Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Battery Indicator Light On Dash Started Blinking Intermittently
Mar 6, 2016
Just bought my first F150. 1998 XLT 4.6l automatic. 126K miles, looks like it was mostly garage kept. All power, A/C, etc.
Picked it up this evening, drove it home after dark. About a 30 mile mostly highway speed drive. Everything went fine, no problems, no hiccups......Until I turned on my last street, about a half mile from home. The battery indicator light on the dash started blinking intermittently. I didn't notice anything else, just the red battery shaped light blinking.
What would cause this, what should I check? I don't want a big problem when I haven't even transferred the title yet!
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The car is a 2005.5 GLI (75k mi) w/ EvoTech Stg1 software, GHL stack intake, and an Iridium billet diverter valve.
Well today I was driving and the Malfunction Indicator Light on the dash came on and started blinking. When I stepped on the accelerator, the car felt like it had 1/4 the power and began shaking. The car idles kind of weakly, and feels like it has no power when you step on the gas. Also, when you step on the gas the car will shake. The strength of the shaking depends on how hard I press on the throttle, more throttle = more shaking. There is no shaking when it idles or when I have it cruising, only when accelerating.
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I bought a 1998 F250 5.4 XLT, 4x4, automatic gear shifting, electric 4x4 HI/LO switch. I'm living up on a hill and when I drove back home last time there was snow and I had to use 4x4 all the way up back home. 4x4 worked fine. I parked the truck and switched of 4x4.
But when I started the truck next time and switched in a gear the 4x4 dash light started blinking. But different to many post I read so far the 4x4 dash light is not just blinking 6 times every 2 minutes, it is blinking constantly very fast (double time of flasher) as soon as I switch in a gear, even without moving the car. The dash light is blinking regardingless to the position of the 4x4 switch. I realized that interior lamp is flashing in same rythm as the 4x4 dash light.
When I shift from 2HI to 4HI 4WD does not engage but it sounds like shift motor on transfer case is doing something. When I switch to 4LO 4WD does not engage either but the gear reduction works. I noticed that when I drive downhill and put on brakes the 4x4 dash light stops blinking for short.
What might be the problem?
What I tested so far:
- All fuses (under dash and under hood) are okay
- Relays under the hood (they switch when I connect them to 12V)
- Switched heating mode selector to panel. Air comes out of panel. Then switched on 4x4 and air comes still out of panel. Not switching to window. So vacuum pump system should be okay as well, right?
- disconnected car battery for a while. Reconnected, started engine, put in a gear and 4x4 dash light was NOT blinking any more. But as soon as I drove a few meters it started blinking again.
- When I drive the speed indicator works as well. So shouldn't be the rear speed sensor, right?
What else can I test?
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I recently changed the heater core on my 99 F-150 which meant i had to remove the dash. I got everything back together turned the key to start it and nothing it wouldn't start it wont even turn over. All the electronics come on like normal it just wont start. I have chased every wire every connection into madness. It has an aftermarket remote start someone said that would have bypassed the PATS but i dont know about that the theft light just started blinking.
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F250 LD 99. Battery light flashing from time to time. When it happen voltage gauge in dash go up (but not in red zone so far). All other light are blinking too but not on and of like battery warning light then like stronger - weaker. So far at Internet is said should be ground. I saw one ground at firewall close to negative post of battery but where is other ground? Can it be voltage regulator (alternator)? Did clean battery posts, didn’t work. 4,6 engine. Voltage at battery posts with engine on is 14,7 - 15,1 V. With engine off 12,3 V.
Didn't managed to check voltage when is battery light flashing as it only happen when I drive not at idle.
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This ID10T light came on last weekend, and I just started trying to fix this. I found this post [URL] ....., but this isn't my problem.
The alt is old, but tested good four times at Napa. Battery is three years old, and it's holding good charge. My scan gauge 2 is showing 11.4-11.6, and I'm guessing this is what's throwing the code, although there isn't an actual code.
I don't have the money to go just start replacing parts, and I need this truck for next weekend, 10/3/15, so I hope to find something by then.
At 2000rpm the SC2 is still showing 11.6 volts, so would it be the charging system? Volt reg? Something in there is clamping the voltage down. At 18 years old, and 250k miles I'm not afraid to put new parts into.
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So I get in my X today and she fires right up as usual... Then the battery light started blinking then stayed on... Then I hear a click and all my stock gauges go out my window and lock switches don't work and my radio doesn't work... Battery light stays on and all signals work as do the mirrors and everything else... I turn the truck off then back on it all comes back on.. 15-20 seconds later I hear the click and all the same stuff is off again.... No seemingly applicable fuses are blown... And the behavior is repeatable...
