Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: F250 VVT Making Noise When Warm - Both Cam Position Sensor Codes
Mar 21, 2013
2008 Ford F-250 5.4L VVT. Setting both cam position sensor codes and both VVT PO12 and PO22 Codes. Runs good for a few minutes cold then goes to making noise and retards timing when warms up . Replaced both cam phasers and 1 vct solenoid and camshaft position sensors, changed oil and filter with motorcraft.. Tried unplugging VCT solenoids but still runs bad when warms up. Ran bad when engine was cold or hot before replaced phasers now only when warms up. Is it a oil pressure problem pressure shows good on dash gauge.
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I have just purchased an 06 long bed f-150 with high mileage on it. I am going thru it slowly as time permits. I had found the passenger door stop, not the hinges, to be making a "quite" squeaking noise as it is started toward a closed position. A simple drop or two of oil I am thinking, but it then really increases in sound. I then clean it off and apply a synthetic grease, still loud, maybe louder. I finally got it back to a "quite" squeak again by cleaning it. Use lubricant, or should I just leave it cleaned as it is now?
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So my car has had the two cam position sensor codes for awhile..and it had a cheddar/chain noise when you first start it up and at 1000-1500 rpms anything past that it would go away. also car has been very very sluggish. and horrible on gas. so im guessing it may have skipped time or the chains were really stretched but something just was not right..
So I bought everything to do the timing chains and tore it done yesterday and this is what i found.
intermediate shaft gear is done....both cams off just a little ...no interference ...
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I recently picked up a 2000 jetta vr6 for a very good price its a glx I have owned a vr6 before and done timing chains myself on it this one is a glx , I am having 5 fault engine codes on my vagcom they are cam position sensor , knock sensor, secondary injection pump, and mass air flow it ran fine 100 miles yesterday this morning the epc came on then went off and ran bad can these codes all be related or do I have to replace each sensor individually..
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It's an 04 F250 with the 6.0, and has been there about five months now. The backstory I have been given is that it drove in running rough, gave crank position sensor codes, and the CPS was replaced. That was the last time it ran. Since then, it has had the CPS replaced five times, the FICM rebuilt then replaced three times, the engine harness replaced, and spent some time at Ford. It would only show about 30rpm while cranking. The engineer came and looked at it, said it must be the tone ring on the crank and that's it.
Here's where it's at for me: Cranking RPM peaked out at 57, but the fan rpm was about 180 while cranking and it sounded like it was cranking pretty quick. I disconnected the glow plug module, had another guy crank it while I gave it a quick shot of starting fluid, which it caught and started to run on. It sounded like it was running on fuel for a second, then shut back off and now cranks unevenly.
According to the owner this thing has seen lots of starting fluid in the course of diagnosing it, and there were no odd noises before it shut down so I suspect stuck valves from sitting so long. It did give me a whole bunch of codes which I will post tomorrow, including injector #4 high. I tried to do a buzz test but just got a message saying "unknown code, please wait" and then nothing.
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I have an 05 f350 6.0 that I recently bought. It was fine until a few weeks ago when it died while I was driving down the road. I pulled to the side and it started right back up like nothing happened and kept driving like normal. Skip to last weekend it did it to me twice but the second time it would not start so I plugged my programmer in and it showed p0336 crank position sensor and cam portion sensor codes (I can't remember the number of the second code) I have read a few posts that said maybe it's the icp sensor so I went ahead and replaced that with no luck. The batteries went dead from excessive cranking which I know isn't very good for my starter but I was getting a little upset.
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I have a 2004 f250 superduty with 2 codes p1714 and p1715 what are they ?
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99 2.0 jetta. Getting oil on crank position sensor making it miss. Is it the rear main seal? Only reason I can think to have oil around the flywheel... How hard is a rear main seal to change out....
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For 2009 and 2010 f150's with the 5.4L engine, this may apply to you.
About a month back I got some odd vibrations at start-up and while driving and the following codes:
P0345 - Camshaft Position Sensor, Bank 2 (drivers side), circulation error
P0349 - Camshaft position Sensor, Bank 2 (drivers side), circulation Interim.
These codes are common in the previous generation truck for various reasons. In my case, I started trying to troubleshoot with the easiest solutions first.
Checked the battery - fully charged.
Checked/played with the alternator connection and related wiring - looked good.
Checked the oil - it was down at the half mark on the dipstick, so toped it off with synthetic oil.
Cleared the codes, and now have been driving for a month, no issues, no codes!
If these codes come up for other folks, try the easiest on the list first, before bringing to the dealer... these codes can be really hard to solve, but sometimes we can get lucky.
