Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2007 5.4L V8 Idles Very Rough / Shaking When Stopped
Apr 13, 2007
I have an 07 f150 v8 5.4 and it idles very rough. When i start it it seems to start really rough and just about everytime im stopped its shaking just enough to annoy me. Do you think its the spark plugs? I took into the dealer about a month ago and they said everything was fine. But its still doing the same thing. Also the A/C tottaly sucks is that they way it is? When I accelerate the cold air gets kinda warm and it doesn't get cold until i get up to speed.
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I am trying to solve a mystery on my mom's truck. It's an '06 4.2L F-150 STX with about 133k miles. It had a check engine light on until today- I cleaned the TB and changed air filter yesterday, and both were filthy. Code vanished later on while driving.
I want to check the PCV because the truck idles high and rough in any setting from park to OD, stopped or moving. Worse when stopped though. Entire coil pack has already been changed due to previous misfire problems. This feels similar to a misfire but without the acceleration hesitation. It has also had a recent oil change, and fuel/oil filter change as well.
There is only one hose connecting to the intake on this truck, and it appears to be a vapor line of some sort to the valve cover, but isn't a PCV cause it's just a hollow tube. There is nothing else coming out of the TB at all, except for the throttle control cable. I don't even seen any nipples or connections or holes where a PCV hose or valve should go. I thought it was on the passenger side, under the TB... but there is nothing here at all. I'm stumped.
I am beginning to think the truck just does not have one at all, which I know for a fact is impossible. I have traced every line on this motor from top to bottom, and I do not see it. Should have a heater on it I assume? What else can make the truck so rough? I don't buy it that "it's just that way". That is complete, lazy, BS. I have had/driven many trucks; 4x4s, supercrew, diesels, jeeps, dump trucks... I have NEVER had a truck run as badly and roughly as this one does. Heck, a twin-turbo 700HP diesel doesn't run this roughly.
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I have a 2007 Ford F-150 5.4l v8...
Codes
P0012 int cam position timing over ret bank 1
P0022 int cam position timing over ret bank 2
P0300 random Missfire detected
P0316 engine misfire detected on start up
P0340 cam position sensor curcuit fault
P0345 cmp sensor a circuit problem bank 2
Starts rough, idles rough and stalls occur often when start, after it runs for 5 minutes and sometimes dint starts at all. I replaced spark plugs, coils, cam shaft sensors and had oil changes done and. No effect.
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I recently replaced the plugs cuz I had a rough idle all the time. During plug change when I discovered they had already been changed I found one that had a burned off electrode. Does this mean a lean condition exists?
After plug change it runs smoothly but only after 10 min warmup in our canadian winters. I can drive it when its not warm but seems to have less than full power and idles very badly after driving w/o proper warmup.
Next I changed fuel filter and checked fpdm, it was a little rusty but not bad so i just mounted it 1/4 off steel to prevent further rusting.
Since then I have installed a programmer [diablosport] but found no codes since i had battery disconnected for filter change. no new codes in last few weeks since.
So do I have a lean running cylinder causing this poor cold idle or a rich cylinder? It must be a clogged or dripping fuel injector right?
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On my way into work this morning, my 06 with the 5.4 started running very rough/shaking at low rpms. I could kick it out of overdrive and it would smooth out and seemingly be fine at higher rpms.
This worked out for a couple of miles until the truck just died on me completely. The Edge is showing po351, 352, 353......358 codes. Ignition coil Primary/Secondary circuit fault on every cylinder.
I'm thinking its unlikely that every coil failed simultaneously....computer? When I try to start the truck, it will try to hit on a cylinder or two, but will not run.
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2007 5.4 . Starts good , idles all day. As soon as you try to rev it, it stumbles rattles etc. Shut it off, wait a second, restart then Idles fine. I watched live Data and it carries on when the VVT solenoids become active (above 800 rpm).There duty cycle goes to 60-70 percent while revving. I think it Is just one side of the engine. Could be VVT solenoids sticking on? yes ? No?
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I have a 2007 Ford Expedition with approx 135k miles with a 5.4. At approx 45 miles per hours it starts shaking and shuttering. It feels almost like you ran over one of those traffic bumps. I've had quite a few issues I've been working so I recently changed all my plugs with motorcraft platinum and all new COPs.
When I am going approx 45 miles per hour it will shutter for about 1-2 seconds with overdrive on. You can almost time it that it will do it every 4 seconds. With overdrive off, you can feel something dragging down the engine and hear a light grinding noise or a mechanical sound but the shuttering is less. I feel there is something definitely cycling approx every 4 seconds.
When i am doing heavy acceleration I feel that it has adequate power and now that I've replace the plugs/cops I don't feel any significant misses etc under hard acceleration (before I changed the plugs/cops I did feel misses).
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After sitting engine cranks longer than it usually did before it starts. idles a little rough. engine light comes on after it been running about 30 sec for 1 min. after that seems to run fine.check codes po446 and p1633 always come up. if you let sit a bit with key on starts right up.replaced gas cap checked evap lines, and changed filter no luck. Did notice with lines off evap solenoid key off or on i can blow through it. that doesn't sound right.
