It's a farm truck, lumber getter trailer puller. Not driven often, after sitting for awhile the brakes seem to be pulsing in front like antilock, as if braking on ice. I checked both front caliper springs or plunger slides and they are free not froze up.
View 1 Replies97 RANGER EXTCAB 4 CYL 5 SPD---I have the PU, 2 cars, & a motorcycle. Only the pu has antilock brakes. #1 I don't like them. #2 I can't remember which one I am driving in an emergency, so I either lock the brakes or don't push hard enough, either way at times, I don't stop as well as I could. So, is there a way to "turn off" the antilock system so all vehicles (and stop) the same?
View 2 RepliesThe front brakes are pulsing (slightly, enough to spill my coffee when they line up together) with each rotation. I can't tell if they're warped, or if they have a rough patch on each disc.
View 9 RepliesMy 1998 Forester suddenly began pulsing / crunching sound, from the front brakes. I had just performed full brake inspection 2 weeks before. So I removed the ABS fuse (20 amp), and the problem disappeared. Of course the ABS light is also on now, but I can drive the car. I disconnected the 4 wheel sensors from the car harness, connected an oscilloscope to each, and spun the wheels pretty fast. I get 150 MV peak-to-peak from each sensor. Must I replace the "tone rings", or just wire-brush them? Replacing the rings are a BIG job, and the wheel bearings & seals must be replaced, since they don't survive pulling out the axles from the steering knuckle (front), or strut assembly (rear).
View 3 RepliesIn the winter, driving around downtown in Minneapolis can be very... interesting, to say the least. The usual 5 minute trip from the highway exit ramp to the parking garage can take an hour. But hey, it's a job. There's enough stop and go that I can't just put it in park, so I'm riding the brake for most of this hour.
It only happens a couple times a year, but every time we get weather, after about 45 minutes of this, my abs warning light comes on and my abs system stops working. (Finding that out was... unpleasant.)
I pull into the garage, leave my car for the shift, and it's fine on the drive home. Is this normal? What's happening?
I have 2002 f150 XL 4.6 L 2 wheel drive.Do i have rear discs?Need to change them not sure what to buy.
View 5 RepliesWhat would cause my front disc brakes not to work. I have replaced the master cylinder, calipers, hoses and pads. Backs work fine but I can not get good pressure to the front. 1993 f150 5.0 ..
View 1 RepliesI had both front brakes lock up on me the other day and burnt the shoes out so I replaced the pads and installed new calipers and flex lines. I also went ahead and replaced the rear shoes and both wheel cylinders since this truck had been sitting up for the past few years I figured why not. I flushed the system out but I can not get all the air out of the right rear wheel cylinder. My question is could the new wheel cylinder be bad? The new left cylinder blew out when I first started bleeding the right side. I could not get any pressure at all and I looked over and seen fluid pouring out the left side. I put the old one back on only due to time restraints. Should I replace the right side again as well? I have used up 4 1/2 bottles of 3e2 oz brake fluid and still have air in that side.
View 4 RepliesI got a 2002 f150, right now it has a 9.75 with disc brakes. But it exploded. I can only find a 9.75 with drums in the wrecking yard. Can I just swap my disc brakes on to the axle with drums?
View 1 RepliesSo when I got this truck everything on the brakes were messed up. So long story short I got a new master cylinder new pads and all lines are bled. Now this hole time my ABS light has been on so I looked at all the sensors and i found one connector that goes to the rear axle but it has no where to plug into. But I also found some writing on the axle which tells me that is a different axle and may not have had ABS set up. But I am not sure. Now the problem I am having is when I hit the breaks i don't have much bite but if i push on them harder the rear will lock up and the front brakes are biting just a little like 50% power. So how can I get more stopping power to the front pads ? And if its that unconnected sensor is there anyway i can loop in out of the system ?.
View 6 RepliesI have a 99 f150 4x4 that has done this twice, once last year and once this year during hot (90+) weather. I'll notice the vehicle seems like it doesn't want to go. Park overnight and it will work ok. Last time it happened the other day I stopped at wally world and both front wheels were real hot and I could smell the brakes. Came out hour later and when I pushed the brake pedal to put it in gear the pedal went to the floor.
Pumped up pedal and drove off but truck would barely move, drove 10 mph to a buddy of mines shop and it sat overnight and worked perfect the next day. He inspected everything and seems to think it might be the abs control unit. He noticed a small amount of fluid had come out of the unit and dripped on the ground. Also no abs light or brake light has ever come on
Bought a high mileage 99 f150 4x4 yesterday. In the process of cleaning her up, the water hose hit the disc brakes on the drivers side and it was hotter than a BBQ grill! Ok, immediately I thought this isn't good. Jacked her up and pulled the caliper. Pads were almost gone so replaced them with a new set, went for a drive. Now the damn things were smoking so bad I thought they were gonna catch fire! Sticky caliper , right? Stopped and got one then realized that the passenger side started doing it too.
Another trip for the other caliper and new pads because these were toast. I mean just burnt to hell. Before I started working on the truck again, I checked on here and I'll be darned if I didn't find out that the old brake hoses might be acting like a check valve because of rust and deterioration. Got a set of brakes hoses too. Put everything on this morning and works like a charm.
