Ford - F150 :: Check Engine Light Started Flashing / Cylinder 4 Misfire Code
Mar 13, 2012
1997 Ford F150 - 133K Miles - 6cyl - 4.2L. This is a truck that gets less than 2K/year put on it. Has had "issues" with worn bearings and holding oil pressure for a few years now. Yesterday, the check engine light started flashing (as opposed to solidly lit) and the code came back as a cylinder #4 misfire (only the one code). The truck was clearly not firing on all cylinders and at idle, ran terribly (couldn't be driven). I just did a compression test on all the cylinders and all measured around 140-145psi except the #4 which read almost 170psi. I rechecked this a few times as well as a couple of the others and am now sure of the results. What could cause this one cylinder to have a higher compression ? Is whatever is causing this increase in the compression, also be the cause of them misfire ?? I'm stumped here and quite frankly, expected the compression on the #4 cylinder to be really low as opposed to the others.
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I have a 2004 Audi A6 wagon that has an intermittently flashing check engine light. I took it to the dealership to have the codes read and they told me that they got codes for Cylinder 2 and Cylinder 5 misfires. Additionally they got a code saying the Engine Coolant Temperature Sender was electronically faulty. What is this part and what does it do? Is it essential to fix it immediately?
The dealership recommended changing the spark plugs and the air filters for the cylinder misfire issue. We are also talking about replacing the timing belt since the car has 105k miles on it. I know there are several other parts that are replaced during the timing belt replacement (like the water pump, thermostat, oil seals, etc). Is it essential to replace these items if there is no immediate need to do so?
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I have a 1999 Toyota Corolla. 4 cylinders.
I was on the road about 2 hours from home when my check engine light came on flashing. It stopped flashing so I kept driving. Three more hours of driving at highway speeds and it only came back on once. I then took it into autozone and the code reader told me I had a Cylinder 3 Misfire. The guy told me to change my spark plugs and I would be fine. It was time for a spark plug change anyhow so I drove home and did it. After I changed the spark plugs the car did not start at all. It would cough and sputter and try to start but not actually start. Changed the spark plug wires and then the car stopped even coughing and sputtering. It just didn't start.
I then noticed that my fuel line that feeds directly into the engine was rotten right next to the engine and if I pushed it in I could get the car to try to start. (Try and fail, but at least try.) The fuel line is a molded piece of rubber that flares at each end. It was one of the flares that was rotten and didn't seem to be sealing anymore. The hose is 7 mm inner diameter in the middle and about half an inch on the ends. I took some 3/8 in fuel line and used it to cover over one of the flares. The car tries to start now but wont. 3 of the four cylinders crank. I don't understand how I could break my car on such a simple repair job.
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I've got a problem with a 2000 Impreza 2.5RS 5spd. It started with the check engine light coming on. A trip to Auto zone revealed that the O2 sensor was the problem. But on the way home, the light came on again and started flashing. All the while the car started acting like it had a misfire. It idles really rough and the exhaust smells like it's running really rich. I've replaced the plugs and wires, and all corners of the ignition coil check out properly as well. Can the O2 sensor cause a misfire in one or more of the cylinders? Or is something else that I should be interrogating as the cause?
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I have a 1996 ford taurus lx v6 3.0 dohm..my check engine light flashing. then it stop flashing..i did replace spark plug,wires,coil pack..when it start to flash i put it gear the car start to shake and sputter.i really don't know why its doing that the car has about 150000 miles on it..i do get a code p0302 Cylinder #2 Misfire..the new plugs and wires and coil pack is about 2 weeks old..
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1997 Ford Ranger with 190K miles has check engine light on with P302 computer code, meaning misfire on cylinder 2. Engine runs rough at idle only once it warms up, which only takes a minute. It is usually fine while driving, but it's a lot easier to feel a misfire at lower RPMs than at higher ones. Added fuel injector cleaner to gas for a couple tanks, no change. My mechanic has checked spark plugs, fuel injector, o2 sensor, and everything is ok. Dry compression test shows good compression. He thinks it may be a valve sticking, which means a valve job: expensive. Is there anything else that can be done? Why is there no misfire when it is first started?
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I have a 2007 Toyota Prius with just under 30,000 miles. Yes, I don't drive all that much, which makes the Prius the perfect car. I get it serviced every 6 months by the dealer. So far, other than oil changes, the only actual maintenance has been tires, a 12 volt battery, and a $300 "inspection".
A few weeks ago the "Check Engine" light came on. I pulled the code P0301, which translated to "Misfire on cylinder 1". The car was running great at that time, and since clearing the code it has continued to run without the light coming on again. Given that my maintenance is more time-related than mileage-related, it's possible that the ignition system needs attention. However I'm reluctant to bring that up at my next maintenance appointment, because the guy writing up the service order will always answer "Yes" to every "Do I need ..." question.
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I bought my 2008 Prius 9-14 with 29,000 miles on it. (rebuilt title-big mistake I now know). I found out after I bought it that it had sat for 5 years before it was rebuilt) I figured it was a miracle the hybrid battery even worked.
