Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Acceleration Seems Sluggish When Getting On The Interstate
Aug 4, 2016
2007 F150 King Ranche 4wd 5.4 192000 miles.
I started noticing a little stutter when trying to hold 45 mph if I hit a mild incline, and also at 70 or so if i hit an incline.
Around the same time, I noticed that acceleration seemed sluggish when getting on the interstate. Gas mileage dropped from 16-17 mpg combined to 12-13 mpg combined.
Historically, since I bought the truck 3 years ago, if I go WOT to get up to highway speed (Not my normal mode of driving, more of a test) I would get a misfire on cylinder 8.
About 2 weeks ago, driving around town, I got a check engine light. The code said it was rich on bank 2. Cleared the code, it has not come back.
Here is what I have done:
Flushed the tranny (Vehicle history shows this has been done consistently since original purchase)
Changed all 8 plugs (none broke!) and all 8 COPs. - Fixed the misfire on cylinder 8.
Still sluggish and still have the stutter at 45 and 70 on an incline. I know it's not a racecar, but 0-60 in 19.6 seconds seems quite unreasonable.
New Fuel Filter
New Air filter
Cleaned MAF sensor
Had the back pressure on exhaust checked. No blockage there.
My torque app tells me the TPS is functioning normally.
No codes are being thrown, no CEL at this time.
What am I missing? I have a reader that will chart up to 8 sensors as I drive.
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Triton 4.6, new air filter, throttle body cleaned, new fuel filter. Seems sluggish off idle, and when I let off accelerator, rpm's take a few seconds to come down. If the truck is setting still, a quick hit on the throttle takes a second for the engine to build rpm's.
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Well, I just went to grab some lunch and on the way home I got on it a bit. I was met with sluggish acceleration and a flashing CEL. Before I could even turn the car off, the CEL went away. I was about 200 yards from my house so I coasted home. What could the issue be?
2008 Passat 2.0T Tippy with APR stage 2.
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Today I was driving on the interstate at about 70 mph and my truck seemed like it popped out of gear...no loud noise or anything. I was able to coast off the off ramp and my truck was still running but sounded a little odd when I revved it. No gears work and when i revved it in gear it sounded like something loose in the bell housing area maybe. After I turned it off I was not able to restart it, sounded like the starter was just free spinning. Flywheel maybe?
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I have a 2004 XLT supercrew 4x4 with about 150,000 miles with the 5.4 motor. I noticed that when entering an interstate at around 50-55 mph it feels like the tranny slips. There is a jerk, jerk, jerk than it stops, it doesn't do it at any other speeds and only getting on interstates. Runs fine in town. No lights on the dash or codes, fluid level is normal and clean. I did have a caliper sticking but it was replaced and it's still doing the jerk, jerk, jerk. Could it be U joints?
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I noticed a slightly rough ride around 70-80 mph sometimes on interstate a month back but thought it was my scalloped tires that need replacing and ignored it. Last weekend i had to go to MI from GA pulling a small enclosed tandem axle trailer (6x12). I started after work and made it to VA before stopping for the night with no problems not even at 70-80. Fueled up first thing in the morning (BP Fuel) and headed farther into the mountains when the truck started shaking when it should be downshifting (into overdrive I am guessing?)
No check engine light come on so i pulled off the road checked rear end and motor oil everything was fine, topped off tranny which was slightly low but was on dipstick .I let the truck cool for 20 min then got back going again. I continued driving with overdrive off, and not on the truck. Every time it had to downshift under hill climb it would start shaking but i would let out of the gas and it would stop. Once i got out of the mountains it was fine and couldnt tell it was running bad at low rpms, and also drove fine when i got off the interstate for fuel driving in towns.