1999 4.6 XL
Passenger side done
Going down a steep loose gravel drive way, going maybe 5 miles per hour. About 50 feet before the stop sign we lightly applied the brakes and the front right wheel completely locked up. If we didn't turn into the grass we would of stopped in the middle of the busy street. We picked up speed when we applied the brakes, like we were on ice. When I got out, I could see the one long brake mark in the driveway. This happened on a paved road about 6 months ago, it had some loose gravel at the stop sign. I couldn't tell which wheel locked up at the time. This happened on snow in December to, twice. Since the ABS light never came on. Brake pads and rotors needed replacing about 9 months ago. Tires have been rotated, no change. Not sure what it could be. I disconnected the Abs fuse for now.
View 5 RepliesI just bought a 1998 F150 2wd with the 4.6L(no ABS) to be my beater home depot truck. The brakes barely functioned, so I replaced the front bearings, rotors, pads, and calipers. I bled the brakes exactly like I normally do. When I tried to move the truck, the rear tires spun with the front completely locked(also discovered the right rear line had a hole and crimped the line for a moment, but it was the tire that was spinning).
I searched and many people said that bad rubber lines cause the calipers to lockup. I loosened the bleed valves and the fronts were still locked(jacked up the truck and used a breaker bar on lug nuts trying to rotate each tire). I am guessing that it has to be master cylinder or the steel lines. Any tests I could do to narrow down this issue further?
I have a 2001 f150 4x4 5.4 Liter 72000 miles. There is a rubbing sound that is only audible when the brakes are applied. And only when applied with light pressure. The noise will continue intermittently until you come to a complete stop. If the brake is applied aggressively there is no sound at all. I am not sure if it is a brake issue or some thing in the front end that is flexing when slowing down.
View 3 RepliesOn a 1998 F150 2 wheel drive 4.6 250k, the front brakes will drag under a specific set of circumstances; only in prolonged stop and go traffic with hot ambient temps. Rotors, calipers, rear shoes, drums, fluid, bearings, seals have all been replaced. This occurs only a couple of times a year, otherwise the brakes work perfectly. It starts out as a slight shimmy that worsens until you can smell the pads cooking and the wheels are hotter than hell. The truck will hardly move at times. The rears are normal. After the truck cools for hours, no symptoms.
View 7 Replies2002 F150 4X4 7700
I'm trying to install front brake rotors and pads. I got the caliper off and the rotor bracket off. But i can't get the rotor off. The rotor is rusted in place.
I have sprayed liquid wrench and hammered the life out of the rotor from the front the back and in between. It will not budge. How the am i supposed to get this thing off???
I'm about to break out the torch but i don't want to fry the wheel bearings.
I bought my current truck this past December (2002 SCREW Lariat FX4) and recently had my first reason to engage 4WD. I noticed a rumbling noise at speed (35-40mph.) After searching this forum, I checked the heat shield near the front drive shaft, and it is not rubbing. Everything looks to be in good working order. The sound is coming from somewhere in the front driveline, not the transfer case, as it the sound continues after the t-case is switched to 2wd, before the center disconnect disengages.
Checked the front diff fluid and it is topped-off. The drive shaft has some significant surface rust, so it could be the u-joints, but it's a pretty straight shot from the t-case to the front diff, so I don't think the sound is coming from there. Where the noise is coming from? CV joints in the half shafts, perhaps? Truck has 106K miles on it, and is in immaculate condition. I doubt it's ever seen any serious 4WD duty, but it did spend it's first two years in the Detroit area, so it may have seen some winter highway use. My last truck was an '01 4x4, and it was always whisper quiet in 4WD.
I have a 1997 Explorer, AWD. On Sunday, the right front side started making a really loud, high-pitched squeal, which stops when I step on the brake. I had my mechanic check it, and my brakes are in fine shape (replaced by the same mechanic less than a year ago), so why is this happening?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 f150 5.4 with 3.55 limited slip... For months now every time I hit a bump with the front right side there is a loud bang (sounds like a wore out bushing), and if I am driving slow at an idle you can here a thump every time the wheel goes around. And when I turn all the way it sounds more like a grinding sound.... The noise is getting very bad, what it is. I am very mechanically inclined but cannot figure it out.
Everything in the front end seem tight. When I lay under it if I get someone to spin te wheel the thump sound sounds like its in the front dif, kinda echoes through the front drive shaft but u joints seem good. I really think it's in the dif, and I'm hoping the banging noise I hear when I hit bumps is the same problem as the noise when the wheels go around....
2002 Screw 4X4 with 5.4 ... Truck has 180K miles.
Howl / Growl noise we think from the front. Both front wheel bearings have been changed without improvement. A rotational issue as it only does it when moving and still does it if you put it in neutral and let it coast.
2 WD or 4 WD does not seem to make much difference. Been checking and testing everything without success. Drive shafts and u-joints are tight etc.
How to test it? It was my truck and is my son's truck now. They have run it on a hoist and tried to determine where the sound comes from. Going to try that again but it might be different when the wheels are not on the ground and there is no weight on things.