I have a 2002 f150 with the 5.4. Its got a rough idle and a bit hesitant on acceleration. Im wanting to replace the coils and plugs but what brand of coils should I use?
View 3 RepliesYesterday I decided to tune up my 2003 5.4 for the 1st time at 82k miles. I replaced all 8 coils with MSD coils & motorcraft plugs. After doing so I went to turn over the ignition & got 1 single click, motor wouldn't even turn over. Battery is 3 months. Truck ran just fine prior to tune up other than the slight misfire I was starting to get.
When I was working on the passenger side I did disconnect the big bracket that had the multiple wire harness on the fire wall underneath the starter solenoid to gain access to the rear plug/coil. Where to start troubleshooting? I checked the fuses under the hood & dash but nothing looked blown.
On a side note I remember when I was putting everything away I tried to lock the truck with the Ford factory transmitter & it wouldn't lock?! I had to open the door & press the power lock button to lock the doors.
I recently picked up a 2wd 2002 F-150 with a 4.2l V6 that has just over 300k miles. The CEL is on and I'm getting P1131, P1151, P0316, P0305 and an occasional P0301. It has a very distinct misfire from around 1,000 rpm and smooths out between 1,500 & 2,000 rpm, the idle rpm occasionally bounces (sometimes enough to stall), and the idle is sometimes rough.
I have replaced the plugs, wires, fuelfilter, and replaced a leaking PCV hose. As I have changed things the symptoms have improved some but they are still there. While capturing some livedata it kept going out of CL and into OL Fault. When it would the idle quality was crap and the miss was much more significant. I would have to put it into D hold the brake and run the RPM's up to just over 1k to get it back into CL.
After I got done with the data stream at idle, I set the parking brake held the foot brake and put the truck in D then ran the rpm's up to around 1,200 & held it there. The truck stayed in CL but it would cycle between misfiring for 5 - 10 seconds then clear up and run smooth for 20 ' 30 seconds, every time it cycled there was an audible click that could be heard. Also, the AC was off the whole time.
Live DataStream @ Idle: CL
CalculatedLoad Value - 12.9- 14.1%
EngineCoolant Temp - 103degrees C
Short TermFuel Trim B1 - 32.8%
Long TermFuel Trim B1 - 0.0%
Short TermFuel Trim B2 - 32.8%
Long TermFuel Trim B2 - 0.0%
Engine RPM - 816 . 846
[Code] .....
So I recently acquired a 2002 F-150 4x4 super crew with the 5.4 V-8. It idles rough (surging from 400 - 700 rpm) when cold, and sometimes dies, but more often then not it stays running. It runs and drives fine when the accelerator is pressed and when going down the road. When it gets up to operating temperature, and has been there for a while, it seems to idle fine 95% of the time. The codes I have are P0136 (bad circuit to O2 sensor), P1151 (HO2S detects lean mixture or something like that), and the infamous P0171 and P0174, which is lean exhaust/mixture on both banks. Now I have read extensively on the internet about these symptoms and have done the following:
Sprayed every vacuum hose with carb cleaner, and even around the intake manifold and injectors.
Considered the IAC (its new, the guy I bought it from replaced it a couple months ago) Torque app for android phone says vacuum is good. Cleaned the MAF and air temp. sensor with electrical cleaner Checked all of the vacuum hoses on the engine by pulling them off
Put grease around the fitting where the PVC valve attaches to the valve cover. Seemed to make it idle a lot better after messing with it, but I don't know if it was a result of the engine being fully warmed up, or my messing with the PVC.
What to try next? I'm close to just dissecting the top part of this engine and seeing what the intake manifold gasket looks like..or could it really be an 02 sensor?
I have a 2002 4.6L FX4. When I run the A/C for an extended period (say 15-20+ minutes), it will start to cough and sputter and eventually just die. It will restart but run rough and cough, sputter, die.
If I turn off A/C and let it set a while, it runs fine. No check engine light. Possible EGR problem????
My truck started to idle very rough. I pulled the codes and I got po308 and po316. First I changed plug #8, the electrode was nearly gone. I have never seen a plug in worse shape. Replaced that plug and fired it up, it still idled rough and threw the same codes. Next I moved the #8 coil pack to the #1 location and vice-versa, still the rough idle and same codes. Then I moved the #8 injector to the #1 location same results. Finally I tested compression in the #8 cylinder and it read 32psi ( not good) everything else read 150 to 160 psi. Squirted some oil into #8 and no difference in compression.The truck is a 2002 with 184,000 miles, it burns a quart of oil every couple weeks but still is in perfect shape. Should I bite the bullet and invest in a remanufactured engine for 2500.00? I put one in my 97 f 150 a few years ago with no problems.
View 5 RepliesMy '99 was running rough - coughing/spitting/sputtering when under a load - especially at lower idle/rpms and going up inclines.
Brought to mechanic and he put it on "the scope" which told him the #1 pack was bad. Replaced. Got it back and it ran better, but, then went back to the coughing/sputtering.
Replaced the spark plugs - OEM Motorcrafts. Seemed perfect for a wee bit, now I notice an occasional cough/spit but all in all not bad.