I drove that whole day through ohio mich and back trough ohio when entering kentucky. It started to downshift and run at high rpms with no problem, and started acting up when i got back into the mountains.When the truck would go to downshift it started to shake uncontrollably again. then is when the check engine light come on and flashed. I babied in until tenn when i stopped at oriellys to hook up to scanner. scanner read misfire on 5 and ignition coil d primary secondary circuit malfunction. I checked the #5 plug (fine) and replaced the #4 coil, and didn't check the #4 plug.
t kept going and it never fixed the problem. stopped and jumped my coils around and check a few more plugs which all were fine but never that #4 (why idk), after being fed up, sat night, no mechanics around and wanting to get home i drove it the rest of the way. it never idled rough until i got almost home in Ga. When i got home the next day i pulled all plugs and all looked brand new still except the #4 which had the whole prong and tip completely burnt off. I replaced it and nothing changed, but my exhaust sounded restricted. Brought to a shop and it is now reading a misfire on 4 (with brand new plug) 5 7 and 8 and also saying it is running lean. They changed fuel filter and plugs but nothing still.
2004, f150, 4.6, 4x4, stx, short wheel base, 3:55
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I have a 2004 Prius, ~150k miles. At about 80k I replaced the inverter coolant pump as a preventative measure.
Recently, the car has shown an intermittent lack of power, and abnormally sluggish acceleration, which seems similar to what I've heard about the failsafe mode of an overheating inverter, except no warning lights appear. We have had some hot days this summer in SLC, Utah (100+ deg). It's a sporatic issue that seems much worse on hot days. The weather has been hot, but we've had hot days in past years and not had this problem.
Yesterday, the car showed the worst ever such behavior and was nearly crippled for my wife (why do these things always happen when the wife is driving alone?). She was returning home from a ~ 1hr appointment, where the car was parked in the sun, ambient air temp was ~103 deg. The car was very sluggish and ICE was revving much higher than normal. The battery fan that vents next to the rear passenger-side door was running at the higher speed than she's ever heard it before. I asked her at the time about the battery level, and the display showed two bars, even though she was going mostly downhill. A/C seemed to be working, but she turned it off. She was able to limp home. It did seem that when the battery charged a bit, performance improved somewhat.
After I got home a few hours later that evening, (temp ~90-95 deg), I took it for a spin and it seemed fine. I'm pretty sure I detected a slight hiccup in power one of the times I punched it, but nothing drastic. She drove it this morning (84 deg ambient, ~75 deg overnight low) and it seemed normal, except that she could hear the battery fan (we almost never hear it running), but it was much slower than yesterday.
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2004 Santa Fe 2.7L V6 2WD ... Car was running fine, filled it with gas, and upon starting, heard a backfire into the intake manifold. It coded for a Cylinder 3 misfire so I had plugs and wires changed.
Now...The car starts, idles rough, accelerates sluggishly, and running rough any time it was around 2000 RPM. After I changed the plugs, it started bucking a little and stalls when I take off in the morning.
Coded and it's reading 7 codes, but some are duplicates:
-P0274 Cylinder 5 Injector Control High
-P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire
-P0102 MAF or VAF A Circuit Low Input
-P0050 H02S Bank 2 Sen 1 Heater Circuit
-P0030 HO2S Bank 1 Sen 1 Heater Circuit
-P0274 Cylinder 5 Injector Control High (Shows Twice)
-P0102 MAF or VAF A Circuit Low Input (Shows Twice)
After having a backfire and then cylinder misfire...replacing the plugs and wires.
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Car Details : 2004 Mazda 6 V6 3.0 L engine automatic transmission with 88,000 miles
Car Problem Vignette : After driving for a bit, say 20-30 mins (after my engine gets hot), I start to smell a burning oil smell. I’ve looked under the hood at my engine and do notice some oil leaking from the engine. This is not just some simple oil leaking after an oil change. The oil appears to be coming out of the engine "seams" itself. This has persisted for some time now. This problem started at least a year and a half ago now (12/05/12). I’ve had a mechanic take a look at the oil leak and supposedly he fixed the head gasket or valve cover gasket (I’m not sure which one), but the problem never fully resolved.
