Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Truck Cranks For 3 - 4 Seconds Before It Finally Fires / PO171 And PO174 Codes
Jul 11, 2015
I have the notorious PO171 and PO174 codes on my 2003 5.4L that come back whenever I erase them. I cannot figure out the problem. Whenever I start the truck it cranks for 3-4 seconds before it finally fires, then rpm's are very low, then they finally pick up. I have noticed a loss in power as well. I have completed a full tune-up (spark plugs, coils, boots, filters, etc.)
I have checked the vacuum and PCV lines numerous times, I have yet to find a leak. MAF appears clean. I am running a K&N CAI setup. O2 sensors a good, replaced the gas cap. The only other problem I can see is a bad PCV valve? I hope it isn't a manifold gasket. The truck has been very well maintained and still looks brand-new throughout at 250,000 miles.
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Everything started with the typical lean bank 1 and bank 2 codes. I started at the basics change fuel filter PCV Hose & Valve clean the MAF changed air temp sensor(it was cheap). Still had same po171&po174 codes. Bought a obdll reader. After 3 weeks of nothing being accomplished I bit the bullet and took it to Ford for a diagnostic and they said it was definitely the intake gaskets.
I changed the gaskets and now this has gotten worse! I started the truck after reassembly and it ran like crap!
Checked everything and everywhere and could find nothing wrong. I then took off the vacuum line to the EGR and everything smoothed out. I didn't mess around and replaced the EGR the DPFE and the vacuum solenoid.
It still runs like crap especially at idle. I did the tests with my digital meter and found the vacuum solenoid is calling the EGR to be open all the time. I suspect that this would be the fault of the PCM? What should be my next course of action?
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This truck has been running fine then as my son was getting off the interstate it started acting like it was running out of gas then died. I went to tow him in and it cranked right up and never had another problem for a week. Yesterday he drove 80 miles away when the same thing happened shortly after he got off the interstate. He replaced the fuel filter which it probably needed but still won't start and stay running. It cranks right up the immediately dies.
First time this happened it was throwing codes PO171 and PO174. Now it is not showing any DTC's at all and none pending. We see no frayed or bad wires and all vacuum hoses seem fine. He cleaned the MAF with no change in behavior.... If it were an outboard motor or some kind of boat I'd say the problem is in the ignition switch except it does run a very short time before dying. If I immediately try to restart it won't stay running. If I let it sit for a while then it will run for about a half minute.
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I have a 01 f150 7700 with a 5.4L and its throwing codes po135, po155, po174, and po171. Here is the history, last year had same code and found it was a bad ELLBOW on pcv hose, replaced and that fixed it, I also had a crack on egr valve and I replaced that too. This Jan truck was running bad in the morning and I traced it to a bad idle air controller, replaced it. I got a code and guy said I had a bad pcv valve so I replaced it.
About 3 weeks ago check engine light came back on with the 4 codes listed above, I replaced both front o2 sensors, 250,000 mile so I thought that was it but came back same code, I took it to a local mechanic and he said that the intake gaskets need replaced, but he call me later and said I had no leaks on the intake and that he did find another vac leak. He didn't charge me anything and sent me on my way.
I drove the truck about 50 miles and same codes back, so to recap I have cleaned mad sensor, replaced both front o2 sensors, a new egr valve, a new idle air control, pcv valve, pcv hose and ELLBOW, don't know what to look at next. Any clues?
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2001 F150 4.6. Just replaced all 4 oxygen sensors and spark plugs. Replaced rubber grommet on brake booster as it was leaking vacuum.
Truck is still running rough hesitating.
Pulled codes came up as PO141 oxygen sensor heater circuit. PO171 passenger side cylinders running lean. Fuel trim outside limits.
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So it often just cranks for 15 seconds before it fires. I put the fuel pressure guage on it and you turn the key on but don't engage the starter it goes to 30 psi then back to 0 in a 2 second time frame. It then stays at zero. when you engage the starter pressure slowly goes up and it starts running while running its a consistent 60 psi.
I presume its the fuel regulator but why does it not go up to 60 psi and why does it just stop with the KOEO? Is it reasonable to just replace the regulator? or should I be replacing the fuel pump to at the same time? I will be doing this from under the truck since there is a lot of hard mounted equipment in the bed.
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I have a 2000 F150 4.2L and I have 2 codes PO304 & PO174 so far I have changed my plugs & wires,fuel filter,mass air flow sensor, and coil pack...it is still running rough under a load and a little rough on idle..
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So I had a reman 7.3 and 4r100 dropped in my 03 excursion.. since then the engine fires up every single time.. ONLY when the truck sits for 2 days i have this issue where the truck fires right up, runs for 4 or 5 seconds then stalls out.. It starts back up on first try and idles rough 10 seconds then it runs great.. If it only sits 1 day i dont have the issue if it sits 1.5 days it will try to stall out and catches itself from stall out and doesn't stall about 3/4 of the time. The mechanic who is a reputable diesel mechanic cant figure it out.. they called swamps and they also were unsure.
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2002 F150 5.4 v8,,, I had troubles just over a month ago with a po305 code. i got the truck fixed with 2 new coils n some gaskets. I am having these po353 & po171 codes pop up now. The truck is running rough and I am curious to if its just another coil problem or if their is something I am overlooking or just don't know about?
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Does the 2011 6.2 have a DPFE sensor? If so where is it located? Codes are lean bank one and two and random misfire. Suggestions I have read online are replace DPFE sensor. I don't think maybe there is one on a 2011 6.2. Who have had it and had it fixed. Other things I see are clean the MAF sensor. Look for vacuum leaks.
