Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2005 - Whining Noise - Loss Of Power And Hard Shifting In The Transmission
Dec 15, 2015
I posted awhile back about a loss of power and hard shifting in the transmission. I thought I had it fixed, well I kind of did...... Replaced the IWE that had locked in solid. I replaced both, added some transmission fluid, new front brakes, and a new belt back in July/August. Truck was fine for a few thousand......
Well it's back. Now I have a noticeable whine in the cab. I haven't pin pointed it yet. It is only audible when the truck is running from 35-50 mph. It is not RPM dependent, it doesn't change when I take it in or out of four wheel drive. It isn't there when the truck isn't moving.
The truck has 61,000 on it. I bought it with 35,000 on it because I wanted a vehicle that wouldn't nickel and dime me. Something I could climb in and not worry about making home.
Well here I am less than 30,000 miles later and I have had issues with the fuel controller under the bed, brake calipers sticking, IWE's, new shocks, broken front coil spring, recall for the airbag, tie rods, ball joints, power window regulator, and now what appears to be a transmission.
I come from a long line of "FORD" guys, but I am seriously considering something else. This 04-08 model has to be one of the worst pickups ever built by ford.
Are the newer ones any better? Other than routine maintenance a vehicle shouldn't have to be touched before 61,000.
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I'm new here to the F-150's forum although I've owned a few since 2001. I bought this F-150 '05 5.4L Lariat. Really nice truck. But when I purchased it, it had this weird noise inside the cabin. I thought because it had a camper on it that some tranny noise was coming up thru the camper and the rear cab. After taking camper off, the noise was still there. From everything I've read online, it could be rear pinion seal, differential bearing, tranny, front hubs, etc. I have left a video. Pay close attention to the little whine. Kinda hard to hear if your not listening for it.
Note- when i drive it is most definitely coming from the middle to rear of the truck. But I'm not ruling out anything. I have looked underneath the truck and the differential is dry and the driveshaft area near diff is dry. No leaks. I have not checked fluid in diff. Is there an easy way for these trucks? I have read and heard about adding an additive? The noise starts at about 10-15 mph all the way up to 80. I've never taken it past 80 but I'm sure it's still there.
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I just bought a 2005 fx4 and there is a whining or whirring sound coming from the rear of the truck when I hit around 70km/h. the second i let go of the accelerator it stops.
Today when I got home after a 15 minute highway drive, i got under the truck and felt the differential area. it was warm but not hot. and there was a wet spot on it. i wiped off a drop of oil. there was also a wet spot on the bottom, seemed to be just water? I'm not sure.
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i have a 2005 expedition with the 5.4 and 100k miles. Rescently it began to missfire badly and lost almost all power to the point where it nearly dies. I have seveal codes that are baffeling me. Bank 1 is rich bank 2 is lean(this may be the other way around, p0300(multiple cyl missfire) and then 4 individual cyl missfire codes. I changed all of the spark plugs with factory motocraft ones from ford as the old ones were shot. Seems to miss just as badly as before and is no where near driveable. What would cause one bank to be rich and one bank lean? I ohmed all of the coils when I had them out and they all are very close to each other with no odd ball ohm readings so I believe they are all ok. Any sugestions as to where to check next?
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my f150 running right so i can enjoy it like everyone else does. I have a 2005 Ford f150 with a 5.4 auto.
It has a rough idle(shakes the truck), very little power, and poor gas mileage. Randomly It will throw a code for misfire on 1 and/or 3 on start up only. It does seem to perform better within the first few of starting but dies right off after that. In fact i got stuck in the snow the other day and it could barely break the tires loose to try and get it out (almost put in 4low cause i didn't want to hurt the trans). I have replaced:
Cats
Fuel pump
Plugs (motorcraft)
Random Coils
Did the timing chains and phasers
MAF
All new injectors
Intake gasket
Was at my mechanics and had a scanner on it and at idle the 1-4 cylinders are all show a negative cylinder contribution. But when you rev it up they all go to 0 across the board. Was kind of thinking about the Variable Timing solenoid.
