Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Slight Vibration On Take Off
Jan 10, 2010
I haven't really gotten under it to check this out, but my truck (see signature) has a slight vibration on take off. It only does it when the wheels are turned to the right or left. They don't have to be turned very far either. It doesn't do it on straight line take offs, or on a take off from a rolling stop. ONLY when pulling off from a dead stop and the front wheels are turned any degree to the right or left. I'm running mostly bald all terrain tires, the wheels are not bent. My current wheels are new to the truck, and the problem was there with the previous rim/tire combination. The rear end doesn't seem to have any slack in it. The transmission shifts like a top. There are no other clanks or vibrations anywhere in the drivetrain and it drives good.
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Noticed my 2002 F150 had a very slight vibration in the seat / steering wheel when cruising down the highway at 60 MPH.. Very slight, but was not there 2 weeks ago.. It seem to get a little worst as the 2 weeks progressed. Got all 4 tires balanced and rotated... no luck...Took both rear wheels off-- no problems with tires -- checked bearing clearance-- pushed and twisted on driveshaft yolk to check pinion bearing... nothing found......... last resort was drop back end of driveshaft and check U-joint.. It was tight and dry. Put drive shaft in 12 ton press and pushed out the u-joint bearings. Very dry and joint pins were starting to spall....... I mention this because I had checked " clearance" and "slop" and had "no noise" before removal... Truck has 139K miles on original u-joints .......... Something to keep in mind. Eventually it would have worn to the point that it was obvious, but in the first stages of failure, you just get small symptoms.
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Recently I have a vibration that I can feel slightly through the steering wheel. If I'm driving down the highway doing 70mph + I have a noise coming from the front end. Also while driving let's say 40mph and below and I let off the pedal to slow down I can here a vibration in the front that kind of sounds like a small Jake break. And when going over anything bumpy I hear like a popping metal sound. This popping sound has been going on for a long time and still can't figure it out. I replaced all my shocks thinking my old set was bottoming out. Nope, still have the same problem.
I jacked up the front end yesterday and checked for movement top and bottom and side to side thinking maybe the wheel bearings or ball joints were going. Everything is solid. Spun the wheels and no noise, no grinding, nothing. I can't figure it out. I have not removed the wheels to check and see if a caliper is loose. I will be checking that next. I did notice while looking around that I can push up on my pitman arm on the steering box. It's not a huge amount of movement but I can still move it. I can also see teeth marks between the box and the arm, not sure if that is normal or not. When I do move it up and down it sounds a lot like that metal popping sound I have been hearing. So, I know this is a lot.
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A little about my truck. E99 F-350 crew cab long bed dually 4x4 223K miles. 4.10 gears with LS in rear.
I bought the truck June 2016. I ended up wrecking the truck on the test drive. Thought it was a 4 way stop and pulled out in front of a lady and she ran into the passenger side tire. Only damage that was on the truck was a busted tire, and the fender smashed in. Some how missed the door and the bumper.
I replaced all the front end: u-joints, ball joints, steering linkage, brakes, rotors, calipers, and all the u-joints in both of the drive shafts, also changed the fluid in both axles.
I have started to notice a slight "vibration" "shimmy" while driving down the road. Mainly while in a curve or changing lanes; applying pressure to the steering wheel one or the other. Tires have been balanced, and rotated several different times now with no luck at all.
While backing up, I can feel something "popping" "clunking" especially while turning. Like backing out of a parking space.
Insert troubleshooting:
Jack truck up and put on jack stands.
- Pull and shake all tires. --No movement
- Put in drive and watch all the rear end. --Nothing shaking or out of sync.
- Put truck in 4wd, hard to engage, watch front end. --Nothing shaking or out of sync.
- Turn tires to full lock. --Drive line starts clanking and shaking and rear tires acting funny.
- Turn tires straight. --Problem goes away.
- Put truck back in 2wd. --No problems when turning wheel lock to lock.
- Drive to empty parking lot. --Mainly feel problem while backing up, really have to feel for it. Most people call me insane.
- Lock the front axle. --No difference.
- Put in 4wd. Drive straight --No difference.
- In 4wd while turning. --Truck wants to act like it is fully locked in the rear and will bind up and slip a tire. You really have to give it some fuel to make it even try to move, and its almost like the truck wants to fold in half on itself. Cant keep the steering wheel in one spot as it keeps "jumping" on me.
