Ford - Focus :: 2000 - Intermittent Flopping Noise / Not Consistent With The Rotation Of Wheels
Aug 19, 2011
I have a 2000 Ford Focus automatic dohc 157K. About two years ago, it started making a noise that has gotten progressively worse. It is very hard to describe. It sounds like an intermittent flopping noise that you would expect from a bad tire. What makes is strange, is that the sound is not consistent with the rotation of the wheels. It does however increase and decrease with speed, but again it's inconsistent with the wheel rotation. It does not roar, or whine like a bearing, and there is not popping noise you usually get with a bad CV joint.
It seems to subside when I turn to the right and become a little more pronounced when I turn to the left. I have new tires, a new axle and wheel bearing on the right (passenger) side of the car. The repair shop checked all of the bushings and bearings, and cannot hear the noise when it is on a lift. I also just changed the sway bar links and all the engine mounts. You can feel the floorboard bumping along with the sound, but it does not telegraph through the steering wheel. There is no shimmy or vibration.
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I'm looking at a dirt cheap Explorer 4.0, has been sitting for 2 years. Runs nice, with a double "knock" noise but quieter than a rod knock. Idles smooth at 600 rpm, "knock" is consistent, but increases as engine increases speed. Has 2 year old oil, and 2 year old gas. Would a tune up support it, and revitalize it, or is the engine almost dead. Still drives, didn't push it to hard. Interior is 9/10, exterior is 10/10. I have him down to 600. 4x4 works, and feels good.
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A few months ago I bought a used 2006 F350 superduty with manual/ auto 4x4. For the last few months I have had an intermittent moaning noise coming from the wheels. It happens when going at slow speeds (under 30mph) I have checked all calipers and made sure none were frozen. Brake pads have at least 75% life in them. I put the truck in neutral to spin all tires by hand and try to replicate the sound.
The front seem to spin easy. The drivers rear will spin but is hard to move and the passenger side I can barely move (I'm assuming it's because it's the drive tire? I believe it has something to do with the rotation of the tire because when driving it moans in intervals. Like it's at a certain point in the rotation something is rubbing. How to troubleshoot further? When going through parking lots it is quite noisy and I can feel the running in my brake pedal.
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As I'm driving my ford focus I hear a growling noise from the right front. It goes away while turning left.I jacked it up and feel no play in the wheel. I'm thinking it is either the wheel bearing or the drive axle. How could I tell which one?
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My rear tires (Nokian) on my Subaru Legacy 1999 all wheel drive car are noisy and chopped after only 18,000 miles (tires were in front for 4,000 miles; at that point I had to get two new tires which were put in front). My mechanic does not recommend rotation so they haven't been rotated. No, I don't know why. So now they are chopped but have lots of tread.
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'07 Elantra GLS, around 150000 km, predominantly urban usage (city / highway).
I hear a creaking noise when I turn the steering wheel to the left or right. The creaking is consistent the entire time the wheels are pivoting. Sometimes I hear the same creak when the body pitches during acceleration or deceleration. It seems to be more prevalent once the car is warmed up (after driving a few km) vs. when it's cold. There's also a bit of a dead zone in the steering control, you need to turn the wheel slightly (to the first creak) before the wheels react.
The sway bars were replaced around 6 months ago, as they had some play in them which could be heard when passing over a bump. The driver's side CV is also less than a year old. The external steering components (ball joints / sway bars / outer CV arms) appear to be in good repair with no play that can be attributed to the creaking.
My mechanic (independent - I tend not to go to my local dealer whenever possible) thinks that there is some play in the linkage between the steering column and the rack-and-pinion - the exposed universal joint behind the brake pedal does have a little bit of a wiggle to it. The noise appears to be coming from there, you can hear the creaking in the cabin as you turn, but outside, you can't really hear the creaking. He's also of the opinion that this is a very unusual symptom given the age of the car.
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I have a 2000 Ford Focus with about 145,000 miles on it. When I'm driving I can hear a drumming noise. The faster I go the louder and more fast paced the drumming noise becomes. When I hit about 50 I can hear it, and the faster I go the louder it is. At about 60 the car starts to shake a little bit. When I'm going like 20 or 30 or so, it sounds like I can almost hear my tires turning if that makes sense. The noise is really loud and is starting to concern me. A friend said my CV boots are ripped, but before I take it into a mechanic I would like some non biased opinions.
