Ford - Fusion :: 2006 - Hard Starting In Cold Weather
Nov 1, 2014
My 2006 Ford Fusion SE V6 has trouble starting in cold weather. Once it starts, it's fine throughout the day, but once it sits a long time, like overnight, it has trouble starting in the morning. If it had a carburetor, I'd say the choke wasn't working. The dealership couldn't figure it out a few years back. I even tried a new battery and that didn't work. Is there a sensor that detects cold weather and increases fuel flow or chokes off air flow for richer starting mixture that could be failing?
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How to diagnose what I think is a failing alternator?
Here are the symptoms:
- Hard starting in cold weather
- Battery not at full voltage when truck is parked (usually around 11.5-12 volts. I have been putting a charger on it some nights)
- Lights seem to dim when I've got accessories running, like heater fan, heated seats etc. Lights get brighter with engine RPM, like when pulling away from an intersection.
What's my next step to diagnose this? I did a search, and didn't see anything. My battery is probably still under warranty, so if that's the issue, it should be a free fix. How hard is it to install an alternator in a 2005 with 5.4L engine?
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Our 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid has been great and trouble free. Recently, however, we've noticed a strong smell,like fiberglass, come from the A/C when starting from a cold engine.
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So I did a couple searches and found a couple MK3's with this issue however I did not find anything for the MK4.
The last couple days, we have been over 90 degrees in the afternoon. My black 03 20th 1.8t sits on the side of the road at work in the direct sun from 12:30 (lunch) until 5pm when I get off.
The last 2 days, when I have gone to start it, it cranks and cranks for 5-8 seconds before it starts to catch and finally stumbles to life. Once its running, everything feels fine. If I turn the car off and restart it, it starts fine.
In the mornings in the garage, evenings when its cooler or leaving for lunch before the day has gotten really hot, it starts fine. It only seems to be affected after sitting in the direct afternoon heat for a few hours.
I have read vapor lock, dying crank position sensor, ignition issues, starter etc. I am going to rule out the starter as the car cranks like normal. It simply does not fire.
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2001 Intrigue 3.3 L v6
Due to the cold weather, seems the battery could not start the car. I removed the battery to trickle charge it overnight in the house, and hooked it back up in the morning. It seemed to have sufficient charge to power the starter motor, but the engine would not turn over. I could hear a whirring sound whenever the key was turned, and the sound stopped whenever the key was turned off.
I am suspecting that the starter motor somehow is not engaging with the engine flywheel?
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My Chevy Cobalt will not start in cold weather. I don't think bad battery is the case here because it's started in warmer temperatures. What could be wrong??
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2004 Passat 1.8t that is intermittently not starting. The problem only happens when the car is cold. When I turn the key, the car cranks just fine but will not start. All of the dash lights light up and I had the battery tested and it is fine. Tonight it took about 5 minutes of repeated cranking and waiting before the car started.
After a 15-minute trip home and it had a chance to warm up, the car starts just fine. I've taken it to my mechanic but they haven't been able to replicate the problem. I'm thinking about leaving it overnight just so they'll be able to replicate it.
Not sure if it could be related, but I just had a coil replaced a few weeks ago (the coil was <1 year old). The plugs are only 3 months old.
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So I have a weird situation. My Sonata GS with the 2.4 engine has trouble starting ONLY during cold weather (-2 or colder) if it's been sitting for a few hours. If the weather is warm, then it starts fine most of the time. The car tries to 'fire' for about 45 seconds before it does; and 'fires' with no hesitation at that point. The car runs fine, no hesitation or rough idle. I've cleaned the intake system to make sure it's not clogged or dirty, replaced the air filter, cleaned the MAP and throttle body. My battery died a few weeks ago, so I've even replaced that. What this could be? Everything I've researched or looked into would throw a code, or have symptoms while driving...yet it runs fine once it's started, and no codes/lights are showing. Don't want to just start swapping parts hoping to find the problem...
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Lately, I've noticed that my car starts fine in cold weather. But, once I put the car into drive or reverse, it stalls. Also, once I start the car let my foot on gas for few min, and then put into drive or reverse, it drives fine.
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Vehicle: 1995 960 wagon
Background: Exhibits intermittent no-start behavior in both warm and cold weather, wet and dry weather, having sat overnight, or only sitting a few minutes. Turns over fine, but won't start. Sunday, it started fine several times, went to Home Depot, wouldn't start. Called a friend to pick me up. When he was almost there, I tried it again and it started back fine. Been in shop a few times, they played around with a few electrical connections, battery cables and grounds to injectors. Also replaced fuel pump. I have not verified if it is a fuel or spark problem, I just bought a FI fuel pressure gauge last night.
Once started, it does fine. It never stalls or cuts out. That is why I am leaning toward a CPS (that's what jeep people call it.) Sometimes, under the slow cranking speed (relative to idle) the signal is too weak to be useful. However, during idle and normal operation, the flywheel is moving fast enough that the signal is much stronger (being a magnetic pickup). Thus, the reason it only happens during starting, not during running.