I had no problems until 2-4-15 when check engine light was flashing and the car was shaking. The local mechanic said was the “clutch” (torque converter), took the engine and transmission out of the car to fix it ($2200). But he realized the mass air flow sensor (MAP) was not working even after he put a new one in so had me take the car to the Toyota dealer. The dealer found a cut in the engine harness and advised me to replace the harness which he said would cost $2800. The local mechanic saw the cut via my cell phone photo and offered to fix it for free which he did.
The next day check engine light comes on after driven 25 miles with code PO 301. (means misfires in cylinder one). The local mechanic switches cylinder 1 with 4, same code the next day, local mechanic switches the coils to the cylinders, still the next day the same code. He switched the fuel injectors. Same problem of cylinder 1 misfire. He cleaned the oil out of the intake manifold, did fuel injection cleaning, and cleaned gunk out of the fuel line. Car would drive good about 20 miles then same check engine light, same code, sometimes code PO300 (random multiple misfires).
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(This is a continuation of a previous thread: [URL] ..... )
I have a 2005 Nissan Sentra with 75,000 miles on it. Several months ago (see above link) the check engine light came on with a P0304 cylinder 4 misfire code. The only symptom appears to be a rough idle/shaking every 3rd or 4th start for the first 10-15 seconds, but runs smoothly afterwards. My mechanic replaced all my spark plugs (I had new plugs put it at 50,000 miles for the same issue) of which the one from cylinder 4 was worn down much more than the rest. The problem persisted so they replaced my fuel pump and fuel filter and switched the spark coils from cylinder 4 to a different cylinder, but the code still read cylinder 4 so it wasn't the coil. That was back in October.
I took my car back in last week for the same problem and without starting my car (because the problem is worst on the first start) they pushed my car into the bay and did a smoke test, no leaks in the fuel lines. Then they checked the cylinder and said that there was "excess" fuel in the cylinder and replaced the fuel injector. Then after ~3 days the check engine came back on with the same P0304 misfire code. Previous repairs/diagnostics rule out spark plugs, coils, fuel pressure, and injectors.
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I own the 2014 Santa fe turbo 2.0 litre limited which has 4000 km on it. Within 210 km the engine light came on 3 times. I took it into the shop and they ran a code of P0303 which is a misfire, they changed the coils #2 and #3 and cleared the code. The second time it showed the same code but the shop said it was in the history so that is why the same code came up again. They ran an update ECM? and all was good. Now the 3rd time they tell me no code has come up and can't do anything about the engine (they cleared it) but it was like chasing ghosts. My vehicle runs great so not sure why I am constantly having this issue.
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I know it is a random cylinder misfire code however I started my car in the morning and it was fine I moved it and put it back in my driveway. I started it up later and waited for it to heat up i came back outside 10 min later and my check engine light was flashing and my car was shaking like crazy you could tell the engine was misfiring like crazy. I had under a quarter of a tank but not empty yet. I shut it off and turned it back on and it was still doing it. I drove the mile to the gas station the way it was.
Under partial throttle it was revving to 4500 and over 5, had to let of throttle to make the car shift up a gear. I filled up and started the car again performed fine after that however the check engine light was solid now and still on. I went to my local mechanic and he read that code P0300. I changed my spark plugs that day and they were crap the original spark plugs I have 65,xxx on my car now. Car is smooth now. I cleared check engine when i saw him first and it did not come back on all day even before i changed the spark plugs later that night. Why my light was flashing and why my car was acting like that till i filled up?
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2000 Tacoma v6 has has always ran good, but has check engine light code P300 & P306. cly 3 & cly 6 missfire, lean bank 1. Vacuum test showed no problems.
I've changed plugs & wires, switched coils around cleaned mass air flow sensor, checked timing. Ran Seafoam through intake, and gas tank. Check engine light went out for about three miles, then came back on. What else can I do to keep that blinking check engine light off?
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Got a 1996 Ford Ranger with the 4.0L in it that has a misfire on the #3 cylinder and giving check engine code: P303. Have tried new plugs, wires, distributor, switching out the coil pack with a known good, checked injectors for pulse, checked injectors, moved injectors and still the misfire remains on #3. Removed the valve covers and all appears to be well.
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I have a 2001 Honda CRV with about 140,000 miles. It is an upstate NY car, so has seen its share of salt and rough winter driving, has a little bit of rust.
I recently brought it in for repairs because it was overheating. It was over the holiday weekend and I had a job interview to get to so I brought it a chain, which was the only open mechanic I could find. They told me there was a coolant leak and replaced the radiator.
The next day, the check engine came on. Cylinder misfire code. I took it back to them and they wouldn't give me a straight answer on what was going on but insist they told me that would happen and it needed more repairs which I had apparently refused. They told me it's probably the spark plugs/wires are old but maybe there's more damage, but basically that they didn't want to deal with it.