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My car makes a grinding/popping noise when driving that worsens when I go over bumps and that completely stops if I even touch the brakes. When I accelerate, the noise speeds up as well. I took it to a mechanic about three months ago and he said it was a loose bumper and that he secured it. After leaving, the noise got louder and happened more often. Sometimes the noise doesn't happen, while other times it does. My dad changed my front brake pads about a month ago so it can't be those. Is it possible that it is still my bumper making the noise? If so, I don't understand why it would stop when I brake.
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my 2000 focus se, 2.0L SPI, with 82k began to recently run rough at idle then progressed to stalling at longer lengths of idle. The condition starts once the engine warms after 2-5 minutes. I 1st tried gas treatment. I replaced the ignition coil as suggested in the other threads, but it has not improved the problem. I had the fuel pump recall-replaced 2 years ago. I would guess that a bad fuel pump would exhibit loss of power at all engine speeds? Before I proceed to replace plug wires and plugs.
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My 2004 Ford Focus Hatchback has 152,000 miles on it. At the end of last year the engine started dying/stalling as soon as I started it - I would have to keep my foot on the gas to keep the engine going. I took it to the dealer and they put in a WHOLE NEW THROTTLE BODY. They also told me I needed a new battery and updated the car's software. Total $700. About a week to 10 days later, the car started doing the dying out after starting thing again - intermittently - didn't matter if the engine was hot or cold, fuel high or low, weather rainy, cold or clear and warm.
This morning I worked for 20 minutes to keep the engine going, made sure the engine was warm, and it STILL stalled out. I called in for a tow, called the dealer and said I'd be coming in, went back out to the car ... and it started right up without stalling. Drove it to the dealer and they've now told me they can't find anything at all wrong with the car. They are keeping it overnight to see if they can duplicate the stalling tomorrow morning. Any thoughts? The new throttle body cost me about $500 in December. (Don't know if it matters, but the defroster fan was super loud this morning, but once the engine was able to idle, the loudness disappeared ...). It's been a great car, but maybe it's time to start looking.
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I noticed a pulsating feeling when I applied the brakes in my 2001 Ford Focus. I figure that it might be warped rotors, but after driving the car for a while, it seems to have dissipated. The car was sitting around for a few weeks. I read that it could just be rust buildup, but I feel that would require more than a few weeks of sitting around. Is there any way to check for myself, short of taking off the rotor?
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Just hoping that there is something common that causes this problem. This thing can idle just as smooth as you could want one to and the next time it will have a dead miss, and the miss is not consistent. It may miss like three hits then be ok a little then miss a little. There is no CE light or codes. Again just hoping there is something common.
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I drained the transmission fluid on my 2000 f250. I measured the fluid at about 6 quarts. I refilled with 6 quarts. I drove until the engine was hot and checked the fluid while running in park. Each time I check it I get a different reading on the dipstick. I wipe off the dipstick each time but sometimes I pull it out and it reads low. The next try it shows about 1/2 inch over full on the dipstick. Can't get two consistent readings. Is it harmful if it is a little over or under full?
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I got a 08 F150 with a V6. It's making a very loud and annoying noise that sounds a lot like a bad steering pump, but it's coming from the water pump. I'll be cruising at about 2000 rpm and the noise will start all of a sudden. I step on the clutch and let the rpm drop to idle, and the noise tapers off as the rpm drops and then stops completely. I bring the rpm back up, and there's no noise. There is absolutely no play in the water pump bearing, no leakage from the weep hole, no overheating.
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I've a 2000 Chevy Monte Carlo, 3.4 L engine, 110K miles. The cooling fan is making a intermittent loud noise for some reason or another. Can the motors be purchased separately or will I have to buy the entire cooling fan assembly? Also, could this be a bearing problem? The fan doesn't appear to be rubbing against anything. The fan is running after the engine is turn off although the engine wasn't real hot.................driven under 15 miles and fan came on and stayed on after turning off engine but finally stopped running.
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I drive a fixer-upper 2000 Miata SE. When I turn in reverse, like to get out of a parking spot, I get this awful, intermittent scraping noise. Imagine a sci-fi movie where some ancient rusted megabot stands up for the first time in 1,000 years - that's basically the noise. I'm thinking the most likely culprits are the LSD and the steering column. But it only happens in reverse, which doesn't fit with the steering column theory (I think), and it sounds like it's coming from the front, which doesn't fit with the LSD.
