Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Coolant Leak From Bell Housing?
Jun 12, 2016
Only when running heat or defrost, coolant leak looks like it's coming out of the bell housing. I have a supercharger so very difficult to see behind motor, but with inspection camera, heater hose lines look dry. firewall looks dry. No coolant in cab. No steam on windows or smell. Pretty sure not casting/ freeze plugs because absolutely no leaking with heat off. Can run for days with no loss, then turn on heat and within minutes/ seconds coolant puddling in driveway. Is the hose that runs through valley pressurized only when heat is on? I saw a few older threads but as far as I could tell none specified heat on/ heat off conditions. Just started problem after doing some other work, hoses were off radiator and intercooler, replaced radiator. None of those connections are the culprit.
98 F150 Lariat 1900 TVS S/C Chiller Killer I/C 19PSI Snow performance WMI
View 6 Replies
Advertisement
My '96 ranger, 4.0, auto transmission has developed a coolant leak. It is at the rear of the engine, passenger side, at or just above the bell housing. I can't quite see where it is leaking from even using an inspection mirror from on top or underneath. The engine runs great. I just finished replacing the power steering pump, ac compressor, dryer and hoses. What is back there? Freeze plug? Do I fear the worst and that the head or block warped? I may drill a hole from the passenger compartment to try and get a better view.
View 4 Replies
I have a coolant leak somewhere on the top of the engine running down to the oil pan and bell housing. I have done some research and discovered it could be the coolant inlet tube to the turbo.
View 14 Replies
Removing 4.6 triton from 1998 F-150. Is there a way to remove the top 2 screws connecting the engine to the bell housing without removing the intake manifold? Although I don't mind removing the intake, I am doing a 4.6 to 5.4 swap and would rather attach the intake prior to putting the 5.4L back in. Figuring if I cant get it out that way though, I wont be able to put it back that way.
View 4 Replies
I have a 2003 F-150 4.6 4X4. I had a knocking sound that sounded like a rod knocking but was coming from the bell housing. After some research, I found that it could be a cracked flex plate or bad torque converter. I bought and installed a new torque converter with no change. The flex plate didn't appear to have any damage but went ahead and replaced it with the same results. I actually started the engine by jumping the starter (with no transmission) and the sound was coming from the flex plate/dust cover. My question is do I need the dust cover? Or is it a bearing or something else inside the engine causing the flex plate to hit the dust cover?
View 3 Replies
I have a 1990 F-150 w/351 that I knew had a coolant leak at the back of the engine when I bought. It's a tinker around truck, something for me to play with.
I've traced the leak back to a metal tube/pipe that sticks out of the engine compartment just below the AC housing. I cannot find anything in the Haynes manual or a diagram on the intertron that shows what this is and if it should have a hose on it or...?
View 3 Replies
I'm trying to figure where the coolant leak is. Appears to originate on the driver's side front, right near the thermostat housing. Since the engine tilts back the entire drivers side is wet. The thermostat gasket appears to be OK, but it does have a lot of miles on it.
If it's not the thermostat then can coolant leak from the cross over tube. And is the cross over removable without taking off the intake. There appears to be a bolt coming up from underneath on the passenger side.
Also, does coolant flow through this plastic intake. If it does, then the leak could be some where else, if not, then it's probably the thermostat.
View 9 Replies
The same day that I noticed my coolant temp was running high as I was driving around in my 2011, i was driving around in my corn field cutting wood and i noticed i was dragging something under the truck. when i got out and looked under the truck, there was coolant running down all over the bell housing and oil pan. i was a bit worried that it was my head gaskets leaking but once i got it in the shop and looked at the heads, all looked good. i wasnt sure where it was coming from! so i looked up common coolant leaks on the 6.7 on youtube.
