Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Timing Chain Replacement?
Dec 18, 2015
I have a new style 2004 F150 XLT supercrew with a 4.6. Well, I just hit 300,00 miles earlier this week. The truck has performed pretty much flawlessly over the years (and still does). I've replaced front hubs, IWE's, brakes, fluids, etc, but have NEVER opened up the engine. Is it time to replace the timing chain?
First thought is ,yes, like 50,000 miles ago, but... It has some dents and dings and the rust is getting to it. There is 300,000 on the transmission also... Virtually no residual value- If it strands me on the road, it's time for a new truck.
On the other hand, it only burns a little over a quart at 3000 mile change intervals, the transmission seems strong. I just shampooed the cloth interior and detailed it. The thing looks great from the vantage point of the steering wheel.
No engine issues at all- no rattling, etc.
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So working on a 2005 F150 with a 5.4. Started off as a phaser replacement. Turn out the passenger side timing chain guide was badly damaged. Front timing chain cover came off and replaced the guide and phaser. Got everything back together and it ran rough. Pulled the front timing cover off and the passenger side was off a tooth.
Retimed that passenger side and also replaced the tensioner because the seal on the old tensioner wasn't the best. Now rotating the engine, i noticed the tensioner pushes then retracts. Seems like a vacuum is created pulling the plunger in, but not entirely sure. Only the passenger side does this, not the drivers side.
Worried about putting the front cover and valve covers on, buttoning everything together and having it skip another tooth because of slack in the chain. Any fix for it or reason why it does it?
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Just got 2005 screw fx4. Seemed to run ok 115000 mi.Had exhaust leak,I put on 3" cat back on. Then I noticed tapping at front of the engine.Turns out tim. chain guides are broken. looks like very common prob after reading many forum/threads. Anyway got timing chain kit, phasers, selinoids. Truck runs and sounds great.But so far had truck back 2weeks stalled 2x at idle.What next??
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Can you change the tensioners and guides without removing the chains or getting the cam lock tools ? Doing a in truck repair to fix a squeal sorta noise at start up without the belt on coming from passenger side valve cover that lasts for about 5 sec. oh fyi CRC new freeze off works wonders compared to jb blaster for my tear down so far!
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Changing timing chain tensioner? Mine is making the rattling noise on startup. Tried searching one internet for any DIY's out there. Haven't really found any good ones.
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What to do if your timing chain tensioner fails and wipes out the valvetrain. Go to www.vwusa.com and click the contact us page. Find the link for "online chat" and open a dialog with a vw rep. Have the vin, milage, purchase date info handy and tell them what happend.
Maybe I just got lucky, but I thought my (second owner) 2012 GTI with 46000 mi was toast, the rep (Bill H) told me not to worry and set me up with a case number and the location of a dearship that will confirm the damage and replace my engine.
My experience is in direct opposition of what I have read on forums when people take their GTI's to the dealership first, then after hagling with the stealership managers for weeks on end finally end up emailing vw corporate (which takes weeks to respond) and finally having the issue resolved.
Of couse, this is only if your car has not had the warranty run out. I thought that being the second owner voided the powertrain warranty...again that was false.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Corolla with a leaking timing chain tensioner. I was able to locate a procedure for replacing the tensioner but it didn't say whether the no. 1 cylinder had to be @ TDC or not. What is the proper procedure for this repair?
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2001 Jetta GLX, 12v 2.8 VR6 Automatic, 157k miles.
Relevant Info: P0411 code, unknown if associated with my slightly rough idle and recently reduced mileage (down by 3-4 MPG). I see 2 N80 valves, one by the power steering reservoir and one behind the throttle body attached to the fire wall. I removed them both, got a tiny bit of what may have been charcoal out of the lower valve and tested both with a 9 volt battery. Both were closed with no power and open when I attached the battery. I cleared the code and it returns within 30 minutes.
Possibly irrelevant info:
Changed the timing chains 3 weeks ago and the code popped up just afterward. Prior to changing the chains, all I saw was a Cam Position Sensor code that is now clear. The slightly rough idle was present to a greater degree before chains were changed but has improved.
SAI solenoids look good but their little rubber hoses don't look fantastic. Could this contribute to the rough idle or is it not part of the vacuum system?
Ignition coil is new and all plug wires tested to about 6k ohms.
I've looked up other's experience with P0411's and have seen the list of possible causes. Wondering if I'm missing a possible cause, if I can test the system further without having to buy parts etc, if the reduced mpg's and rough idle are related...
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I brought my 2004 VW Touareg V6(83k miles) to the dealer for a recall on the ignition call and much to my surprise, was presented with a diagnosis of a $6,000 problem! The dealer told me that the computer read some codes which say that the timing chain is stretched and needs to be replaced. They said it will take 4-5 days and should be done asap so it doesn't "go out", because if it does, it's an even more expensive problem. I took the car to another VW repair shop and they asked me if I heard any noised when I start it cold (like pebbles in a bucket). I have not had any problems like that at all, so they said I shouldn't worry until I start getting symptoms. They also said there is no recommended point (like 90,000 miles) when VW recommends the change, so it really shouldn't be a common problem. I want to do the right thing, but I don't want to rush into an expensive repair if it isn't necessary.