Curious: was it foolish to not replace ALL coil packs at time of plugs or is it ...acceptable to do just the plugs and then come back and do packs if needed.
2002 Toyota Camry
2.4 V4
My car has developed a rough idle when stopped and when accelerating. When I got the CEL, I had the codes read at Advance Auto.
The codes are P0301, P0302, P0303, P1349.
I have 130K miles on my Santa Fe. I just replaced the timing belt without the water pump being replaced. Picked it up from the mechanic and the check engine light was on and it was idling very rough. Left it there for him to recheck. He said maybe he didn't plug in the Cam Sensor all the way or at all. Next day he called me and said that the cam sensor was bad and he replaced it for free. Picked up the vehicle and the idle was a little rough but got worse on the ride home.
View 1 Replies2002 Hyundai Elantra GT 2.0L 140k miles
Symptoms:
- Intermittent rough idle when hot, slight shutter, surges between 700-800rmp
- Intermittent hesitation when accelerating, cylinder 2 misfire when hot and under load
- Misfires in all gears under load, mostly when under 2000rpm
- Code P0302 when scanned, no other codes
- Symptoms appeared suddenly, not gradually over time
What's been changed:
- Replaced spark plugs, little or no improvement. Old plugs looked worn, but generally in good shape with no significant deposits.
- Cleared code and swapped injectors between cylinders 1 and 2, after test drive P0302 code came back, so it seems that the injectors are good. If the injector were bad I would have expected the misfire to change from cylinder 2 to cylinder 1.
Inspection and Testing:
- Ignition System Testing
- Spark plug wires and primary coil are within specification.
- Secondary coil resistance is high on both packs. Could this be causing a problem with just cylinder 2? Is it worth replacing?
Spark Plug Wires: Specification: 5.6 Kohm/meter +- 20%Cylinder 1: 2.49 Kohm (Longest)Cylinder 2: 2.03 KohmCylinder 3: 1.64 KohmCylinder 4:1.36 Kohm (Shortest)
Primary Coil: Specification : 0.58ohms +- 10%Actual: .6 and .6
Secondary Coil: Specification: 12.2 Kohms +- 15%
Actual (Cold): 16.03K for Cylinder 2-3 pack and 15.94K for Cylinder 1-4 pack
Actual (Hot): 18.54K for Cylinder 2-3 pack and 18.44K for Cylinder 1-4 pack
Air/Fuel System Testing:Fuel system seems to check out. I do not believe the problem is fuel related. There are no obvious cracks or leaks on the intake manifold. A good spray of Carb cleaner all around the manifold causes no change in idle. I might try propane later. No obvious vacuum leaks.
Fuel Injector: Specification: 13.1-14.5 ohms
Actual: Cyl 1: 14.9, Cyl 2: 15.3, Cyl 3: 15.3, Cyl 4: 15.7
Compression Testing:Compression is not great, but within specification. Could the slightly lower compression in Cylinders 2 and 3 indicate a head gasket leak between those cylinders? Could this cause a misfire in Cylinder 2?
Dry Compression: Specification: 145-218psi, <15psi between cylinders
Actual: Cyl 1: 165, Cyl 2: 155, Cyl 3: 155, Cyl 4: 160
Oil/Coolant/Tailpipe:
- Oil looks normal, not brown or milky
- Coolant looks normal and is full, no signs of leaking (coolant has not been changed in a very long time, could a coolant flush work?)
- Exhaust looks and smells normal from tailpipe.
Sticking valve? How would I check this? Bad sensor somewhere? Doesn't a bad sensor usually throw a code?
I have a 1998 F150 4.6 2wd regular cab with 255,000 miles on it. Lately it has had some problems. The first is that it will run really rough when under a load, meaning when I step on the gas. It runs smooth at idle and at cruise but when I step on the accelerator it bogs way down and almost shuts off. I have changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires, coil packs and fuel filter. Now I'm thinking maybe fuel pump?
The other issue is that when the truck is having to work a little harder (i.e. pulling a trailer or running in the summer with the AC on) it will start to run hot. I have changed the thermostat, flushed the coolant, cleaned out the radiator, etc. and it still does it. Could both of my issues be related to a fuel problem??
I got a p0284 code and have some symptoms such as shaking while accelerating between 45 and 60 mph and a rough idle.
View 2 Replies I have 2002 4.2L F150 w/ Manual Transmission. The problem I have started about a week ago. I noticed it started to idle very rough and at times felt like it would almost stall if i didn't keep giving it some gas. Then a few days later it started to jerk/and buck intermittently while accelerating. I changed out the plugs and wires. My coil pack was replaced a year ago but was still under warranty so i installed a new one just in case. I cleaned and inspected the EGR valve and replaced the TPS. The rough idling seems to have cleared up but the jerking/and bucking still remains.
When the engine is cold the truck runs fine, and then as the engine starts to warm up it will jerk and buck while accelerating at any speed. Once the engine has reached its optimal temperature the jerking/bucking goes away and it runs smooth as silk. I can drive it for for a few hours with no issues whatsoever. As soon as the engine cools, the cycle starts all over again. I figured maybe the intake gaskets were on their last legs and when they heat up they seal tighter causing the engine to smooth out.
