Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1994 - Brake Lights Do Not Turn On At All
Mar 7, 2017
Having a problem with the brake lights. When the brake pedal is pressed, the running lights (including dash lights, parking lights, and the low power filament in tail light) turn on, but no brake lights. When the lights are turned on and brake pedal is pressed, the brake lights do not turn on at all. The 4 way flashers and signal lights work correctly with lights on and off. Things I have tried:
Replaced the tail light bulbs.
Checked fuses (#5, #10).
Disassembled the brake switch and bypassed it with a jumper wire.
Checked the grounds (tail lights, rear ground, drivers inner fender).
Tried to trace the wiring. Didn't see any noticeable damage, but the wiring is in a loom so it is hard to see.
Used contact cleaner on brake switch, rear wiring harness, body harness.
Still hoping it may be something simple that I've overlooked.
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Under mild-heavy braking, the rear brakes on my ranger lock up... EVERYTIME. Not just when its wet, or humid. Everytime I hit the brakes hard they lock. I think I'm getting little, to no pressure to the front brakes either. Could it be just a Proportioning valve?
Truck is a 94' 4.0l V6, RCLB, Auto, 4X4.
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The truck just won't turn over makes a rrrgh rrrgh noice like it wants to start, I push the gas peddle to the floor and I should smell a lot of gas but don't!!! I added oil when it died at the store last night and it started up but the oil stick indicates oil is fine??? Pulled the diode out this morning put it back in the truck would not start just made that noise but turned it off and reseated the diode and it started??? These things may or may not have anything to do with the problem. Could it be electrical or oil pressure gauge sticking or something else that I could tell my mechanic and he could fix so I don't get stuck????
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I noticed that my turn signals stopped working. I replaced the flasher. Now the turn signals work but the signal indicators in the dash don't light up. Also, the hazard lights don't work either. No flashing, no blinking when I turn on my hazards. I've seen many variations while searching? 1994 B3000 2x4 extra cab.....
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My brake lights will not work but all other lights do, bulbs and fuse have been replaced.
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First off my driver side brake light with stop working. I took it apart to try and find the short. In the process I shorted out all my running lights tail lights and brake lights and turn signals I think also. While I was looking for the short, turn signal wire from my tail light touched the frame and grounded out and that's when all the lights died . My tail lights are some cheap trailer lights without reverse lights. I pulled headlight switch from another Ford truck I have. On the harness connector that connects to the switch which wires should read what when I test with a voltmeter?I checked the fuses in the power distribution box under the hood and they were good. Truck has a flat bed so I don't know if that matters with the wiring, I suspect it's different then a normal bed truck. Wiring on the bed is old, maybe from 94. I am unexperienced with electrical.
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I have 87 Ford Ranger. 2.9L 4x4. Before any tips, I have checked the fuses, I have changed the Switch for the lights and the instrument cluster. Still no luck. I don't know if there is something wrong with the wiring. But what I was plan on doing is finding out on one of the Wiring Harnesses on the back of the Cluster which wire turns on the back lights on the cluster. Everything else on the cluster works (Gauges, Highbeam indicator, all the warning sign lights). What wires are what on the wiring harnesses. I was going to just run the wire to its own switch.
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I recently replaced all my incandescent lights on my 99 ford ranger which makes my truck stand out, but the issue I am having is all my exterior lights work including my turn lights but my running lights will not turn on. Is there any way I can fix this problem. I changed my flasher unit with one that is LED Capatable and i added load equalizers to the back to correct the issue with my turn signals but i just cant get my running lights to work....
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Just Bought 97 Ranger 2.3L 5 speed. Everything worked except interior cab light and cab brake light. Also the wipers and A/C blower only work on highest speed when I bought it. I assumed there was a problem with the switches, bulbs and/or fuses. But when I picked it up last evening I noticed the dash lights were very dim on the way home. Then when I got home I shut everything off and removed the key. I then opened the drivers door and touched the brake pedal and the dash lights and the parking lights came on along with the "key in ignition" bell alarm each time I touch the brake pedal. If I close the door the dash and parking lights come on but the key in ignition does not sound. With so many things malfunctioning I don't know where to start.
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One of my bulbs sometimes doesn't come on when I turn my lights on. I actually have to hit the dashboard to get it to come on. Does it randomly. Ironically, it's been doing this ever since I pulled the instrument cluster out to change a different bulb. I don't know if I did something when taking it out or putting it back in. Anyway, what I can check to see why it's doing this? It's just one bulb that illuminates the right portion of the tachometer.
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85 ford ranger 2.3 efi .. My brake lights still aren't coming on. According to the Haynes manual, the wire that runs from the stop light fuse goes from there to the hazard flasher and then to the brake light switch. Since I have checked everything else, is it possible that the hazards are causing a break in the connection?
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So I did alot of electrical work on this truck but never had any problems with the brake lights, now they dont work and the fuse blows every time you pop one in.