Checked fuel pressure. key on jumps to 90psi then falls to 55psi and stays. turn off key and leaked off 10psi in 5 min.start engine while watching gauge does the same as when the key on except it falls to 30 to 35 psi and bounces between them. i think this is way low. What is the correct pressure? Shut off engine and drops to 20 in 5 min. Next I plugged line on test tee going to fuel rail and tested same results as key on. the convinced fuel pump was bad since regulator and check is there. replaced pump. problem still there.
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I have a 2008 Ford Focus with 122k miles in good condition, nothing ever replaced except an engine mount, shocks, and coolant thermostat and all regular maintenance.
In the last four months I have had a few instances of the car shaking during my commute. Only happens when I am either stopped at an exit ramp or stopped during heavy traffic on the highway. It can happen anywhere from 10-30 minutes into my commute. Feels like either the road is shaking from an earthquake or godzilla is standing behind it and pushing it back and forth. It's very strong but very smooth and slow. Like being on a boat. There is no vibration in the steering wheel or any other parts and no noise associated with it. It goes away once I start driving again.
I had a cracked engine mount once that produced a lot of vibration and rattling, and this shaking doesn't feel or sound anything remotely like that one, so I am doubtful that it has the do with the mounts (just had that one replaced a couple months ago anyway).
This is also extremely intermittent. Maybe once a month at most, although the time span in between occurrences seems to be shorter so that's why I am investigating. And when it happens, it's just once during my entire drive and then not again for another few weeks or so. So it would be hard to take it into a mechanic to reproduce.
What could this be? I've been thinking about getting a new car and this has me worried that I'm entering into the timeframe with this one where major things start breaking.
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I have a 2007 F-150. Here is the story....
Last summer the truck was idling rough and seemed to be stumbling a bit. Took it to the dealership and had it diagnosed. Had a mis-fire code on cylinders 1 and 3. I was told to do the spark plugs and clean the MAF. After replacing all plugs and cleaning the MAF the truck seemed to run better but it didnt last long before it started doing the same thing. My Edge Evolution started showing misfire codes in cylinders 1 and 3 again and the truck is stumbling like crazy. Here is what i have done:
1. Swapped the plugs from cyl. 1 and 3 with cyl. 5 and 7 and the problem followed.
2. I replaced the bad plugs with new ones and i no longer get a code for those cylinders but the truck is still acting the same.
Now I am getting two codes saying the system is running rich on bank 1 and 2 and a misfire code in cylinder 4. I cleaned the K&N filter and replaced the MAF but it is still the same. The truck stumbles horribly under a load and has NO power.
History:
2007 F-150 5.4L Lariat
75K miles +/-
K&N Filter
Edge Evolution (has been kept in stock mode)
new spark plugs last summer
new MAF (this week)
New Fuel filter (two summers ago)
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My 07 F-150 5.4 has a rough idle during a cold start for about 1 minute. It happens mostly when the weather is chilly or cold. Also after the first start it doesn't do it the rest of the day. Of coarse they can't find anything wrong and tell me there are no updates for anything like that.
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I have 07 sscrew with 5.4. 93,000 miles. At start up truck runs perfect. After 20-30 minutes of running motor will start to start running rough at low rpm. Diesel sound. I can rev up and motor clears up and idles fine. Should I replace VCT solenoids? Or phasers? Or both at one time??
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Still showing the same codes (per repairman) and still having the intermittent rough idle at low speeds when the engine is warm. It has been so intermittent that I could almost live with it.
So repair guys first replaces the VCT's and runs fine until warmed up and the problem reoccurs with the same codes. He replaces both cam phasers and tensioners today and still same problem and same codes which point to the VCT and cam phasers.
Truck has 80k, city driven, oil changed every 3k or so. Burns ethanol and still runs great at speeds over 10 mph even when this problem appears.
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I have a 2008 2.4L Sonata GLS with 96K mi. It is hard to start and idles rough. I cleaned some components and changed spark plugs. I disconnected the negative battery cable to see if it would reset and relearn settings. Took a 15 mi drive and read codes and P0016 was pending, it was still idling rough and acceleration was still under par. I then cleared the code. I purchased a new cam sensor and compared the Ohm readings between the old and new Cam position sensor. The Ohm readings were different by 50% so I assumed the old was indeed bad.
I installed the new sensor, repeated battery disconnect for 10 min, then restarted engine. It was still idling rough (maybe a little better) so I rechecked for codes. P0016 was still a pending code. I cleared the code and P0016 cam right back. The battery is good (no charging issues), timing chain is original (no noise). Is there a way to test the crank position sensor before buying a new one? I've also seen in posts the Oil Control Valve (OCV) affects timing and seems to be a problem for these vehicles, however I have not received that code (P0011). I can limp it to work but will have to take it in if I cannot solve this soon. If it ends up being a timing chain problem what ballpark price should I expect to pay to have it done.
