Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2013 - Idle Was A Bit Jumpy Warm Or Cold
Jul 8, 2014
Got a 13 f150 with the 5.0. I bought it used with about 14 thous kms, now it has 17. Ever since I owned it I noticed the idle was a bit jumpy warm or cold. I didn't really pay any attention to it as it wasnt throwing a CEL or anything but now that I have a roush exhaust and intake I have started to notice it a lot more....not that its worse but at idle my truck sounds like a boat. Weird comparison I know. It seems like it'll jump within +/- 200 rpm @ idle which IIRC is 1K rpm.
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AC used for the first time since purchasing the truck last Oct. I notice and passengers in truck with me as well notice that the AC is not strong at all and it fluctuates from cold to warm with a heavy damp smell almost like its letting fresh air in mixing with the cold AC. It seems to be doing this more so when driving but will also do it at at idle after driving. Of course dealership states perfect temp blowing @34 and Freon at perfect levels. Max AC will not blow you out of the truck and reg ac at lowest setting feels like its on a vent setting. When AC first comes out it smells very damp mildew smell. 2013 F-150 Limited 3.5.....
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I was a proud owner of this 2013 F150 3.7L, when i bought it brand new, but now after 30000 miles, or after last oil change the engine is making an inconsistent tick sound when warm. The sound can be somewhat compared to parts of exhaust cooling down because it blends in with that sound pretty well. The sound might have been present before the oil change however I have not noticed any sounds until after the oil change was done.
The sound is an inconsistent but repetitive tick, I mean tick-5second break-double tick-3second break-tick-10second break. Sound is present only when warm at around 500rpm and is harder to notice if engine is revved to like 2000rpm, but by increasing engine speed the sound is also more intense and faster. No mods done to the truck, not driven hard. I did put premium gas couple times.
There is no sound after starting the engine in a situation where the truck was sitting in a driveway overnight, even by the time i get to work (5km highway and 5km city) driving it moderately it does not always make the sound by the time i get to work. So now i suspect three things.
1. I have been idling my car a lot and sometimes used the cheapest gas from some no name gas stations.
2. When oil gets warm it gets thin and then it is somehow causing this sound.
3. There is just something wrong with the engine.
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So the other morning I drive the 140 miles out of town to work for the week. when I pull up to the job site the cooling fans were revving really really high! never heard this before. then it went back to normal after I opened the gate and parked my truck and shut it off. I'm driving maybe 5 miles tops to the job and back to the motel every day. however that is far enough that my heater should be warming up and it's not even coming close to warm. it blows cold air. and to compound that I'm not sure the cooling fans are even working. they don't appear to be. Is there a connection here?
2011 xlt 4x4 super crew.....
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I have a 2014 Hyundai SFS 2.4L with about 50,000 miles and love it so far. However, I have a concern, when I am driving on the highway or even back roads the air conditioning cranks real cold. However, when idling at a light there's an obvious temperature difference that is warmer. I have ECO "off" because when ECO was on it completely shut off the air when accelerating or idling. Is this a scroll compressor? The reason I ask is my FORD had a scroll compressor and exhibited the same symptoms and it turned out it was a $35 faulty valve, but convincing numerous shops it was, was the problem. Also, could it be low Freon? If so, does it take R-134A and is it something I can do myself?
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5.0 coyote exhaust leak .. Since the cold weather has arrived i have noticed a new noise. During cold start engine warm up I hear a nice little tick-tick-tick which sounds to me like an exhaust leak. Is this a common problem? I have just over 58,000 miles would this be covered under powertrain or do they have some nice exclusions for exhaust?
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I have a 2013 F150 4x4 with a 6.2 and it has a slight miss at idle. It's done this since new and over the 20kms it has now I've been given the round around on it from 2 different dealers. I'm told there is no code so they can't do anything. I'm thinking maybe a coil? Or perhaps injector?
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2013 3.5 Ecoboost. Starting the truck first thing in the morning, it idles very rough for about 30 seconds and then smoothes out. If I drop it into gear it stays rough as I back out of the driveway. Once underway it runs fine and otherwise runs/idles very smooth for the rest of the day. Doesn't appear to have any other symptoms of spark plugs/boots misfire so I'm thinking it might be something else?
On my old 02 F150 with the 5.4 this usually happened when the Idle air control (IAC) would get plugged up with carbon. I'd clean it and the idle would smooth out. This truck doesn't appear to have one.
Spark plugs are on my list for the near future. 47k on the truck so they are almost geting due. Trying to get my superduty sold before I spend a lot of time on this truck.
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I've got a 2013 ecoboost with 31,000 mile on it. Generally it's been good but at 30,000 mile it started sounding like a diesel on cold starts. Usually after sitting overnight the first start rattles like a 6.0 liter diesel for about 3-8 seconds then it's quiet. It won't do it again all day usually. The dealer says there's no codes so everything it all good. It never did this until I hit 30,000 miles.
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I have 1700 miles on my truck and the A/C cycles between cold and warm air. I have taken it to 2 Ford dealers and they agree there is something wrong but their tests are apparently up to Ford specs. They logged complaints with Ford and they were told this was by design with the new trucks and it was normal for the compressor to constantly cycle. New 2013??
