Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: CEL Code P1450 - Unable To Bleed Up Fuel Tank Vacuum
Mar 14, 2014
Plugged in my SCT when I got home, P1450 code. "Unable to bleed up fuel tank vacuum" I did a search here but nothing in the 09-up section.
P1450 Error Code Excessive Fuel tank Vacuum - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans
I'm still googling but it seems I need to start by cleaning out the lines and evap which I'm not sure where its located. I'm going to get on a creeper tomorrow morning and have a peek but just wanted to see if any of my brothers ( or sisters ) here have had this issue. I just turned 35K miles.
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Hearing a sloshing scraping thumping sound coming from their 36 gallon tank under hard braking accelerating? It's loudest when the tank is between 200 and 150 miles to empty, I checked the spare tire and its tight, haven't had a chance to crawl under and look around yet though, I think something inside came loose. 2013 XLT.
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Replaced a bad clutch on a 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer. I have been unable to bleed the slave cylinder after replacing both it and the master cylinder. I suspect either the slave cylinder is bad, or I put the incorrect throwout bearing in when the clutch was replaced. The slave cylinder is located inside of the bell housing
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I have a 2006 Prius, 149,000 miles. The gas gauge has just become stuck on 2 bars. I discovered this after attempting to fill the gas tank. I was unable to pump the gas into the tank. The pump kept clicking off immediately. I was able to slowly put about 3.5 gals of gas in the tank, but very slowly. I also tried to add gas from a gas can, and the same problem occurred: the gas would go in very slowly. I have never had the fueling problem where the pump repeatedly clicks off. I tried several gas stations that had pumps that worked for me in the past, and didn't have any luck. The fuel gauge failure and the gas pumping problem have appeared simultaneously.
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I am unable to get fuel into the fuel tank. the reserve light keeps blinking even after several gallons of fuel has been poured in. Now the battery has gone off and the car is not moving at all.
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Had to put a new tranny in my 1997 F150 XLT Lariat 4x4 5.4 liter engine about 3 weeks ago and now have gotten the check engine light. Took it to autozone and code 1450 was the only code listed. They said it was was a vacuum problem, but when I checked the code at a web site it is listed as a secondary air injector system circuit shot to B+.
My question is which is correct and how to repair?
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Where to start looking to resolve this code. It is not an intermittent code. It returns after about 3 to 4 key turns. Truck idles a little rough but runs fine. I have looked up the code and causes but wondering how to deal with this directly and fixed it. I'm wanting to sell my truck for something bigger and would like to solve the issue before hand. 2003 Ford Ranger Edge...
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A buddy of mine has a 2003 Ford Ranger Edge V6 3.0L, he got the code P1450 the other day and asked me to look at it. Got all the info on what it could be but where ex actually is the EVAP canister and CV solenoid located? And what is the problem?
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2011 F150 SCREW FX4 6.5' box Ecoboost... All of a sudden I had no power assist for the brakes.
In a "unit down" situation waiting for a replacement vacuum brake pump assembly from Ford? My truck has been stuck at the dealership for going on three weeks now waiting for this part. No one seems to be able to say when the part will be available, which suggests to me that Ford is waiting on the supplier to produce more.
They're paying for a rental, but the 2013 Escape isn't anything near my F-150. A week maybe, I could understand, but on 6/11/2013 it's going to be three full weeks since my truck was towed into the dealership. How many of these things are on the road? How do they not have this part readily available?
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2009 f150 4x4. My front hubs are ratcheting, I probably have a vacuum leak somewhere. Any trick to find it? I had to drive about 90 kilometers to get home, hope I didn't ruin anything. I don't have a vacuum pump, but I have a vacuum gauge.
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Having issues with the vacuum falling off to the hubs when driving and light throttle. I know makes no sense,but kept fighting this thing making vary harsh rubbing sound since I bought it used and I know its the little collar on the back side of hub that engages to hub to make the 4x4 connection but it looses vacuum when driving and very light throttle/load.
I verified using a vacuum gauge ran inside vehicle when driving. Checked all lines and hubs,everything good. Solenoid has vacuum when running but seems to quit when light load or throttle and as soon as vacuum falls off then the collar starts to engage and rubs but doesn't fully engage. I don't get it. Unless there's something on the computer side of it shutting off the solenoid or something.
