Ford Tech. told me today the reason my a/c wouldn't cool is I have a bad evap. temp. sensor and this part was "non-replaceable" the fix is a HVAC Box from ford, (price includes a h/core replacement since dash would already be out) it has 85000 miles 2010 f150 Screw 4x4.is this my only option for repairing my a/c.
View 3 Replies2010 fx4 duel temp controls...
My driver side works great (heat and AC). My passenger side does not cool or heat properly. Not sure about the back.
From what I have read this is most likely the upper door actuator...Which is what I was hoping because the lower one is such a nightmare. Am I on the right track here?
I have a check engine light on which diagnosed by Autozone relates to O2 Sensor, Bank 2 Sensor 1.
I realize sensor 1 is upstream before cat converter. However, I've received varying opinions as to which side is Bank 2, driver or passenger.
2010 F150 4.6 V8, produced in 5/10
Recently, my CEL came on. I had the guys at Autozone read the code and they said it was the knock sensor on bank 2. I disconnected the battery to clear it but after 100 miles or so it came back on. Idling, my engine runs as quietly as it ever has (can't tell it's running if the windows are up) so I'm hoping that the sensor has gone bad. I can't hear any knock at any speed but the re-appearance of the light has noticeably affected the engine performance. Any link that even shows where the sensor is located? If I can find it, I can replace it.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2010 F150 with the 5.4 V8. How many cam shaft position sensor do I have ??? I replaced one but I swear I see one one the passenger side...
View 1 RepliesMy 2013 ford f150 4x4 ac does not blow very cool air . We have charged the compressor and that did not work. Then we Vac it down and replaced the expansion valve and recharged the compressor, still the same. Also on the max high setting the blower is really loud?
View 6 RepliesI have this info on my new F150 with the Eco. 80 deg. day pulling my dual axle 5000 lb boat 70 MPH. Temp was 199. Is this about right.
View 9 RepliesHaving issue with the outside temperature display being way off. It doesn't do it all the time, but does seem to happen if I've been plowing or something. I think I've had it happen in the summertime also, but can't remember the circumstances. Basically it must be happening because I'm not moving much air. Where the sensor is located, and could there be something that may be blocking the air flow? I know this is a piddlely little problem, but if it's easily remedied, I'd would really like an accurate reading.
View 14 RepliesJust noticed today that my trans temp always starts out from cold even after having driven it and it takes a little while to rise up to the temp I checked the other trans gauge same thing do I have a problem or does it really cool down that fast the truck sat for maybe 10 minutes.....
View 5 RepliesI'm a converted Chevy man and I don't think my 2011 F150 FX4 is cold enough. I am getting 46 degrees at highway speeds and outside vtemp is 77. My Chevy always get 38-40 in the same situations. What is eveybody getting? Is this normal?
View 10 RepliesAbout 3 months ago, I bought a 2012 F-150 XLT 5.0 4x4. I bought it from a private party, a.k.a. without a warranty. It's a Ford, right? What could possibly go wrong??
Shortly after I bought it, I started noticing that it was knocking and tapping when it got up to operating temperature. Also, the idle isn't very smooth.
I have read through several threads here regarding Coyote engines with similar symptoms, and I have come to the realization that my wallet may be about to go on a diet.
Here is a video I made today, moving my phone to various places in the engine compartment, behind the drivers front wheel, and under the truck.
2012 Ford F-150 5.0 Coyote Noises 80k Miles - YouTube....
I realize that it could run a long time like this, but I sometimes take long trips and I really don't want to end up with engine trouble in the middle of nowhere.
Considering I don't have a warranty, and assuming the problem is out-of-round cylinders and/or worn valve train parts, what is my best course of action?
Been having an issue lately with the AC system on my 2010 4.6L F150. The AC system is not working properly and is only blowing air the same temp as outside. In other words, if its 60 degrees in the morning the AC will blow cool, but later in the day its blowing warm. Pushes air no problem, but living in Florida, it's mainly warm air. Compressor clutch is kicking on and off fairly rapidly when on max AC setting (5-10 seconds on, then 5-10 seconds off). Hooked up gauge to low pressure side and the readings were 60psi WITH compressor on, then fell to 30psi when the compressor turns off. Where to start? Haven't done too many AC fixes before. Potentially a bad compressor? Overcharged lines?
View 7 RepliesExperienced noise coming from the temperature control unit? I generally hear it immediately after turning on AC or Heat and then when I adjust the tempature up or down. It only last for a few seconds then goes away. I plan on taking it by the Ford dealership. 2010 F150 Platinum...
View 7 RepliesI have a 2010 Toyota Corolla 1.8L, the base model.
