My 2006 F150 with 77k seized up on friday. Sounds like a bad injector flooded the engine, caused hydrolock, and then bent a rod. I called the dealership today and they said the only fix is a new engine. I have 3 payments still left and now the dealership is telling me I gotta buy a new engine.
View 14 RepliesYesterday driving to work felt the engine missing, on the way home got a CEL pulled the code when I got home it was P0302, so I started with the easy and put a new coil pack, same issue, so I prayed and pulled the plug (it didn't break). Put a new plug and a second new coil pack (just to be sure, and yes I keep extras dang 5.4). cleared codes and started it this time got P0202 Ford - Injector Circuit Malfunction Cylinder 2, so I checked Ohms on #2 and it was 12.6, #1, 3, 5,6 all have 13 Ohms, didn't check #4, 7, or 8 because my big hands and the probes on my multi meter. Checked the wires on all of them and have 12 volts with key on, not running. I read another check to put blk in pin and red on pos batt terminal, and that it was supposed to go 12 to 0 off and on with engine running, All of mine went up to 14 volts and stayed no switching. Is there something I am missing to check before replacing the injector on #2?
View 6 RepliesI have a 04 f150 and the rear rotors are seized on and how to get them off WITHOUT destroying the rotors. i need to work on the ebrakes.
View 3 RepliesI just got my new roush catback exhaust and I seem to have run into a wall in the installation. I cant seem to take out the factory hangers.
View 2 RepliesI bought a 2005 F150 supercrew w/ 5.4 Triton engine brand new. It now has 16000 miles on it and all was well until...
I was driving to work 2 days ago and all of a sudden my truck started acting all weird. I couldn't accelerate and it seemed as though I was driving over rumble strips. I went directly to the garage and they told me that 2 fuel injectors mal-functioned and that flooded everything with gas. I needed 2 injectors and 8 spark plugs. The next day the garage called and said that they replaced the parts but now there is a terrible knocking noise and that I needed a new engine.
I am not a car wiz so what other things should I be aware of? What other questions should I be asking?
Well I believe I finally had the opportunity to experience the wide open injector issue. I was driving to work and all of a sudden at a stop light my truck started shaking bad. It went away but as I took off every so often it would shake. I thought it was a tire or front end component so I pulled over and just got overwhelmed with the smell of gas. I drove 30 miles back home and check engine light blinked the whole way and truck ran . Also wasted at least a 1/4 tank of gas and the a/c wouldn't blow cold air either. Hooked it up to read DTC codes and got P0172, P0300, P0303, P0304, P0316 and P2196.
View 14 RepliesSubject : Vehicle 1992 Ford Truck F-150 300cu. inch
Problem : Electrical
Description : Engine would stop running and as long the key switch was in the on position the electrical fuel pump would keep running and the end result would be a gas flooded engine. There was no way to predict when or where this occurrence would happen. It may be at a busy intersection or immediately after start up in the early morning. It may do this two or three times a week and then go a month without doing this, just about the time I thought everything was alright it would start up again.
I used just about every mechanic I could think of to diagnosis the problem. The fuel pressure switches were changed, map sensor, computer board, new distributor coil and module.A new alternator was also put on the truck to no avail.This truck was taken to a ford dealer garage. In my mind this would the the "Mayo clinical" for a sick Ford vehicle. The truck stayed there for about two weeks and left with the same problem it had arrived with.
Not long afterwards it came into my mind to install a new Ignition coil . That fixed the problem ! The truck ran good for about three months and then started the same thing again. I knew I was on top of the problem. I then put an old used Ignition coil on and it lasted about two weeks. Again resulting in the same problem. I then bought an expensive coil made in the USA "Blue Streak Brand". That has been about 5 years ago. The truck has never caused me any problems since.
My 04 F-150 has recently been blowing these two codes. I've replaced the coil pack already and it is still making the check engine line come off. Just put some injector cleaner in the tank last night, so that might take a while to work through. What I should be looking for?
View 8 RepliesFour days ago, shortly after a hurricane. I tried starting my car and it wouldn't start. The lights, radio, and AC would turn on but the engine wouldn't make a sound. I left the car at my father's for four days without looking at it. I open the trunk to check the battery, and the well with the battery and spare tire is filled with water. The battery was almost completely submerged except for the top inch of the battery where the cables are connected. There is a metal connector between two cables that is completely rusted from the water. My question is, what do I need to do/get in order to get my car running again.
View 3 RepliesI'm a little bit low on coolant and I was searching around for it on the Internet and all I need to do is add a tiny bit but I'm not sure which one to go with ? And when I mean a tiny bit I mean it's right under the bottom Fill Line.
View 4 RepliesI was working on trailer lights and now no trailer lights and relays click but eng no crank. Batt has 12volts.
View 1 RepliesEngine seems to knock real bad after engine gets hot like its out of time if unplug the vvt solenoids it runs great something is telling them to adjust timing to much.
