Ford Fuel System :: 1987 - Loss Of Power / Black Smoke And Also Dying When Stop
Apr 9, 2015
So my 1987 Econoline Van was running fine until recently we noticed loss of power going up the slightest of hills and it will only hit 55 max with gas to the floor. Its shooting out black smoke and also dying when we stop. We are getting very poor fuel economy as well.
We got a tuneup, oil change, new air filter, etc. We also had a few electrical issues due to a short we thought we had fixed completely... So I'm wondering if it could be the timing? Cause it'll idle low, then high, then bog down and lose power...
Also was thinking maybe bad fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump....but how would I check this? And since we did experience a short, could we have blown a sensor too?
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My brother's 87 ford ranger 2.3L truck began to have problems. It would be running great, then start to misfire, run rough, sputter, shake and loose accelleration then die. Then it wouldn't start back up for a long time, sometimes til the next day. Little by little, the truck would drive a shorter and shorter distance between breakdowns. He first tried some minor work himself, (basic tune up) - replaced his rotor, cap, plugs, air filter, fuel filter, but that didn't fix it. He went to one garage (big mistake), who said the fuel pump pressure was fine but said he found a broken wire on the harness grounding out and it needed new ignition module and replaced it. (Cost was $350.00+), Garage promised to honor any additional work nec if it continued to have the same problem, and would be free of charge.
Five more breakdowns later and two more "better quality ignition modules", new battery terminals, and 1 new computer later, this joker did more unauthorized work and demanded another $200+ besides the fact of breaking his orig agreement "free of charge" if any further problems! Needless to say, second garage fixed the truck by replacing the magnetic pickup, part # DU 30-C (an electrical part that goes in the distributor and pulsates a current to operate the timing) (it does something like that) and the truck has been driven approximately 40-60 miles as of today, (3 days later), without breaking down. All the other times when picked up from incompetent garage, it wouldn't go more than 1 - 7 miles before breaking down and each time they didn't fix it.
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Truck has been running like a champ the entire time I had it. Took it in yesterday for an oil change. They also changed the fuel and air filters.
Drove off the lot and noticed some loss of power. This morning truck still feels sluggish but it is also blowing out black smoke pretty much every time I touch the gas pedal. I am even being super gentle with it. Starting from a stop, I hit 1500rpm and it's blowing thick black smoke as if I was flooring it. Same thing while rolling to get a bit more speed to pass.
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Today I was riding along and all of a sudden I noticed a loss of power. I look in the rear view mirror and get into the pedal and a lot of black smoke. When I get to where I'm going and stop I noticed the idol was a little loopy. I never saw a check engine light. I have the Edge insight. I had two codes. P1000 OBD System readiness test not complete. P2290 ICP TO LOW.
When I would reset the codes the P1000 came back instantly every time. I parked the truck for about an hour. When I started it back up everything was normal. The power was back and no smoke. This happened two more times throughout the day. I have heard people describe a sticking EGR Valve causing these symptoms. Is that where I should start looking or is the ICP the culprit or something else?
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Vehicle details : PASSAT 2.0 TDI 170 BHP DSG - 2007 ... 160KM
Problem:-
>>RPM doesn't climb as it should and esp in the run up to 3 gear and the DSG up shifts too quickly 4th and 5th
>>Loss of power. Pressing the gas pedal during all this leads to lots of black smoke and jerking but eventually the car picks up rpm and speed. Am I stuck in limp-home mode here?
>> No CEL light (yet)
The problem becomes very prominent when the engine warms up fully. Its drivable before that. Driving it in Sports mode is the only saving grace. Note that the car it is nothing like how it should be in sports mode, but feels better. I can hear the turbo whistle only when the engine is cold.
Initially, the Engine mounts were thought to be the culprit (for jerking and then ECU reducing power) and then later the EGR value unit (jerking/pinking and power loss).
Work done so far :
1. Original VW Timing Belk Kit (incl water pump) - September 2012
2. Engine Mounts changed - - September 2012
3. Has been plugged into VAG Diagnostic software and an intermittent error was detected for EGR.So, EGR valve control unit was changed - late December 2012
4. Engine Oil (5W-30, fully Synth) and filter changed three time in space of last 10K KMs after I bought the car in September 2012. This is something I wanted to get done anyway to flush the engine
5. Used injector cleaning additives couple of times -December 2012
6. ECU (error-code) reset procedure, just a couple of days ago. This actually seemed to remove some of the jerking and loss of power, but it appears to be coming back now.
