Have a 2001 F-150 with 4.6L. when i turn the key and pull it out the accessories stay on. What could be wrong and what can i do to fix so I don't have to keep disconnecting the battery?
View 9 Replies99 F 250LD 240k miles. I think I know the answer but hope I'm wrong. Started noticing the blower fan staying on when left in the panel position, even with key out. This morning I walked by my truck and noticed the radio on. Opened the door and the door chime started beeping. Is this a case of a leaky windshield and water running down the a-pillar and getting the GEM wet? Hope not but I think that's it. I haven't seen any water leaks yet. Could it be a stuck ignition relay? I've never heard of a relay staying open. Could it be a corroded fuse panel. i also heard a clicking coming from the area of the PCM recently but it stopped.
View 7 RepliesOkay, I've done a few topic searches and see some variations on this, but not this specific scenario. 2001 F-250 (5.4L, 4x4, auto). My daughter's truck and I wasn't home so this is the best info I have as relayed by her.
She turned the key off, the engine shut off, but all the "electrics" stayed on -- radio and a/c fan to be specific. She said that morning the truck had a dead battery so she got a jump start, leading one to suspect that the electrics stayed on the previous night as well. (?)
I had her disconnect the battery and let it sit until I got home. Of course, when I got home and reconnected the battery, everything works normally as it should. And has worked normally for a few days.
So.. any words of wisdom out there while we wait for "the next" occurrence?
My 98 F150 4WD with 83k on it has a significant pull to the right most noticeable on the highway. I have to keep the wheel turned to the left to be able to go straight. It use to be intermittent but now is constant. Had a frt end alignment done twice with no change. Recently after a long drive on the highway on a crazy hot day, I pulled into a rest area & noticed the L/F wheel was very hot to the point where I thought the plastic center cap might start melting.
The R/F wheel was only warm. This makes no sense to me because with something causing the L/F wheel to heat up I would think it would pull to the left. This has bothered me so much that I've driven with 10psi less in the L/F wheel hoping it wouldn't pull to the right so much but it had no effect. I did recently have the left upper control arm replaced because it was clunking. It was doing this pulling prior to that & it continues.
I have 97 f150 x-cab 4.6 auto 4x4. I'm gettin ready to pull motor & trans to rebuild both. I was wondering if I can pull both while still bolted together without having to remove the cab??? And what else will needed to be removed.
View 6 RepliesI recently purchased a f150 with a reg cab short bed 4.6 4x4, and when you put it in drive the it shifts up to second fine, but when goes to third just revs up doesnt pull at all. Have to shut o.d. off and goes steady but run 2500 rpms to go 40 mph. I was told to check the solenoids but i dont know, if i do need a new trans how do i identify my trans. I know it has the code "U" on the door sticker, but its an 4r70 w code-w. But the junk yard has a YL3P-FA and a YL3P-JA?
View 1 RepliesI just had my EGR valve and hose and DPFE sensor replaced and the truck is running better than it has in quite a while except that whenever I turn to the left and pull into a parking space it dies.
I've read that it could be a bad power steering pump. This would make sense because mine is pretty noisy when I make a left or right turn. However, it has never caused the engine to stall before. This didn't begin happening until immediately after the recent maintenance.
Is there something I should be looking for that my be related to the new EGR valve/hose or DPFE sensor?
Engine will start and run but will miss in a pull and die sometimes but will start back, we hooked it to a scanner and it said (intake wiring) it wasn't a dealer hook up just a gas station garage, we have already done plugs and wires.
View 2 RepliesFuel mileage is terrible also but the truck really has no power. Running down the highway it kicks down just to pull a small incline. Check engine light is not on and there is no hessitation. The truck has 105k on it and i have put only 5k of those miles on. I did pull a couple plugs and they are autolites so plugs must have been changed at some point. Does this sound like a coil problem?
View 5 RepliesMy truck is starting to shift strange. As it warms up and I'm in drive, it will shift between drive and 2nd by itself. When I pull up to a stop lite, it's like it's stuck in drive and doesn't downshift. Ultimately it dies. I've checked my fluid and its fine. Any ideas? Oh and my engine light is on. Can a parts store find the code for the issue I'm having?
View 1 RepliesYou arrive at your destination and you are in the middle of listening to a hot news item or a song on the radio. It may be a while before this may finish and so you want to SHUT OFF the engine only and stop idling, but don't want to shut the rest of the electronics off.
So, yes you can do this by turning the engine off and then pressing the start button without placing the foot on the brake paddle. But by then you have lost so much important information streaming down from the radio (as it shuts off when you stop the engine).