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I have a 2010 F-150 FX4 SC 4x4 5.4l w/ automatic that has 52,000 miles on the clock give or take, unmodified with the only exception of a remote oil filter relocation unit.
I bought the truck with 48,000 on it and did not have this noise, I've had it back to the dealer and their best mechanic went for a ride with me and the noise was duplicated and the mechanic had the deer in the headlight look on his face and said he'd never heard anything like that before. I've searched the net for anything similar like this but have not found anything. The noise rears it's ugly head after the truck is warmed up and it first started around 55mph and went away at 65mph , then re-emerged at 75mph and left again at 82mph.
Tried the usual test things while noise was present first loading and unloading the steering left and right, (wheel bearing) no change. Next I applied the brakes (caliper rubbing) no change. Then I tried shifting to neutral (transmission or carrier bearing) no change. I also tried shifting into and out of 4x4 (transfer case) no change. If I speed up above those speeds or slow down below them, the noise disappears.
Recently... the noise seems to be more consistent and when it's present at 80mph and you let off the throttle, the noise is present all the way down to 55mph then magically goes away. The noise to me sounds like a vacuum leak in a rubber hose or a dry spinning shaft in a bushing, sort of a low hum that sounds like it's coming anywhere from the motor to the transmission area.
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I recently bought a new 2013 F-150 Ecoboost 4x4. Both times I've filled the gas tank, it fills to around 26 gallons, but the gauge on the instrument panel doesn't show it at "Full", but rather around the 3/4 mark. I'm by no means a "car guy", so I'm not sure if this is part of the "break-in" or if there's something wrong.
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Looks like my gas tank door spring busted.
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I have a 2014 350 crew diesel short box. I am told, I have a 28 gallon tank but can't get over 22 gallons in it even though my gauge show e and my read out says I have 10 miles left until empty? Dealer says the left over 6 gallons is a reserve...
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I've only had my F150 for about 3 weeks and I think I've discovered a design flaw-
If you park on a 20% or steeper incline and the tank is less than about 1/8th full - the truck won't start. It has the 36 gallon tank - and the fuel pickup is located in the center.
The service rep told me that they have the same problem with the showroom trucks when they park them on a grass hill in front of the dealership. They have to roll them down onto the street to start them if the gas tank is too low...
Boy, I tell ya, there's no disclaimer sticker telling me to not let the gas get too low if you live in an area with lots of hills. I don't think I would have bought it if I had know this. The service guy described another owner of an F250 having the same problem...
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I have been a happy 2009 Prius owner for 2 weeks now but am a bit concerned with the fuel capacity I have been experiencing.
The first tank I went to fill-up when there were three blips left on the fuel guage and the tank only took 5.7 gallons. I wrote this off as I did not know how much gas was in the tank when purchased (the guage was on full). The mileage was around 250 miles.
Today I had to stop again for gas. There were 3 blips left on the guage and the tank again only took 5.4 gallons. I am not concerned about the MPG, but with the tank only taking around 5 gallons.
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Is there an easy way to drain all the gas out of the gas tank of a 2009 Toyota Camry Sedan, LE automatic transmission. Is there a drain plug or anything like that? I've never done anything like this so I'm hoping there is a relatively easy way to do it.
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I have the code P0453 set and believe I need to replace the fuel tank pressure sensor. I have the part and want to know if this part can be replaced without removing the fuel tank. There is a video on youtube that shows replacing the part by lowering the tank with a transmission jack after the straps have been removed. Replacing the sensor by touch and feel maybe using mirrors to see what you are doing? It might be possible to cut a hole in the bed and patch it later but that seems pretty time consuming too.
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When do you typically see your fuel light come on? I never need to let the tank run down very far but the other week I was curious about this. The fuel gauge was way less than 1/4 tank left and the range display was ~50kms. When I filled up shortly after it looked like there still would have been at least a gallon in the tank still.
Just feels weird because my last car (Camry) would throw the fuel light when you still had a full 1/4 left in the tank.
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