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I am having a problem with my 2003 Santa Fe I have taken it to have the check engine light codes read and I have a code for the crankshaft position sensor, random misfires, something with gear 2 and 3 (not sure what it was exactly) it makes a loud noise when in 1st and 2nd gear when I shift out of 2nd the noise gets less and less until its gone and then does not come back until the car sits for a little while and cools down. Its running rough and does not have any power when accelerating. I had the timing belt changed a few weeks ago and it started running funny shortly after. I don't think the guy that did the timing belt knew what he was doing because I had to have someone go behind him and tighten the pulley.
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I've got a 2003 Jetta Wolfsberg that is acting up, I'll do my best to describe and outline the steps I've taken with the mechanic to fix the problem,
Occasionally, when starting the car one of two things happens, (1) engine turns over, fires, and then dies. Removing the key, letting the car sit for 30 seconds and trying again usually gets the car started. (2) The car will start but will run VERY roughly (misfiring, sounding like the engine is choking out). Very much like this (only sometimes much worse, usually ending in a stall): [URL] ....
Turning the car off, removing the key, letting it sit, and then trying it again will eventually work, even though it might take a few cycles. Once the car gets running it almost always runs fine from thereon. (There have been a couple occasions where the car has gone into limp mode, even on the freeway. Pulling over, letting it sit, and starting it again almost always fixes the problem. I've not yet been stranded.)
Diagnosis & Steps taken:
I get regular codes for the camshaft position sensor and also for the MAP (Barometric pressure) sensor. Both have been replaced.The MAP sensor and the atmospheric pressure readings are off by about 30 (something like 960 and 990). My mechanic thought that maybe it was an electrical problem, he noted that the two sensors mentioned above share a common ground. He replaced the ground because it looked corroded. This brought the pressure numbers both to 990 and the car ran perfectly for a few weeks.One thought was to splice in a new wire to the MAP sensor, to see whether it was a signal problem, this hasn't been done yet. Another possibility was that there is a problem with the ECM.
I THINK, that the problems began just after having the computer flashed at the dealership two years ago. I'd got a code about an update and so the dealership did this. I don't know whether this could have had any effect on these problems, but the times lined up too well to not mention it.
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My Bank 2 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor is faulty and I need to replace it. The guys at the parts store were pretty certain it is downstream driver's side, but I just want to make sure before I PB Blasted and removed it. 2008 F250 SD v10 ....
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2004 F150 Super Crew Lariet 4x4 with limited slip. Center console with electonic switch 2wd/4hi/4lo on dash right of steering wheel. My 4 wheel drive does not work.
When the truck is in 2wd I have no issues, no sounds(I've heard anyway) or anything. The only questionable is when turning with wheel at full lock in either direction at low speed, my front wheels grab/lunge. Not sure if that is normal or not on these trucks.
When I put it in 4wd in the snow, it acts as though it wants to engage, but the second any power is applied to the wheels, the back wheels just spin and it makes a higher pitched grinding/chattering noise up front. It will also lightly clunk into 4wd with little power applied to the wheels, but once it has accelerating power applied the front diff "pops" and is clearly no longer engaged.
When in reverse in 4wd, it makes no noise, but still doesn't work.
Yesterday I had it in the shop for an oil change and to rotate my tires. While it was all off the ground I turned the ignition on and put it in 4wd. Both back wheels turned it the same direction(limited slip) as they should, and the front left wheel turned fully engaged with them. The front right wheel did nothing and turned freely on its own(assuming because front it open diff?). One oddity noted, when the back wheel were rotated one full revolution, the front rotated 2 full revolutions(also assuming this is because of the front diff being open and rear being locked?).
When I spun both front wheels by hand regardless of 4wd turned on or not, IIRC, they both made a clicking/ratcheting sound as the spun.
I left it in 4wd when I brought it back down on it's wheels and backed it out of the shop into the unplowed area of snow, I lunged the throttle a touch and the front end dropped as the front wheels gripped and slightly broke loose in the sticky snow. It was fully engaged and working properly for a second. I then put it in drive and tried to move forward, soon as any power was applied it "popped" out of engagement in the from diff and was back to 2wd and light grinding noise.
Another note, our first big snow fall a few days back is when I first had a real issue with the 4wd not working at all. It had snowed pretty well and I didn't feel like shoveling the driveway because I was running short on time to make it to work and my wife had the day off work and didn't need to go anywhere. I started it, put it in 4wd, let it warm up a bit, proceeded with trying to leave. This is when it all began with the 4wd not working at all and grinding. As it made that noise, it sounded pretty light to me in the cab even with the window down. But, as my wife noticed me stuck in the driveway she stood in the front door watching with the glass storm door still closed. She said she thought that "light" grinding noise I heard, was actually quite loud from where she was standing, 60+ ft away.