So I brought the car to my regular guy. He says, yeah it needs a tune-up. So he replaces the spark plugs and wires etc and gives it back. I drove it for a day and the light came back on. So I brought it back to him again and he refused to do anything. Wouldn't give me some possible causes or explanations, just says come pick it up. Didn't say stop driving it, take it to a dealer, he just reset the check engine light and said its probably fine.
The next time I drove the car, while it was warming up the check engine light was flashing. By the time the engine was warm the light had stopped flashing and was on.
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I am at about my wits end with this P0301 (Misfire On Cylinder #1) code on my 2003 Ford F150 4.6L. I've replaced the coil pack on that cylinder, all the spark plugs, and replaced the fuel injector on that cylinder. We keep clearing the code and it keeps on coming back.
The weird thing is that it only misfires after the truck has set for a few hours and then it only misfires when I first put it in gear. Once I am out of the driveway and on the road it's fine for most of the day unless I let it sit for several hours and then it might misfire again.
We noticed that the connector to the fuel injector is wobbly and doesn't snap tight to the fuel injector (before and after it was replaced) due to the clips on the side not working well. We zip tied it together this afternoon to make it fit tightly to the fuel injector to see if that works.
What could be causing this? Other than that misfire the engine sounds great and the trucks runs very well.
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Driving the other night I ran drove over a pot hole going about forty pulled up to the stop light and my car starts to make funny noises, barley got the car moving again but managed to get home. I hooked my computer up to it and it says misfire at cylinder 2 and 4.
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So when I bought the car, it had a check engine light. I had it checked it said cylinder 5 misfire. I assumed it was the glow plug so I bought it and replaced the glow plugs myself. Check engine light went away for about a day then came back on. Got it checked again and still said cylinder 5 misfire. This is my first diesel and I'm clueless as to what's wrong.
2001 7.3 Limited with 232k miles Bergen County NJ.
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OK, got a check engine light today when I fired up the Ranger. Like I posted previously it is running kind of rough so guess I know why now.
Took it down and got the codes read it have a miss fire on cylinder 5. Picked up some plugs and wires, got to get those E3's out of there, but kind of think that's really not going to fix the problem. So that probably leaves the coil pack or injectors.
So what's the consensus on the best coils to use? Also, being an 18 wheeler for more years than I care to remember, I've learned swapping just 1 injector is never the way to go. So whats the best type of injectors to get and where the best place to get them should it come to that?
Oh, it's a 2000 3.0L Flex fuel 5 speed.
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I have a 2005 f150 with 96,000 miles. Long story short, last August I was headed to the mountains going up a steep long hill and the engine light come on. once i was over the pass the light went off. During my 4 wheelin' trip it never came back on until I was headed home and going over another pass and then it stayed on for a couple of days. I had it checked and it was a cylinder 5 misfire. I did some research and found that replacing the coil cover might fix the problem and if not the spark plugs would need to be changed.
I changed the coil cover, problems solved... until I headed to the mountains. light came on and then eventually went off later that day. I didnt think much of it. then a few months later i was headed to the mountains again and the light came on in the same place on the steep incline hill. I. took it back to the shop, same reading. I decided it was time to replace the spark plugs anyways so I would invest. I have new plugs and everything is good however, I had no plans to go to the mountains in the near future. Now, a few months later I headed to the mountains and crossed my fingers it would not come on but it did.
I've done the research again and it seemed like the coil cover and spark plugs are usually the cause of the problem...however I have changed mine. The light is now off again. I don't understand what is triggering the problem and what is really happening and if it is safe to keep taking to the mountains with this happening. I did notice that everything was fine at 60MPH but once i hit the hill and steeped on the gas to go 65 and hit 4-5RMP that is when the check engine light came on...
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So when I bought the car, it had a check engine light. I had it checked it said cylinder 5 misfire. I assumed it was the glow plug so I bought it and replaced the glow plugs myself. Check engine light went away for about a day then came back on. Got it checked again and still said cylinder 5 misfire. This is my first diesel and I'm clueless as to what's wrong. Any way to check what's wrong myself?
Also just to double check, the cylinder number is 1, 3, 5, 7 for the passenger side front to back right? And 2, 4, 6, 8 for drivers side? And front to back means when looking at the front of the car? 2001 7.3 Excursion Limited with 232k miles...
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I have a 2008 FX2 5.4L F150. Recently it began to lose power on a friend driving it out of town. He got a check engine light then it just progressively became unable to produce power. It ran but he got down to 10 mph before he could get to a firestone. I got it to a local Ford dealer and they say i need a new engine. They gave me codes for cam sensor and timing and #5 and #6 misfire. (344, 345)
No oil in radiator, no water in oil. The crazy thing is it runs like the day i bought it in Park. But once in gear it begins to cough and then eventually shudders and dies. I haven't changed plugs ever. I know... At about 75 miles it began to idle rough at times and in reverse. But once I revved up it went away.
I replaced both cam sensors but no luck. Today i put it on a tow truck to get a second opinion from a local engine shop. I actually backed it down my driveway, and pulled up to the tow truck with no issues. weird...
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