I've recently had a small issue with my truck missing under hard load. If you're going around 40 MPH and push it down like merging it will kick back and forth and sputter and then start hitting fine again after a few seconds and move on. Possibly bad sparkplugs and/or wires?
View 3 RepliesStrange condition? If I kick it down hard into passing gear (or downshift hard into any gear for that matter), it pukes and sputters for a few seconds before clearing up and coming to life. No issues with normal driving, or dead stop hard acceleration, just on the downshift.
I’ve got a Magnaflow cat back on there and am wondering if opening up the exhaust and reducing the back pressure is screwing with the ECU a little? Is this just the nature of the stock Ford tune and it wasn’t as pronounced with the stock exhaust as it is now? Trucks an '06 FX4 5.4L and only has 70,000km on it.
Sstripped threads using an impact to remove the plugs?
View 4 RepliesMy '07 had the check engine come in the other day, engine misfire. I took it to the dealer hoping it was a coil, due to the 100,000 mi warranty from Ford I was hoping would be covered. Sadly, and of course, all coils tested fine, turns out 2 plugs were bad. They replaced all 8 plugs, plus a plug boot. Not one plug broke (truck had 80k on it) so no extra cost there. So much more, but peace of mind that all the plugs are new one piece plugs is great. He recommended that they should be replaced every 60k to avoid any issues.
View 7 RepliesI am a newbie here, and also a new owner of a 2006 F150 XLT 4X4 with the 5.4 engine. It has 68K miles on it and looks to have been well cared for. I have a couple questions. First the truck is runnig great, no problems. I have read the threads regarding the spark plug issues and was looking for an opinion about changing them. Should I wait until I have problems, or due to the age of the truck, should I go ahead and attempt it soon? Also, I would like to find a used cap for the bed. I have the 6.5 bed, and wondered what range of years would work with my truck.
View 3 Replies2004 5.4L ... Codes indicate a firing issue on #4 cylinder, figure it's the coil pack. They bought truck used a few years ago and plugs have not been changed since they have owned it. I was going to change plugs while I was under the hood. While checking threads on this engine I picked up on plugs being a major job unless you know the tricks. So what tricks do y'all have up your sleeve to keep from breaking plugs?
View 14 RepliesI changed my spark plugs now I got a miss and rough idle .#2 and 6 seem to be the ones that miss the idle don't change when I unplug the coil , I take coil off and put it next to the motor it sparks ! I put everything 3 plugs and got about 200 miles on them and 3 out of 8 had melt downs and left me on the side of the hwy. I got autolights in it now but it got a miss and rough idle ! Did I not do something right ?
View 7 RepliesI have with my F150 5.4 liter truck. I had the spark plugs replaced about 1 year ago. since then I have had 2 plugs back out and come loose. I would smell a faint gas smell first that would tell me know that it was happening. the first plug was if memory is correct either number 8 0r 7 on bank 2. this time its number 2 on bank 1.
I hope that my mechanic just did not torque the plugs correctly and all I have to do is tighten them. If that's not it. Could the spark plug holes be stripped and have to be re-threaded? And if so how us that done?
I have rough idle problem after changing spark plugs, fuel filter and battery. There was no rough idle problem before this work was done. What could be wrong. Once the speed is above 20 mph it seem to run fine but at stops it vibrates and seem like it may stall!
View 6 RepliesI have a 2007 Prius with ~180000, which runs great. The mechanic shop I used for oil change suggest me to change spark plug because they are dirty. After the change, I found I cannot step on the gas pedal too hard for acceleration. The car will hesitate, choking or die if I try to accelerate too fast. But if I step on the gas pedal gently, and let it reach the desired speed in a slower way, it has no issue. I went back to the shop and they replaced with another set of 4 plugs, and no improvement. I checked air intake tube and it looks no leak, but really old. Other than that, the car runs great.
View 19 RepliesHere's the run down:
-bought 6 months ago for cheap because it wouldn't pass smog test
-changed Purge Control Valve (PCV) and it passed
-filled with gas, heard popping noises like a backfire, and coded it read the same "Bank 1 and Bank 2 running lean, like it did before the PCV and then also "Cylinder 3 Misfire" appeared.
-At this point the car started running rough, at idle, and through acceleration...sputtering uphill, and when climbing through the gears.
