Driving a 2002 f150 5.4 liter, 4 wd. 128k miles. Recently started driving truck after sitting in garage for 12 months. Started getting codes 403,316,171 and 302 Changed plug and coil on cyl 2 for 302& 316Also egr valve, dose removed and cleaned throttle body. Drove 20 miles and all 4 codes came back.
View 1 Replies2002 F150 5.4 v8,,, I had troubles just over a month ago with a po305 code. i got the truck fixed with 2 new coils n some gaskets. I am having these po353 & po171 codes pop up now. The truck is running rough and I am curious to if its just another coil problem or if their is something I am overlooking or just don't know about?
View 1 RepliesThese are the code that keep spitting out. I have a 2002 f150 5.4L supercrewand it is running rough. I had this problem about 3 months back but i didnot get any codes from the computer i washed my truck a 1/2 day earlier, 2days later it went away. this time it has spit out 4 codes a po306/po307/po300/po316. the po307 and the po300 are gone, but the other two remain and it is still running rough 2days later. i had just washed my truck 30min. before, it started happening, is there water somewhere? My dad (long time mechanic) says use wire dry on the cops and it will go away. I have read other post on misfiring and I am still not sure what to do?
View 10 Replies2002 F150 - 5.4 ... So just bought this truck about a month an a half ago. No problems but the other day the SES came on. It is showing P0171 and P0174. And P0000 (almost forgot that one) was told that's generic though. Haven't really noticed a difference in the way it's running. Has been extremely cold here in WV but the only thing I can notice (or think I notice) is the gas mileage has gone down a little. After reading some on this forum I'm looking for a vacuum leak correct?
View 10 RepliesThis truck has been running fine then as my son was getting off the interstate it started acting like it was running out of gas then died. I went to tow him in and it cranked right up and never had another problem for a week. Yesterday he drove 80 miles away when the same thing happened shortly after he got off the interstate. He replaced the fuel filter which it probably needed but still won't start and stay running. It cranks right up the immediately dies.
First time this happened it was throwing codes PO171 and PO174. Now it is not showing any DTC's at all and none pending. We see no frayed or bad wires and all vacuum hoses seem fine. He cleaned the MAF with no change in behavior.... If it were an outboard motor or some kind of boat I'd say the problem is in the ignition switch except it does run a very short time before dying. If I immediately try to restart it won't stay running. If I let it sit for a while then it will run for about a half minute.
My truck started to idle very rough. I pulled the codes and I got po308 and po316. First I changed plug #8, the electrode was nearly gone. I have never seen a plug in worse shape. Replaced that plug and fired it up, it still idled rough and threw the same codes. Next I moved the #8 coil pack to the #1 location and vice-versa, still the rough idle and same codes. Then I moved the #8 injector to the #1 location same results. Finally I tested compression in the #8 cylinder and it read 32psi ( not good) everything else read 150 to 160 psi. Squirted some oil into #8 and no difference in compression.The truck is a 2002 with 184,000 miles, it burns a quart of oil every couple weeks but still is in perfect shape. Should I bite the bullet and invest in a remanufactured engine for 2500.00? I put one in my 97 f 150 a few years ago with no problems.
View 5 Replies1997 f 150 4x4 5.4 right now has a 145k miles.
About a year and half ago (120kmiles) the check engine light came on, checked the codes; 1 left bank to lean. 2 right bank to lean. Cleared the codes drove for about 3 weeks and the light came back on same codes, cleared the codes, drove for about 3 weeks and the light came back on, this continued with shorter times between the light coming on. Did this until sept 2012 took it in and Ford replaced the MAF, all good until today Jan.8, 2014. The light came on today I checked the codes 1 left bank to lean. 2 right bank to lean, cleared the codes today, the light staying off for right now. My best guess is that the MAF is again bad, my question is; how long does a MAF last, why would it fail in just over a year? What can I do to make the the MAF last longer.
The check engine light came on in my truck and while I suspected it was a misfire (driving along it will misfire like crazy at certain RPM). What I cannot figure out is exactly which coil is causing the problem. I get these codes:
P0306 - Cylinder 6 misfire --> Easy enough, cylinder 6
P0356 - Ignition Coil F Primary/Secondary Circuit --> Which cylinder is this?
P0356 - Ignition Coil G Primary/Secondary Circuit --> Which cylinder is this?
Assuming that cylinder 1 is the front left (when facing the vehicle) am I right in that cylinder 6 is the 2nd from front on the right (when facing the vehicle)? Would Ignition Coil F also be on cylinder 6? and therefore ignition coil G be cylinder 7?
The other code I am getting are both the same:
P1740 - Powertrain
P1740 - Powertrain - Transmission System Problems
I suspect these 2 are related to one another, the odd piece is it drives fine other than the misfire. Hoping to cure the misfire so that it drives smoothly and I can then figure out the P1740 code.
We sold a customer a 5.4l engine and he installed it and it idles just fine, but falls on its face when put under load. Truck is a 2001 f150 and is not around here. Cus gave me these codes:
P0135
P1130
P0174
P0308
P0351
P0352
P1131
From all I have found, it appears to be a lean condition and cop #1 and #2. All of these codes pop up all at once after r&r ing an engine? I am thinking bad intake gasket and possibly bad coils.
My scenario: 2000 F150 4x4 Supercab 5.4L 161k miles. Codes on my scan are P0113 intake air temp sensor 1 circuit high. P0102 mass air flow volume low. P0305 cyl 5 misfire. P0307 cyl 7 misfire. The 1st code I'm unfamiliar with sensor location? 2Nd code i replaced air filter, removed MAF sensor for cleaning and it appears to have only 1 heating wire or filament. Shouldn't there be 2? Plugs were changed approx 15k ago however COP's were not. Should that be my first remedy for 305&307, new plugs and coils? Also what is next sensor in line between MAF and throttle body? Is that the sensor from code P0113?