So I replaced the upper and lower plenum gaskets today and cleaned everything up. It still did not fix the problem.
I have a 97 F150 with the 4.6L and a 4x4 auto transmission that I got it on a trade. I was told the packs were shorted (he had a diagnostic write up as proof) so I replaced them and still no spark. It has the 4 plug packs. I checked every fuse and relay twice and the PCM and packs are getting power I also checked them with a multimeter and they're getting a 12v feed in the distribution box and the packs have 12v on the hot wire. There's something keeping it from firing the distribution wires and I'm kinda stumped. Also the MIL comes on and sometimes go off and I tried to scan tool it but it says it can't connect.
View 8 RepliesI changed my spark plugs now I got a miss and rough idle .#2 and 6 seem to be the ones that miss the idle don't change when I unplug the coil , I take coil off and put it next to the motor it sparks ! I put everything 3 plugs and got about 200 miles on them and 3 out of 8 had melt downs and left me on the side of the hwy. I got autolights in it now but it got a miss and rough idle ! Did I not do something right ?
View 7 RepliesI just acquired a 2003 with 5.4 L. Did all new plugs and coils, cleaned MAF sensor, changed air filter, oil, transfluid and filter (obviously not related).
Upon start up and idle the truck has is rough, enough that it will vibrate the whole truck SLIGHTLY. Once in gear and warm, it smooths out and is fine. Unit the next stop and start.
I got a 97 f150 4.2l from my neighbor. he takes good care of his vehicles. he sold it to me cuz it started to idle very rough like a misfire. it is hard to start when cold spits sputters and pops. once started idles like it wants to stall, then will idle normally then back to rough. back and forth like that. runs like a champ when going down the road . check engine light was on took it to auto store they checked codes . said bad o2 sensors so i changed them. still same issue. neighbor changed coil packs checked spark plugs and wire. every thing fires good. i changed iac. still didn't fix problem. could this be a bad egr valve or sensor? if so how can i diagnose this? he also thought was a clogged cat and bored it out. tight budget can't afford to take it to a mechanic. Was told spray carb cleaner spray around engine to check for leaks that did nothing at all...
View 14 RepliesI bought this truck used and when it's in drive the engine idles rough and seems about to stall when the ac is on at a stop sign or red light.. I've tried it w/o the ac on and it seems a little better but not as smooth. Idle in park is fine.
When I should start looking? Spark-plugs? spark plugs wires, disturber cap, fuel filter etc...
Replaced plugs and coils after I got a misfire on cylinder 2. (cheap made in china coil packs off of autoparts warehouse)
Also, plugs had 30k miles on them with original packs. Got it again.
Replaced coil on cylinder 2. Got it again.
Bought Denso double platinums. Got it again.
Moved coil packs around. Misfire on cylinder 4.
Checked plugs, good dry non corroded. Its always 2 or 4.. not 1 or 3
Slow drive with less than 30% gas pedal action it runs "ok". If I go uphill or need to step on it, not happening. Bucks like a mule.
I dont think its the fuel injector... Ordered the red audi packs off europaparts. Might need to check connections. what do i do?
I've been also reading that it could be the cam follower. I'm willing to check it and then force the dealer to fix it under the extended warranty, but if its broken I cant put it back in. The dealer is 50 miles from me.
It happened a morning I was out of gas and used .... regular! But did put in super right after that. I had spare regular gas in a container (fresh) for the generator.
Then used fuel additives. I have also been using fuel additives every other fill up just to protect injectors. I know it wont do anything other than that because of direct injection.
2000 Ford F150 1/2 ton 2x 5.4L... Last year, I started having a problem where when the temp dropped below 50 degrees outside, my F150 would idle really rough and sometimes stall out. The CEL came on and reported some codes that I don't remember but pointed to bad air/fuel mix. I consulted a friend and he suggested changing out the IAC. I did that just towards the end of the cold weather spell we were having and the engine ran great so I assumed it was fixed.
Well, the temps have been below 50 for 8 days now and ever since the temps dropped the problem has come back. I took it to AutoZone to have the codes read and they gave me the following:
P1151 - Lack of O2 switches -bank 2 sensor 1 : ECM could not adjust fuel trim because of a lean or rich condition
AND
P0171 - Fuel trim bank one condition : The powertrain control module uses the oxygen sensor to calculate the Air/Fuel ratio of the engine. The computer recognized a rich or lean condition on one engine bank only.
Both printouts that they gave me mentioned the following:
Poor fuel pressure
Bad or Malfunctioning MAF sensor - Dirty/defective
Oxygen sensor defective
Fuel injector problem - Leaking or fuel pressure high/low
Vacuum leak on engine
I again called my mechanic friend and he suggested cleaning the MAF and if that didn't work replacing the MAF. I cleaned it and the problem was better but still not fixed.
I have a 2000 F-150 5.4 L. I was driving from home and seconds after the engine went into a rough idle that wouldn't let me accelerate. I scanned it and gave me multiple transmission trouble codes, about 15. I checked the wiring, the transmission fluid and it all looked good. So, what could be the problem?
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