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1993 ford ranger xlt. Auto trans 4.0 L ... Brake and ABS lights are on. Fluid level is good and connector on the master is tight. Just randomly came on. No difference in brakes. I jumped it and it flashed a code 4. "Open/grounded valve reset circuit". Cant seem to find much on it.
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When it rains my "door ajar" light comes on and the overhead lights won't turn off. that's the common problem. i've read many threads where it says to spray liberally with WD40. i intend to do that but the plot thickens.
Usually, after a few dry days, the light goes off and everything returns to normal. Not so any more. the newest episode entails the light staying on for two weeks of good warm, dry weather. naturally i always take the bulbs out. Now, its somewhat sporadic but.... I'll try to explain since I'm still trying to wrap my mind around it.
1. light stays on, dome lights won't go off.
2. tried dome lights couple of times, still wouldn't go off
3. finally, inserted dome lights and they wouldn't come on (except when manually switched on) however the door ajar switch was still on.
4. EXCEPT when i opened the passenger door the domes came on but wouldn't go off so i took the bulbs out again.
5. that's where i am now.
Not positive but I'm thinking since the new wrinkle in established expectations that I'll probably end up replacing the driver's switch. Before I tear up the door panel i need some hints concerning removal. the door has power windows and locks (which i need new actuators but that's a different story). Is there anything I need to watch out for?
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My 94 ranger, 3.0 v6 began to sputter and jerk about a month ago. It does this when ever give more then lite throttle up until about 3000 rpm. I have replaced plugs, wires, coil and cleaned the air flow sensor. I feel like this has worked a little but the problem is still definitely present. When I hit 3k rpm if feels lie the truck begins to run correctly and almost like it had a power ban much like a dirtbike, but again it's just the truck running correct.. And above 3k rpm it runs great... and every so often the problem will completely disappear for 5 minutes or so, then come right back.
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I have a 94 2wd 4.0 auto 3.08 rear end it has 195,000 im gettin 15 city 18 hwy I used to pull 24+ hwy I changed plugs and wires no change? It has the 4.0 tick but its always had it....
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Working on a friends 94 ranger, 2.3 L with codes 218 and 998. Chiltons manual does not even show this code. Code is for Loss of Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM)/left side. What exactly is this? Can't find anything that explains the IDM.
998 means a hard fault.
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1994 ranger 3.0 .. New: water pump, htr. hoses, radiator, thermostat, pulled & flushed htr. core. (2 year time frame) ....
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I have a 1994 Ford Ranger 4.0L 4x4, 130,000. I love this truck but about a year ago it started not starting after it warmed up short distances in the summertime? It start right up on cold crank...Runs smooth idles like a champ...but if i shut it off..wont start for 20 to 40 min??? It doesn't happen in the winter months??? So I changed the fuel pump, filter, relays. I feel like it has something to do with the Ignition Control Module. Would that come up in a code?
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Having a slight issue with my ranger. So I bought this truck out of a junkyard about a month ago, its a 94 4x4 with a 4.0 and a five speed. When I bought the truck the motor was blown so a few weeks ago i replaced it with a 4.0 from an aerostar van I had laying around. Right after I changed it the truck was running good with no issues, until a few days ago going to work the truck started hesitating going up a hill. Now the truck does it all the time, sitting at idle the truck runs smooth as silk, at half throttle it does it the worst but when you mash the peddle to the floor it clears up and runs good.
So far I've replaced the plugs, wires, coil pack, mass air sensor, throttle position sensor, and the fuel pressure regulator to try and fix it but nothing has worked. I've checked the fuel pressure it has 30 at idle and 40 with the vacuum hose pulled off of the regulator, I even taped the gauge to the windshield and went for a ride and there was no drop in pressure when it started acting up. a few other things i have done were plugged all the vacuum ports to rule out a leak, reset the computer and checked for codes. the only code that came up was 522. So I think my next step is going to be buy new oxygen sensors ? But my question is wouldn't the check engine light come on if it was an oxygen sensor ?
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Got a problem with the '94 Ranger. Something keeps draining the battery. For reference, the truck is an XL, manual 4x4, 4.0L, 5-speed. I've been trying to keep driving it so I could try and diagnose the issue. At first, as long as I cranked it every day, it stayed charged up, but now it has gotten worse. It will run down in an hour or two. I know figuring this kind of problem out is tough, but I thought maybe some others of you may have experience in this area that might benefit me.
Based on a gut feeling, my first idea was that there was something going on inside the AC compressor. So, I disconnected the compressor, but that wasn't it. My plan at the moment is to replace the wiring harness between the battery and the starter. The current harness is pieced together (not my doing), and whether it fixes this problem or not, it needs to be done. Another thing I've thought about is the ignition switch. It acts "funny" to me, but it has never really given any trouble.
My son needs to take this vehicle back to college with him in a couple weeks, and I need to get it figured out.
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