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Replacing the timing chains and tensioners on an SOHC Explorer, only to have the tensioners fail again after only a few thousand miles? I'm a pretty experienced back yard mechanic and have rebuilt several engines over the years with great results, but this one has me stumped. The only part of the instructions I did not do was to remove the valve springs, but everything was lined up as it should have been using the special tools required to set the timing. I really like the truck, but don't know if it's worth fixing if this is just going to happen again.
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Today I either broke timing chain or it fell off on the passenger side bank of my 08 F250 V10. Put a hole in valve cover. What to expect for repairs. Is this engine Zero tolerance.. unsure if I should expect bent valves or not and just how far I may have to go with this.. best way to test. I have a bore scope camera and mechanical abilities.
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I'm told by my dealer that I must replace the timing chain by 100,000 miles. I've also been told by others who've driven multiple vehicles over 250K miles that they've never replaced a timing chain on any of their vehicles. Who's right in this case?
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I was thinking about checking out the above vehicle at my local dealer (Chevrolet). They're asking 15.9k and it has 57k miles. I need to know if it has a timing belt or a timing chain and how reliable is the engine/transmission.
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I have a quick question, when a timing chain breaks on a gli does it cause damage to the engine(like mess up the piston and valves) need to know ASAP.
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My daughters 2004 f150 5.4 3v. 130k miles. Had a broken timing chain guide on passenger side. Changed phasers, solenoids, timing chains, crank gear, tensioners, and oil pump. Pulled pan and cleaned it and the pickup tube of pieces of the old guide. Engine had zero sludge. Very clean inside.
Put it all back together. Left crank sensor unplugged to rotate engine until it had good oil pressure which only took a few seconds. Plugged sensor back in. Truck started right up. Runs perfect. Drove perfect. Idles with no noise. But as soon as I rev it up a little, there is a HORRENDOUS squealing from the lower left of the engine. Pulled serpentine belt and squealing is still there. Used a stethoscope to determine its in the lower left behind the timing cover.
I haven't pulled the cover back off yet but what this could be? Everything went back together fine so I can't imagine what it is.
HOWEVER, I did notice that my new tensioners only had an oil hole in one of them. The two I removed both had an oil hole. So one of the new tensioners does not have an oil hole in the center of the plunger. I see online, that many did not come with an oil hole. But I'm wondering if this could be the source of the squealing? Maybe not oiling the chain enough and the squeal that I hear is the chain on the plastic guide?
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My truck has had this annoying tendency to drink coolant. I believe I took care of it by replacing the thermostat gasket. Not so, it drinks about a quart every 50 miles - so quite a bit really.
Finally bit the bullet and took it to the dealer so that they could figure out where the coolant was going.
Answer I got back was - timing cover gasket, water pump, lower radiator hose.
The water pump appears to be good, its just the gasket that's bad. So my question is - how significant is the timing chain cover leak? Poking around online it appears to be reasonably common, but sounds very expensive. The dealer indicated it would be 2 days work minimum.
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OK, my truck is making all kinds of horrible noises from the timing chain area. it is a 97 f150, 4wd with a 4.6. i know i need to replace it. BUT my question is, how long can i let it go before the chain breaks and sends valves into piston? And also what is the best timing set manufacturer? or are they all pretty good?
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I have a 4.2 with 330km (206k miles). Recently I have noticed some unfamiliar sounds that I'm trying to diagnose. First off, lately when starting the truck cold, it sometimes makes a metallic screech /clank-like noise. It just lasts for a moment when the engine catches, then disappears. Doesn't happen every time but has happened at least 1/2 dozen times the last couple of weeks. Sounds like metal gears colliding. Haven't noticed any drive-ability issues.
As well, I changed the oil a couple of days ago and when I stuck my head under the truck afterwards to check for leaks, I could hear a definite rattling / clattering noise from the area near the oil filter.
Does this sound like timing chain?
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I really love this little truck. It's got 129,000 on it, but when I shut it down I can hear the chain clattering on the guides a little. Makes me wonder how much longer it will go before jumping a tooth. The truck has always been well maintained, but is there any ballpark figure when they usually let go? Is it worth it to pull the engine and put in a new chain? I'm fairly new to the Ranger.
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I have a 2005 Ford Explorer with a 4.0 SOHC while the engine is running the left side timing chain rattles. I replaced the timing chain and guides and tensioner, the engine has good oil pressure but the noise is still there.
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It is timing chains that are prematurely stretching causing this startup noise. The news is that there is updated parts out there to address this and Ford now has a TSB on this issue formally admitting to it being a common problem. I go over it all in this video. There is also a link to just how it sounds in the description of the video on youtube.
Ford F150 3.5L Ecoboost Rattle Upon Start Up- Timing Chain Stretch Issues - YouTube...
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