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2005 F150, 5.4 motor. Truck would loose power and no throttle response. Shutting off and restarting, ran fine. No codes showing. Cleaned throttle body and plate, reassembled. Key left on for 20 minutes. Tried to start vehicle. Making a clicking sound, dash lights flashing on and off when hear clicking sound when trying to start vehicle. when key turned to on position, dash lights go off except check engine light. When checked, no codes shown.
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I have a 2005 F-150XLT with the Triton 5.4L. The other day while driving on side roads (Paved, not back roads) I noticed my CEL on and it was blinking. There was a very rough idle as well as a big loss of power. When I pressed the gas pedal it was sluggish to say the least. I have yet to get a computer on it, since I had to order one. There is also a light gas smell, only smells near the rear of the truck. From what I am guessing, I think it is either a spark plur or a coil over pack, Truck has about 56K on it.
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I have had the check engine light on for a while now with the truck shuttering and bucking along with loss of power. Feels like there is something holding back the power. Just a couple days ago I was driving on the freeway and all of a sudden it felt like I was in neutral, tried to accelerate but the engine revved but wouldn't go anywhere, I clicked the overdrive on and it went into gear and I was able to drive home. Now every time I drive it, it goes a block or two in drive then again feels like neutral, put in overdrive and it goes into gear. I just put in new ignition coils.
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07 f150 screw 5.4 104+ miles, loss of power and ticking noise (sounds like no oil)on passengers side, no engine light, no codes, ford dealer changed coil packs and plugs, inspected valve gear on passengers side and nothing seemed out of spec, no broken springs, followers, lifters, manifolds on both sides have been replaced very recently.
The ticking noise began about a week after an oil change, truck runs fine but no power/sluggish. exhaust is magnaflow side exit and seems to be louder inside the cab than usual or could be just me.
Truck had a miss that i was trying to find prior to oil change and ticking noise. it ran well for a week with the tick before (and miss) the loss of power which started after a 30 min drive under load up hill. it almost felt and sounded as if the muffler was dragging on the road for about 100 feet, ran fine for two miles until it was shutdown. restarted fine but flat when you get into it.
Clogged cat/cats; internal damage to muffler, oil issue even tho the gauge reads fine.
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I have a 2005 F150 5.4 FX4 and I had these two codes thrown over the past week/few days...P0325 and P1000 (pictures below of descriptions...I have an edge programmer and have been running it on the highest setting for a while now but always run premium fuel. I got these codes and reset them and they came right back. I then reset the cpu to the factory programming and they still keep coming back. I still have premium in it and it seems like when you hammer it that it falls flat on its face! It runs good and pretty smooth but seems like it has no power when throttle is pushed hard. It seems like it has a small vibration at about 3,000 RPM but only for a few seconds and then smooths right back out again. The truck has 88,000 miles and I just put new Motorcraft plugs in it about 6,000 miles ago. Not sure what I should do or what is the next step.
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I have a 2005 Ford Focus. It has recently begun losing power. The RPMs will race while the speed steadily drops (especially on hills but it's started doing it on lesser inclines). It's been accompanied at times by my car shifting hard and the overdrive off light flashing orange until I pull over and turn it off. When I start it again the light clears. There are no other warning lights. I've taken it to my mechanic twice. He's serviced the transmission, replaced the spark plugs and the fuel filter. He's run the diagnostics and nothing is showing up.
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The car on cruise control sometimes randomly looses speed & downshifts to 3 and raise rpms quickly to gain the set cruise control speed again."
Vehicle Background: bought it from the original owner, the fuel gauge showed empty on a full tank of gas and I passed on the car, owner called a week later and said they installed a used PCM and everything now works, and it did, I bought it since it was a really clean car.
After driving on highway with cruise control set it would randomly loose power and downshift and then regain speed from being set on cruise control, mostly uphills and downhills but also straights sometimes and it would loose 7-8 mphs not the 1-3 mph loss that is typical of some other cars on cruise.
Engine has been rebuilt to success, other then this issue, the car drives like a dream and doesn't burn a drop of oil. Plenty of power compared to before the rebuild as well.