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I have that wonderful ticking noise... Here is some info on my truck: Its 133k, 5.3L 3V. I put new plugs in it and changed the oil (YES the right filter and oil).
Okay, so I'm trying to make sure my diagnosis is what I think it is before I start digging into the motor and get angry because I ordered the wrong parts.
Preface: I got the truck from a deal auction. I was told it ran great, well when I got it, it had this tick. It comes and goes as it pleases (not dependent on the weather or RPMS. The noise is consistent, it gets faster as RPMs rise, it doesn't go away after 1,200 rpms. This lead me to eliminate cam phasers as the issue.
Now here is something odd: After starting up the truck, initially it will be pretty quick and have great throttle response, but after that it will start act like someone put on the parking brake. It can barely accelerate and when you put it to the floor it gets worse. It seems to accelerate best at half throttle. The second part is the truck will shift, dropping the rpms incredibly low and the tick gets louder and more spaced out (leading me to think it's rpm dependent).
All of the noise seems to be localized around the passenger size head area. If I unplug the VCT solenoid the ticking doesn't seem to be as loud if I drive it the next day, and it doesn't do the shift into lower rpms and accelerates wonderfully. Leading me to think it's either the timing is off and when the phasers kick on it goes way out of time and causes it to go into limp mode...or the VCT solenoid is bad?
The ticking never fully goes away, but it has it's quiet days and LOUD days...
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I have a 2000 Ford Focus that vibrates more at idle. The previous owner replaced the top passenger side motor mount when I bought it in Nov. I just replaced the bottom and then the other top drivers side mount two days later. 75% improvement but I wonder if there is some thing in the engine like an adjustment of some kind. I have only had it a couple months so I don't know when the last time it had a tune up. I can replace the spark plugs my self but would need a computer diagnosis to determine if there is something else that needs some adjustment of replacement.
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2000 Expedition AWD, 4.6l ... 150K on car, 50K on trans, 150k on transfer case and most else.
The problem is, under load, there is a intermittent bearing vibration noise...it sounds like a roller bearing that has too much tolerance so it vibrates in and out under acceleration. You can feel it in the gas pedal and chassis, you can hear it, and it robs a little power when the sound it pronounced. The sound is 10x worst when towing my 6000lb boat. Gear doesn't seem to matter, but it is hard to make it happen in 3rd gear.
Diagnostics so far:
-Can't reproduce sound on rack or out of gear
-Stethoscoped all accessories - good
-added Lucas oil additive to engine oil - no change
-added Duralube high mileage goop to trans - no change/slight change?
-Aamco said it was transfer case, tear down and inspection revealed nothing, they said it was mostly pristine for a car with 150K on it.
-Inspected U-joints - all tight
The duralube in the transmission may have made a slight difference in the frequency of the sound...but it could be my imagination, it wasn't significant enough a change to be determinate.
I think I could isolate the issue with a diagnostic tool that doesn't exist as far as I know...it would be a handheld device with 4 magnetic mic sensors you could stick in various locations and watch the waveform output on the handheld... you would simply move the mic's around until you got the highest amplitude on the readout.
At this point the only thing I can think of:
-Aamco missed something
-Main bearings, cam bearings, or possibly oil pump
-Transmission bearing (Aamco says "NOT")
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A loud humming (sounds like a compressor). I can place the car in neutral, the engine revs up, and humming will stop. I have to repeat this action for the first 30-45 minutes from start of drive time.
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I have a 2000 Ford Focus Wagon with 114,00o miles on it. I'm having a problem determining why it is stalling in reverse and also sometimes while it is idling. I've had the idle speed motor replaced, hoses checked, etc. After we had these things done the car seemed a little better but I could still feel the car hinting at wanting to stall.
I also noticed it usually stalls in reverse when I'm turning the steering wheel but not if I'm backing up in a straight line. It also feels like it wants to stall when it sits at a long traffic light. Before I had the idle speed motor replaced it stalled more often - several times a week. However, now it stalls a little less.
On another note, the car seems to idle a little rough. It almost sounds like a diesel engine. It seems to simmer down some once the engine is warm. I had a new water pump installed and a timing belt put in and now I can hear a squeaking sound coming from that area of the engine. I'm not sure if any of these symptoms are related.
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