View 3 RepliesOk, did a quick search, found nothing. Is there a way to get CEL codes without a reader on '01 F150? I know the way on 80's stuff, is there on newer stuff?
View 2 RepliesTruck has been running rough and the check engine light was on so I decided to get the codes read and I got back P0302 and P0304, which from what I understand is a misfire on cylinders 3 & 4. At the same time I got Ford to do a little diagnostic and this is what they wrote for me:
"The connector for the number 2 coil is broken and will not stay plugged on to the coil and the number 2 coil is not working / replaced the wire for the coil still running rough removed the coil and plug. the plug was very badly fuel soaked started the vehicle to see if there was spark at the plug. OK. Suspect either a injector issue or a compression issue cleaned the plug seems better. "
So of course they quoted me for the works. They say I should replace the coils, plugs, and injectors???
I am pretty mechanically inclined and think I could change these things myself since I am on a budget. One tech told me is that the plugs can seize in these engines often and could scrap the whole thing??? Seems a little weird. If that happens though what could I do?
My 2003 F150 4.6 wouldn't pass emissions testing last week due to the OBDII not being ready to test. I knew that would happen as I had just reset the code (I get a CEL anytime after a heavy rain - I think it is a bad coil coming). After I reset and drive for a while, I don't get any codes and everything is ready but the EVAP.
I reset the computer on Friday. Let it sit overnight. Filled the gas tank Saturday. Sunday I drove a 200 mile round trip. Ran the cruise control at 60 for a good 50 miles. I did some local running around. All things that should have/could have triggered the EVAP system to run.
Where is the best place to start looking for problems? I changed the gas tank a couple years ago and I think everything is tight on it. Should I just change the gas cap in case it is the culprit?
I have a 1999 f150 4.2l that the abs light comes on going slow, under 25mph. Replaced speed sensor still there. Hook up my scan tool and get connection error. Only in abs mode. Check fuses and power point's. Scanner works on a buick fine.
View 7 RepliesJust put a cold air intake on my 99 f150 with a 4.6. its a CAI with a 4" tube and its not an oiled filter. there is NO vacuum leaks, the mass air flow sensor is clean. I am getting the codes 171 and 174 now and i know its from the intake because that's when it started running lean. Is there any way or anything i can adjust to fix this other than buying a 300 dollar programmer?? If I take it to a ford mechanic will he be able to fix this?
View 11 RepliesI have a 1977 f250 460 with c6. As far as I now everything is stock on the motor. The carb is a motorcraft but I cant see what model it is, there is a ID tag that I need to get the numbers off of so I can see what I have.
I don't know much about carbs so I'm trying to learn as I go, but what has me wondering about the secondaries is going up inclines. We have a canyon that is a decent grade and long, I was towing a empty flatbed trailer and with my foot all the way down could never get it above 40 mph it just felt like that was it. I have been out playing with no trailer and it feels like I can get them to open up when it down shifts, but cruising along at 55 and stomp it nothing.
I am worried about pulling our camp trailer with it and that is the main reason I got the truck with a 460. What to check?
My buds 2003 4.6 liter stalls every time he takes his foot off the pedal. Runs fine otherwise, no roughness or anything, you just have to keep your foot on the thing to keep it from dying out.
We checked for codes and found none. I checked vacuum connections and they looked OK.
Is there an easy way to test the IAC or should we just throw a new one in and cross our fingers? If we do change it out, does the truck need to be driven around a bit for the computer to re-learn anything?
The truck ran fine this morning and this afternoon I had trouble with the truck running at idle.
The idle is at about 450RPM in park. Runs smooth with no miss but if you bring the idle up and then let off quickly it stalls. Can stall while trying to idle at warm up also. Sometimes it will stall at a light but I think it is related to taking my foot off the pedal quickly.
There is no check engine light on and there are no codes. I have 138K on the engine now. Both air & fuel filter were replaced about a month ago as well as the PCV valve.
Ok, so this past week i towed my 72 f250 to IL from CA. 2100 Miles. 6100#s with the trailer. No problems at all. Got about 9 MPG too the whole way. Ok, so here is my problem now. As some of you may know, IL just got about a foot of snow. Its all slush at this point. I am living in the country right now so i drive thru alot of it. Ok, now you know the back story, today i drove the truck to my brothers house, put it in park and bam! check engine light came on. About a half hour later i drove it to AutoZone and had them check the codes. Here is what they pulled.
P0705
P0171
Need to know what to replace. I have to drive it back to CA in 4 days.
I got an 2001 f150 4.2l v6, 5speed. It started running real rough almost like it was hitting on only 3 cylinders I replaced the crank sensor and did a tune up on it along with a new coil pack and now it won't hit a lick the plugs are getting fire, it's getting fuel but, will not start it's not throwing any engine codes. Which leads me to believe it may have a bad ecm.
View 3 RepliesI will try to keep this short. Picked up a 2000 f-150 4.2 for my nephews first truck last night. Bought it blind against my better judgement, but the price was right. Got it home, odometer didn't work, fixed the solder joint and was happy it only had 132k on it. Heater core was plugged solid. Got it flushed and at least now its has luke warm heat until I have time for a full coolant flush and new core.
Next on my list is the high idle and engine lights. Its idles around 1300-1700, cold or hot sometimes it drops down. I only have a cheap scanner, but I have 2 codes. PO171 and PO174. Where should I start with diagnosing this? I would assume vacuum leak. Any common spots to check on these?