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Alright I thought changing a fuel filter was fool proof but I changed the fuel filter in my 2001 escape v6. awd and now for some reason it wont start right up like it used too before the filter change. It cranks for a few seconds then fires up and runs perfectly fine it sits for a few hours same issue where as before the filter change it fired up fine every time, what did I do wrong. 2001 ford escape...
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My 02 navigator does not idle right when in park or sitting at stoplight. I've gotten codes po171 and po174. The truck ran fine for a good 3 months after the (service engine soon light) came on and I got these codes so I decided to do nothing.. Now it idles bad and has even shut off twice on me while pulling into driveway. I changed the MAF and that did nothing.. Should I assume its the o2 sensors or is there a chance my CAT is shot.
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My truck has a short in it. I've noticed this delay for the past few months. Takes a few seconds when I'm cranking it, then it finally starts. Could it be the alternator that I need replaced? It's not the battery, cause I'm getting plenty of juice.
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It driving me crazy. Every 10th start of engine it cranks over and over before it fires up, no codes, changed plugs, wires, crank trigger, fuel filter, upper and lower intake gaskets, injectors, iacv. I have no clue. Runs great all time just starting issue every 10th or so start takes 10- 15 seconds to start
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Haven experienced a couple of times now that my B6 3.2 VR6 (V6) have a little problem to start, it seem to start up fine then shuts down - and one will have to keep starting it for some time before it finaly fires up correctly........
I have not experienced yet this behaviour when the car is warm, and personally I'm starting to think about the injector coil stuff thingy - but haven't done a vag-com yet, but will do.
I know the 3.2 was only uin EU, but basically pretty much the same as the 3.6, they are both a VR system
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Last night my boyfriend took a friend to the check cashing store, truck ran fine. shut it off, and when he came out the truck would not start. it cranks over but won't start. Took ignition coil off and had it tested but its fine. What else could be wrong or what can i do to try to get it to start again.
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2000 ford f150 4.6 auto. Will spin over but won't start. checked coil for fire, no fire. Check fuel rail for fuel, no fuel. No theft light flashing and no check engine light on. Has new battery and plenty of fuel in tank. Started fine yesterday but not today.
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Looking for some experience/recommendations for the "what to do" and "in what order" for an error code. Recently the "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light came on and has stayed on for the last 2 weeks. It has don this before after a heavy rain but went off after a few days but not this time. I took it to Advance Auto who hooked it up to a Trouble Code Reader and got back "PO174- Bank 2 system to lean". From what I've read from the Haynes book and other forum postings this is either a O2 sensor issue or a intake manifold gasket issue? Does this sound right? Next is how to go about addressing this issue in a systematic manner so as not "fix" 10 things that don't need fixing and not running to mechanic and paying a buttload for something I can do myself for less.
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I bought my 2003 F-150 XL (4.2L V6, 2WD, had 165k miles when purchased, 170k now, battery is a Napa brand manufactured in April 2012) in June 2012. A few weeks after I got it, I started having some weird issues. The check engine light came on and I went and had the codes read at Advance Auto. They were P0171 and P0174, lean bank one and lean bank two. The vacuum leak causing these codes isn't the issue I'm dealing with, it is the electrical problem.
The truck will occasionally flash every light on the dash (service engine soon, low fuel, oil, coolant temperature, seat belt, door ajar, and a couple others if I remember correctly) when I turn the key to power on the electronics. The first time I turn the key all the way to crank the truck up, it cranks fine, starts up, and dies within 3-4 seconds. The second time, it does the same thing. Third time, it just cranks and cranks, but will not start. After cranking and not starting a few times, the truck basically just clicks because the battery is run down.
This problem has happened randomly since June. It might be six weeks, one week, or only a few days between occurrences. The last two times it did it, I took the battery out of the truck, put it on a 6 amp charger overnight (about 8 hours), put it back in the truck, and it still wouldn't start, lights still flashing, etc. I gave it about 2-3 hours and both times the truck would start strongly and without incident, and the service engine soon light was off.
It rained here a LOT this summer, so I figured it might have something to do with driving through standing water at various speeds. The problem seems loosely associated with rainy weather (it rained last Saturday and I had to drive approximately 10-12 miles in it), but now it has started something new.
Yesterday afternoon, I tried to start the truck and it did the above described problem. I took the battery off and put it on a 10 amp charger for about six hours yesterday and left it disconnected overnight. Reconnected it this morning, gave it a couple of hours, still nothing. I remembered one time a while back that hitting the odometer reset button made the dash lights stop flashing. I held down the reset button and everything stayed lit up, but stopped flashing. Turned the key with the reset button held down and the truck started right up, but the dash kept flashing.
Turned it off, tried starting it without holding down the odometer reset, would crank, but not start. Tried starting it while holding down the odometer reset again, started right up. When I turned it off and tried it a third time, it just cranked for about six seconds before I gave up. This time, the oil, coolant temperature, battery, and service engine soon lights stayed lit (not flashing, they were solid) and the truck refused to start anymore.
Before it did the odometer reset BS I thought maybe I could figure it out because while it was a ghost of a problem that randomly came and went, it was always the same issue. Now I'm COMPLETELY lost.
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03 Alero 2.2 with no maf sensor.
I have both codes 141, 171. I am trying to figure out if I should just change rear oxygen sensor or something else.
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Just had the timing belt done and water pump installed last week and just now noticed this oil leak. I can't figure out where it would be coming from . 10 seconds after I fired up the car it starts coming out.
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