- Put in 2wd. --Acts the same way until the truck fully comes out of 4wd then smooths back out to where you have to really feel for it. 4wd light stays on forever, before going off later in life.
- Put in 4low. --Gears grind and will not engage.
Would this indicate that the transfer case is messing up on me? Why would the rear axle feel like it is locked when in 4wd?
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I'm looking at a 2001 Excursion with 242k miles. Truck is all stock, and everything checks out well. The only thing is there is a slight vibration at idle, that increases quite a bit when the engine is revved to about 12-1500rpm. Ran a CCT, and #8 was flagged. I know that can be somewhat normal depending on the CPS, right? Otherwise the truck is smooth, and in great shape. Should I be concerned about what feels like a slight miss on #8?
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Early 99 F250 7.3 Manual 4WD Extended Cab Short Bed
I am at a loss. I have a slight vibration/medium roar seemingly coming from front. I have tried fixing/replacing several things, with no luck. When I get above 35-40 mph, I can hear a whirling vibration that sounds like tire tread noise (very little tread on tires). When I tap the brakes, seems to make a difference, seems to get louder as I slow down. I can feel it in the clutch and accel. pedals. It is consistent, when I push clutch in and let idle at 45mph, it is still there. Doesn't seem to make a difference when swaying back and forth, maybe a little. When i get below 25-30mph it isn't noticeable.
Here is what i've done so far :
1.Replaced both front wheel bearing assemblies, rotors and brakes
2.Replaced drivers side brake caliper (seemed to be sticking a bit?), will do passenger side tomorrow
3.Serviced both hub locks and verified front axle is not engaged (one was locked for some time, I thought I found issue, but still have vibration)
4. Tightened pitman arm joint, was slightly loose (need to replace)
5. Inspected tie rod ends and other joints, see no noticeable movement, but have not marked them off the culprit list.
6. Tightened output shaft nut, was a little loose
7. Raised rear end off on jack stands, and revved up to 50 mph, and no vibration, so I have excluded u joint and cardan joint, everything points to front end
8. Rotated tires, left front to right rear
What I haven't done :
1. Have a leak in pinion seal, not replaced yet
2. Seems the upper and lower ball joint had the slightest, I mean slightest play in it when lifting the front driver side wheel (I mean less than 16th inch) but could hear it. I haven't done anything with this yet ... may be the problem? Would a tire out of balance wreak this much havoc with this amount of movement?
3. Haven't replaced the pitman arm joint, will but not sure if this can create issue.
Nothing I've done seems to make a difference.
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I have a 2003 Buick Century in automatic with overdrive. During the past week I experienced a hum and slight vibration at speeds over 20 mph. (The faster I drive the higher the hum.) I checked the transmission fluid. It was brown and pink but did not smell burned. I have not changed the trans fluid in 2 years. I sent it to my transmission guy for an oil change. He said that the 1st gear clutch was having some problem and there was no 4th gear. He suggested another transmission...
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I have a 2000 F-150 xlt off road with a 5.4. I have owned the truck since 2001. The truck has 170K miles on it and I change the oil between 3-4K miles. The last couple oil changes I have I have noticed I haven't been draining as much out as I usually do, this past oil change was about 3 quarts low. I thought it was very odd. The truck runs great and does not smoke or leak oil.
This morning I got in and noticed a tick or slight knock, thought maybe it needed warmed up. After a minute. I shut it off and checked the oil, to my surprise there was next to no in the engine! This has me very worried now. I haven't checked my coolant since last oil change so I'm not sure if that's where it's going. Where to start looking, I'm missing like 5 quarts of oil in 3300 miles. Again the truck run great and does not smoke at all. I was getting ready to change it this weekend, always run high millage 5w-30.
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Recently noticed when driving, I'll hear and feel a slight clicking noise coming from my steering column. I can be going straight or turning. it is intermittent. I've look underneath and nothing seems obvious. when the truck is in park, I've tried to manhandle the steering wheel, the steering wheel is solid. the truck is a 1998 f150xl v6.
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I have 2002 f150, fx4, ext cab, 110000miles 5.4 automatic truck, i just replaced my spark plugs, it still have a little miss, thought spark plugs will resolve but its the same, im wondering if i should change O2 sensors? clean EGR Valve? IAC valve? i am not getting good gas mileage and maybe its this missfire or something, its runs good without any problems, just this slight miss makes me think if its the cause to bad MPG.