When it came in it had a cam code and i found cam sensor was broken it had new installed found part of other in engine. Phaser was damaged replaced it. still did it after.
Then I pulled front of engine apart found chain tensioner leaking oil around gasket and then we decided to re time chain. If still doing it.Will let know after air mass meter.
PS no codes at this time
[URL] ....
2006 Ford F150 4x4 - Ford
[URL] .....
We have a 2006 F150 w/new engine, new everything but transmission and cat. converter. When driving in warm weather with the AC on and at low speeds or idle the engine will knock and want to cut out but you rev and turn off the AC and it stops. Only with AC on. We replaced fuel filter, fan throttle took to dealer and updated the software which it stopped for 3 days and started again today. Could it have to do with AC compressor or low refrigerant?
View 4 RepliesMy 2006 f150 was making a noise that's coming from the engine. It sound like rocks in the engine. When I'm going 50-60 MPH the engine starts to make a sounds like rocks in the engine. What's happening. When I go about 40 it stops.
View 12 Replies2006 STX 4.6 .... I recently changed my oil a couple of weeks back. I've noticed spots of oil on the driveway. I thought it may be coming from the oil pan drain plug but i checked it and it seems to be coming from where the transmission connects to the engine. Lotta oil on the bell housing. That's where it looks like it's dripping off of. Could it be the rear main seal?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2006 F150 that cranks but will not start. I sprayed ether into intake and got it to start but engine dies if gas pedal pressed. It idles after starting just will not accelerate.
View 8 RepliesYesterday evening I drove through a flooded area of the road, probably about 1.5 feet deep. I did not realize it was quite that deep. The water came through the floor, and probably soaked my ECU.
The engine died, but will idle very rough. I doubt I got water in the cylinders, not much at least, because the engine turned over no problem. I also have an air filter that would be difficult to get too much water into from the way it is situated.
It is putting out white smoke that smells like gas (a lot initially, now not as much), and the engine is smoking a little as well...white, gas odor...I think it is coming out around the exhaust manifold.4
It is running very rough, sounds like from 2 cylinders, and after letting it idle in the hopes of drying everything out, I noticed that the fuel gauge is at empty...it was at 3/4 earlier.
What should I start by doing?
2006 F150 Triton 5.4 Motor... It's been over a months journey with fixing this truck....
How it started: had an oil change, a while back, on long drive after, check engine light started flashing as I accelerated up hill so I pulled over and in a while it was ok, but couldn't get on the gas too much, or it would cause that flashy light thing.
So fast forward to now, after driving it with an intermittent miss for a while, was driving it to work and the miss became a shudder, and she stopped going over 30-40, and runs extremely rough.
Steady but loud idle.
Replaced all plugs with motocraft plugs and new coils all around. No change.
Finally hooked it up to a computer and got random misfires, now it's saying
P0174 bank 2 too lean,
But it's bank ONE that's the only side misfiring.
Here are the freeze frame details:
Frame 1 Mod $00
MIL Status Off
Troub Code P0174
Abslt TPS 24.3%
Eng speed 1665
Baro PRS 71 kpa
Calc Load 100%
[Code].....
On my 2006 Ford F150 2WD, v6 automatic, the overdrive dash lamp is blinking, I get a engine light and the code I get is a P0743. That indicates the solenoid or wiring is bad, but everything works just fine. The transmission is running fine, clear fluid - no odor. The overdrive works and the truck shifts like new. When I start, the "OD-OFF" light immediately starts blinking and never changes. I can activate the OD normally and it doesn't effect the blinking light.
Where to start? I suspect that since all is functioning well, the issue is with the signal to the ecm? By the way, I can clear the code so that the engine light goes off, but the "OD-OFF" light remains blinking.
I have a 2006 F150 4x4 5.4. For a long time it idled poorly and would take 2 trys to start. Today it started shuddering and the engine light came on. The engine light went off but it still runs rough and smells of gas from the exhaust. It is not very drivable and I can't afford to take it in. I have lots of mechanical experience but not with this electronic junk and need diagnosing the problem. I have a code tester and this is what it said.
P0301 Cyl 1 Miss
P0304 Cyl 4 Miss
P0300 Random Multiple Misfire Detected
P2196 O2 Sensor Signal
Biased/ Stuck Rich
Bank 1 Sensor 1
I recently purchased an '08 F-350 4x4 Lariet Supercab 6.4l and was told by the 3rd party inspection that it needs rear brake pads (2mm left). Are the caliper pistons retractable without having the pistons seize down the road? HOw about the fronts? See below.
I ask as on my '06 F-250 XLT 4x2 5.4l the rear calipers seized without even doing a pad change and the fronts seized about 100 miles after a pad change. Come to find out it is a common problem with the '06 and the calipers either have to be replaced or rebuilt when changing pads. Now I've been "told" to expect the same with the '08.