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So I get in my X today and she fires right up as usual... Then the battery light started blinking then stayed on... Then I hear a click and all my stock gauges go out my window and lock switches don't work and my radio doesn't work... Battery light stays on and all signals work as do the mirrors and everything else... I turn the truck off then back on it all comes back on.. 15-20 seconds later I hear the click and all the same stuff is off again.... No seemingly applicable fuses are blown... And the behavior is repeatable...
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Over the past weekend i noticed all the electronics having a slight "flicker", so I figured my alternator was on its way out. After replacing the alt with a reman, I still had the issue. Then, replaced it with a new new one and the issue still persists. I will be getting a meter to test later when my buddy gets off work. The gauge on the dash is running high and battery light is flickering. Is there something I am missing? I ran another ground to frame also.
2001 SCAB 5.4 144,000mi 4x4 ....
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The ESC warning light has started coming on intermittently on my 06 GLS. Stays solid, not blinking. Turning the car off and starting again resets it but never for long.
The brake light switch was already replaced once at 36K miles. It's now at about 84,500. Do these things have a history of going bad multiple times?
For what it's worth, my little ELM327 ODB II plug-in gadget shows no faults but it may not be able to see the right data. I'm taking it back to the dealer in the morning, where they probably won't fix it and probably will break something else.
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The car is a 1994 Buick Century, 3.1L V6, ~ 80k miles. Four months ago she wouldn't start, so I got a new alternator and battery put in. A month later, while on a short road trip, the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree the whole drive home (ABS, airbag, check engine, battery) and the voltmeter bounced around from mid-high to red-zone high. Thinking it was a bad reman, the alternator was replaced again when we got home. A few weeks went by and all seemed to be going well with the new alternator until, after driving around the city for a while, the airbag light started blinking intermittently.
Accompanying the blinking, the battery gauge again was bouncing around. Eventually, when accelerating from a stop, the car stuttered when moving forward, the battery light flickered, and the ABS light stayed on. Worried that I'd burn up another alternator, I had a mechanic look at it before my next trip. He checked the alternator/battery loads and pulley and said that nothing looked wrong. On the next trip, the intermittent airbag light blinking and voltage fluctuation returned as well as a single episode of stuttering from a stop... these things all only seem to happen after at least an hour on the road.
TO RECAP: Voltmeter gauge steady sometimes, bouncy other times... but usually too high. Airbag light blinks intermittently (seems to happen only after car is warm). Sometimes (rarely) the car will jerk from a stop, at which point the ABS light stays on. No check engine lights. Battery and alternator are new. Same problems (voltmeter in red, warning lights) occurred with last alternator until it burnt up. It seems like a voltage regulation / alternator problem, but the same symptoms occurred with two different alternators (with two different internal voltage regulators). I suspect that there is some electrical problem (short?) that is causing the fluctuating voltage and the tendency for the car to burn up alternators so frequently. However, I don't know much of anything about cars. Does that sound right? If so, where do I even start?
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My truck is a 2002 F-150 4.2l standard trans. I noticed it was lacking a little power one day and the next day a little more so,Then the third day I was heading out to the Doctor (50 miles away) I noticed the truck was slowly and gradually getting worse to where it was hard to even do the speed limit on the highway and the light started blinking so I headed straight to the nearest Advance and had them pull the codes and it gave us 172 bank 1 too rich and 174 bank 2 too lean I replaced the two top o2 sensors (advance sold me)same thing....... plugs, wires, coil, air and fuel filters are all new... checked the PCV hoses all look good, I'm a cancer patient and need my truck for Dr's and treatments and no money to randomly buy parts, I have seen people pointing to intake gaskets and isolator bolts... Does this motor have a track record of this being a common problem?
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I recently aquired an f150 from a tenant, it's an 2003 with 219k, v6. When you first start it all the dash lights and needles go berserk and it will only run for a second, if you press the trip button over and over until eventually the lights are solid it starts and runs fine. If you disconnect the battery for a while it will also start and run fine. What this is? Guy also said the intake runner control valve is stuck open, where is that at?
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My Daughter just bought a nice 99 F150 and the auto trans gear dash indicator is off by one so park says R and drive says N ... shes also having a little trouble with the key occasionally so I think the problems are related. Is this adjustable or not?