I recently had a check engine light, VSC off light (blinking) and traction control light come on. I took it to Autozone and had a p0037 code ring up for a new Bank 1 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor (downstream). I believe I have found the correct sensor (located under car, approximately near drivers seat) and it looks simple to replace, aside from the fact that the wires go through the car body.
Can confirm that I have located the correct sensor? And if so, what is the best way to get to where the wires connect?
Is it located under the drivers seat? What should I do about the rubber grommet located under the car where the wires appear to pass through?
Where the oil pressure sensor is located on a 2013 F150 with the V8 is located?
View 3 RepliesIt reached 93 here today and it has always taken too long for my AC to reach a cool temperature. I have never had the AUTO setting slow the fan down even at highway speeds. I am moving to TX in the next few months and I already know what it is like driving it down there...HOT! I could really like improving the efficiency of the AC of my Ex.
Can I use the same insulation used for home AC lines on the truck? Is there any high-temp insulation I could fun over the lines? I found a coolant shut-off valve for the heater core on 7.3 trucks, but not for the 6.0. Is there an equivalent for us with the 6.0?
Experiencing cooling problems with a truck this new? My 2 month old supercrew 5.0 began over heating on a road trip last week. After about 400 miles of driving I see coolant temp start climbing until the overheating warning popped up. Pulled over, turned engine off, popped the hood and did not notice any obvious signs of overheating. Ended up waiting about 15 minutes, started truck up again, temp gauge reading 1/2.
Get back on the road, within 5 min temp starts climbing again, reaches ~ 3/4 then all of a sudden returns to 1/2. Continue on 10 min later temp gauge climbs from 1/2 to overheating quickly. I pulled over again same situation no obvious signs of overheating, but allow sometime to cool off. Started truck again temp gauge reads 1/2. Continue driving and temp gauge seems possessed, going from 1/2 to 3/4 back to 1/2 to almost overheating as I nursed it to the next dealer that I could find.
Dealer tech was able to mimic the problem and believes that coolant is not flowing properly. Thermostat replaced, water pump pulled and inspected, air bleed out of the system, all with no improvement. Now heads are being pulled/replaced to see if this solves the problem. Its depressing to have my new truck with 2,382 miles sitting under the knife at the dealer.
2009 F-150 FX4 SuperCrew 4X4 5.4L
My ABS and stability control lights are on. I had the codes pulled today (listed in order):
1) C1298 (Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal Fault)
2) C1165 (Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Input Circuit Failure)
3) C1963 (Stability Control Inhibit Warning)
4) C1299 (Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal Fault)
5) C1175 (Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Input Circuit Failure)
I'll ignore the stability control code for now since I'm sure it is tied to the speed sensor errors. Anyways, I decided to inspect the rear wheels and I found this sucker just hanging beneath the right rear brake caliper:
Is this a speed sensor? Where does it plug into? Diagrams would be extremely useful! I am planning on ordering 2 new sensors for each rear wheel but I don't know where to begin.
I would get "Tire Pressure Sensor Fault" on my display all the time. The problem occurred mostly on long trips, however, it would occur from time to time on shorter trips. I complained to the dealer about this every time I went in for an oil change. They could never find a problem and wanted me to bring it in when the fault was occurring. Of course these thing never happen when you're by a dealer. To my dealers credit they said they would fix the problem out of warranty if we can find it.
Well I found the problem. As strange as it sounds if I use the cigarette lighter with a power USB adapter to charge my phone or iPad I get the fault. If I use the 12V accessory port on the dash no fault.
Last weekend we drove to Nisswa MN & back (about 1,200 miles). To test the theory I only used the 12V accessory port and no fault occurred. Normally the fault would occur w/in 50 miles then just continue on being annoying the whole rest of the trip. I wish I would have found this out 57,000 miles ago. I use the adapter because the USB port on the dash will only charge my iPhone if the phone is off.
This morning, my 2011 F150, told me that my rear driver side door was a jar on the center console. I opened and closed it several times using the inside handle and the outside handle. It affecting the battery since the interior lights stay on. Is there a way to reset / clean the sensor so that I don't have to take it into the Dealer?.. Their next appoint is mid next week.
View 3 RepliesMy 2004/ 4.6L F-150 had misfire issues and rough idle. Since changing the plugs and a COP the idle is better. It seems to stutter a bit at low RPMs around town, but it fine at higher RPMs. What to check next. Also since fixing the misfire and clearing the codes from the computer it won't enable all the emissions monitors. I've drive over 100 miles and the EVAP monitor still isn't on. The truck has about 213K miles on it.
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