Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1994 XLT 2.3L - EVAP System Would Not Hold Pressure - Diagram?
Nov 23, 2016
I have a '94 Ranger XLT with the 4 cylinder 2.3L motor. I recently failed my smog test here in CA because the evap system would not hold pressure. All the emissions were perfect, but it wouldn't hold pressure. I changed the fuel filler neck -- it was cracked -- but there is still a problem somewhere. Is there a diagram that shows where all the hoses are for the evap system? I'm thinking that some other hoses might be cracked since they have been there over 20 years. Is this a good place to start looking or should I be checking something else?
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I've got a '94 Ranger with the 4.0L OHV and an Automatic trans. When I start, hot or cold, it has quick lifter knock for only a fraction of a second. This same knock comes back if I hold the throttle over 3K with NO LOAD on the engine. With any load, I cannot make it knock. With no load, though, it becomes very loud, especially with more RPMs. at idle and slightly above, there is a slight tick that can only be heard with the bonnet up, and then it is only slightly noticeable. I think that this tick is unrelated, but I figured I should share that information. For oil, I run Pennzoil high mileage 10W-30, changed 3000 miles religiously. Purolator filter, PL30001. I can understand the startup knock, but I can't see why it seems to produce the same knock at high RPMs under NO load.
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My oil pressure gauge does not work. I was told that it's most likely the sensor. Where would I find this to change it out?
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I have a 94 ranger 5 speed xlt v6 4.0l 288k miles original engine. in the last month the oil pressure has gradually gone way up. a manual gauge shows 65psi at cold start ( in the 90* out side) after a minute of idle it dropped to 60psi, at 2k rpms the psi was 85+. also the water temp has gotten hotter to the point of almost being unsafe. it appears that in the hotter part of the day the psi goes higher. the oil and filter was changed 1200 miles ago. the cooling system has been update in the last year with a new radiator new thermostat. no cross contamination in the fluids, engine runs good other than gauges on dash showing water and oil getting close to unsafe range and manual gauge showing high pressure.
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Sons 94 ranger 4.0 4x4 Auto 185k got him to work yesterday but would not start to bring him home. No spark, checked with timing light, and no fuel pressure. Searched and read alot of tips from Pawpaw so I tried a few things with no luck. Swapped the relays around, inspected coil pack and plugs. CEL was not on and goes out while cranking. I have a OBD scan tool but this truck must be too old or I need finding plug. Crank sensor maybe?
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My 94 B4000 (4.0L ohv)is acting weird. If I let it sit for more than a day, it won't start. I pop the intake tube off, squirt some gas in the plenum, and away she goes. It starts all day long after that. I can hear the fuel pump running. Is there a possibility there is a fuel pressure regulator leaking down, kinda like a pump losing it's prime? Or am I looking at dropping the tank for a new fuel pump??? It's getting close to winter up here (gonna snow anytime) and I don't need this kind of trouble when it's cold and snowy.
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Just picked up a 2003 Ranger XL 2.3L and notice that I get a little grinding every now and then when shifting into 1st gear. The clutch was replaced 3 years ago according to the PO but had no clue as to how long it's been since the clutch was bled.
I've used my Motive pressure bleeder numerous times in the past on brakes with much success but I've never used it on the clutch. I've used vacuum bleeders as well but it's always a 50/50 success rate with that. The pressure bleeder just works much better for me.
Using a pressure bleeder on a clutch and if so any tips like still needing to tip the master cylinder end up to release any potentially trapped air bubbles?
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I've got an 83 ranger that has proven to be a bit of a head-ache. For starters it's got a persistent oil leak. It's somewhere in the area of the distributor, intake manifold, block region on the backside of the engine, but I can't get back there to see it.
Secondly, the truck only seems to want to start when I give it gas. Even when I use starter fluid, it will only get to an idle if I hold it to the floor when I turn the key. What this might be?
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Where I might be able to find a vacuum hose routing diagram for a 2.9? I have searched high and low but with no luck.
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Fuse #41 keeps blowing...scan tool says o2 sensor heater circuit malfunction. Problem is that when the o2 sensors are unplugged it keeps blowing fuse the second I hit the key. Where this short would be? I can't find a wiring diagram anywhere. ( I'm new to this forum and I'm sure there is a sticky somewhere..