7. Transmission reset - yesterday . Did this anyway although the DSG seems to be fine, no problems with the gear shifts
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I have a Santa fe 2002 crd 2.0 4x4 and recently had a lot of black smoke and a loss of power when driving, it starts fine but when revving it blows black smoke from exhaust and has no power to pull away, been told its possible turbo problem or fuel problem.
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Initially I used to get cutting out of the engine randomly whilst driving which everyone believes is linked to an ECU issue i believe...I added some reddex fuel cleaner and that seemed to clear the problem up for myself which is a diesel 2.2 ...
However I was beginning to have starting issues where i would need to pump the gas to get the car started...I changed the battery and the glow plugs and yet i was still having issues. I had the air intake and filter looked a diagnostic test run both showing no issues and then one day I was driving and suddenly i got a huge loss of power and black smoke out of the exhaust....Seriously i had no grunt and i was a hazard to cars behind me....!!!! It was weird how first thing in the morning it seemed fine but later in the day i was getting this problem over and over again and eventually the car wouldnt start without a jump from another vehicle..
Any how i took it to various garages but in the end i took it to Rockar Hyundai at Dartford (i cannot recommend enough) but simply all they did was look at the fuel filter and saw that one of the injectors were faulty...After changing this the problem still occurred but again only when the car was warm...They then looked at the pipes leading to the injector that was faulty and then found that there was a crack/split in it and obviously when cold it was sealed but when warm was opening and i believe letting in air.... Anyhow they have changed that and the car feels great and no issues...
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So I am not sure exactly what is going on with my truck. It is a 2004 F250 has a 6.0 L. Sometimes when I take off from a stop the truck has no power and blows some black smoke. Then the turbo kicks in and all is fine. It comes and goes when it pleases no matter the temperature. What started happening is when I drive it a steady pace on the highway sometimes the turbo gets quieter and louder and quieter and louder sometimes when it gets quieter I see a little bit of black coming out of the tailpipe. Sometimes it doesn't do it at all. Also sometimes when I let off the gas the truck sounds like it's trying to laugh at me like a wastegate is fluttering.
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I recently purchased a 87ford escort and I think it may have been sitting for a while but it runs Problem is it jumps rattles shakes while idling same thing when driving but not as bad. I'm hoping it is just in need of tune up but it continues to blow out black smoke from tail pipe,getting oil changed today. Do you think the smoke could mean the rings are bad? Also some times it takes awhile before the car shifts when I am driving till it gets warm.
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a little history here, about 2 years ago I got my first P401 so I changed the egr valve and it went away for a little while. Then I came back several months later and changed it again. along with the P401 I get heavy black smoke when taking off from a dead stop and after it gets a little speed it will run good. Here lately it seems I can only get 2 weeks to a month between cleaning the EGR valve.
Each time I clean it has a bb size piece of carbon stuck and is holding the valve open and there are several more under the EGR valve. each time I try to vacuum the carbon chunks out and clean everything as best I can. As of now I'm fed up with it and would like to do something to make it more reliable. would taking the intake off and cleaning completely and adding a EGR delete kit eliminate the carbon from building up?
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Why the frame mounted fuel pump might run after the key is turned off? Then when you turn the key on it may or not run. If it does run it keeps running. shouldn't this shut off after pressurizing the line? is their a pressure switch in the pump that's failing? This has the 3 pump system...
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I have an 87 F150 4x4 4.9L EFI with a single tank. Fuel pumps keep running even when the key is off. I tried swapping relays but the problem still exists. The engine will start and run OK for about 15 secs. then die. I installed a new low pressure pump, high pressure pump seems to be OK. I also installed new fuel filters. I dont want to just throw parts at this truck, where do I go from here?
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I have a serious issue with my 2004 F250 6.0. Pulling a trailer something under the hood sounded like an explosion and lost power and boost. The truck started blowing black smoke from the tail pipe. I could see no psychical damage to anything under the hood. There was absolutely no power but managed to cripple home. What happen.