I learned from a DIY oil consumption fix on a 98 corolla that removing throttle body and cleaning it and the IACV, makes the vehicle idle within stock spec, really quiet and also improves the throttle response, I attempt this on the GT-S.
So I open up the airbox to make room to clean my throttle body and the 2 nuts were fairly loose, but the 2 bottom bolts were completely out that attach the throttle body to the intake manifold and only holding their place because of the tight fit in that area from all the hoses. This wasn't even touched during the engine rebuild.
I remove everything, looks dirty as [censored] and the intake has some oil in it, which I use brake parts cleaner to dry and use air to blow off and only got to remove maybe 30% of it from the inside of the intake. I then also remove the IACV to find it REALLY dirty like all the ones I had open so far and I go to town and cleaner both that and throttle body and replace both the gaskets as well.
Upon completion the vehicle's throttle response becomes AMAZING compared to before and it seem like a proper GT-S rather then a slow car which before had a slower acceleration then my 01 GT. I drive the same route home of 25 miles, the car NEVER once down shifts and has plenty of power and I'm HAPPY!
Well guess what, the issue is back now, I open the air box and both the nuts and the bolts seems firmly tight. I loosen everything up to still see the oil in the intake(though I only got to remove/dry30% the first time), brand new OEM PCV valve in the car 5k ago and I followed the PCV Valve pipe to the intake and it was dry from the inside as well.
when the vehicle is driven around and it returns to idle, it seems to hesitate(I think not 100% since it could be the engine just slowing down didn't do it before the throttle body cleaning though) for less then a second when going back to idle speed, it idles perfectly at around 750 rpms though. Questions:
1. What could be causing the oil in the intake? is it just the old oil what has been in the intake since before I bought it? The car doesn't burn any oil in the last 5k since the engine rebuild.
2. Could it be the PCM/VCM is causing the random power loss with cruise control on? which was a problem that was so called fixed using used parts but all the other automatic functions work perfectly.
3. Could it be the Cruise Control it self, apparently I can snag one from a local pick n pull for like 8 bucks (I think, listed on website)
4. Could it be this issue listed in this link? [URL] ..... , bad throttle position sensor? could it be that I cleaned the idle air control valve too roughly to get that slight hesitation when returning to idle?
5. Could it be the Throttle body itself in the GT-S? Did I clean it too aggressively, and ruined the round opening, which is causing the random loss of power? I had my cuzin do the throttle body removal and cleaning DIY step by step on our 99 corolla and he used a gasket remover (attached to a power tool) to clean up the dirt/oil build up inside the round opening and it started to give him jerks driving at highway speeds, constantly...We used the 98 corolla's gently cleaned throttle body in the 99 corolla and immediately issue solved. The proper working throttle body in the 98 corolla is a used replacement one as I aggressively cleaned the round opening in the original one and had hesitation issues as well.
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2008 F150 HD Payload package with 5.4L and 4spd auto, 61,000 miles.
Recently developed a whining sound coming from the transmission or somewhere else in the drivetrain. Does not sound like rear axle because it changes pitch with the change of gears. I proved this by disengaging OD while driving and the whine was higher pitched once the transmission down shifted. I did some other research and found a reference to the #9 bearing going bad in a 4R75 trasnmission in a Crown Victoria. I am going to fight for any repair to be covered by the powertrain warranty even though it just clicked 61,000. The dealer has done ALL maintenance on this truck since it was new (following severe duty recommendations).
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My F150 has started whining while driving down the road or sitting still. It gets louder as the RPMs increase. I have also noticed that the transmission has started taking longer / slipping going into 2nd gear. I also smelled the transmission fluid and it has an "odd" odor to it. Could the transmission going out cause this noise?
Here is a vid of the noise : 05 f150 - YouTube....
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I'm having problems with my 6r140 in my 2011, the truck is an early build around 8/2010 I believe.
After cold soak when shifting into reverse after allowing engine to warm a bit the transmission almost always slams hard into reverse.
After that shifting from 1-3 is awful, the transmission will try to go into 3rd but downshift to 1st then fail to go back into 3rd multiple times. This situation is extremely dangerous when trying to pull into traffic.
