Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Lights Will Occasionally Blink Off And On With Ignition Off
Oct 17, 2014
Ok, so I got a really wierd problem with headlights. 2001 F150, Supercrew, 4x4, 5.4L Auto lights and fog lights. Sitting with ignition off, light switch in "off" position, doors not locked - lights will occasionally blink off and on(more of a flicker). Symptoms go away if I lock with remote.
With engine running, lights "on" position. Turned lights to "park", they started to flicker, back to on, still flickering. Switched to off, still flickering. Switched to "auto", lights stayed on with no flickering.
When lights flicker, I can hear a rapid clicking under the dash somewhere(relay of some sort?). Headlight is a bit wobbly. But when I wiggle it, it has no effect on flickering. From what I remember, likely culprit is the GEM module.
Question: does a new module have to be programmed in any way or is it plug and go? I have a new headlight switch coming.
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My passenger side front signal light works properly, but when I turn my hazard lights on it will not blink normally (the other 3 blink). Inside my truck when looking at my dash I see the small green blinking arrow for the left signal, but not for the right when the hazards are on. When using the signal normally, I see the small blinking green arrow for the right signal though.
1997 F150 Supercab, 4.6L V8
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I have a 1998 f 150 v8 4.6 ltr xlt. A mechanic told me that if my tranny gets hot the OVERDRIVE LIGHT will start to blink. It sounds strange to me, should I have a guage installed? I will be towing a trailer this summer.
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I have a "rapid blink" when I engage the right turn signal. It doesn't do it all the time. When I checked it, the rear was blinking and the front appeared to be out. Changed the right front bulb, but the problem didn't go away. So, I changed the rear bulb. Still didn't cure it. Now I'm confused. I thought for sure "rapid blink" was caused by a bad bulb. What else could it be, Flasher unit? Bad ground?
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I have an '03 Ranger and the guys have figured out how to make the front side marker lights function as turn signal indicators..... I haven't tried it yet myself, but wonder if I could do the same thing with my Dually's fender clearance lights? I am currently running LEDs in there in amber for front and red for rear....they are nice and bright, but I think they would offer some added safety as well as looking neat too. May be I'll re-read the info on the Ranger site......
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2001 F150 5.4 Auto ... Truck was running excellent. Engine light and overdrive light begins to blink and it acts like its running out of fuel or water in gas. Baring made it home. Cleared the code and it comes back. Transmission seems fine.
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I have a 1999 F-150 w/ 4.2 V6. and auto trans, truck has 219,000 miles on chassis but only 25,000 on engine and 10,000 on trans. I've been getting obd codes p0705 and p0715. I replaced the position sensor on outside of trans. but I continue to get the codes off and on again. I noticed that the O/D "OFF" light on the shift selector blinks simultaneously when the "service engine soon" light comes on. I've noticed that there is no low gear unless I have it in D from a dead stop, and not even when downshifting manually.
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01 F-150 7700 ed.
I have a 4R100 Tranny with 139K miles. It has been rebuilt. Ever since the rebuild (over 10 yrs ago), if I park the truck for a week or so or more, I will end up with a decent size puddle of trans fluid underneath the truck. I took it back to the shop that did the rebuild a couple times, but they could never find anything. It leaks enough to where my fluid level drops enough to cause the transmission to slip in a U-turn because the pickup tube becomes uncovered. I have a couple theories, but am wanting to hear from the collective.
Theory #1 When I park it on my slightly sloped driveway I don't regularly use the parking brake, so it rests on the gears, which eventually forces fluid out an overflow or breather tube.
Theory #2 (a very thin one) due to pressure changes associated with the weather, fluid is somehow siphoned out a breather tube due to some blockage internally in the tranny to where it's not equalizing with the outside air and has a high pressure within... ( i kinda laugh at myself for this one, but I am at a loss over the source of this)
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I have a 98 F250 Supercab XLT. 4wd with 3:73 gear ratio. twist 4wd on the dash. Truck runs great but when i switch to 4wd it makes noise and occasionally will pop out of 4wd. The noise starts at almost no speed. I can hear it at less than 5 mph. and only gets worse as i increase speed. (sounds like a bad wheel bearing) - But only in 4wd/ nice and quiet in 2wd.
I used sensors and ear phones to pinpoint the noise. It appeared to be coming from the front differential. I opened the pumpkin found clean fluid and no metal bits or any visible unusual wear. I changed the front diff. with another used unit. The noise is still there strong and unchanged. The wheel bearings and axles seem to be all right.