So I was wondering if there is a way to go from ENGINE ON mode to just ACCESSORIES only mode without 1st stopping engine, then pressing start button.
ran fine the day before, fuelled up that night, next morning it did this. cleaned the IAC, tried a different TPS, cleaned mass air flow sensor. check vacuum lines. put couple bottles of gas line anti freeze in.
[URL]
So, I know this question has been asked probably a million times. But I can't seem to find the exact information I need. I have a 2003 fx4 f-150 and just like everyone else. My 4x4 doesn't work. But, the deal with mine is that sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. It's a toss up. When it does go in however, it doesn't stay locked in. Sometimes it stays in for 10 seconds, sometimes 30 minutes. When the switch is turned to 4hi or 4low it doesn't always engage, only sometimes. Light on dash comes on every single time I matter what. Solenoids click as they should. Also, the a/c and heater was stuck in the vent only, recently went to defrost only.
View 5 RepliesGot a buddy with a 98 white f150 with the 5.4 motor. It will start up and idle fine but if you try to drive it it has no power what so ever. What it could be?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 Regular Cab Work Truck with non power split bench seat. The passenger side back will not hook in the up position.
Before diving into it. Is the mechanism broken or is it something I can fix if I tear it apart? There is nothing stuck under or behind that I can tell.
Just recently now the dash warning lights stay on or come back on shortly there after when the key is removed. I replaced the ignition switch. I can even leave the wiring to it disconnected with the same result. When the positive battery cable is removed and reconnected I can hear relay or relays clicking.
I pulled all one at a time next to the master cylinder in the two boxes. same result. I pulled all relays in the fuse box in the cab one at a time. no change.
Maybe related about a month ago the hvac fan stayed on. we had to turn that to the off position to remedy that. than it "fixed" itself. Starting points to check on this 4.6 with 361k on the clock 99% original....
Yesterday I changed two burned out light-bulbs in the a/c control panel. When I tested them after dark they worked as designed. An hour or so later my brother-in-law called me to tell me my interior lights were on. When I walked out to check the lights were off. This morning my wife drove the truck to the store and called me to tell me the interior lights were staying on. Didn't have this problem before replacing those burned out bulbs.
View 2 RepliesMy 02 F250 periodically has no acccesories like electric windows, radio, and AC do not work for a minute or so. It has been doing this for awhile and seems to be getting more frequent and I am concerned that it might go out on a trip. It runs OK when this is going on and usually happens on the first start on the day. I was thinking maybe the ignition switch?
View 7 RepliesI bought a '98 F150. 4.2 powered, 2WD, automatic. About 140k on it. The truck runs well and is in remarkable shape other than a few dings.
The fuel filler does have the "collar" with the little flapper door on it. So the gas cap doesn't latch and fuel nozzles won't stay put. How would this be repaired?
I have an F 150 2002 Trition V-8. I always thought I knew how to read an instrument panel on a vehicle but after being put down by my Ford, I have to rethink this knowledge.
I have noticed over the past 4 years that my volt meter guage on the instrument panel always stayed in the same place whether the motor was running or just the key in the on position. I noticed that a little battery icon kept coming on and going out yesterday. I read the owner's manual and it said something like this indicates your battery is not taking a charge correctly. Well why has the guage not told me anything. Well the alternator has quit but yet and still the guage is still showing me all is well.
I ask a Ford dealer service dept. about this and they do not have a clue. All they tell me is people do not pay attention to the guage but when the light comes on they need. They also said the gauge would work when everything shuts down, but man! I don't need it to work then. I know it's broken when that happens. It quits running.
What is the purpose of the gauge sitting there all shiny and pretty if it is not going to say anything other than "HEY MAN! I am just here looking pretty and taking up space".
I have looked at other trucks and they do the same thing. Nothing .. What is going on with this gauge which undoubtedly does nothing?
I've been getting ready to take a camping trip with the, new to me, Superduty and going to rent a trailer. When I bought the truck it had no brake controller and the aux relay box was pretty dusty so don't think it's towed in a while. I got my self a controller and the jumper harness to go form the factory connector to the controller, then went to local parts supply and got two standard auto relays and a 30 amp maxi fuse. I noticed after installing the system the reverse lights stay on after putting the truck in reverse, they don't even go out with the key off.
Did some further testing and found pulling fuse 28 (central Elec) the circuit stay powered up, but only after shifting to reverse the first time. Can only turn off lights so far by pulling the trailer relay at the back of the aux. relay box where the two "towing" relays go, I fairly certain it's the "Trailer back up lamps relay". The power mirrors stay powered up too so the relay control circuit is staying powered but only after the relay is energized. What the issue maybe or where to look for a short? I guess there is the a less obvious possibility too - did ford use some funky special wiring for the relays meaning my standard automotive relays from the parts store are incorrect?