Oh and once the transmission gets into 3rd it will skip 4th and go right into 5th. There is only 94k miles on this transmission/truck.
I just bought this truck about a month ago, does this sound like an issue with the solenoids in the valve body?
I'm very mechanically inclined and can swap them if need be but now we're talking few hundred in solenoids and then getting the trucks pcm flashed right?
Also fluid has been changed and I used mercon lv.
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This is is a truck I hardly know anything about. My wife bought it while I was deployed for herself and when it comes to vehicles she's an idiot. No, really she told me she bought it because at horse shows everyone else has one.
I noticed an oil leak and had a reputable shop look at it. They told me it was coming from some seals on the turbo. Long story short there is a brand new turbo on there, stock replacement. Now it seems very under powered and shifts hard. Pressing down anything more than 25% throttle will cause hard shifting or no shifting at all. It'll stay in second until I ease off the throttle.
I tried searching a few terms but I'm not sure what to look for. I don't know if someone has messed with the tuning. Broken clamp on the turbo. Replaced and everything is back to normal...
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I've been noticing more and more lately that while my trucks in 1st or maybe 2nd gear, say, slowly coasting around a parking lot for example, there's a whining noise coming from either the rearend or the tranny (cant tell which). It gets louder and more high pitched as I move faster then disappears as soon as the truck shifts gears..
Is this something serious like my transmission on its way out? From what I gather a lot of people seem to have a similar thing going on.. From what I can remember my truck has done this since I bought it, but lately (and maybe its just me) I seem to notice it more like maybe its getting louder..
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I noticed my engine whine more than it usual since the last few days. So, I took it to the dealership and have them check. They said that it is the idler pulley going bad. Just want to see some info on diagnosis.
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I have 2005 F150 XLT 5.4 litre engine and my battery light comes on after letting the truck run on idle or sometimes driving.
Last Saturday went out drove it heater on and radio on I smelled something coming from the heater kinda like burning wire smell didn't think anything of it no smoke from heater (indicating the core was bad) no lights on the cluster nothing; went into the bank let it run came back out my battery light on. Drove it home and while driving the light goes off.
Opened the hood and the smell was coming from the alternator. So I turned the truck off. Let it sit for an hour or so then I took my voltmeter to see if the battery was good. The battery was 12.4v with engine off. Checked my battery connection for corrosion or loose connections everything was tight there was some dust on the battery terminals so I brushed them off. I checked the battery cable that goes from positive to the alternator where it connects to the alternator with that nut it was good, clean and tight.
So I started the engine up and I can hear a whining noise from one of the pulleys. Let it idle for 2 minutes no battery light so I put my voltmeter on the battery it read 13.8v, so I turned on the A/C, head lights, radio and the heater tried again the voltage dropped down to 11.9v then the battery light came back on. Also through all this my battery gauge in the cluster always stays a half way mark doesn't drop or go high. Next with the engine turned off I took the belt off checked the pulleys the idler pulleys seem fine and the belt doesn't show any glazing but the alternator was hot almost like touching a hot exhaust manifold.
So for the last 3 days I have been trying to come up with how to resolve this issue obviously it could be the alternator going bad but the battery has never lost a charge yet I let the truck sit for these past 3 days and today I started the truck and it started right up I don't see any dimming lights except it has a whining noise and the battery light didn't come on immediately I let it run for 5-10 minutes before it came on; I even drove it around the block and the whining noise gets louder every time I step on the gas. To me it's either I need new alternator, tension pulley is bad or the idler pulleys are bad but they turn fine.
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I noticed my engine whine more than it usual since the last few days. So, I took it to the dealership and have them check. They said that it is the idler pulley going bad.
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'05 F150 5.4 Sounds like a whining noise from the front end when turning to the right or going straight. Goes away on left turns. Thought it was tire whine but put originals back on and got same thing. 13.5x35 verses 275 Truck has a Fabtech 6" lift. Right CV axle seems tight, rotor assembly replace 2k miles ago. Any other option before going into front diff?
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