Here's my current working theory: Bad crank position sensor (is that Volvo people call it?)
This is the only part I can think of that would cause this. A fuel pump problem would probably show up during running. I think the pump also receives a signal from the cam sensor, so if that sensor were the problem, it would happen during running too, not just starting. It the cam sensor an optical sensor? Shouldn't cause it to not start, although it might cause a difficult start.
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I've got a 2003 Xterra, RWD, manual transmission, with around 110k. It's been giving me a little trouble shifting into gears 1-3 when the weather's below 30F. It started doing this when I got the transmission fluid changed last, about 2 years ago. I took it back to the mechanic who fixed it immediately, and he changed the fluid a second time for free, but when the problem persisted, he said he had no idea. Needless to say, I haven't gone back to him. Since then, I've tried to ignore it (not too hard in sunny NC), but it's getting worse and I'm about to move to Chicago, so I think I should fix it before I move to the land of harsh winters. My first guess would be the tranny fluid weight might be a little low and I should try a heavier weight.
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My 2002 Honda Civic (160k+ miles, manual transmission) has twice failed to start this winter. This happened when the temperature is cold (<32 Deg. F). The car came with me from CA to the East coast (mid Atlantic) about 5 years ago. It occasionally has been difficult to start it in cold weather since moving East but otherwise it starts first attempt without issues.
This morning it barely started. This evening, it didn't start using the ignition. Turning the key, the engine attempted to turn over once perhaps twice. After several attempts the engine did not turn over at all - no detectable sound from the starter motor, instrument lights will flash and clicking noises come from the dash. Attempting to jump the battery with another vehicle had no effect - the engine would not turn over at all, the instrument lights flash, clicking from the dash. The battery health indicator is green.
I did get the car started by coasting down a grade, putting the car in gear to turn the engine over, and then using the ignition (I must depress the clutch to use the ignition but getting the engine turning worked first attempt without issue).
After arriving home and shutting off the engine, the car will start on the first attempt without issue (even after letting it sit at 25 Deg. F for 3+ hours). This seems like a mechanical issue and the starter motor is an obvious place to start. I can double check the battery connections and do some basic electrical testing, how to verify the electrical grounding (I'm handy with a multi meter).
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We have a 2009 S60 2.5T that has trouble starting in temps around 25 degrees and below. It skips/hesitates when cranking.
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This is the second year I've owned my 2007 Prius, and it seems to be getting worse.
In the summer, the hatch will open with ease! The handle recognizes my hand there and unlocks the hatch and whammo bammo we're in business. In the winter, especially the really really cold weather like we're having now (down to about 10 over night) the hatch refuses to open.
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I've got a 1.8T 2004 automatic and the problem I'm having is the shifter is harder to move since the weather's been colder. It shifts very well and is responsive, it's just that I have to pull it harder to select P, R, N and D. D is especially hard (no pun intended you sick minds! ) to select, the shifter kind of stays in neutral but shifts after a bit. Is there anything I can do to fix this?
Side question: is the rear defrost supposed to turn off after a certain period of time? My 2002 golf does it but the jetta doesn't.
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We're currently RV camping in the Wyoming Wind River Range at 8500 ft and is getting to freezing at night. The past two mornings the truck has been very difficult to start and I got quite a bit of smoke. This morning it took two or three tries but I got it going.
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This has been going on for 3 or 4 months can someone tell me where the ETC sensor is located on 4 cylinder 2008 Elantra ?
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I'm having a issue with my Chevy Lumina Z34 (1991). When it's cold outside the car has a hard time starting up! I have to crank it multiple times while giving it gas. When it starts and is warm she runs great. I've been recommended to get a fuel injector flush. I also read synthetic oil could work also. It doesn't happen all the time.
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Cold start issues that my 2006 2.0T Passat is having. A few weeks ago, during a stretch of cold weather (10-20F), my Passat would sputter when I tried starting it up. It would either start and immediately shut off, would attempt to turn over, and generally on the 3rd attempt would turn over and run fine. I was only having this issue in the morning, and it would start fine when I would leave work (9 hour shifts).
I got my battery tested, and it proved to be failing. Replaced it. A few days later cylinder 4 started to misfire. I replaced all spark plugs and coil packs (85k on the car). During this service discovered that my oil had gotten some moisture in it and have off-white residue, flushed oil, replaced with new filter. A few days go by and I get code P2181 (cooling system performance). I cleared this out earlier today and it hasn't come back (50 miles later).
Are things just starting to go at the same time, or might there be another underlying issue? I have plans to flush the tranny and do the timing belt/coolant/water pump in the next month.
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It will turn over just fine but it won't start. If we wait almost exactly 10 minutes, it will start fine.
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My 2006 passat trunk is not closing in cold weather. Even if it stays the alarm beep will not come on indicating it is not closed. If I let it sit under the sun (or warm garage), it will lock.
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