Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Exhaust Manifold Leak On Passenger Side
Jun 24, 2013
2004 SCrew, FX4, 5.4 ... I had the dreaded exhaust manifold leak on the passenger side. After reading the horror stories of this repair and living in the rust belt I decided against fixing it myself. I took it to a local repair shop to have done. Initially the mechanic could see that the front 2 studs were snapped off (before even trying to remove them).
After a full day of fighting the studs (engine loose & lifted up) everything is out but the front 2 studs. the top one has about 1/2" exposed, but it is frozen in place (penetrate on it overnight). The biggest problem is the bottom stud. it is broken off about 1/8" below the surface of the head. The guy doesnt have a small enough right angle drill to get between the frame & head to attempt to drill it out. I will gladly go buy a drill for him to do this, as it will likely save me money if it will work to drill out the stud.
Need to get the 2 studs out, particularly the bottom one, or what right angle drill may fit in there?
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2005 Supercrew and my passenger side exhaust manifold was leaking. Son of a mother duck that was a joke to get removed. Front two studs broke off about 1/4" below the surface. Manifold is not cracked but putting a straight edge across it's out of plane at least a quarter inch.
Had planned on the dorman manifold but read some poor reviews about it cracking in less than a year and being warped out of the box. There is an ATP manifold with very few reviews but all good. Or just bite the bullet and do shorty headers? The driver's side looks a lot easier to access.
These trucks really weren't designed to be worked on after assembly were they? I had to invent new cuss words. Looks like Ford manifold is disco'd...
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I have an 06 with a 5.4 with 70k on it and I have already had to do the exhaust manifolds twice, once covered by warrantee at 19k, then again around 40k and now at 74k I have a major leak from the left side manifold again
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My wife's 97 f150 4x4 had an exhaust leak on the passenger side. 7 out of the 8 bolts holding the manifold on are snapped off. 4 of them are snapped off 1/8" below the top of the hole on the cylinder head . I am I unable to get a drill in to drill these out. The other 3 I've tried welding a nut on these but they won't budge and I wring the nuts off. If I have to pull the head(something I don't want to do)can I just pull that 1 head or do I have to tear the intake and everything off?
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I have an exhaust leak on the passengers side of my 2006 F-150 5.4 triton. If I do the repair which is the correct way to do it? Do I replace just the blown out gasket?
Do I need to buy a new exhaust manifold and gasket kit, with exactly what parts should I buy in the kit? Or do i need to replace both sides?
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Should I attempt to replace the passenger side manifold with what I can get from Napa. I would rather pay 100 bucks for everything and do it myself. But, Im concerned about replacing the studs. From what I have read the studs seam to be the problems for most leaks on these vehicles. I have torque equip. and other tools to do the job. Just want others opinions about this project. How hard really is it? 1999 5.4L F250 SDuty....
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I just finished installing a new turbo (shaft play and lots of oil in the compressor side), RR up-pipes, and T500 (250k and once had a very long crank to get the ICP up to start).
Anyway, except for another exhaust leak at the pass side up-pipe to manifold, it seemed to run okay but with lots of white smoke. I only have about 50 miles after the install, when it suddenly starting surging and made a lot of loud knocking noises. This then went away and came back again rather quickly. I was close to home, so I made back under power. I also received the two codes listed. My IPR is original, but two summers ago I installed the IPR re-seal kit. Everything on the IPR looked good when it came off for the T500.
After reading around, I saw that low fuel pressure / air in fuel can cause problems. I connected a pressure gauge to the pre-filter port on the filter housing, and got 40psi at idle. I then took a diesel shower and blew out the fuel line into the tank. After re-connecting it, the fuel pressure stayed the same but the engines idles much better, but still has blue smoke. It's the original fuel pump (to me anyway) and original fuel line connections.
I have about 3/4 tank, and no place to put it, so I'd need to run it out for the Hutch mod, or least to get in there and inspect. Would eliminating the Ford connections at the pump be worthwhile for now, and is 40psi at idle adequate? Wondering if it's time for a fuel pump?
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Truck has 107 thousand miles; had to take it in for an manifold exhaust leak. Mechanic said bolts are so rusted they break.
1) was there ever a ALERT from ford about these bolt's?
2) Thought i read ford had stainless bolts for this problem...
I've had F150's only since the mid 70's and this 04 has cost me more in repairs than ANY previous F150..
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My 05 Gx has the infamous manifold exhaust leak on the driver side. I'm planing to change it myself I don't think it should be that tough.
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1990 Bronco II, 2.9l, auto, 4x4. Was running just fine. Sitting in Park just idling away. All of a sudden, just starts running real rough, ticking, etc.
Towed it home. This morning, started up OK but still running really rough.
While running, pulled spark plug wires one at a time from the drivers side. Had no effect but could tell the wires were sparking as I held them up to metal.
Turned truck off. Drivers side exhaust manifold COLD, passenger side HOT.
This sounds real bad to me. Am I missing something simple that could cause the drivers side of the engine to not work?