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I have a 2007 F150 XLT, Supercab 6.5' bed, 4x4 5.4 Automatic with 67000 miles on it. Its not a Flex Fuel
Over the past couple of weeks it would get go through random rough idling spell or stall going down the road. If it was sitting it would idle clear down to 200 RPM's and just sound like an old 'chitty-chitty-bang-bang' car, not a modern marvel of Ford engineering!
I noticed it particularly does it this on an incline. Initially I fixed it by just coasting to where it was flat. I normally keep it above half a tank so i dont think its a fuel pump not getting fed. So I replaced the fuel filter yesterday hoping it was full or clogged, no changed.
This morning it would start at all, I removed the negative terminal on the battery, rolled to the level, tried it 30 times. Nothing. I checked all of my connectors under the hood and the 2 below the cab under the plastic cover. Everything was connected. I disconnected the fuel pressure sensor and it fired right up and runs smoother than since I've owned it.
It hasn't had any CEL lights, until I disconnected that sensor. Should I drop the tank and clean it? Is there any special gasket kits or connectors I should be aware of? Should I just replace that sensor? Is it connected with a chain of sensors I should check first?
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Having an issue with my wife's 2007 camry V6. We got the car new and the orig battery lasted over 3 years until a trip NY where the intr light was left on for a couple of days. After several tries, the battery took a jump from a tow truck and got us home. The car ran for a few days then we had starting issues as well as the dash lights would flicker and the speedo neelde would jump along with the RPM gauge. So we changed out the battery.
Now we only get about a year per battery. We also noticed the drained batteries are typically accompanied with misfiring and a bad coilpack. Not sure how that fits into the equation but we have changed 3 of the 6 coil packs. The most recent batt swap only lasted 7 months. The flickering lights and jumping RPM n Speedo needles happen last firday when my wife called me to say "its at it again" driving rough, ABS light, Ck eng light on and flashing.
She got home late and parked it in the garage. The next morning i went out to inspect and it wouldn't start. Fast clicking sound of a dead batt. I changed the battery (Costco batt fitment 24f i believe) yesterday (Monday). She called this morning and the car is still riding rough and the ck eng light is on. My guess is another coilpack.
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I have really taken care of this 2011 SF Limited with the 3.5 V6 but it has always seemed to idle rough at a red light/stop sign while in drive. Is this common for all the 3.5 V6 engines? I run a fuel cleaner through it before every syn oil change and also use top tier gas. It drives nice but like I said, at a stop in drive it seems to run rough at around 500-550 rpm's.
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I have an 05 150, 5.4l, My truck idles around 600 rpm when warm, I think that may be slightly low. Not sure what to check on.
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Just recently my Prius Taxi with 340,000+Km has developed a little problem,it starts fine but after 20-30 seconds it begins to feel like it's not running properly on all four cylinders,if i go to the exhaust pipe it seems like it's spluttering slightly.
Yesterday I changed the plugs,checked air filter and all connections,everything fine, when I accelerate it feels hesitant but after the car gets up to temp it seems to go away,it only happens when i start it first thing or if it's been left for a few hours, it's never had the throttle body cleaned and I'm wondering if what I'm describing is a symptom of this?
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Just picked up my 2004 Prius from the Toyota dealer body shop. The driver's side was scraped by someone who wanted to be in my lane. Fortunately, we were only going 35 mph. The rear door skin had to be replaced, and most of the side had to be prepped and painted. There are a few silly mistakes: they forgot to replace the driver's door plug, forgot to replace a lower clip, and smudged a tiny area new paint on the bumper. I brought that to their attention and they are going to take care of it... they have to order the plug and clip.
However, as soon as that conversation was complete, it was time for them to close shop. I sat in my Prius, started it, and the check engine light was on. Wasn't on when I dropped it off for the repairs. Also, on the way home, I noticed the engine wasn't turning off when I came to a complete stop (even though the animation says it was off). At idle, the engine is also rough. Looked at the charge bars, and well, there were only two bars showing.
I thought perhaps, though it's not done this before without the animation screen showing it, the engine was on merely to recharge the traction battery. On the way home, the traction battery returned to full charge (green), but the engine still was not turning off when the vehicle was at a complete stop... not was it turning off when coasting... and when arriving home, even with the car in park... and still idling rough. All the while, the animation on the screen is indicating the engine should be off.
When I replaced the traction battery three years ago, I also replaced the 12v with an yellow top Optima. I wouldn't think the Optima is already going bad. I also do not believe in coincidence. I wonder if perhaps some bad fumes have tainted the MAF, or who knows.
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I just bought an 04 camry 4 cylinder. It was running perfect when I got it but the moment we got home it threw a CEL. The code was for an upstream o2 sensor, however I did a resistance test and the heater circuit is fine. I did a voltage test on the blue and white wires and I got 3.3v and 2.9v. I don't remember which wire gave me which voltage at the moment. I would like to know if this data is a good thing or if it's broken. I do not have any data to go off of, and I couldn't find the factory service manual online. Its also worth mentioning that it idles very rough and the catalytic converter is giving a rotten egg smell but not all the time. When neither of these things happen the CEL goes away. I do not want to start throwing parts at it.
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