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2000 F150 5.4... I was cleaning the battery posts tonight. I was leaning against the bumper when I touched the positive cable and got voltage into my knee. I have had weird electrical problems occasionally.
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Have a p0401 code which I need to diagnose and solve. However, I don't believe the symptoms are indicative of the EGR system. Its a 1999 4.6L auto approximately 200k miles. Truck runs fine until it warms up, and then occasionally it begins to act like its missing under load. steady state on the freeway it may have an occasional miss, but put a load on the motor and the miss becomes real bad. This doesn't seem to me to be symptomatic of a P0401 code, but I don't really understand the EGR system enough to be sure. Searching on the forums for other p0401 codes doesn't seem to have the same symptoms.
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We had my son's water pump replaced in his 97 F150. It is now occasionally jumping to completely hot. If you turn it off and back on it returns to normal. The power to the engine is cut when it shows to be overheating. The check engine light has now come on.
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I purchased a 1999 F-150 Lariat 4x4 automatic transmission about a year ago. When I did, the previous owner told me about an idle issue that he has occasionally. He said that the issue was with the IAC. He claimed that he had replaced it several times but "it was hard to get a good aftermarket IAC that actually works". He said he tried several, but it never fixed the issue. That sounds like he wasn't replacing the defective part to me, but I don't know. This is my first truck to ever purchase.
Fast forward a bit (about a year), and I have had intermittent issues with idle and running rough since I bought the truck. I don't drive the truck that often, but they are becoming more common, so I want to get things fixed now.
Issues:
1. When running at idle, especially in park, the idle seems to fluctuate and never stay consistent. The idle drops as soon as I put it into drive, and the truck jerks a bit when going into drive because the idle was too high in park. It has never died while at idle, however.
2. When driving, especially up a slight or moderate hill, the power seems low and the truck starts to ping and jerk. The only way I can avoid the jerking is to stomp on the accelerator and go into a lower gear. And even when doing that, I still can notice an ever so slight jerk.
3. This past week, it was rough for an entire 40 mile journey on the interstate. Slight ping the entire ride home. When I pulled into the driveway, it was jerking until I turned it off. I haven't tried to drive it sense.
Potential issues:
1. IAC - maybe the previous owner was right. Maybe I should replace it again, or clean it with some carb cleaner.
2. Cam Phasers - I saw some posts about this on the forum.
3. EGR valve - Also saw some posts about this.
4. Maybe even the transmission? It doesn't seem to have an issue going into or out of gear, though.
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I have been having odd problems with my truck for several weeks now and what the problem may be. Occasionally the truck will not start. This happens after it has been run for an errand or to church. The truck turns over but no ignition. Sometimes if I pump the gas pedal very quickly I can get it to start. Other times I have to sit and wait about 5 minutes. I have gotten the following two error codes - P1506=Cylinder Head Temp Sensor and P1299=Idle Air Control Overspeed Error. For two days the "check engine" light was on, but now it has gone out. I have searched for an answer to this problem on these boards and one possibility may be a vacuum leak. Is this the most likely? 1998 Triton 4.6 ....
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I recently bought a 4.2L V6 2003 F150 with only 20,350 original miles. This car belonged to an older gent who barely used it, then passed on about 3 years ago, and truck sat around barely used by anyone. When I picked it up I ran some Seafoam through the first two gas tanks as it was occasionally running rough and losing power. Since then truck has been running incredibly smooth, but in the last few days it is getting harder to start. If I pumped it two or three times it would start OK, but today I have had to pump it while cranking it to get it to start. ( the pumping may have nothing to do with it starting)
I am replacing the fuel filter in the next couple of days, as any accumulated junk that was in the tank or lines is now probably in the filter, but it seems that a badly clogged filter would also give me some problems running, and it runs really smooth once it starts. I get a pressure gauge, (I understand the rails have a pressure test port) what pressures should I expect at what moments?
Turn key on :
Crank engine :
I am brand new to the F150 and trucks in general.
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I bought my 2003 F-150 XL (4.2L V6, 2WD, had 165k miles when purchased, 170k now, battery is a Napa brand manufactured in April 2012) in June 2012. A few weeks after I got it, I started having some weird issues. The check engine light came on and I went and had the codes read at Advance Auto. They were P0171 and P0174, lean bank one and lean bank two. The vacuum leak causing these codes isn't the issue I'm dealing with, it is the electrical problem.
