Why my 03 focus zx5 will stall in reverse. I have had the tranny serviced. I can drive it and then let it sit for about an hour and then try to reverse in it and it dies. I have change the mac, tps, iac sensors. I am at a loss for why this is happening. I also changed the pvc hose that runs from the back of the motor to the pvc valve.
View 14 Repliesmy 2000 focus se, 2.0L SPI, with 82k began to recently run rough at idle then progressed to stalling at longer lengths of idle. The condition starts once the engine warms after 2-5 minutes. I 1st tried gas treatment. I replaced the ignition coil as suggested in the other threads, but it has not improved the problem. I had the fuel pump recall-replaced 2 years ago. I would guess that a bad fuel pump would exhibit loss of power at all engine speeds? Before I proceed to replace plug wires and plugs.
View 14 Replies2002 f150 7700 with 5.4 triton and 4r100 tranny started chugging under acceleration and now stalls when put in D, 2 or 1. park and neutral are fine and reverse works perfectly.
Now when I put it in drive it chugs and stalls immediately... 1/10 times it will keep running but chug violently like its running out of gas. will get worse and stall if you press the gas. i can light the tires up for a block in reverse however.
Changed coils 1 2 and 3, IAC, bank 1 knock sensor, camshaft position sensor
This just started happening last week. When I put the truck into reverse, the engine lugs down and dies. It' as if the AT is fully engaging reverse gear with no clutching action. If give the truck a bit of pedal, I can put her in reverse and back up without issue. Going forward into Drive has no issues.
View 8 RepliesI recently got a 2wd 1994 150 straight 6 4.9L, It's been a great truck so far. It drove from New Mexico to California with no issues. Just this morning it started stalling and dying when pulling up to stop lights and putting it in reverse. The truck has 172,000 miles and has a new serp belt, alternator, radiator, and starter. It seems to run just fine on the highway and once it's warmed up it doesn't stall as easily. There is an exaust leak.
View 1 RepliesMy car stalls when I come to a stop but only in warmer weather (50 degrees or higher) and only after I have driven the car for 20 minutes or so then come to a stop. There is no check engine light on, no high temperature warning. I can start it back up (not a battery problem) easily, but as soon as I take my foot off the gas to put it in drive, it stalls. However, when I've let the engine cool, it's drivable again (until I come to a stop again).
I have taken it in to the repair shop after it has done this twice. Their computer check shows everything working fine and there ar no errors. Of course, by that time, then engine has cooled and they can't reproduce the stalling. I am dreading the upcoming warm weather because it's just a matter of time before I am stranded again. I don't know what to do if I can't get a diagnosis and repair!
03 Camry. 117,000 miles. 4cyl. Jerks and gives stalling feeling when in reverse, idle at stop lights and during initial acceleration. Feels like it is going to shut off. No major noises. No check engine light on. Car was fine when I bought it 2 months ago, just started this 3 days ago.
View 3 RepliesOur '03 Dodge Grand Caravan has been stalling sometimes in reverse and in first gear when starting to move. This usually only occurs if we hadn't yet driven it that day, or if it has completely cooled.
Put it in reverse and give it a little gas to get out of the spot, turn the wheel, and it stalls.. Park - Restart - Drive, and any attempt to press the gas normally probably results in stalling again. This presents a problem as I get to a stop sign and it stalls while in the middle of an intersection...so there is danger to this problem.
The only way I have found to somewhat thwart the problem is to ever so lightly feather the gas, and I mean I don't even push it, I tap-tap-tap it. This usually results in not stalling, but a slight lunge in acceleration.
There is a check engine light on and the code is for the emissions Evap. solenoid. Does this have anything to do with it? If not, what the heck is going on?!
My 2004 Ford Focus Hatchback has 152,000 miles on it. At the end of last year the engine started dying/stalling as soon as I started it - I would have to keep my foot on the gas to keep the engine going. I took it to the dealer and they put in a WHOLE NEW THROTTLE BODY. They also told me I needed a new battery and updated the car's software. Total $700. About a week to 10 days later, the car started doing the dying out after starting thing again - intermittently - didn't matter if the engine was hot or cold, fuel high or low, weather rainy, cold or clear and warm.
This morning I worked for 20 minutes to keep the engine going, made sure the engine was warm, and it STILL stalled out. I called in for a tow, called the dealer and said I'd be coming in, went back out to the car ... and it started right up without stalling. Drove it to the dealer and they've now told me they can't find anything at all wrong with the car. They are keeping it overnight to see if they can duplicate the stalling tomorrow morning. Any thoughts? The new throttle body cost me about $500 in December. (Don't know if it matters, but the defroster fan was super loud this morning, but once the engine was able to idle, the loudness disappeared ...). It's been a great car, but maybe it's time to start looking.