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2003 F150 5.4 4x4 supercrew ,76k miles
Recently the passenger side exhaust manifold cracked on my truck. I bought this truck about two years ago with 58k on it and currently have 76k miles. I remember getting the carfax report and being relieved to see that it had exhaust manifold replaced in July of 2014 at 49K miles along with a new EGR tube. I called the shop that worked on the truck to see if he could confirm that both manifolds were replaced since carfax only said manifold & egr tube. The shop manager confirmed that both manifolds were replaced and he told me that they were most likely manifolds from napa according to the part number.
Now, my question is, what's the best brand to replace the manifolds with? Should I just go with OEM and spend the extra $130 per side? I know the manifolds are a common problem with these trucks but only lasting three years and 27K miles just seems ridiculous to me.
I'm hoping that when I get around to actually doing this that they wont be to bad because of how recently they were replaced. For now I just cleaned the area with a wire wheel and used the inferno metal repair. Seems to have done the job but I don't expect it to last long, just another month or two until I move to a place where I can actually work on my vehicles.
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I purchased my 2008 Explorer Ltd about 4 months ago with a 4.6L and 63k miles. I use it for towing a small travel trailer, so I don't put many miles on it. It's got about 66k on it now. According to OASIS, it has had all MFR maintenance performed up to the 60k mark.
In the past two months, it has developed a "sound" on startup. it goes away after about 75 seconds. To me it sounds like a typical exh manifold leak. That "3 cylinder, putt putt putt tractor" sound. There is no apparent affect on performance. It is definitely coming from the area of cyl #1. I have a recording here.
[URL]....
It is the "higher" of the sounds. The lower pulsing/whooshing is just regular engine noise. You can hear the regular engine noise as the camera pans to the back of the car.
What puzzles me is that the exh manifold sound goes away after 75 seconds or so. Holding the tailpipe shut for a bit builds up lots of pressure quickly. Do you think it IS, in fact, an exh manifold leak, and it seals up with thermal expansion as the engine worms up (75 seconds)? Is this a typical issue with the 4.6L
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I have V6 Tdi -08 and my car has developed a tiny leak on the right hand side exhaust manifold. The purchase price for a new manifold is not to expensive but I now wonder difficult it is to replace considering how tight it is in the engine bay. If the engine has to come out in order to have it replaced or repaired.
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I have an 01 Ford ranger with a 3.0 six cylinder. The passenger side exhaust manifold got so hot it melted the housing around the a/c evaporator. The local dealer said both converters need changing for a mere $2400. Took it to a local muffler shop where did a test and said they were ok. But it still doesn't want to run and the muffler guy unhooked the exhaust from the manifold and it still wouldn't run so he said. And to me out looks like 5 converters not just two.
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is there a set of headers for my 2008 f250 5.4 rwd that will install somewhat easily without me throwing tools across the garage? I see a lot more options for the older trucks. I have a pretty annoying exhaust manifold leak and I figure I might as well throw some headers on if im gonna be in there. I really want to go for sound rather than power. I think I saw a set by flowmaster that looked decent.
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I have a leak at the driver side exhaust manifold. Its a little tough getting at it to tell if its a lose bolt, crack or bad gasket. What would be the best way to get at this area? Should i remove the tire and wheel well or is their a better way. If i can get at it i may replace the manifold all together.
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So I started my truck this morning and it sounds like air rushing out from the driver side of the engine. I currently have my ICP unplugged due to a bad sensor, will be replacing it on Sat. Also I have been having an issue with my turbo but I don't think that it's related as I here the air rushing sound when at idle as well at when driving. It seems to be a bit louder when the engine is cold but I could also be crazy about that.
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I have a 2005 f250 5.4 no mods. its got 120k and needs a wake up. the passengers side exhaust manifold is leaking to the point of fixing and would like to get some input before the big purchase. my question is, headers or new manifold, and what brands is preferred for both I really don't prefer one or the other i just want the best fix really. Changing coil pack and getting more performance out of them and if so what brand. I would like a boost in lower end acceleration and throttle response, like a programmer or such. and if so what brand once again.
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I have a 97 Expedition with the 5.4 engine and 160k miles. Recently while having other work done I was told that I had an exhaust manifold leak due to broken rusted bolts.
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My 2006 F150 Lariat screw has a passengers side water leak that runs down under the passengers side dashboard on to the fuse box , electrical connections , etc... My rug is soaked ....
I thought it was the ac / defroster condensation drain issue covered in the TSB and did that fix ( not an easy job ! ), but that's not it. I sprayed water on the passengers side windshield and watched it leak on the inside. I broke down and took it to the dealership and they can't find the leak . They still have my truck ! They don't think it's a windshield leak and I don't either .
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My truck just started running really loud when it's cold and the leak goes away when it warms up to operating temperature.I did a little bit of investigating and I have found where the leak is coming from at the end of the exhaust manifold where the donut gasket meets the catalytic converters. It appears that the bolts rotted that hold the system together at the gasket. What should I do to repair this? I don't really want to replace the whole manifold because I know I'll break a stud off in the engine because everything is pretty rusty down there. I even took some pictures of the problem....
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