to be cleared. Is the tow truck guy right? am i in the clear here or do i need to started checking fuel pressure, pumps, filters and so on?
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I have a 1997 Ford F-150 with the 4.6L auto trans 189,000 miles
Ok.. there was no problems until the other day when I unplugged the positive side of the battery to replace it's clamp. I Put the new one on and drove to the store but when I came to a stop, the rpm's dropped to 0 and the truck died. I restarted it and every time I would come to a stop it would die unless I give it a little gas also if I start the truck and leave it in park it idles fine until I give it some gas then let off.. the idle drops and dies! If I give it a little steady gas the idle will return to normal.
The check engine light works fine but never once lit up because of this problem! I used a code scanner and if the truck was off and the key forward, it would have no codes. With it running it had the code P0443. I found and replaced a blown fuse and still have the same problem but it reads no codes at anytime. I checked all the vacuum hoses and there seems to be no leaks and the mass airflow sensor looks clean. I have allot of miles but it has been taken care of well and has had a ton of parts replaced over the last few years.
I am wondering why this happened out of the blue and If there is something I am missing that I should be looking at. I don't want to replace the purge control valve if thats not the problem.
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If I don't keep in the throttle immediately after start up it will stall a lot of the time. It doesn't do this every time or if it sits for a while but if I drive it and then stop off at a store or something and then go to start it back up it gives me this problem. I notice it idles about 3-4k RPM's when I stop at a light or something too.
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I have a 2001 Ford Excursion Limited 7.3l with 199,980 miles on it.
It has a TS-6. My first problem is that when I come to a stop or slow down to a crawl then press the accelerator the engine stalls and dies. I have looked and looked at threads and can not find this example anywhere. There is no pressing the pedal and it remains at idle. It dies, shuts off, quiets. I have thought icp, tps, ivs
Second problem is that a/c is blowing hot. Other than being out of Freon, what could be other things to check. It does sometime go to default, but has done so in awhile. It does not blow cold in rear and hot in front. They both blow hot. I have replaced the pvh sensor.
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I have an 04 f150 fx4 with a 5.4 v8 and it has 125k miles on it. This morning I was driving to work and when I was going down the express way it cut out for about 2 seconds then power slowly came back after about 5 seconds, when it happens I'm either cruising or accelerating lightly. Also when it first cuts out, my headlights flicker, and when I got off the expressway and was almost to work the truck stalled completely after I stopped it started up and I was able to get to work.
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Like the title says my truck has been stalling while driving. Accelerating or cruising it dies for a second, two at the most, and then just keeps chugging along again.
I thought i'd fixed the problem last year when I did injector O-rings and 50 cented my UVCH. It hadn't done it since, until two days ago. Started out with a two good solid stalls while gently accelerating up hill. I had thought maybe my fuel pickup foot had finely given up the ghost because I was below a quarter tank. But I filled her up full, and then she did it again about 50 miles of driving later.
I didn't catch the first four stalls on my torque app, because I'd just recently decided to stop logging every trip, with the thinking that it had been half a year problem free, why keep logging waiting for something that isn't going to happen. I did catch the 5th stall on the torque log. But I'm having trouble trying to figure out where it happened in a 30 min log.
First question where would yall start in tracking this thing down? Next what data actually should be logged? I think I've got some extra stuff in my logs that isn't necessary, and is maybe bogging down the system. I get one data point per second resolution on my logs. Are there ways to improve the resolution, will getting rid of some PIDs work?
Lastly I need to attack this thing smartly, without throwing time and money at unneeded parts. I had surgery and I've been out of work for 3 months and I'm looking at another 6 before I'm making money again, and there is no unemployment for the self employed. Also I only get 3-4 light weight upright hours a day to work, exceed that and I'm back on the couch battling swelling for a week.
Also is there anything I can do while driving to "flag" the stalls so I can find them more easily in the logs?
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I have a 99 7.3 F250. It dies when I slow down for a turn or for a stop sign. At highway speed, it 'surges' sometimes, and makes he whole truck jump. Also, there is a small leak in the tube connected to the turbo. Has 250k miles ......
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My 02 F150 4.6 4x2 shuts off while driving - usually when I am coasting, but also at varied speeds, even highway speeds. The motor dies, the gauges all go to 0, and the odometer shows ------ I have to shift to N and coast...if I try to re-start it just turns over and over...gauges still all at 0.
I have determined that if I reach behind the fuse panel and wiggle the wiring harness, my gauges will come back and I will be able to re-start it.
I noticed yesterday, that after it did this and I got it re-started, the red 'Theft' light was blinking rapidly. A clue, perhaps?
I have tightened the 10mm bolt that holds the two wire bundles into the back of the cabin fuse box (by driver's door).
Where to start? I have crawled under the dash, looking for loose, chaffed or otherwise odd looking wire, but so far no good.
