Truck is 1997 ford f150 2wd. Needs an upper ball joint. they all look the same on parts sites. I think there is a recall on the parking pawl adjustment. I lubed up the linkage and sometimes my truck will not engage its parking pawl...
View 14 RepliesI have a 2007 f-150 4X4 with bad upper ball joints, should I replace the lowers also or just the uppers and how do I check lowers?
View 3 RepliesOn my 2004 s-cab the steering is starting go 'notchy'?
I have considered, tight upper or lower ball joints, pump, rack or even a sticking rear diff, but not carried out any checks yet except oil level
My friend is changing out the ball joints, upper and lower, both sides. I have seen that the upper is typically done by replacing the whole arm, I don't plan on doing this. So, with a press and new ball joints, are there any nice tips from you all? Looking for useful info before I get into it. I did a search and have not found a thread like "ball joints-how to".
View 7 RepliesOn my 03 F350 4x4 SC 5.4L auto, I have to replace the tie rod end off the pitman arm, figured as long as I have it in the air, I'd check the ball joints because the tires are starting to wear in the inside. Hoping it's just a camber adjustment but my luck, it'll be ball joints, SO, with that said. I'm looking at Motorcraft, moog and driveworks brands, which are better? Are there other brands that would be better than these 3? Talking to my local mechanic he wants to put in moog brand, so I guess I'll be doing it myself if they're bad.
Any tips or tricks about installation procedure?
I have recently replaced both tie rod ends and found out when I took my truck for an alignment the mechanic stated that I had bad driver side ball joints (upper & lower) I confirmed this with SEARS and they stated that it was all the ball joints upper & lowers! the Haynes repair manual (1999-2010) states "ball joints on 1999 through 2013 2WD models were not replaceable".
View 4 RepliesOK, I haven't done a Ranger w/ torsion bars in the front , only coils. What is the best/safest way to do this?
View 1 RepliesBought the EX from my sister 2 years ago, I know that she's had the ball joints replaced several times and have read on here how some people have only gotten 20K miles out of a set. Anyway, I have the same clunk and I spent one Saturday changing them out ( as well as new brakes and rotors ) I still have the same cluck sound. I've just read a thread on the hubs rattling and its related to the needle bearings wearing out. I'll lock it in 4WD to see if the clunk goes away but I don't think that's going to work.
Would bad / incorrectly adjusted wheel bearings make this same sound? When doing the ball joints, I saw one set must have been rebuilt since the locknut looked brand new and the other side showed its been there a while.
I put new upper and lower ball joints on a few weeks ago. The front end is really tight after getting done. the steering wheel will not return to center. I feel like I am constantly on the wheel correcting. I had the alignment checked and they said it was good. I also put new 17" wheels and bigger tires on it at the same time.
We just towed our camper this past weekend and the truck and camper was all over the road. Is all of the above caused by new ball joints?
My brother crashed his 2000 Ford Ranger Pick up and did some front end damage. The spindle,( steering knuckle) and upper control arm need to be replaced. I told him, WHILE YOU ARE AT IT AND THE TRUCK IS ALL APART, you should replace the ball joints and tie rod ends.AND>>>if you replace one side you should do the other side too. Front end and steering parts should ALWAYS be replaced in pairs. Also get a wheel alignment! My other brother said, don't do that if they are still ok. why pay the extra money for parts you don't need. I said, you can do it cheap, OR,you can do it right. Who is right?
View 12 RepliesMy upper ball joint on the drivers side needs to be replaced, so obviously I'm going to replace all four.
Any recommendations on ball joints rockauto has a lot of options. I was just going to buy the motorcraft but thought I should ask here first.
The write up in the tech folder also includes parts I may need, are there any parts that I should buy to have on hand just in case?
I need to replace the ball joints on my truck, and it looks like a fairly formidable job. I replaced a brake rotor and a caliper the other day, so I'm not afraid to get in there - just not sure what I'm really getting myself into without a bit of guidance from you fine FTE folks.
What do I need to consider while I'm in there?
Is there a more recent write up with pictures, special tool list and/or part numbers?
Early 1999 needs ball joints on drivers side. Should I just do both sides?
Is it really necessary to pull the hub off to change ball joints?
View 9 RepliesHave some clunking I can feel through the steering wheel. Starting with checking ball joints.
1999 explorer Eddie Bauer.
Would I jack it up on the control arm to release any tensions? Any tips or tricks after doing a visual to find my clunking?
We have a 2001 passat wagon, V6 and we are told we need to replace right ball joints ...
View 5 Replies99 F250 super duty 7.3
Had new ball joints installed and alignment. Steering does not return to center. Returns a little on a tight turn like in town but difficult when just changing lanes in town or not. Took it to another shop and they said the ball joints were too tight. right side pretty tight and left side really tight. Moog ball joints. First mechanic says they will get better with a few miles on them. Second mechanic says not so.
Also, have new shocks but get a bouncing in the front when at 45 mph and goes away at almost 50 mph.
After 240,000 miles I had to get the ball joints on my 02 f250 2 wheel drive replaced and the alignment set. I notice that the steering is really tight. In fact that it will not attempt to return to center on the highway. The guy that did the work has 30 years experience doing this sort of thing and he says I just need to drive it and it will loosen up. Interested in hearing from others that have replaced ball joints; Is this normal? How long do they take to loosen up?
View 7 RepliesI own a 1.8 B5 passat, I went in today to get a inspection done on my car..
& I was told I need to replace both left and right ball joints, along with both of my axles.
Is this a common problem? is this some work i could do myself?
At about 160k I noticed that the driver side upper ball joint was worn out and had a lot of play on it , so i replaced the upper control arm including ball joint(can't just replace the stock ball joint). I bought an aftermarket one with grease nipple...
Now about 2 years and 50k later, whenever I drive through a bumpy field, it sounds like something is lose and rattling right by that front wheel ,so i took off the wheel and checked the ball joint but it still seems tight..
Although I put in too much grease and that cracked the rubber boot, just leave it or should i replace the ball joint because of that rubber boot that is ripped open?
2009 f150, XLT 4x4, 6.5 ft box ....
I recently had some work done on my 97 Honda Civic (manual), and asked them to adjust the parking brake while they were at it. They tightened it up as they usually do when they work on the car (the other work was not brake-related, although they DID replace my master cylinder just back in February). Two days later, my brakes began to fail (much like they had when I needed the master cylinder replaced). Turns out, something happened with the parking brake such that the cables seized or something and caused the regular brakes to overheat. Once they cooled down, the regular brakes were fine again, so they disconnected one of the cables for the parking brake and ordered replacement cables to be installed next week, for a not inconsequential sum. My question is: did they screw up when they adjusted the parking brake, such that I shouldn't really have to pay the full amount for this subsequent repair? Or was this likely inevitable?
View 12 Replies