-Changed the plugs & wires
-NOW, it's cylinder 5 misfiring, and not nearly as bad. It's idling and running rough, acceleration has somewhat come back, but it's definitely not 100%.
Should I start with the PCV again, since it's not starting after I fill the tank, and climbing gears slow? Is there anything else I should be checking?
I have a 2008 Camry, 2.4L, and used the spark plugs change DIY sticky and it seemed to go painlessly. However, after the new spark plugs, the car seems to idle rough. It has 95k miles, and I did the following in the same tune-up:
1. Changed Oil
2. Replaced Air Filter
3. Changed Spark Plugs
4. Cleaned Battery Terminals
5. Cleaned MAF Sensor
6. Cleaned plugs connecting to ignition coils
I used OEM Toyota plugs, and even called the dealer to see if the gap needed to be set. And they affirmed me that the gap is preset on these plugs.
2004, 4L, sohc - Is there any issues or problems changing spark plugs?
View 4 RepliesI am changing my own spark plugs for the first time. I have a spark plug wrench, dielectric grease, anti-seize compound etc.
I have a Haynes manual for my 2002 Toyota Corolla. The book was written before Irridium plugs were used. Should I tighten the spark plugs to the same torque specifications as regular plugs? The book says 158 inch pounds. How do I know I have tightened them to the right amount?
How do I avoid cross threading the spark plugs? What happens if you cross thread the spark plugs (assuming the car seems to be running fine)? Would I need a new engine or expensive repair when it is time to replace the spark plugs again?
I just changed my spark plugs the other day and since then my engine is hard idling and skips and jumps while I'm driving it. I'm being told I either need to change the spark plug wires or the coil packs. So my question is which do I need to change? And is there anyway to test which one I need to replace?
View 12 RepliesThis past Sunday, I replaced the spark plugs on my 2008 Toyota Camry CE, following one of the sticky DIYs. My car has approximately 107,xxx miles.
Last night on my drive home from work my CEL came on. First time seeing a CEL light since my BMW days, . Luckily, I have a OBDII scanner at home and after running the scanner, it gave me the following trouble codes:
- P0101
- P0172
I went ahead cleaned the air filter (I have an Injen SRI installed).
After doing some research on the interwebs, I have concluded that this code has to do with the MAF. Time permitting, I am going to clean the MAF sensor later tonight. In the meantime I reset the CEL, to see if it will come on again.
My only question, which I am unable to find an answer to, is:
Can there be a possibility that the P0101 and P0172 trouble codes be related to me replacing the spark plugs, or is this just a mere coincidence?
I have an 04 F150 (4.6, auto, 4x4, SCrew) with 300,000 miles. Any success modifying existing 4X4 IWE actuators so they are always locked in?
My last set of actuators didn't last long My vacuum is too low under hard acceleration... Actuators partially engage leading to early failure.
I'd like to take an actuator apart, modify it so it's always locked in. Some loss of mileage? Other ramifications?
I have an 06 F150 2wd with the 5.4. Today on my way home I had to cross traffic while getting on the highway and had to get on it a bit. When I gave it the gas the truck down shifted then just fell on it's face until I let off the gas a little then it sped up like normal. It normally runs great but I don't get on it much. I just don't see why It runs great until I try to get a move on.
View 3 Replies04 intrepid cranks but won't start no spark at the plugs 2.7v6 could it be the pcm...
View 2 RepliesSo in the middle of a road trip 9 days ago my check engine light came on. I was 2 hours into an 8 hour round trip day trip. I was close to a Toyota dealer so I went there for a diagnosis. They said my MAF bank 1 sensor 1 needed replacing but they didn't have the part so couldn't do the fix but I'd be okay to complete my trip. They collected their $100 and sent me on my way with no warning lights on.
30 minutes later the check engine returns and I'm unable to accelerate. I stop the car for a bit and then am able to continue my trip. I have one other incident where when I was traveling at a low speed, I lost all power. I was able to drive home 4 hours with the check engine light on but no further issues with the exception that I got less than 20 miles a gallon for the trip.
Took my car to a local Toyota dealer. They independently diagnosed that the same sensor needed replacing. They also told me that my spark plugs were shot. According to the service rep, they looked like they were from a car with over 100,000 miles.
Is this possible given the description above from the first time my check engine light came on?
My 2004 honda civic hybrid has 8 spark plugs. The ones in the back of the motor look like they get much hotter and both times I have replaced them, all four in the back were really really loose.
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