I tried to find threads with pictures of how to change O2, how to clean EGR, and IAC, i remember seeing these threads but cant find em. And you think these three things will resolve my MPG and the slight miss?
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I have a 2001 f150 5.4 with 200,900 miles. Just bought the truck about six months ago off my dad when he got a new one. I am now experiencing what seems to be a slight misfire. With the hood up pulling the throttle around 2200 rpm starts making a loud knock. Above that rpm nothing and below that nothing. Standing by the tailpipe it sounds like a small backfire. It Idles really rough and when you get that sound out of the tailpipe it jumps like its hiccuping. And tailpipe is vibrating quite a bit.
Things I have done in the past month include replacing the pcv valve, changing spark plugs, cleaning throttle body, cleaning MAF, took down exhaust to check cats because i was experiencing a power loss and bogging. When the exhaust was off i punched the two rear cats. I ran a bottle of iso heat in the gas. Everything seems to have supported the power problem but now less than a week later i am starting to experience the knock and backfire type sounds.
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I have a 97 F150 4.6. The truck has developed a slight stumble/misfire when under acceleration. Once at speed it runs fine. It has not given any codes. I've checked for them several times. The plugs and wires have been changed. Is it possible that a coil pack could be bad without throwing a code?
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I have a 2000 F-150 4x4 with a 5.4 engine. On two different occasions, I have been driving down the highway about 70 miles an hour down a slight grade in OD. When I let off the gas to coast a little the truck will downshift. press on the gas again, the truck goes back into OD. I do this a couple of times and then it wont do it again. What might be happening. Truck has 82,000 miles on it. I am the only owner. Transmission fluid changed a year ago.
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I have a 2003 screw 4x2 with the 4.6, 148,000 miles, and I'm not sure what kind of transmission. Recently when the truck would shift into second it would hesitate and I would feel a slight grind, but it only did it when it would shift at 2000 rpm, if it shifted at 2500 rpm it would shift fine. I checked the fluid level, it was full, it smelled okay, looked *fine.
After pulling a boat (19 foot bass boat...nothing too heavy) it started to shake violently when I'd take off from a red light. So I dropped the pan and changed the filter, The fluid was dark red and smelled a little burnt. I put 4qts of fluid in it along with some Lucas transmission fix. The shake during take off is gone, and the grinding while shifting into second got a lot better but didn't go away completely.
However, now the grinding into second has has gotten worse again, and if I make a right turn from a red light it grinds and feels like its slipping until it shifts. I am not sure why making a right turn would affect it but its definitely worse when i turn right, left turns are fine. I'm guessing my transmission is going out and I just need to get it rebuilt...
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97 f150 4.2 ... Got a pickup awhile back and was smoking excessive mostly blue. Pulled the motor and had exhaust valve with hole in it and intake valve not seating on separate cylinders. All new gaskets and put back in truck. Deleted catalytic since they were both destroyed and cleaned muffler as best I could. Now it smokes but mostly white when revved up and maybe slight blue at idle. It's not using coolant or oil but went through five gallons of gas in short time.
Tests I have done : Checked fuel pressure and holds 38 psi all day. Tested maf o2 sensors, one is bad and tested vacuum and compression all good. It seems to be over fueling to the extreme. idles a little rough and will backfire on occasion. No check engine light but had all the o2 sensor issue codes. I'm leaning toward bad PCM... Would that cause the smoke rough idle and super rich condition??
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Driving the last week, gone about 10 - 15miles when all the sudden I noticed a stumbling in motor while going up hills. Got where I was going, shut her off and came back a few minutes later, loaded the kids and popped the hood. Nothing obvious but a vac hose from the vac reservoir(?) to TB was a little rough looking. Jumped in, hard to start - low on fuel or ignition and idled at 300 - 400 till throttle got it going. Has started and idled fine ever since. Raced home with the whole 15 miles stumbling up hills - repeated that every drive since after a few miles of driving. Warming the motor up prior to driving doesn't seem to speed up the problem - it takes a few miles to start. Assumed fuel pump at this point.