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Intermittently blinking check engine light in a 2003(?) Ford Escape. I received a call from my fiance, who's about 45 minutes into a two hour drive. On the interstate, her check engine light started blinking, so she pulls off the interstate to a gas station (the light was blinking for maybe five minutes before she could stop, according to her). After she was off the interstate, but before she had turned the engine off, the blinking stopped.
She called me, and I looked up and directed her to an AutoZone about a half mile from where she was. Told her to drive there, and have them to try to read any codes from the engine. She drives over, engine light stays off the entire time. They hook up the reader, and there aren't any codes. My question is, if the check engine light stops blinking, and there aren't any codes for the reader, is the car safe to drive, or will she destroy the cat if she keeps going? Also, it's raining, if that matters for any reason.
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My blinkers started off blinking a few times then stopped working, now they don't work at all. The fuse says it goes to the brake lamps, hazards and turn signals. The hazards work as well as the brake lamps. I found the relay/flasher box and it appears the relay and flasher is the same for both the turn signals and the hazards. I checked for the wire/connector problem in the column and all looks good there. When I activate the turn signal lever I feel one click in the relay/flasher which leads me to believe the turn signal switch is working. I went ahead and replaced the relay with no results. Is the flasher internals the same for both the hazards and the turn signals or is there two independent sections inside for each?
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I have a 98 f150 4x4, 4.6L 150k miles, during start up the blinker indicator lights on the dash illuminated and stayed on, when trying the blinkers they did not work, but if I shut the head lights off the blinkers do work and indicators respond normally. This is the same if I turn the fan blower on, blinkers don't work and indicators stay illuminated. Also I have found that the power windows, and 4wd no longer work. Other functions work such as power mirror, radio etc. all fuses under the dash and under the hood are good, I tried switching some of the relays to see if that changed anything but with no success . took the kick panel off and inspected the grounds and all seem tight. It looks like the main battery ground is just to the body and there is one solid ground from the frame to the body under the cab. all seem tight and don't appear to be corroded. Truck starts and runs great.
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Pulled inside fuses one at a time and it seems to be #15 I hear a clicking sound coming from drivers door and have the fuse pulled for the battery saver relay when hearing it . My test light is dim then pulses when I close the driver's door?
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So my OD light started blinking on the way to work today. The fact that my truck dropped out of cruise control and then started downshifting out of OD on the freeway and back into OD started this ordeal. A quick scan of the dash made it easy to notice the OD light strobe, especially in the dark.
I've read some posts in the past in the event it happened to me since my truck is far from new. I had it in the back of my mind that I would attack the VSS sensor with some contact cleaner then replace if that didn't fix the problem. Doing a search revealed a far greater spectrum of culprits. In addition to the VSS potential I have read about transmission handles, chafed wiring in the steering column, and even the transmission itself. Instead of re-inventing the wheel I'm looking for those that have more knowledge on this issue than I do. Here are my symptoms:
1. Drove 5 miles from my house to the freeway with no issues.
2. Shortly after getting on the freeway I set my cruise control at 65mph.
3. Shortly after that my cruise control 'dropped out' and the truck started to slow down (obviously).
4. When I got back up to speed the cruise would not work which is when the out of OD and right back into OD started. It did that all the way to work (it would go out of OD and back in every couple of minutes or so).
5. Transmission hunted on surface streets too (25mph).
6. Turned the truck off, waited a couple of minutes, then started it back up. OD light is off and truck drives fine.
A couple of things to note. This is the first time anything like this has ever happened with the truck. Also, I have Torque Pro and my instantaneous MPG meter was at 0.0 the entire time this was happening. When I turned the truck off and back on, the MPG was displaying again normally. This is what made me thing something with the VSS connector.
I decided to search the issue and confirm my suspicions then found out that this could be a lot more difficult to pinpoint. Since it cleared up when I cycled the key I am ruling out a transmission issue (for now).
I plan on cleaning the VSS connector (that's the plug on top of the rear axle right?) and then pulling the cover off the steering column to see if I can see any chafed wires. Is there anything else to check out while I'm rooting around? I will add that my transmission handle has always been loose (I think the original owner used to drive with his right hand resting on the handle).
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on my prius c the fuel indicator started blinking on the last bar on the screen so i went to gas station to fill up. still the bar blinking but, driving after 1km makes the blink off and the bar goes up. And some times the fuel bar just goes down and goes up. What is the reason, why it happens?
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I have a 2012 Pruis C II which has a smart key and I just noticed that the Theft Deterrent indicator, page 110 in the owner's manual, has started to blink whenever the power is off. I have not noticed this in the past 5 months. Could it be that I never noticed it before or it has just started to work or?
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