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I got some issues with my f150 2009 supercab... 6,5 box 5.4 6speed 160k on it...
For the past 30 k my truck vibrates between 20/30 kmh when accelerating mostly when making a right turn and when engine is warm, feels just like driving with 4x4 and doing a u-turn....
I'll get the transmission flushed but didn't work (does shift smoother though). They said the u-joints were still good ,no play. I don't hear any strange noise either
In the last while i read a lot about trouble with the pinion angle/driveshaft/slip yoke and what all on the newer f150
Can I grease the slip yoke myself easily or? Is there a complete aftermarket driveshaft available that solves the problem permanently instead of temporary or would it be the transfercase? Cause i didn't buy this truck new so not sure if the transfer case oil ever got changed,or does it not need to be changed ever?
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I sometimes pulloff after a minute then Im off, but slowly until the engine temp gets to the middle. I won't go caveman on it until the oil temp is almost in the middle too (never quite gets to the middle for the engine oil temp)
Is this logic right? Lexus guy told me it'll warm up as you go. If it was like zero degrees out then yes Id let it idle for 10-15 minutes.
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2014 ES 300 hybrid- Rear seats are extra warm to hot. Took my car twice to the dealer and they are not able to locate the problem.
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I have a 2014 Lexus IS350 Fsport. When I press the button outside air mode and no fans are on. I get warm/hot air even when the outside temp is cold.
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Morning are getting colder engine runs at 1100 to warm up OK I understand that. But after running around town and engine is warm, I checked again, still at 1100 RPM. Shouldn't it be lower or is that what the batteries need?
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2007 GS 350 109,500 miles. My heater was blowing cold at idle and warm when driving so I took it to dealer. To my surprise, dealer says its a blown head gasket. No other symptoms. No white smoke, no smells, no warning lights on dash, and running fine. Just had VVT gear recall done last week.
Fortunately I have Lexus extended warranty good thru 125k miles and Feb 2014. I do my own maintenance (plugs, oil changes etc). Have records for all. But have not done coolant change (due at 100k).
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I have a FWD 2009 Sienna with 62k that vibrate on cold days. It only vibrate when the shifter is on drive or reverse while stepping on the brake. There is no vibration while driving, only when I'm at a stop light. After the engine warms up, the vibration goes away. I can feel the vibration on the steering wheel. I just want some kind of knowledge before taking it in.
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When I first start me car up, doesn't matter the outdoor temperature it idles terrible jumping up and down. When I go to put it in first gear and attempt to pull out it's very jumpy/jerky because of this rough idle. Once I drive a little bit if I stop it will idle fine. This problem seems be slightly worse when it's wet/raining/humid.
Its throwing codes P1128 Manf Control p0300 multiple misfires and then p0301,0302,0303,0304 which is misfire for that individual cylinder. Also my oil light blinks once in awhile, think that could possible be sep issue though.
I changed plugs, the old ones were really white... I believe that means running lean?
Put in new coil/wires
Gas Filter
Mass air flow sensor
Changed 02 sensors
Also did the seafoam treatment, none of it seemed to work...
Though about possibly changing temp sensor next. I hope it has nothing to do with fuel injectors....
2000 Jetta 2.0l 4cy AEGengine
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My '06 GS450h has developed a fault where the heater blows cold at idle and low revs but blows warm when driving or revving the engine at a standstill. The coolant hasn't dropped at all and the car never goes above halfway on the temp gauge. Its starting to get frustrating now the cold weather has set in and temps dropping! Long journeys are ok as at high speeds it stays warm but short journeys are uncomfortable!
I just had a feel of the rad hoses and hoses that go into the matrix (engine side of bulk head) and matrix hoses feel warm (both of them), the top hose to the rad is warm but not hot and bottom hose is cold suggesting the stat hasn't opened yet. Its cold outside so getting the car up to temp is quite difficult without a long drive (rush hour at the mo).
Still I just had the car parked on the drive and cranked the heater up to max and held the accelerator for a while and super warm air blows out. The engine cuts back out as "normal operating temp" has been reached for battery mode and then the heater goes cool again! Still the bottom radiator hose is cool and top hose not massively warm. It has never overheated thus far and I drive 150miles a day back and forth to Reading from Cheltenham 4 nights a week.
Only thing I can think of is a sticky thermostat or water pump not operating sufficiently enough to circulate the water? Its getting colder and short trips where it used to blow warm air nice and quickly (within 3-5miles) are becoming unpleasant!
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So I was wondering if I could get everyone's input on this. I recently got a 2013 FX2 5.0 with the 3.55 axle. I traded in a 2007 5.4 FX2. It seems everyday I learn something new. I would like to discuss the difference between both trucks. I will list a few DIFFRENCES and if you all could list a few more that would be great....I am sure there are some I don't know.
5.0 motor, 6 speed transmission, Electronic locking rear end, Electronic fans versus clutch fan system, Bigger rotors/ brakes, electronic power steering, no fuel cap, Power fold mirrors and I ASSUME I can remove these spark plugs without breaking them.
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When should I get the first oil change in our 2013 F150 5.0? We took a 1,000 mile trip right after getting the truck. It's been two weeks and I have put around 1,600 miles on the truck.
Also, how often is everyone getting regular oil changes with the 5.0?
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