Got to work on it. Replaced the suspect vacuum hose. Nope. Checked fuel psi - 31 and 40 w/o vacuum. Doesn't hold pressure - reading conflicting things on whether the system should hold psi with key cycle. It doesn't - bleeds to 0 in minute. Replaced fuel filter, regulator and pump. Checked the relay and pump after install - good click and good hum. Felt like problem was gone but I didn't drive more than a few miles each time I checked due to pulling the bed for the tank work. Plus we dropped 30 - 40 degrees while working it.
Never a CEL but decided to checked codes.
Continuous pulled up Neutral Safety Switch that I replaced last year
KOEO - P0232 which I assumed was from pulling the inertia switch multiple times to do the fuel system work
One time I did get P1207(?) Cylinder Head Temp Sensor out of range. Got it once and never again. Curious..
KOER - has never found a problem
The cold seems to have lessened the problem making me think electronics. My BIL is saying #4 or #5 coil or plug. I am starting to feel like I am chasing a gremlin.
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OK, I have a 1997 F150 2wd 3 door with a 4.2, approximately 130000 miles on it. I am the 2nd owner and have only had it for a couple months.
I noticed it ran a little rough on start up but smoothed out after it warmed up so I wasn't too concerned. CEL was on but it ran fine. I got the truck from my FIL and he said that it just had new hoses put on and the CEL came on after that. I noticed a slight coolant smell and after a big leak by the water pump I discovered that the guy who fixed it didn't have any of the hose clamps as tight as they should have been.
The heat went from really good to non-existent the last few weeks, never had any over heating issues though. Last week I was driving it to work and the temp gage spiked the light came on. I stopped and checked the coolant and it seemed fine. After I sat for a minute or two I checked the temp and it came back to normal. I figured it was because I let some pressure out of the system. It got hot again when I got to work but didn't spike at all driving home. I figured the water pump or t-stat was bad.
I replaced those on Saturday. When I filled the coolant up it ran rough and smoked but stopped and ran fine. Temp was fine but heat was nada. Today same thing, smokes like a steam engine for a few minutes then runs fine. Coolant smell is noticeable. I had the codes scanned and got P0303, P0174, and P0171.
I am thinking intake gaskets, since it seems to be an issue with these engines. I am going to fix it before I get a hydro lock situation, so what would be the next thing to look at before deciding that they need changed? Do I need any Ford specific tools to do this job?
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I have a 2002 Ford F150. 273,000 miles on it. When I am going about 50 mph and I start down a hill and let off the gas a bit and then when at the base of the hill I push on the gas to accelerate then sometimes it does a weird hesitation or slight "lurch" but it is NOT in the engine. The engine continues to run smoothly during this lurch. It only happens between 45 and 55 mph. It only seems to happen when I am trying to accelerate out of a coast. I had the dealer check underneath thinking it might be a u-joingt? They said everything underneath seems to be in good shape. Someone told me to consider Ring and Pinion Slop problem in the rear differential? When I read about that it seems that it normally makes a noise. There is no noise with my truck's problem.
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I have a 99 f150 5.4 and i am pretty sure I have a cop issue. I have changed a few over the past few years and this one is acting about the same. The other day i felt a slight stumble but it went right away and drove fine. Well after heavy rain all night i went to take the kids to school and it was stumbling and acting like it was not firing on all cylinders. CEL came on and got the code read at the auto part store. Well driving it home it just cleared and drove fine. So i checked the #6 plug and changed the boot on the coil but all the same symptoms came back. It is the original coil so i am figuring that it is bad.
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The passenger side power window sounds a little rough, almost like a slight grinding and it raises and lowers slower than the driver side.
This is kind of what happened when the plastic gears crumbled on the passenger side of my ranger. Does this sound like bad gears or could it be something that needs grease?
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My friends truck is having a problem, and I haven't found any info on the specific issue. when you shift from P to D and accelerate, there's a slight grinding clatter in the tranny i think, bump it to 2 and the noise is completely gone! pull it to 1, and there she is again, also in reverse it does this, speed is not a factor, only the specific gears. i had read a thread which mentioned a "sun gear", and also that 1st and R are on the same bands?
I believe it was for a manual tranny that I had read about, but what this could be?! he's got a slight drag on the rear brakes, i assume it's his E-brake, could that have caused a transmission failure? We've removed the driveshaft and checked u-joints and all, nothing there, but when the truck reverses on the ground, you can watch the driveshaft bounce like it's binding. We grease the slip joint while we had it off, and we were able to spin the rear wheels by turning driveshaft w no problem while off the ground.
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