Previous issues I've noticed with my 4wd that may diagnose my exact issue, it has had a frequent issue the past year or so with, when engaaged, if I applied too much acceleration, from a stop or not, it would suddenly "pop" out of engagement as I've previously noted on, but I would immediately let off the throttle and it would reengage right away.
On two other occasions, it has refused to engage into 4wd no matter what. I simply contributed it to the extremely cold weather during the occurrence, as it worked just fine the next day and/or the next time I placed it in 4wd.
4hi/4lo light always lights up in the gauges as they should and as if everything is working normal.
So, IWE's? Actuators? Vacuum?
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I have a 08 f-150 super crew 4x4 and driving down highway or just on main roads,when ever my truck down shifts it make a quik vibration noise, kinda like driving on a washboard road.
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The front of my truck is making a roaring noise after playing in the mud while your going down the road is the only time I hear it. It sounds as if I have really aggressive tires on it. I did do my best to clean out from under it... It doesn't seem to feel like its dragging. 4x4 engages fine? I mean it started only after a few days of playing in it, I didn't wash the mud off right away. Should I be concerned? I mean if its just some dirt up against something, then that is no big deal, but my ranger whined when it was low on differential fluid. However its not whining, just roaring.... Should I be concerned? Truck drives fine... no issues there.
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My 2004 f250 5.4 Triton has been making a sort of ticking noise, it almost sounds like my lifters have a little play in them but it also sounds like an exhaust manifold leak. They both would sound about the same and it seems to be getting a little worse of gas mileage than before. Also, the check engine light was on from Saturday into Sunday night then it shut off Sunday night and hasn't been back.
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Ok, just asking a question for a buddy. He has 78k on the truck and the shocks make a strange noise. When one of us bounces the truck up and down on the bumper (simulating a load) the shocks "click". Now I looked and it looks like the bushing may be wore out, and the actual bolt that goes through the upper shock mount is touching the top and then the bottom, emitting the "clicking" noise. Is this just a normal wore out shock, or perhaps a defect? Just asking because I am not as familiar with suspension systems.
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Ok I have a 2004 F150 Fx4 ext. cab. I had the truck for sale and due to something coming up I was unable to sell it. Kinda wish I did now. But anyways the truck was running great up until last week. I was drove it to work which I normally dont do. On my way home the rear end was making a weird noise. Kinda like a brake sticking. I tapped the brakes a few times and it seemed to work. Then a mile down the road it was doing it again without me trying to come to a stop and the back end was shaking. I pulled over and crawled under the truck to see if a u-joint was going bad. Everything seemed good. It never happened again until today.
This morning I hoped in the truck and went to my parents house. Its about a 5 mile drive and truck was acting fine. Came home and it was still fine. A few hours later I figured I would go up to the fire department I am on and find something to do up there. I got in the truck and didnt make it 5 feet from where I was parked and there was this bad noise followed by my whole truck shaking. It felt like the truck was going to fall in pieces in my driveway. I stopped looked around and didn't notice anything wrong. I figured I would just try to drive a little bit further and it was even worse. So I put it in reverse and it was normal. I put it in Drive again and thought my teeth were about to fall out of my mouth.
What could cause this? I know my transmission was leaking some oil from where the gear shifter comes out. I would check the trans fluid and add some if needed. I drove it up to the fire hall Monday night and did notice a slight burning smell but that was the only time I smelled it. Could it be the transmission?
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I bought a 2005 F150 supercrew w/ 5.4 Triton engine brand new. It now has 16000 miles on it and all was well until...
I was driving to work 2 days ago and all of a sudden my truck started acting all weird. I couldn't accelerate and it seemed as though I was driving over rumble strips. I went directly to the garage and they told me that 2 fuel injectors mal-functioned and that flooded everything with gas. I needed 2 injectors and 8 spark plugs. The next day the garage called and said that they replaced the parts but now there is a terrible knocking noise and that I needed a new engine.
I am not a car wiz so what other things should I be aware of? What other questions should I be asking?
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My 2006 f150 was making a noise that's coming from the engine. It sound like rocks in the engine. When I'm going 50-60 MPH the engine starts to make a sounds like rocks in the engine. What's happening. When I go about 40 it stops.
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I recently purchased as used 2006 F-150 Lariat 4x4 with 77K miles. I am having an issue with the shift on the fly, I had a vacuum leak that was causing the auto hubs to make noise on occasion but it has never allowed me to shift from 2wd to 4H while moving. I have replaced the IWE solenoid and repaired the vacuum leak but it still will not engage while moving. The light for 4H comes on but the hubs will not engage. The dealer where I purchased the vehicle is not a ford dealership and whey have been trying to solve the problem but to no avail.
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