In a related or unrelated situation (I’m not sure yet if it is related) during this time my car started to jerk and sputter when I drove, so much so that I wasn’t sure it was going to make it to work one morning. The check engine light came on and I eventually made it to work and back home that day. It gave me a code that said one of my cylinders was misfiring. I proceeded to change all of my spark plugs to no avail. I then changed out one of my ignition coils to the bad cylinder misfire. It fixed my problems with the stuttering and I could drive my car again without fear of stalling. However, I still smelled burning oil. Over time I eventually started to feel my car struggle to take off during acceleration which felt different from when my car seemed like it was going to jerk and sputter to a stall. During this time frame one day I was at a stop light and when I went to take off, a huge plume of bluish / white smoke came out the exhaust and I smoke-screened the people behind me. After that incident, I ended up changing my positive crankcase valve (PCV). After changing my PCV my car felt like brand-new again! I could not believe it! My car started accelerating smoothly and driving so much better. I felt like I had gotten the “Zoom Zoom” back for my Mazda.
Sadly this didn’t last long, maybe a month at the most. My car started struggling during acceleration again and I started smelling burning oil again. I have dealt with this for over a year now. My car still runs and gets me around, but I can’t remember the last time that my car ran smoothly or didn’t smell like burning oil except for that time I changed the PCV. I have never seen any kind of smoke coming out of my exhaust again like that one experience.
Problems:
•Burning oil smell coming from my engine due to leaking oil coming out the "seams" of the engine
•Car is struggling when accelerating especially at lower gears
•I feel it every so often when I accelerate somewhere between 2nd and 3rd gear that the car jerks and makes this “chunk” type sound and feeling when it shifts gears.
Questions:What is wrong with my car? Are all these situations related? And what do I need to do to stop the oil leak and acceleration problem?
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,I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra (stick shift) with about 104k on it. Was running absolutely great till about a month ago when I noticed that it was beginning to accelerate quite slowly. If I pushed it and got the RPMs up really high it would still pick up, but still not great performance. Also after pushing it a little hard there was a faint burning or smoke smell. Note, once it is up to speed say 60 or 70 it has no trouble maintaining such speeds. It just takes a while getting up to them. And if I really need to step on it the RPMs sky rocket with no real immediate increase in speed.
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I've got an 04' F150 and the ONLY problem I have with it is a ridiculously sluggish throttle. I bought the Superchips Tuner in hopes of eliminating this, but the delay in the throttle is still there (power is much better however). When I talk delay, I am talking hitting the gas and probably a realistic .5-1 sec delay. It is quite annoying to say the least.
My question...is there something that I can do myself to improve the throttle response? I drove an older 150..probably an 02 or 03 and it felt sooooo much more powerful just do to the throttle. I am even willing to ditch the Superchips if the Ford re-tune would do a better job.
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My truck decided to have some issues last weekend coming home from a friends house. After being on the road for about an hour the truck shuddered, lost speed and was incredibly sluggish trying to get up the hill. It flashed the CEL and then went out. I was doing about 75 with the cruise on.
After slowing down to about 60 it stopped the shuddering and resumed operations as normal. Until about 20 minutes later when it repeated the above.
The next day I grabbed my reader and found the P0302 and P0306 codes. I cleared the codes and took it for a "test" drive up and down the mountain to see if it would trip the codes again. It didn't flip the codes. I thought I might have been dealing with a "one off" issue and left it alone for a few days.
Two days ago the CEL light came on and stayed on this time. Sure enough P0306. Cylinder 2 did not throw a code this time. After doing some research on here I ordered two new COPs and bought a mechanics stethoscope and some new spark plugs just in case.
The stethoscope confirms that cylinder 6 is having some issues. The COPs came in today so I'll take it apart tomorrow and see what I see. I'll be looking at both the COPs and the plugs to see what may be causing the problem. The "nice" thing about this is that at least it's one of the easier COPs to get to.