DTC codes: P1451, P0743. P0750. P0760. P0765. P1747. P0135. P1409. P0755. P0155
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I have a 97 ranger 2.3L (manual transmission) and want to change the cluster to one with a tach... I have a 2000 cluster but I would like to compare the actual wiring between the two (1997/2000)... I have looked in the Ranger technical area of these forums and also did a search for "dash cluster wiring" and found no info...
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My dash light fuse blew. I checked with a meter and I have a short to ground somewhere in the wiring for the lights. Everything else seems to be working fine.
Is there a copy of the wiring diagram somewhere?
I have the big ford shop manual but I't doesn't have any diagrams. (might be missing pages, I got it off Ebay and the index is missing T-Z).
I have the Haynes but it doesn't have the diagram for the dash lights.
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Quick back story I bought a 1999 Ford Ranger It is a 4 cyl with an auto trans the guy said it had some trouble with the tranny (major understatement) he also forgot to mention he cut out the CAT. so running a 4 banger off the header.
When you start the truck it rough idles but you have to hold the gas down til it warms up. You can shift into reverse but it labors the motor and the motor will not up the rpms kinda stays at idle and wants to die no matter how hard you accelerate and you can't move up a slight incline.
When you shift into drive you have to rev the motor to 3 grand an it will catch then move slowly forward. no matter how high the revs go. The fluid levels are a tad above the full level and a bit dark for my liking.
Ok, I used an OBDII scan tool from the parts store and it came up with 3 codes P0351, P0352, P0500. From my internet search the first two seem to be coil related which explains why the motor is running like garbage. The last may or may not have to do with what the tranny is doing.
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A buddy of mine has a 2003 Ford Ranger Edge V6 3.0L, he got the code P1450 the other day and asked me to look at it. Got all the info on what it could be but where ex actually is the EVAP canister and CV solenoid located? And what is the problem?
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I'm working on a truck for a friend's mother and all of the tests that I've done point to the fuel pump. However, to make sure the pump is getting voltage past the large connector block under the cab, I would like to do a pin-out test before I pull the tank (or the bed). The pump will not run/prime in KOEO test, the relay is good, as are all of the fuses and the inertia switch.
Looking for a wiring diagram handy for this purpose? I've look all over this forum and searched quite extensively and I haven't found one for this year. Since it isn't my truck, I don't feel like purchasing a manual. I'm working on a 2003 3.0 2WD Auto.
If a wiring diagram isn't available, what colors are the wires going to the fuel pump? That way I can at least test the ground and the positive.
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My son has a 99 ranger and the 4 wheel drive quit working. Traced it to the front hubs not getting vacuum. If I jump around the vacuum solenoid(not sure if that's what it's called), the 4 wheel drive works. Looking for a wiring diagram that shows how this is supposed to work electrically?
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I had a check engine light cane on. I took it for it to get checked and they gave me this code- P0457 EVAP small leak detected. ECM has detected a large leak in the EVAP System during a system monitor test.
The paper said I had a leak in the Evap canister or hose. I took the truck to a mechanic and was told I had Bad oxygen sensors. Can Bad/Dirty oxygen sensors make this error code come up?
Exactly where the oxygen sensors are? I was told they were behind the mufflers but I didn't see any and the diagram I found was not accurate.
2002 Ford Ranger XLT v6 extra cab.
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My 94 ranger, 3.0 v6 began to sputter and jerk about a month ago. It does this when ever give more then lite throttle up until about 3000 rpm. I have replaced plugs, wires, coil and cleaned the air flow sensor. I feel like this has worked a little but the problem is still definitely present. When I hit 3k rpm if feels lie the truck begins to run correctly and almost like it had a power ban much like a dirtbike, but again it's just the truck running correct.. And above 3k rpm it runs great... and every so often the problem will completely disappear for 5 minutes or so, then come right back.
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I have a 94 2wd 4.0 auto 3.08 rear end it has 195,000 im gettin 15 city 18 hwy I used to pull 24+ hwy I changed plugs and wires no change? It has the 4.0 tick but its always had it....
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Working on a friends 94 ranger, 2.3 L with codes 218 and 998. Chiltons manual does not even show this code. Code is for Loss of Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM)/left side. What exactly is this? Can't find anything that explains the IDM.
998 means a hard fault.
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1994 ranger 3.0 .. New: water pump, htr. hoses, radiator, thermostat, pulled & flushed htr. core. (2 year time frame) ....
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