I have a 2008 Ford Focus - 4 Door Sedan SE 60300 miles.
I've gone to 3 mechanics now and no one can seem to figure out whats wrong with my car. Here's whats happening:
About 1 1/2 years ago I took my car to get an oil change at Jiffy Lube (Yeah never again). When I left, my car was idling funny... Silly me didn't take it right back and have them tell me what was wrong.. so I let it go, well about a month later it started idling even weirder. Basically it feels like my car is shaking when it gets under 1000 RPM and I notice my RPM dial start falling and bouncing back, acting like its going to stall, but never does. I notice a loss of power when this is happening (on speed up and just accelerating in general). All of this is random, I can't seem to put a pattern to it as to when it happens. One day I'll start it up and everything is perfect... Then I'll shut it off and restart it later, and it starts vibrating and puttering again... No signals as to if its hot/cold or wet/dry, no environmental variables seem to cause it to happen anymore than others. And there is no check engine light on, everything "looks" normal.
What I've had done to it so far is:
Air filter changed / reseated
3 oil changes (keep getting told it will work)
Throttle cleaned
Computer reset for idle sensor data rebuilding
Now I'm told that I need new engine mounts, and that could be the reason for the vibration. I'm thinking that the vibration caused the mounts to wear out, more so than the mounts being the cause. Mainly because I don't see how bad mounts could cause loss in power/bad idling.
What could be wrong?!? Really bugging me and don't want to keep throwing money at it for phantom solutions. Seems like mechanics I go to can't figure it out unless there is a check engine light on with some diagnosis code to tell them exactly whats wrong.
I have a 2001 Ford Focus ZX3 (2D Hatchback) that has been randomly stalling since we bought it. There is no engine light, the dealership couldn't get it to stall and just gave it back. Another garage got it to stall and thought it might be the "idle-oxygen sensor" (not sure if I'm remembering the name correctly), but that didn't stop it from stalling either.
My wife is ready to dump it, but even spending a couple thousand a year on repairs is less than the grand total of a year's payments on a new car, insurance, etc. But it would be nice to fix it.
My daughter's automatic DOHC SE Focus had suddenly been stalling, becoming harder to start and not maintaining a steady idle. I took it to our semi-trusted repair shop and was told it needed an EGR valve, plugs, coil, and ignition wires. $580! These all seemed like repairs I could do and so I have worked through all of these. I replaced the EGR valve and that seemed to make the problem actually worse. (so I put the old one back in) I put in new plugs and that improved the idle a small amount. Then I put in the new coil and that seemed to steady the idle a bit more. But here is what I have discovered through my many test drives after making these incremental repairs: The car starts now from cold very well and runs great for the first 20 minutes or so but...when it gets hot after 15 minutes or so of 50 mph driving, the idle drops and the engine wants to cut off. At low revs it seems to stumble and lose power. I think this is what my daughter was experiencing originally and none of my early test drives were long enough to surface the original problem. I have read that the Idle Control Valve might be a culprit in this sort of behavior.
View 5 RepliesI purchased a 2001 Ford Focus 7/17 from a Ford dealer. While my daughter was driving, at a left turn, the engine light came on, the car stalled, and the steering wheel and gas pedal locked up. A friend did a computer scan and said the code came back that 2 sensors, the crank shaft and cam shaft sensors, needed replaced. So we had them replaced.
About 4 days later, while driving home from school, on a right turn, the car broke down again on my daughter. She said the symptoms were the same, engine light came on, car stalled, the steering wheel and gas pedal locked up. So we had it towed to a local Ford service department. They said the ignition coils needed replaced and the valve cover gasket would eventually need replaced (per the mechanic, this wasn't directly related to the issue but a small leakage was found). So we let the Ford mechanic replace the coils and the valve gasket cover. They ran several tests and put 20 additional miles on the car without failures or issues, scans came up clean.
So while driving to school this morning, on a u-turn, my daughter experienced the issue again....car stalled, engine light came on, steering wheel and gas pedal locked up. After sitting a few minutes, the car started up so she drove it home and hitched a ride from dad to get to school.
I have a 08 Focus that will not go in reverse. I have power and speed in the rest of the gears. It will shift into reverse, just acts like neutral. Speedometer works and check engine light is not on. This is my girlfriend car she called me this morning saying she has no reverse. I drove it fine last night. I plan on looking at it and checking the cables and replace the filter. The car has 80k'ish miles on it.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 Ford Focus Wagon with 114,00o miles on it. I'm having a problem determining why it is stalling in reverse and also sometimes while it is idling. I've had the idle speed motor replaced, hoses checked, etc. After we had these things done the car seemed a little better but I could still feel the car hinting at wanting to stall.