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I have a "56 thunderbird with a mid-60"s ford 390 engine w/ 4 bbl holley. I just had engine completely rebuilt and everything else is new: carb, distributor, electric fuel pump, fuel tank, etc.
Problem: car stalls and dies after a few minutes of driving. Generally restarts after waiting about a half hour, but not always. I have a fuel filter with clear bowl in fuel line just ahead of carb. The bowl is usually about 2/3 full of fuel, but general appears empty when the car stalls.
After waiting a while, the bowl refills and the car restarts.
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Truck in question is 2002 F150 4.6 with 150K miles. Crew was on interstate tonight driving 65 MPH and truck shut off. They called me out to trouble shoot. Engine had oil (was a quart low) and will not start. Starter engages but will not turn motor over. Had truck towed back to my shop. I removed belt just to see if it may be a locked up pulley i know, long shot)... it was not.
Employed called a shade tree mechanic he knows and trusts. He said was likely a broken timing chain and that is a common problem in 4.6. Said locked engine is probably because broken chain is wrapped around shaft. When I turn key fan does move about 1/4 inch.
1) Does this sound like a possibility or even a plausible explanation? Just trying to verify the information.
2) If this is the case, would a repair be advisable, or is engine likely shot and i should just replace it?
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I have a 1997 f-350 crew cab 4x4 w/ off road package and 7.5 fuel muncher power package. My engine stalls going down the road w/ no warning. Sometimes it will start back up immediately, and other times not until i cycle the ignition 6 times or so.it seems to be getting worse as time goes by. Since it started i replaced tps, cap, rotor, plugs and wires. I also replaced fuel tank and pump and filter about 1.5 years ago. Some other issues to clear up, but concerned w/ current problem.
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My wife and I own an 2003 2.7L Santa Fe 2WD with ~176K miles, for the past couple months we have been having several problems with this car, the biggest problem being that it will buck and jump while driving, and is now beginning to stall out. The stalling issue happens while driving at low speeds, while stopped in traffic, or while idling. The engine will rev slightly higher then stall out but will usually start right up afterwards. Only once that I know of, my wife has told me that it would not start right away.
I have read that the cause could be the CPS or fuel pressure regulator. Is there anyway, other than just swapping parts, to narrow down the culprit to the correct fix? The other problem we are having is the hard start after fueling up. I tested the Purge Valve by blowing into the hose, and determined it to be bad and will replacing it soon.
A little history on the car: I replaced the fuel pump and strainer last year, and a couple years we had 2 of the 3 catalytic converters fall apart and clogged the exhaust, so I knocked them out and have been driving with only one intact converter (rear exhaust manifold) since then. I know that isn't good for the O2 sensors, but we cannot afford to replace them at $300+ a piece.
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I have a 2002 Celica GT.
It was driving fine for a few months after buying it and now all of a sudden it will just die while driving down the road. It will start and idle fine for hours but after about 15 minutes of driving it down the road it will just die without any kind of notification. It will start back up and run again after I let it sit for 15-20 minutes but will do it all over again but if I try starting it right after it dies, it will start and immediately die again. The only codes it is reading is the #1 spark plug is misfiring, but it has been that way since I bought the car.
I was told to clean the O2 sensor and throttle body, which I did and it ran fine for a few days but is back to dying randomly.
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I just bought a 99 f150 it has 257000 miles on the truck, and a motor and transfer case from an '01 with 215000 miles. I'm not sure about the maintenance on the truck but when I'm on the highway the truck randomly stutters. I was thinking it was coming from the tranny because the tranny was overfilled by almost a quart but really not sure.
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My Truck : 1999 Ford F-150 Extended Cab 4x4 5.4L V8
So the other day I was driving the truck and it just dies on me. Tried starting but it just cranked and cranked. Got it pulled over to a parking lot and then tried to start and I got it to run again. Died a couple mins later uo the road and it will not start at all anymore. I got it towed to my driveway and I've started diagnosing some things.
I dropped the tank thinking it was a pump I replaced awhile back. The pump wasn't running but jumped to conclusions and took it back to the auto parts store. They bench tested and it works fine. I checked for voltage at the pump connector. NOTHING. So I'm not getting power to Fuel pump. Then I checked the fuse and relay for the fuel pump. Everything was okay.
I did some research and decided to check for spark. NO SPARK. Another thing I noticed the other day was that the odometer is displaying all dashes. So I'm really unsure on what to really troubleshoot. I am going back to the truck tomorrow to check a few other things. I'm not sure if the Theft light is blinking or not so I will check that tomorrow and get back to you.
What to check? Any other relays or fuses besides the fuel pump? What about any modules to check like PCM, GEM, etc. Or I've heard the crankshaft sensor could be an issue.
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So I just bought a 2001 F-150. It has the 4.6 v8 it's a 4x4 automatic. Sometimes i'll go to start it in park but nothing will happen. But if I put it in neutral. It'll start right up.
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