First video was one of the coolant line on the turbo leaking. so i crawled up on top and shoved a mirror down by the turbo and sure enough i could see coolant leaking around the connector fitting coming out of the turbo. apparently the gasket goes bad around this fitting allowing it to leak. i was just wondering if this is really that common of an issue? I did the work myself. and its not really that hard to get to the turbo, its just time consuming removing all the crap around it. all i had to do was remove some connectors that were attached to the plastic intake and remove the intake then you can reach into that fitting. total time was around 2.5 hours.
View 14 Replies
I changed the oil on my '98 Ranger 4.0L V6 yesterday and noticed a little bit of coolant on the bottom of the bell housing. It wasn't much (yet), but it was trickling down from above on the driver's side. I couldn't see clearly behind the engine on top without removing some stuff, but I could see where it looked like it was dripping onto the bell housing, ca.3/4 of the way up on the driver's side. Where the leak may be and how to fix it? As I said, it's only a couple drops now, but I'd like to nip it in the bud.
View 4 Replies
Came out of a turn, went to grab third, clutch went to the floor and didn't come back. Stopped, pumped pedal for a bit, managed to get into first and milked it home. There's nothing leaking, but fluid level was low. I topped fluid, pumped pedal and bled the block at the tranny, pressure came up and I was able to engage gears. Pulled into garage and same issue, no pressure and clutch won't disengage. Pedal is soft. I'm thinking I managed to get some air in the system. Question is if the slave failed, wouldn't I have a leak at the bell housing?
Do I have to drop the tranny to bleed the slave? Also, my stock clutch on APR stage 1 was doing ok before this issue. There was chatter and/or other noises in the clutch at take off but no real issue with slipping. I'm thinking I'll go ahead and replace the clutch. I'll be dropping the trans on a rack in my friends shop.
View 2 Replies
I have a motor oil leak on a 1991 Chevrolet S10 pickup, 2WD, 2.8L, manual transmission.
The leak is around the bell housing area. The oil covers the bell housing and the transmission.
I think it is either the rear main seal or the back of the oil pan gasket. But how can I know for sure? It is difficult to see the back of the oil pan.
Would the oil INSIDE the bell housing be proof positive that it is the rear main seal? I have not looked inside yet.
View 9 Replies
Noticed a small oil spot on my drive way where i park my truck the other day. Got up underneath and saw it was leaking from a rectangular rubber grommet on the front of the transmission bell housing.
What could be causing this? Have heard a few different things, turbo line leak, turbo pedistals, HPOP leak. Seeing what Super Duty Nation thought of the problem. Going to the dealer sometime this week.
View 1 Replies
I am having trouble finding an oil leak on my truck. the oil is coming out of the weep hole on the bottom of the bell housing where the cover over the torque converter is. There is no oil in the front of the valley under the fuel bowl/hpop. But there is a small puddle in the rear of the valley. I have changed all the turbo pedestal orings. Maybe the ebpv rod? But i cant see it leaking from there so im not sure where its coming from. Also have to do the front main as is leaks a little onto my lower radiator hose. How difficult are those?
View 7 Replies
My serp belt started squealing so I pulled the thermostat housing to inspect the rubber gasket. It looked OK, but I cleaned up both surfaces and replaced with a new gasket, and put it back together. The housing was replaced just a couple months ago along with new hoses. It was not corroded and OK to reuse.
Started the truck up and saw a slowish/steady drip of red Cat ELC dripping on the driveway. Opened the hood up again and carefully inspected around the thermostat housing - no coolant is leaking there.
I did notice the same slow/steady drip coming from just behind and beneath the thermostat housing. See in pic, this is where it is dripping. One other question, what is this plug for on the side of the water pump?
View 14 Replies
Getting a chirping noise coming from (i think) the bell housing. a few small chirps at start up, then constant after about 1300rpm, eventually gets high enough and drowns out behind the exhaust that i cant hear it.
Possible flywheel issue? I've uploaded a video to try and illustrate the issue. 1996 ford explorer XLT 4.0.