I also noticed it usually stalls in reverse when I'm turning the steering wheel but not if I'm backing up in a straight line. It also feels like it wants to stall when it sits at a long traffic light. Before I had the idle speed motor replaced it stalled more often - several times a week. However, now it stalls a little less.
On another note, the car seems to idle a little rough. It almost sounds like a diesel engine. It seems to simmer down some once the engine is warm. I had a new water pump installed and a timing belt put in and now I can hear a squeaking sound coming from that area of the engine. I'm not sure if any of these symptoms are related.
I have a 2005 Ford Focus Man Trans, and am having issues getting it into first gear and into reverse. This happens most often when the car is cold. I am kind of wondering what it may mean before I take it in to have the issue fixed. It has 65 thou miles on it and I would think that I don't need a new trans already?
View 8 RepliesMy EX died on me twice today when I put it in reverse. Once at the doctors office and once in my driveway when I got home. Is there any sort of interlock that would cause it to die when I put it in reverse. I replaced the idle control servo not long ago so I am hopeing it is not that although with the crap parts coming from China it is not impossible.
View 14 RepliesMy 95 f150 stalls in reverse. It goes fine forward and idles fine in reverse but if I give it quite a bit of gas it starts stalling. We've put a new mlps and that didn't fix it. Then they thought it was the convertor so I got the trans rebuilt and still no change. I'm about to pull my hair out over this deal. I don't even have enough power to back up a trailer or back up a hill.
View 11 RepliesI bought my son a 07 F250. 5.4L and he tells me it is dying on him, it started out with it trying to die when going into reverse, now he can't keep it running much at all. He took it to the Firestone shop and they are telling him one of the camshafts is probably bad... I highly doubt it. And a new 3k motor is what he needs...
The truck has 145k on it and has been well maintained and just had the oil and fluids changed. Air filter is good, battery is new as well. Only thing I can think of is to clean the throttle body and air meter, he lives 200 miles away so it is hard to troubleshoot over the phone. Any pointers to look at? possible vacuum leak somewhere?
So my 2.0 Golf GLS Automatic has been having a few small issues lately.. Started out with engine stalling out when put into into Reverse. I was told to swap out the TB so I did. Didn't fix issue, next I was told alternator, installed a new one & it didn't fix the issue... . I finally decided today to throttle up the RPM's when I put it in reverse & guess what it worked!!! No more vibrations no more stalling (For now anyway). But on the even brighter side it finally gave me codes!!! P0725, P1780, P0740, P1850, & P1544. I know it seems bad but I finally have something to work with!! Only bad thing that really concerns me is that now I feel like I may need a new tranny....
View 4 RepliesI have a 2003 ford focus wagon, automatic transmission, 140,000 miles. The battery light has been going on and off for 5 months, and the car has shut down several times. I've had the following replaced/repaired:
Spark plugs replaced. Two days later, car died.
Battery replaced. Two days later car died.
Alternator replaced. 4 days later car died on a vacation trip. Before it died, the battery light came on when I had to accelerate, and also when going down hills. Frequency increased and power shut off several times. If I waited 10-15 minutes, it would start up again. Finally would not start up - completely dead. Computer diagnostics first said the alternator was bad. Then, while still hooked up to computer, the bad alternator indicator disappeared and the alternator reported no problems. Technician ran the car for a few hours every day for a week and took it for test drives but light never came on.
When I got back from vacation, the new alternator was replaced with a ford alternator - the theory was that some 2003 ford focus computer chips have trouble recognizing alternators that aren't ford's.
All was good for about 4 months. Then battery light started going on and off again - sometimes 20-30 times in 40 minutes, sometimes only 5-6 times in that time span. Computer diagnostics found nothing - light never came on.
Car was vibrating. Had engine mounts replaced 4 days ago, hoping the electrical problem was caused by something vibrating against something else that connected to the alternator, and if the vibrations stopped, the battery light would stay off. First 35 miles - no battery light! Then it started coming on again, but not as much as before the engine mounts were replaced.
Battery light seems to only come on now:
1) Every time I start up and begin driving and I think the car shifts to higher gears;
2) whenever I go up hills - it has also come on a couple of times when going down a hill (just like before, when the alternator was replaced);
3) when I accelerate beyond 55 mpg.
I can get the light to go off if
1) I floor the gas pedal;
2) I pump the brakes;
3) I put the car in park.
Mechanics are stumped. I love my car, but every time I drive it now, I worry the entire time about the battery light and about the power shutting off.