Should be a nice day for working on the truck.
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What is a "normal" number people see on their load factor? Mine was around 25-30 a few weeks ago but I noticed it is increasing to around 30-40 once I'm in gear, in park it's fine. My acceleration is also getting a bit sluggish too especially going up hills and my throttle isn't responding all the way, my turbo boost is normal though and I don't think there is any VGT stiction. I'm thinking either a fuel filter or a MAF sensor to start with. Fuel filters have been in exactly 10 months. Can a dirty fuel filter, air filter, or MAF sensor affect engine load at idle and how fast it accelerates? I feel like I'm pulling a trailer and with it being more sluggish, my transmission is shifting harder as well.
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I noticed tonight my 4.6 V-8 Aviator is acting a bit sluggish, not bad, but still noticeable. I'm pretty sure I heard a hissing noise, almost like a vacuum leak. Would that vacuum leak caused by the pcv valve cause sub-par acceleration? I'm going to check the pcv valve in the morning. is there more than one pcv valve.hose on these 4.6 V-8's? I'm asking because I was reading about the pcv hose/valve in these 4.6 V-8's, some people on this forum had vacuum leaks caused by the pcv valve failing, being that it connects to the intake manifold.
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My '05 5.4 SD CCLB is running badly. 95k mikes. Plugs done 6 months ago. Acceleration is very sluggish. Sometimes uphill from a stop is almost impossible.
No CEL codes other than an intermittent coolant temp gauge that spikes but resets as soon as I shut down and restart.
When it is bogging the exhaust note changes - almost like there is a blockage. It is almost a booming sound. I would like to test to see if the cat is clogged. I have a vacuum gauge but need to find a vacuum source after the throttle body to do so. If I pull out the O2 sensors ( to allow the exhaust pressure to exit ) would the truck run badly because the O2 sensors were not functioning?
If it turns out that the converter is bad. Can I just eliminate the cats? I do not need emissions testing here in PA because the truck is so heavy. But I don't know if eliminating the cats will cause other problems.
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2016 F250SD XLT CC 4X4...13K miles... Now with it being blazing hot in Florida I have been running windows up and a/c on. Beginning to notice the truck is not accelerating the same with the a/c on as it does with the a/c off. It seems like it sluggish till it gets to a certain RPMs then you feel it kick in and somewhat take off. Is this normal?
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I have a 2008 6.4 f-250. It has 139,00 Miles and I have a problem with the truck losing coolant and overheating on the interstate. When cruising 75-80 my truck will sometimes begin to puke coolant from the degas bottle and my cooling fan will begin to run. Engine coolant temp once spiked to 240 degrees before I could get off onto the shoulder. Around town the truck does fine although I do notice a loss of coolant but no overheating issues what so ever. I have the Dpf Deleted and Egr coolers are off. I run an H+S on a mild tune. Is there any other thing that could be wrong with this truck besides head gaskets? I am not looking forward flipping that bill. Trying the exhaust all other possibilities first.
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I have a shudder that happens when turning right at a grade of about 10% while accelerating, and only on that condition. While making a routine drive somewhere, there's a turn with that one condition. Every time it shudders. It doesn't bother me because it happens so rarely...
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I noticed the problem today when I was driving to the store. I was going around 60 and went to pass a car. As soon as I hit the gas there is a popping noise coming from the engine compartment and it had no power. It only does it between 50-65 mph.
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04 F150 4.6 ltr Has a tinny rattle during acceleration . Sounds like 2 hammerheads in a washing machine....
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So, my 2004 with its constant tick is now "Missing", but only under moderate acceleration, between 1k and 2k rpms. i.e., : When in OD and wanting to gain a few MPH, but not drop down a gear. I have noticed it in OD and in 3rd. Feels like the engine stops for a split second, several times.
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