Just replaced starter a few weeks ago, but this problem was happening before. I dont know if it was as prominent and got worse, or if im just now noticing it and focusing on it.
1996 Ford Explorer bell housing chirp. Flywheel? - YouTube
View 9 Replies
So I have a bit of an oil leak, bell housing drips once or twice while it is parked for a day or so and usually has a drip hanging off of it. Where the starter mounts also has some oil and there is some of the driver side. The valley is totally dry and I have new CAC boots so it isn't coming from up there. When I look through the inspection port it doesn't look like it is from the rear main. I figure this leaves either bedplate or cam/crank sensor. Any thoughts on how to narrow it down further? Maybe put dye in the oil? It looks somewhat oily up by the cam sensor but it is so hard to see that thing I can't tell very well.
View 10 Replies
Daughters 94 f150 4.9L 204K miles e40d started leaking transmission fluid from the bell housing, so she parked it for 2 years...Now I have been nominated to fix it... Truck was running good when parked. Got it started (Just charged battery and started it up), and backed it up. Reverse is good and solid. When I tried to move it, it wouldn't move in drive. Starts to engage, then drops out. Pulled into first, and the truck moves, but have to have high rpm.
Replaced tc seal, filter and fluid, (12 quarts). No change... Ran it down the road, had to start off in first, good power up to about 35, shifted to second, it shifted...ran up to 45, then shifted into drive, it shifted, and maintained power. Had to slow so stopped and turned around, tried moving out in drive, and it just kept dropping out. Returned home as I left...read a lot of this forum, and learned some but not enough..
Pulled codes 327,116,536,538. No transmission codes.
View 10 Replies
I trying to see if this is something that is a easy fix or mayor work. Leak coming from that metal housing behind alternator. Does this housing came off? or do I need to take out the intake out? .
View 8 Replies
My 2003 f150 4x4 w/5.4 has 220k miles and only minor issues until a few days ago. I now have a coolant leak at the mating surface (both sides left and right) of the aluminum crossover coolant manifold (holds thermostat on one end). I have most of the bolts out to remove the crossover manifold but there is one bolt on the RH side that comes from the underside. All things equal, main question is... Can that crossover mainfold be removed independently from the intake? My thought is that in order to get to that last single bolt (there may be others I am not aware of yet) that I will need to remove the intake.
View 1 Replies
A little background info...up until about 6 months ago my 01 Ex V10 was a grocery getter for the wife; only got a few thousand miles a year for the most part. Since we moved from Washington state to Texas it has turned into my daily driver (after a 2500 mile drive towing 8k trailer).
A couple of weeks ago we were running errands and after we got home there was smoke coming from under the hood, but I couldn't pin point it. I let it be because I figure it would let me know when something was really wrong. A few days later it did it again but this time I found the problem; transmission fluid was leaking out of the bell housing onto the y-pipe. I did my research and come to find out it is most likely the front pump seal that got soft from overheating. So my buddy and I drop the transmission and replace the seal. Put it all back together and everything seems great.
Another week goes by and we have driven the Ex fairly extensively around town and even took a couple short day trips and everything is great. Then as we are turning onto an on ramp to get on the highway I give it gas to speed up and all of a sudden the RPMs climb like it dropped into neutral. I had enough momentum that I got over onto the shoulder and started to check thing under the hood. Looked like I was low on trans fluid; ok so I added a quart. Put it in "D" and still nothing. Then I try "1", "2", "R" and they all work fine.
View 4 Replies
I have a 2001 F-150 5.4 engine. There is a coolant leak where the coolant leaves the head. Looks like a new gasket is in order. The part that needs to come off crosses over to the driver's side and the thermostat mounts into it. To remove this part and replace the gasket, it appears that most of the top of the engine, throtle body, fuel rails, intake, etc., will have to come off. One of the four bolts holding the part on is installed with the bolt head facing down. The only way I see to get this out is to take everything apart.
View 5 Replies
