Ford Fuel System :: 1984 - Gauge Does Not Work On Either Front Or Rear
Oct 13, 2013
I have a 1984 jayco mini 25 with a 7.5(460)in it. It has been in storage for the past 3 years and has not been started. It turns over and I do get spark. The problem is fuel. I am getting power when I jump the oil pressure switch and ground at the wires on the frame rail that go back to the tanks. My gauge does not work on either my front or rear so at first I thought it just may be as simple as a bad ground since the ground is used for fuel level as well as the pump but I wasnt that lucky.The tank switch is working, I can hear it. What are the odds of both fuel pumps being bad?
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I just picked up a 1984 ford ranger long box 2 wheel drive w/ 2.0 l and carburetor for our daughter whom is just 15. it has a whopping 19,000 actual on it! It was my wife's grandma's farm truck - ordered it new from dear born. Any way, fuel gauge is pegged at empty and they had a new float assy put in about 5 years ago, but it is dead now, it doesn't appear that this sender is avail any longer. What part might fit in there and or what do i have to do to maintain the original gauge in the cluster but have a working sender to talk to it? is there another unit that goes in the tank that i can modify the signal out to read right with the built in gauge? There can't be too many different ones out there is there?
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I have a 1984 Ford F-150 with an I6 engine and a motorcraft carburetor. The truck absolutely will not idle. So I got to looking at the carburetor, and found this red hose going from the carb to a metal pipe, the pipe was just dangling there not connected to anything, and the end it rusted off. I'm pretty sure I know where the other end is supposed to go to, I just don't know how to get there as obviously I am missing some parts and I can't find them so they must have been lost on the road somewhere.
Here's how it looks:
The end of the pipe:
Where it is supposed to end (I think)???
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I got this 1981 ford fairmont wagon for free. From this elderly lady it was her husband.he bought used in 1983 it had 73,000 on it Iook like it been kept in garage real clean looking the mileage now on it is 34,154. I am guessing she has over 200,000 on her.The problem I am having is the fuel gauge won't move.is there a fuse for it or do you think the sender is bad. I can not find a sender any where...
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2006 Chevy Silverado 2500HD Duramax.
When I park it with the front end elevated even just slightly higher than the rear the fuel system loses pressure and I have to pump it up using the manual pump under the hood. This usually happens after 15 - 20 minutes of park time. When it is parked flat it usually will last hours or more, and if I park it with the rear elevated over the front then it doesn't seem to have a time frame. in other words it does not lose pressure at all.
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I have a 1986 F150 6 cyl, dual tanks, no AC, manual fuel pump. Just recently, I have been having issues with the tanks. At first it seemed like the back tank was siphoning from the front tank. Now I have fuel coming out of my front tank filler neck. When I open the back tank gas cap, there is enough pressure to spray me with gasoline. I am not familiar with the fuel delivery system of my truck ...
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This is on my sig truck. I can hear the pump running, and a sound like fuel spraying around inside the tank, but not getting any up front to the carb. What is the most likely culprit for this? Can't get the bed off, or get the strap bolts loose, so I haven't been able to "eyeball" anything, yet.
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My gas gauge is not working on my 2000 F-150. We have already replaced the sending unit and still nothing.... The Fuel pump is working....
Second, When reading the computer what is Lean Bank 1?? Is it dirty fuel injection??
Thirdly, When I start the vehicle....WHY would I get a rattle in the brake fluid junction box????
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I just bought a 01 Intrigue that the dash lights don't work and the gas gauge stays at fuel when you start the car. It goes to empty when you shut it off.
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I have a 2005 ECHO. Heat does not work. Water pump appears to be fine. The fan works fine. AC works great but I just don't have any heat. When i turn the temperature dial all the way to hot- the fan still blows cold. How I can fix this?
Also, my fuel gauge is not accurate. I will fill the tank and it will still read empty and will slowly go to the right level. Could it be a bad gas cap? Its got 145km.
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I have a 1984 BMW 733i and can't figure out why the Low Beam lights do not work when the light switch is on. The Low Beams work when the High Beams are on. I've replaced the Low Beam lights and checked the fuses.
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I have the dual tank setup & this is my problem.
Last year I replaced both tanks - the front was leaking bad and rear was starting to leak. After replacing both tanks, the rear tank (which I was using before) was unusable - it would idle fine and when applying throttle would stall out. The front tank's gauge did not work.
This week I pulled both tanks. Had new gauge assembly put on front pump unit. Also had the rear pump replaced with a new (rebuilt?) one. Installed both tonight. Now the front tank is running fine with a gas gauge. I Filled up the rear and once I had about 16 gallons in, fuel started leaking from the front top of the tank it looks like (where in-tank pump is). This leak has continued as the truck was turned off too. I think it may have stopped now, but its dark and I am parked on a hill. As another problem, I still have the same "stalling" problem. The rear will idle fine, but start to stall out when a load has been applied.