The truck will occasionally flash every light on the dash (service engine soon, low fuel, oil, coolant temperature, seat belt, door ajar, and a couple others if I remember correctly) when I turn the key to power on the electronics. The first time I turn the key all the way to crank the truck up, it cranks fine, starts up, and dies within 3-4 seconds. The second time, it does the same thing. Third time, it just cranks and cranks, but will not start. After cranking and not starting a few times, the truck basically just clicks because the battery is run down.
This problem has happened randomly since June. It might be six weeks, one week, or only a few days between occurrences. The last two times it did it, I took the battery out of the truck, put it on a 6 amp charger overnight (about 8 hours), put it back in the truck, and it still wouldn't start, lights still flashing, etc. I gave it about 2-3 hours and both times the truck would start strongly and without incident, and the service engine soon light was off.
It rained here a LOT this summer, so I figured it might have something to do with driving through standing water at various speeds. The problem seems loosely associated with rainy weather (it rained last Saturday and I had to drive approximately 10-12 miles in it), but now it has started something new.
Yesterday afternoon, I tried to start the truck and it did the above described problem. I took the battery off and put it on a 10 amp charger for about six hours yesterday and left it disconnected overnight. Reconnected it this morning, gave it a couple of hours, still nothing. I remembered one time a while back that hitting the odometer reset button made the dash lights stop flashing. I held down the reset button and everything stayed lit up, but stopped flashing. Turned the key with the reset button held down and the truck started right up, but the dash kept flashing.
Turned it off, tried starting it without holding down the odometer reset, would crank, but not start. Tried starting it while holding down the odometer reset again, started right up. When I turned it off and tried it a third time, it just cranked for about six seconds before I gave up. This time, the oil, coolant temperature, battery, and service engine soon lights stayed lit (not flashing, they were solid) and the truck refused to start anymore.
Before it did the odometer reset BS I thought maybe I could figure it out because while it was a ghost of a problem that randomly came and went, it was always the same issue. Now I'm COMPLETELY lost.
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I have a 97 F150, 2wd, 4.6, auto bought for a great price agout 3 months ago.... I installed a cold air intake (air raid) and a throttle body spacer with the swirling cuts.
Since the cold air intake add, the truck occasionally makes a load "roaring" sound from the intake system. At same time rpms increase 500-1000 rpms...
it doesn't do it all the time, mostly at low throttle, and a quick jab on the accelerator usually stops it. sometimes such as when parking, holding the brake and applying a bit of throttle with load from the brake will also stop it.
Guys at local garage seem to think it has something to do with lower outside temps, (denser) and addition of cold air intake. it made the noise before the throttle body spacer.
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99 F 250LD 240k miles. I think I know the answer but hope I'm wrong. Started noticing the blower fan staying on when left in the panel position, even with key out. This morning I walked by my truck and noticed the radio on. Opened the door and the door chime started beeping. Is this a case of a leaky windshield and water running down the a-pillar and getting the GEM wet? Hope not but I think that's it. I haven't seen any water leaks yet. Could it be a stuck ignition relay? I've never heard of a relay staying open. Could it be a corroded fuse panel. i also heard a clicking coming from the area of the PCM recently but it stopped.
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I recently purchased my 1998 F150 Lariat, and it came with a small silver key (I haven't figured out what it's for yet), and a key for the ignition, plus the remote door lock control on the key chain.
Naturally, for the first several weeks I had been locking and unlocking the doors with the remote. I had assumed that the ignition key would also lock/unlock the doors and tailgate. Well, it fits into the locks, but doesn't turn.
Could it be that a different key is required for doors, or, maybe the door lock cylinders are seized?
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I'm having a problem with my ignition switch. It won't turn and I have to turn the steering wheel for it to finally work.
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2000 F150 5.4 engine. The truck was running great, but it's time to sale it. The ignition cylinder periodically will stick. So, my son the genius , took a pair of pliers to force it to turn. I get home from work to move it the front yard and the PATS theft is blinking fast as I try to start it. It cranks just not start. I hear the fuel pump come on. I removed the cover on the steering column and there is no damage to the ring around the key cylinder or anything I can see, just the cylinder itself . I tried disconnecting the battery, switching relays,etc.
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