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2001 Excursion 7.3 started missing the other night. Great loss of power, but made it home. Rough idle, "clacky". Next morning, did the following in order: 1) Pulled the fuel filter inspected, 2) removed all fuel from the bowl 3) replaced bowl fuel with Seafoam 4) installed new filter (my typical procedure). Without starting, I then 5) removed HPOP oil from reservoir and 6) filled with fresh oil using exact amount removed as a gauge for what to replace.
Started, idle smooth for a time. Increased rpm by depressing accelerator. Began running rougher and rougher accompanied by white smoke. Finally quit and would not restart. Cranking easily, tachometer showing RPM during crank. Suspected no fuel getting to fuel bowl. 7) Drained fuel bowl using valve on back of bowl. 8) Turned ignition to "on" to get fuel pump to run 9) removed new filter, no fuel in bowl 10) With fuel filter out of the bowl, removed fuel filter and quickly cycled the ignition to "on" and back off -- no fuel entered the bowl. 11) Removed leads from fuel pump. 12) Checked voltage across leads as ignition cycled to "on": 6.5 volts. 13) Checked fuel pump fuse (20A Maxi fuse in location 112 -- BLOWN!) 14) Replaced fuse, performed voltage test: 11.55 volts 15) Checked battery voltage: 12.44Volts.
So, with all that, how in the world does the fuel pump get 6.5 volts with the fuse blown? I looked closely at the fuse and there was no slag or connection in the element. Today I have pulled the 9-pin and 42-pin connections on the valve covers as well as the connectors to the glow plug relay module (used on Ex's) to inspect wires and connections. All looked fine. I plan to us some LP5 electro contact cleaner to clean all the connections and put some electrical grease on the connections, but the big question is where did that 6.5V come from with the fuse blown. I plan to pull the fuse and do the same test to see if the 6.5V is still there.
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Finding the fix for the rich fuel puffing black smoke fuel reg ok, map ok, temp sensor ok, air sensor ok...
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I have an 87 f150 inline 6 efi. The truck will not rev over 2000 rpm even when idling. It has a new fuel filter. What this could be?
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My little '87 2.9 Ranger has little metal clips that hold the electrical connector onto the injector......how do I remove and reinstall the electric connector?
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2004 f150 fx4 w/ 5.4 .I have a code that read " system adaptive fuel to lean bank 1 " and the same for bank two. So, I got on here and did some research. Cleaned the throttle body, maf sensor, air filter, looked for vacuum leaks, changed the fuel filter and it still is running very poor at idle and it seems to be getting progressively worse...
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I just purchased an 87 f250 w/ a carb'd 460. I purchased it with the mech fuel pump swapped out to an electric. The previous owner states that they gave him the wrong electric pump and I should exchange it for a different one. The reason for him putting it on was to get it running for me to hear it run.
My question: Is this even recommended? I wouldn't mind staying with an electric pump up front. If it is recommended, what would be a suitable pump to replace it with, as in flow/feeding characteristics?
Also, it only feeds from the rear tank, which also has a bad fuel pump. I'd like to get both tanks functioning again. I'd rather not deal with the tank switching valve due to what I've read about them. Has anyone ever hooked up a manual valve and just switched tanks that way? I've searched this site extensively and couldn't find anything. I know I'm not the first to have thought about it.
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All stock 460 in a 1987 1-ton 4x4. The carb has lost it's cookies I think. It (all of the sudden) developed this massive flat spot right after I shift gears and open the throttle. It falls on its face, then catches and slams the whole damn truck.
Also pop-pop-pops really badly when I downshift and occasionally backfires when I shut it off. I'm (barely) smart enough to know that it's getting excess fuel dumped through the engine. I just pulled out both float adjusters, cleaned them, and reset float levels and it made no difference whatsoever.
It's my only vehicle and it's barely drivable.
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1987 f150 302 4spd 4x4. When I bought the truck 4 years and 12K miles ago the orig owner had just installed a new front pump (in tank) and new switch thing on the frame rail. He said shortly after that the rear pump stopped working so he just ran off of the front tank. That's what I've been doing also except as of the last few months it has started to leak from the rear tank (I don't ever put gas in it and was empty when I bought it) and dies periodically from time to time? Where the leak could be coming from. I do suspect the dying has to do with the leak though.
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