So to summarize:
- What is causing it to want to & stall out?
- Why am I leaking gas?
It seems to stop dripping gas after (maybe) the pressure is lower from leaking the gas out. Also, when 1st starting it up on the front tank, it wants to stall out...probably from the gas that leaked out while it was shut off? The truck will run for about 1/20th of a mile on the rear tank when initially starting it up before showing signs of stalling.
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I have a '99 E-350 6.8L. Where is the check valve that maintains fuel pressure on the system?
I have been experiencing a starting issue when the engine is hot. Cold starts are usually fine. I've replaced the in-tank fuel pump (pump only, not the assembly) to no avail. I was out of town and didn't have access to a fuel pressure gauge when the problem started so I couldn't say what I had prior to replacing the pump. But now, with a new pump, when I check pressure, I get about 40 psi when I first cycle the key on, but it drops right back to zero as soon as the pump shuts off. If I cycle the key on a few times, sometimes I can get it to hold pressure at about 32 psi, and it starts fine. When I shut if off, it goes back to zero psi, sometimes gradually, like a bleed down, and sometimes immediately.
My conclusion from this was that the check valve was bad. I was told it was part of the in tank fuel pump assembly. Since I didn't replace the entire assembly, this made sense. So I just dropped the tank back down, but I don't see anything as part of the pump assembly that serves as a check valve. There is a rubber nipple on the end of the return line, but I don't see how that can hold any significant pressure.
So, before I go out and spend another couple hundred bucks on the complete fuel pump assembly, which apparently can't be purchased without the actual pump, I thought I'd ask. Where is the check valve that holds the pressure in the fuel system?
BTW, I also have replaced the fuel rail pressure regulator, but it made no difference (I went there first since that was much easier than dropping the fuel tank a second time).
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I have a 85 e-250 351 4 barrel with two tanks. My tank selector switch was bad, and I have no clue how long the gas has been in my front tank, but it is very bad. I have tried to siphon it out, but for some reason it wouldn't start flowing, and I tried to drain it from behind the fuel tank selector valve, but it wouldn't flow. I figure i need to pump it out, so my question is what is the best method to pump out 25 gallons of bad gas?
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95 crown vic, 4.6, auto. press the throttle an theres a hissing sound ,let off throttle sound goes away. Air tube to converter ?
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My passenger side front and rear windows dont work. Both driver side windows work, just not the right side/passenger side.
Also when I press the master door lock/unlock switch on the driver seat, every door except the rear passenger door works. It stays unchanged so I guess it is not receiving a signal or something is not letting the signal reach the lock.
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Ok heres the story 1994 ford f250 7.5 4x4 dual tanks I used both front and rear tanks regualrly than one day front tank stoped working fuel pump doesnt turn on when key is in the on postion now you can hear the rear turn on when switched to rear tank took off pigtail connector to front tank no power at all to tank took off swith in dash no power there either good relay and fuse funny thing is with swith turned to front fuel guage reads correctly switch to rear reads correctly Im stumped because oveiously Im getting power to the switch but checked wires at switch and cant get any power or at front tank but power to rear.
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A while ago, the front (mid) tank on my '97 F350 4x4 stopped functioning. I thought that because when I'd switch to the front tank, it died. I decided to put it off and use the rear tank cos it worked.
Today I accidentally bumped the fuel tank switch to front, and it was working! Truck didn't die then I noticed the fuel gauge pegged past full. Having tested older trucks by grounding out the gauge sending unit wire, it would peg past full. So I think I had an electrical issue that caused the front fuel pump to stop working in the first place, not that it went bad as I originally thought...
So, does that mean the front fuel pump had been working all this time, just not grounded? Does the front fuel pump ground itself on the tank or is there a grounding point? I currently can't find any way to see how it was grounded, as it's crusty and all.
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1987 f150 302 4spd 4x4. When I bought the truck 4 years and 12K miles ago the orig owner had just installed a new front pump (in tank) and new switch thing on the frame rail. He said shortly after that the rear pump stopped working so he just ran off of the front tank. That's what I've been doing also except as of the last few months it has started to leak from the rear tank (I don't ever put gas in it and was empty when I bought it) and dies periodically from time to time? Where the leak could be coming from. I do suspect the dying has to do with the leak though.
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I just noticed that my rear heat doesnt work. The A/C DOES work, however. Where to start troubleshooting?
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I have a '88 F250 with a couple of dual tank issues, first of all if I'm running on the rear tank the fuel returns in the front tank.... not an isssue if trhe front tank is empty, but if both tanks are full the front tank will overflow. If the front tank is empty I run on the back tank until I'm out of gas and switch to the front and I"ll have about a half a tank in the front tank.
Second issue, running the front tank the fuel gauge stays on full until I have about half a tank, then it works OK. If I'm running the back tank it stays on full, even after the tank runs out of gas??
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